Budhi Gandaki project turning Aarughat Bazar into ghost town

Aarughat is a very ancient market town in Gorkha. Located 42 kilometers north of the Gorkha district headquarters, on the famous Manaslu trekking trail, the residents of Aarughat have evidence that the market was established there 328 years ago.

At one time, Aarughat was a larger commercial center than even the district headquarters itself. However, this bustling market started losing its charm after talks began about building the 1,200-megawatt Budhi Gandaki Hydroelectric Project.

Aarughat has a historical identity as it lies on the main trail that people from Gorkha and western hill districts used to take to reach the capital before the highway opened. Being comparatively larger than other markets on the trail from Pokhara to Kathmandu, Aarughat had a vast reputation for centuries. 

For a long time, it was renowned as the main market for the Tsum-Nubri region, which comprises over half of Gorkha district, as well as Dharche, Bhimsenthan, and Aarughat rural municipalities. The market did not lose its charm even after the Prithvi Highway, which links Pokhara with Kathmandu, was built as it was seated on the trekking trail to the famous Manaslu Circuit Trail.

Aarughat, which developed into a bustling market on the land gifted by the rulers to boatmen who helped people cross the mighty Budhi Gandaki River, has now started to wear a deserted look. When talks of building the mega reservoir project started in the 2010s, people started leaving this bustling place. The 2015 earthquakes, which floored many houses in the market, expedited the migration of people from Aarughat.

Ganesh Kumar Shrestha, a local, said most of the people from Aarughat have moved to Kathmandu. According to Shrestha, the rate of people abandoning Aarughat shot up drastically in the last five years after they received compensation for their land and houses from the project. “The well-off people already had land and houses in Kathmandu and other cities and were gradually abandoning Aarughat. The distribution of compensation expedited migration,” Shrestha added.

According to Krishna Pokharel, a local grocer, the houses of the Aarughat market used to be packed earlier. But now it looks as empty as a sheep-shed after the herd has moved on in winter.

Until a decade ago, Aarughat was a bustling market area. Businesses had occupied almost all the houses in the village. Even those who had houses in Kathmandu and Pokhara had not abandoned Aarughat. “There used to be a crowd of people going to Gorkha, Kathmandu, Pokhara, and towards the highlands every day. There would be a rush of employees and parents taking their children to schools,” Pokharel said. “But when talks of the Budhi Gandaki project started, people gradually started abandoning Aarughat. The 2015 earthquakes further compounded woes for this market.”

Now the old main market street of Aarughat has padlocks on the doors of houses on both sides. Weeds have grown over the yards of some houses, the plaster is peeling off others, and some look dilapidated. With no maintenance, the yards and porticos are overgrown like grazing meadows.

Buddha Prasad Shrestha, chairperson of Ward-9 of Aarughat Rural Municipality, said only about 50 percent of the 400 households are in Aarughat now. “It is said that Newar traders, who came from Kathmandu around 400 years ago, started their businesses in Aarughat, which was inhabited by boatmen. There are records that show this market existed 200 years ago,” Chairperson Shrestha said. “The market started expanding after people from Dharche and the Tsum-Nubri region started settling here after the 1990s.”

According to Chairperson Shrestha, the market is getting deserted because of the 2015 earthquakes and the Budhi Gandaki project. “Only those who can’t go elsewhere remain in Aarughat now,” he said. “The old main market area below the area police office is now largely deserted.”

Nepali migrant workers dying in alarming numbers

A total of 4,035 Nepalis died abroad between the fiscal year 2020-21 and 2022-23 due to various causes. According to data from the Foreign Employment Board, 870 Nepali migrant workers suffered injuries or fell ill during this period. Over the past three years, there has been a concerning rise in the number of deaths and illnesses among Nepali migrant workers. In the fiscal 2021-22, these incidents accounted for 18.5 percent of the migrant workers, followed by 31.95 percent in 2021-22 and 49.54 percent in 2022-23. Despite falling deaths, the cases of mutilations and illness have soared over these years.

The challenges facing Nepali migrant workers include adverse weather conditions in destination countries, increased workload, liquor consumption, conflicts with colleagues, familial pressure, lack of knowledge about local laws, technical errors in handling and operation of machinery, traffic accidents, workplace incidents, burns, suffocation, drowning and illnesses, as highlighted in the report. In the last fiscal year, out of 1,250 fatalities, 27.96 percent occurred in Malaysia, followed by 26.36 percent in Saudi Arabia, 17.98 percent in the United Arab Emirates, 17.32 percent in Qatar, 6.04 percent in Kuwait and 4.43 percent in other nations. It is alarming that these fatalities occurred despite the completion of medical tests before departure.

The report has recommended the government to investigate the root causes of these deaths, conduct awareness programs and provide psychosocial counseling services to Nepali migrant workers.

Surendra Raj Pandey appointed as Gandaki chief minister

Surendra Raj Pandey has been appointed as the chief minister of Gandaki Province.

Province Chief Dilli Raj Bhatta on Wednesday appointed Nepali Congress Parliamentary Party leader Pandey as the chief minister in accordance with Article 168 (3) of the Constitution.

Earlier on Monday, the Supreme Court ruled that the appointment and vote of confidence taken by Chief Minister Khagraj Adhikari was against the Constitution.

The court had ordered the Province Chief to appoint Pandey, a leader of the largest party in the Province Assembly, as the chief minister within 48 hours.

Province Chief Bhatta Bhatta later appointed Pandey as the chief minister.

Former Chief Minister Pandey had filed a writ petition at the apex court demanding that the vote of confidence sought by Adhikari be scrapped and he be appointed as the chief minister.

While seeking a vote of confidence, Adhikari had garnered 30 votes while 27 voted against him in the Province Assembly.

 

 

Save the paddy fields

Traditional paddy species such as Pokhareli Jetho Budo, Pahele, and Zhinua, which grow on the banks of various lakes in Pokhara, are disappearing. As a proud Pokhreli, this is sad news. Our beloved Jetho Budo rice and the Pokhreli Masina, also known as Pahele due to its yellowish hue, are heirloom rice varieties that are a heritage of Pokhara and surrounding areas of western Nepal. Heirloom varieties like Pokhreli Masina are living artifacts, passed down through generations. They aren’t just plants but reservoirs of genetic diversity, preserving the agricultural history of their regions.

According to news reports, varieties such as Rato Anadi, Ekle, Byrni, Black Jhinua, Samudra Finja, Navho, Anga, Bale, Krishnabhog, Jirasari, Phalangkote Paddy, Kathe Gurdi, Tauli, Phalo, Pahle, Lahe Gurdi, Ghaiya, Kalo Jhinuva, Mala, Vimmerfool, Bhatte, Andhere, Kande, Kalo Byrni, and Kalo Anadi have already vanished from Pokhara. Fifty varieties of local rice used to be grown in Kaski. Kathmandu, 30 years ago, was full of paddy fields, but it has now been converted into a concrete jungle. Pokhara is moving in the same direction.

Rice, one of the world’s oldest and most essential crops, has a history as rich as its nutritional value. While it’s impossible to pinpoint exactly when humans first realized the rice plant was a food source, many historians believe that rice was cultivated as far back as 5000 years BC. Archaeologists excavating in India discovered rice grains dating to 4530 BC, marking some of the earliest known instances of rice cultivation.

When my family moved to Malekhu, we discovered another aromatic rice variety called Manobhog. This rice was similar to Pahele, with a fragrant aroma that would fill the entire street during cooking, especially in the mornings as everyone prepared lunch. Later, I learned about Marsi Rice from Rolpa and the prestigious Samundra Phini Rice from Nuwakot, once reserved for the aristocracy and royals of Nepal. This rice was a traditional gift for Rana maharajas, symbolizing its high value.

Cooking rice is a simple process that typically involves one kg of rice and two liters of water. In Nepal, we enjoy rice in various forms such as steamed rice, pulao, kheer, chamre, puwa, bhuja, chiura, latte, chiura dhakani, selroti, and chatamari. Idli, a rice pancake, is also gaining popularity as a healthy breakfast option.

Rice has played a significant role in my professional life as well. During the FIFA World Cup 2022 in Qatar, under my leadership, we cooked around 22,000 kg of rice in 24 hours. Another memorable event was cooking 1,600 kg of raw rice (equivalent to 4,800 kg of cooked rice) for a Formula One event in Las Vegas in 2023. On average, a portion of rice is about 120 grams per person. Based in London, my team and I cook about 800 kg of rice daily for high-end airlines at Heathrow, serving approximately 24,000 portions each day.

Rice’s journey from wild seed to global staple spans thousands of years and numerous continents. It likely began in the Yangtze River basin of China between 13,500 and 8,200 years ago, later spreading throughout Southeast Asia and beyond. Today, rice is the most consumed cereal grain globally, with Asia leading the way. China and India are the top consumers, with rice forming the basis of most meals in these regions.

The diversity of rice is immense, with varieties suited to different tastes and culinary applications. Indica rice, known for its slender grains, is popular in Asia and Africa, while Japonica rice, with its short, sticky grains, is favored for sushi and other dishes in East Asia. Brown rice, with its bran intact, offers additional fiber, vitamins, and minerals compared to white rice, which, when consumed in excess, can contribute to health issues like diabetes.

Rice’s importance extends beyond nutrition. It’s woven into the cultural fabric of many societies, featuring prominently in religious ceremonies and traditional dishes. The cultivation of rice has shaped landscapes and driven agricultural innovations such as advanced irrigation techniques.

Modern research on rice focuses on developing disease-resistant varieties, improving yields, and reducing the environmental impact of rice cultivation. The exploration of alternative starches and future food security scenarios is crucial in a world facing population growth and climate change.

In Nepal, rice was traditionally reserved for special occasions until 1980. Before then, staples like corn, maize, millet, and wheat were more commonly consumed. The introduction of varieties like Chaite Dhan or Ghaiya has diversified the agricultural landscape.

Returning to Pokhara, paddy cultivation has started to decrease due to increasing plotting in areas like Biruwa Phant, Kundahar, and Lekhnath's Sishuwa and Patneri, where sufficient paddy used to be produced. According to a recent news report, Pokhara Metropolitan Municipality’s Agriculture Division has distributed nine thousand kilos of Pokhreli Jetho Budo, Pahele, Ramdhan, Khumal 10, Kalo Jhinuva, Ekle, Rato Anadi, and Byrni rice seeds this year with the aim of protecting and promoting local varieties. But if we don’t save the paddy fields, where are we going to plant these seeds?

Baral is a UK based R&D chef