Pipala: Our special spice

Back when I was a student, I used to explore my mother’s kitchen boxes looking for something, even though I wasn’t sure what exactly. This searching habit would take over when my mother wasn’t around. One day, I opened a case carefully wrapped in cloth, and the wonderful smell immediately hit my nose and mind. It turned out to be Garam Masala. In those days, these spices were rare, but my father, who was an Indian Gurkha Soldier, probably brought them home.

The small container was filled with cinnamon, bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, mace (javitri), peppercorns, black cardamom (alachi), nutmeg (jayphal), and lots of Pipala – the Piper Longum. I never asked why there was more Pipala than other spices. Many years later, I realized that it was our own product and was freely available near the river stream next to our home. This spice is what makes our Garam Masala different from others in the Indian Subcontinent. We can compare Pipala to Timur (Sichuan pepper), which helps it stand out and represent Nepali cuisine in the culinary world.

Embarking on a journey through history, culture, and delicious flavors, Long Pepper, or Pipala, emerges as a hero among spices, tracing its roots to the heart of our culture. The cone-shaped pepper is like a hidden gem, connecting tales from ancient Ayurvedic traditions to Mediterranean opulence and medieval European kitchens.

Long pepper, known for its medicinal benefits in Ayurveda, has made a strong comeback in modern kitchens. This spice goes beyond just cooking; ancient texts highlight its role in improving health, desire, and vitality. From Ayurvedic remedies to aiding sleep and acting as a stimulant, long pepper adds an interesting layer to its culinary and medicinal significance.

Moving westward, Romans loved long pepper even more than black pepper. In ancient Rome, it was prestigious, commanding double the price of black pepper. The complexities of distinguishing between these peppers intrigued scholars like Pliny, emphasizing the mystery surrounding this spice. Throughout the medieval era, long pepper remained popular, with people even using it as currency and esteemed chefs listing it as an essential spice.

However, trade winds changed during the 15th and 16th centuries, favoring the accessibility of black pepper through sea routes. This flooded European markets and cast a shadow over long pepper. Forgotten for a while, long pepper recently reemerged.

In the modern culinary scene, Long Pepper is making a comeback, captivating chefs and spice enthusiasts alike. Dubbed the ‘forgotten spice,’ the unique flavor, reminiscent of Garam Masala, adds a special touch to dishes. With its inch-long cone structure and a blend of heat, musk, and sweetness, Long Pepper offers a sensory journey similar to an accordion playing out exotic flavors.

Nepal’s hilly and subtropical regions are where long pepper is cultivated. Flourishing in well-drained soils and thriving in slightly warm climates, this perennial climber often finds support in trees or other structures. The cultivation process, mainly organic, utilizes natural soil fertility, occasionally supplemented by cow dung as fertilizer. Harvesting long pepper spikes, the flowering parts of the plant, happens when they retain their green, pungent essence. Sun-drying these spikes until they achieve a distinctive grayish hue is crucial to the process.

The yield of long pepper in Nepal increases over time, with a substantial harvest following the plant’s third year. To maintain productivity, farmers periodically replace older vines. The economic and medicinal importance of long pepper in Nepal is significant. Serving as a financial safety net, its ability to be stored for extended periods post-drying allows farmers to sell it gradually, supplementing their income as needed. In traditional medicine, the roots and thicker stem parts are essential components in Ayurvedic and traditional healing systems.

In Nepali cuisine, long pepper fruits add a pungent flavor to dishes and contribute to pickles, preserves, and the revered Nepali Garam Masala. Medicinally, this spice is a go-to remedy for respiratory ailments such as cough, bronchitis, and asthma. Its peppery taste induces salivation and oral numbness, also serving as a counter-irritant and analgesic for muscular pains and inflammation.

Moreover, long pepper has diverse medicinal applications in Nepal, acting as a sedative, general tonic, hematinic, cholagogue, emmenagogue, anthelmintic, and addressing maladies like dysentery and leprosy.

To wrap it up, I want to share a quote from someone who commented anonymously on an article about Pipala: “I realized that we Nepali are like Kasturi (Deer musk), running around in search of prosperity. Even though valuable products like Pipala are abundant in the hills of Nepal, we are still facing challenges globally. I was hoping this article would guide me on how to connect Pipala to the market.” I completely agree with this line of thought. The issue is connecting the market to the people who harvest Pipala.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef