Jumla to Rara: The forgotten trail
Not long ago, people had to walk for days and spend nights in assorted places to reach Rara Lake, tucked away in the mid-western region of Nepal. But with the construction of roads, the number of people treading through the path had significantly gone down and it took a toll on people who earned their livelihood from the hotels, homestays and shops they ran in the area. By degrees, people started quitting their businesses and switched to another profession.
Nestled at an altitude of 2,990 meters and spanning 10.8 square kilometers across Jumla and Mugu districts, Rara Lake is Nepal’s deepest freshwater lake.

Popular for its unruffled and splendid nature, the clean and pristine blue waters never fail to mesmerize visitors.
Turning the pages of history, Rara Lake was known as “Rara Daha” for years. Once, when late king Mahendra was traveling around the country on a helicopter, he happened to reach the basin. The enchanting beauty of the waterbody lured King Mahendra, impelling him to describe the lake as ‘Swarga ki Apsara”. He later named the lake as Rara Lake.
On April 24, 2015, my friends and I planned a trip to Rara Lake. But the very next day, Nepal was struck by a devastating 7.8 magnitude earthquake, claiming nearly 9,000 lives, injuring 22,000, and causing widespread destruction.
Along with the earthquake, our plan to visit the largest and deepest freshwater lake surrounded by magnificent conifer forests was also disrupted by the unforeseen event.
They say when you truly desire something, the universe conspires to make it happen. A decade later, some friends planned a trek to Rara via Jumla, following an old route to explore the rich cultural heritage of Nepal’s western hills. I couldn’t resist joining—this was my chance to finally witness the legendary beauty of Rara Lake which I had been hearing the bewildering tales.
Gulping down the hearty breakfast, I headed to Gongabu Bus Park where other friends were waiting for me.

Our adventure began at 7 am, growing more thrilling with every turn—until we hit a massive traffic jam in Gaindakot, Nawalparasi. Taking a detour via the Kaligandaki corridor added an extra 100 km, but it spared us a 24-hour gridlock.
The Karnali Highway, linking Surkhet and Jumla, was an adrenaline-pumping experience—narrow, rugged, and carved through rocky cliffs. Watching the Karnali River rush beneath Kakilot’s steep drops was both terrifying and exhilarating. As we entered Jumla, the roads improved, and the scenery transformed.
Driving along the Tila River at sunset, with apple orchards and golden paddy fields stretching beside us, felt like a dream. Soon, we reached Khalanga, Jumla’s district headquarters, where we were warmly welcomed by Hari Bahadur Rokaya, an international marathon runner and Guinness World Record holder. Despite his global fame, he remains underappreciated in Nepal. He even arranged two of his students as our guides.
Before starting our trek, the next morning, we explored Khalanga, offering prayers at Chandan Nath Baba and Bhairabnath Temple for a safe journey.

The trail wound past glistening streams, stone houses nestled among apple farms, and cherry blossoms in full bloom—like a scene from a postcard.
After a three-hour uphill hike, we reached Chehre for a local breakfast, then continued to Danfe Lek (3,800 meters), a challenging climb due to the steep ascent and altitude.
From Danfe Lek, the view of Khalanga Valley and Jumla was surreal—snow-dusted peaks, rhododendron and pine forests, and vast meadows stretched before us.

Reaching Khali, I was spellbound: endless grasslands, crystal-clear streams, grazing sheep, and snow-capped mountains made me feel like I’d stepped into a fairy tale. The sheer beauty brought tears to my eyes—yet it saddened me to think how such pristine landscapes are often exploited for short-term gain.
After lunch, we trekked until dusk, staying overnight in Nyaurigad, a quaint hamlet by the Tila River.
Over dinner, we learned that the late Prince Dipendra and Princess Shruti had once stayed there during a hunting trip.

The next morning, we descended through villages like Bumro and Kabra, passing lush rhododendron forests and immersing ourselves in local culture. Breakfast in Chautha and lunch in Bhubhule (the gateway to Mugu and Rara National Park) fueled us for the day’s toughest challenge: crossing Ghuchi Lek. We spent the night by the Jyari River, where the lodging was surprisingly better than the previous stop.
On the third day, we finally reached Rara Lake via Jyrai Village and Salleri. Its crystal-clear waters, vibrant fish, and emerald hills left me speechless—no childhood tales had done it justice. We soaked in the views, capturing photos and videos, while a question nagged at me: Why hasn’t Nepal promoted this paradise to the world?
A boat ride across the lake offered fleeting glimpses of snow-capped peaks through the fog. Later, we rode horses to Murma Top Eco Resort, hoping for clearer skies the next day. But luck wasn’t on our side—rain loomed overhead. “On a clear day, you can see Humla, Jumla, Bajura, Badimalika, Dolpa, even China,” our guide said wistfully.

Undeterred, we pressed on toward Sinja Valley, tackling the trek’s toughest stretch: Chuchhemara Lek (4,039 meters), the highest point in Rara National Park. The steep climb felt effortless amid the breathtaking scenery—century-old deodar trees, dark pink rhododendrons, secluded lakes, and sprawling meadows.
A local mentioned this trail was once favored by German and French trekkers but has faded into obscurity due to the Maoist insurgency and new roads bypassing it.
Reaching Chuchhemara’s jagged peaks surpassed all expectations. Exhausted, drenched, but exhilarated, we finally arrived in Sinja Valley—the birthplace of the Nepali language and the national dress, Daura Suruwal.

The final leg of our journey took us from Sinja back to Khalanga. The turquoise Hima River, apple orchards, thatched-roof homes, and rhododendron forests evoked comparisons to Kashmir—earning Jumla its nickname, “Nepal’s Kashmir.” My dream of visiting Kashmir felt fulfilled here. As dusk fell at Jaljala Pass (3,800 meters), we faced our longest, toughest day, reaching the hotel by 10 p.m.

With hearts full of memories and promises to return, we boarded the bus to Kathmandu at 5 a.m., arriving after a grueling 30-hour drive.
This trek was more than a journey—it was a pilgrimage through Nepal’s natural splendor, cultural roots, and forgotten history. Sadly, as roads expand, this majestic trail risks being lost to time.













Photos: Achitra Thieng
Check your blood pressure: Protect your heart
High blood pressure, or hypertension, is often called the ‘silent killer’ because it usually shows no symptoms until it causes serious health problems. Yet, it remains one of the most common conditions affecting people worldwide. Blood pressure refers to the force of blood pushing against the walls of your arteries as the heart pumps. When the pressure stays high, it’s known as hypertension. ApEx spoke to three cardiologists to understand what can be done to prevent high blood pressure and its consequences.
Dr Amrish Thapa, 41
Blood pressure is the force exerted by circulating blood against the walls of the body’s arteries, the major blood vessels responsible for carrying blood throughout the body. It’s measured using two numbers: systolic pressure, which indicates the pressure when the heart beats, and diastolic pressure, which reflects the pressure when the heart rests between beats. Hypertension, or high blood pressure, is a condition in which the pressure in the arteries remains consistently elevated. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), a person is considered hypertensive when their blood pressure consistently measures at or above 140/90 mmHg. Monitoring and managing hypertension is essential, especially for individuals over 40 or those with risk factors. Regular blood pressure checks, routine health check-ups, and awareness of possible symptoms—such as headaches, dizziness, blurred vision, chest pain, or nosebleeds—are crucial. For those diagnosed with hypertension, it’s important to avoid smoking and alcohol, reduce salt intake, lose excess weight, avoid fatty and oily foods, cut down on red meat and dairy, and increase the intake of green vegetables, salads, and fruits. Identifying any secondary causes—such as diabetic kidney disease or vascular disorders—with the help of a doctor is also vital.
Dr Sushovit Dhoj Karki, 31
Hypertension forces the heart and blood vessels to work harder, raising the risk of serious health issues such as heart disease, stroke, and kidney disease. Because hypertension often presents no noticeable symptoms, regular monitoring is essential. This includes checking blood pressure at home using a digital monitor or at a clinic, and attending routine medical check-ups. Awareness of risk factors is also important—being overweight, consuming too much salt and processed food, leading a sedentary lifestyle, having a family history of high blood pressure, experiencing chronic stress, poor sleep habits, smoking, and excessive alcohol consumption all contribute to the development of hypertension. In cases where blood pressure is dangerously high, symptoms like headaches, blurred vision, chest pain, and dizziness may occur.
Preventing and managing hypertension requires lifestyle adjustments. A heart-healthy diet involves reducing salt, processed foods, and alcohol while increasing intake of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and lean proteins such as fish, chicken, and legumes. Limiting sugar, red meat, fried foods, and canned or fast foods is also beneficial. Regular physical activity—at least 30 minutes a day, five days a week—is recommended, along with maintaining a healthy body weight. Managing stress through meditation, deep breathing, yoga, and ensuring seven to eight hours of quality sleep each night are key to keeping blood pressure under control. It’s also crucial to avoid over-the-counter medications that can raise blood pressure, such as certain painkillers (like NSAIDs) and decongestants, and to consult your doctor before starting any new medication or supplement.
Dr Preshita Banskota, 30
Blood pressure is a measurable, quantitative indicator of health, and the good news is that it can be checked easily. You can monitor it at home using a digital blood pressure monitor, or have it checked at clinics, hospitals, or pharmacies. If you are getting high readings, it is recommended to monitor your blood pressure twice a day—once in the morning and once in the evening—for seven to 10 days. This provides a more accurate average, as blood pressure can fluctuate throughout the day. Always make sure to sit calmly and rest for at least five to 10 minutes before checking your blood pressure, and avoid measuring it immediately after walking or physical exertion.
Preventing high blood pressure is possible with simple lifestyle changes. Eat less salt, stay active, follow a healthy diet, and avoid smoking and excess alcohol. Regularly monitor your blood pressure and track it using a mobile app or journal. People with high blood pressure should know that it is usually manageable with consistent lifestyle changes and, when necessary, medication. Regular check-ups are important to monitor progress, adjust medications, and assess the risk of complications like heart disease, stroke, or kidney problems. If prescribed, medication should be taken as directed and not discontinued without consulting a doctor.
Five series to binge watch
The monsoon is here and with it we have the perfect reason to curl up on the couch with a hot beverage and a fun snack and binge watch a series that will blow our minds. At least, that is what I’m doing. I find it immensely satisfying to watch something at the end of the day. It just gives you something to look forward to and you also have a story in your head for times when you need a distraction.
Available on Amazon Prime, the series I’m recommending today are all worth your time. I guarantee you will not be able to watch just a single episode and turn off the TV and go to bed. Mostly thrillers with one comedy thrown in the mix, the five series that I have listed here will have you glued to your seat.
Dupahiya
Featuring the fabulous actor Gajraj Rao widely known for his role in the Neena Gupta starrer ‘Badhai Ho’, Dupahiya is a comedy and satire on the dowry system that is still prevalent in many places across India and Nepal. When the groom’s family asks for a fancy motorbike as dowry, the girl’s family scrambles to get one. But the bike gets stolen and this puts the villagers in a mad frenzy to find it, especially since the village has been crime free for 25 years and all set to be rewarded for it. The characters are well fleshed out and the plot is gripping and fun. It has both light moments as well as emotional scenes. It’s a great mix. You will enjoy this light-hearted series that raises an important issue.
Reacher
Based on Lee Child’s thriller novels, Reacher follows retired military officer Jack Reacher as he gets arrested for a murder he did not commit. He finds himself in the midst of a deadly conspiracy and also on a quest for revenge. The series has an eight out of ten rating on IMDb and is filled with suspense right from the start. Starring Alan Ritchson as Jack Reacher, the series has three seasons with eight episodes each. The third season came out in 2025. The first season is based on the book ‘Killing Floor’ and premiered in 2022. Reacher is an intriguing character. He is smart and courageous and his dialogues and body language make him even more compelling. You will enjoy getting to know him but you will never be able to predict what he does next and that is where all the fun lies.
The Continental
This limited series has just three episodes but each episode is over an hour long so it’s almost like watching a movie. Spoiler alert: the stage is already set for a second season as the ending shows the possibility of the story becoming even more intense. The Continental is a chain of hotels around the world that is a neutral ground for members of the underworld. Starring Mel Gibson, this action-crime series follows Winston Scott, played by Colin Woodell, as he puts together a team to take over the infamous hotel after his brother is killed in a conspiracy. There’s a lot of drama, action, witty dialogues, and stunning cinematography in this series that can get a bit too violent at times. There is an old world charm to The Continental that makes it different from the rest of the series on this list.
Suzhal: The Vortex
This is a Tamil series that has two seasons. My issue with series that are dubbed in Hindi or English from another language is that the dialogues feel a little out of sync. I recently watched a Tamil series dubbed in Hindi that had a really good plot but the dialogues of the main character infuriated me, so much so that I couldn’t stand watching the actor on screen. I was skeptical about Suzhal: The Vortex as well since it’s also a Tamil series dubbed in Hindi but it had an 8.1 rating on IMDb and as my friends like to say I’m an IMDb snob. If there’s something that is highly rated on it, I have to watch it. I’m glad I decided to watch the series as it’s engaging and tense. Set against the backdrop of a unique festival, the viewers are drawn into the eye of the storm where myths and faith rule over logic and humanity. The second season starts where the first left off but you don’t have to watch the first to watch the second. I watched both back to back and can’t decide which one I loved more.
Alex Cross
Alex Cross is a crime, mystery, thriller series written by bestselling author James Patterson. The protagonist is Alex Cross, an African-American police officer who is also a single father. In the Amazon Prime series, Cross, along with his partner, comes across a sadistic serial killer who is targeting people who look like serial killers. Cross is also dealing with his own demons and trying to find his wife’s killer while rushing against time to save the serial killer’s latest victim who he believes is still alive. If you have read Patterson’s books or read thrillers regularly, the plot might be a little predictable but it’s still gripping and fun while it lasts. The characters are relatable, each battling their personal problems and biases. There’s a lot of family dynamics at play too and that makes for a nice little side story. All in all, Alex Cross is a series you might want to binge watch this weekend when you don’t want to do much else.
The art of self-care
We exist in relation to others—as sons, husbands, brothers, daughters, wives, and sisters. We work to take care of our families. Our days are shaped by what our family life demands from us. In this hustle and bustle, looking after our own well-being often takes a backseat. This leads to burnout and has many other repercussions in the long run.
Self-care shouldn’t be an option. It should be a conscious act that is non-negotiable. Taking care of yourself and your mental health will make you better able to take care of others as a happier person is always able to be kind and give more.
So make no excuses and take out some time to indulge in some pampering. There are many little things that you can do to feel better physically and mentally. Here we bring to you some random acts of self-care that are simple and easy to follow even when you are hard pressed on time.
Spend time in nature
Studies have shown that early morning sun exposure not only sets your body’s biological clock but also keeps your vitamin D levels in check and boosts mood. Make sure you get your morning dose of sunlight as soon as you wake up. Go for a short walk or read the morning papers in the garden while soaking up the sun. If your mornings are rushed, try getting up 15 minutes earlier. Alternatively, try to spend some time outdoors whenever you can. It could be an evening stroll with your mother, a short hike with your friends during the weekend, or some gardening activity by yourself. Nature has calming effects and can soothe a tired mind while giving you some time to reflect on things as well.
Go on a solo date
We’re always surrounded by people, whether it be at work or at home. Rarely do we get the chance to be by ourselves. Most of us have become so habituated of being with people that we think we won’t enjoy our own company, but you’d be surprised. Spending time alone can be a wonderful way to reconnect with yourself and figure out just what you want. Try going on a solo date. It could be to get a cup of coffee at your favorite coffee shop, or for brunch, or just a stroll around the mall by yourself. Aim to spend at least a couple of hours. This time by yourself can be extremely relaxing and recharging. It’s necessary to spend time by yourself to cut out all the noise around you and give yourself the space and the luxury to think. You might think of new ideas and come up with innovative solutions to problems by being alone and allowing your mind to wander.
Indulge in a spa session
A nice, healing spa session is just what your body and mind need after a long work week. This is a great couples’ activity as well. Book a spa session for you and your partner. There are many spas in town that offer different packages to suit your needs. You can choose from a wide range of services that include specialized Ayurvedic massages to deep tissue treatments. You can also choose to make it a whole day affair by coupling a salon session along with a massage hour. Get a manicure, pedicure, and a hair treatment along with the massage. Trust us, you will feel like a new person after an invigorating therapy session. If you can’t manage a weekly spa session because of your hectic schedule, try to book yourself one at least once every two weeks.
Buy yourself something nice
We generally buy things that we need or those that serve a practical purpose. But when was the last time you bought something that made you happy? For instance, a bunch of flowers, a pretty scarf, or a lavender scented candle. Little things can bring joy but we often fail to see it, considering them to be a waste of money. A really great self-care ritual is to buy yourself something nice every once in a while. It doesn’t have to serve a practical purpose, and can be something as silly as a Disney character keychain. The point is it has to bring a smile to your face. We recommend browsing through the farmer’s markets as there are usually many stalls that sell cute items ranging from jewelry and art to decor and crafts. Practice giving gifts to yourself and not just to others. It can change the way you feel about yourself.
Change things up
While a routine life is great for discipline, it can also bore you in the long run. So consider changing things up every once in a while. Take a midweek break and have a leisurely lunch with your friends. Plan an impromptu date with your partner. Try a new cuisine instead of ordering in from your regular restaurant. Self-care can come in the form of little acts of love that you extend to yourself. Changing your routine and doing little things that make you happy is one of the easiest ways of showing love to yourself. A simple change can make a whole lot of difference in elevating your mood and making you feel better about yourself.



