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If you have been to Naxal chowk, which is also known as Bhagawati Bahal, you must have seen a pagoda-style temple situated right at the four-way junction.

This is the temple of Goddess Naxal Bhagawati, one of the four Bhagawati sisters. The three other sisters are Shova Bhagawati (whose temple is located at Chamati, bank of Bishnumati river), Nala Bhagawati (Nala Village, Kavre), and Palanchowk Bhagawati (Panchkhal, Kavre). All these temples house an idol of Goddess Bhagawati.

The history of these temples can be traced back to the fifth century AD and the reign of Lichchhavis. According to a legend, Mandev, a famous Lichchhavi ruler, decided to meditate at a monastery in Sankhu, leaving the responsibility of administration to his mother Nawa Sagar. The religious mother found it to be an opportune moment to establish the four Bhagawatis.

Apparently, Nawa Sagar got the craftsmen to first build Palanchowk Bhagawati with their right hands. Then, so that they could not replicate its design, she had their right hands chopped off. The artists then built Nala Bhagawati with their left hands. After this, their left hands were cut off too, and they then built Naxal Bhagawati with their right legs and, finally, when even their right legs were severed from their bodies, they built the Shova Bhagawati with their left legs.

Since its inauguration a Karmacharya priest has always presided over the Naxal Bhagawati. Following the demise nine years ago of their father, also a former priest, 40-year-old Dinesh Karmacharya has been working there as a priest alongside his brother Rabindra.

Unlike the vedic rites performed at most other temples, the pooja performed by Karmacharyas at Naxal Bhagawati follows the tantric method of worship. This method of praying and appeasing Goddess Bhagawati has been passed down generations in the Karmacharya family since the fifth century.

Devotees throng to Naxal Bhagawati during the Navaratri period of the annual Dashain festival. According to Hindu scriptures, Goddess Bhagawati came to be known as Goddess Durga after defeating demons in a fierce battle. “During Navaratri, which marks the victory of the Goddess Durga over demons, a special pooja is performed here in the presence of big crowds,” says Karmacharya. 

Similarly, Ghode Jatra and Chaite Dashain are other two popular occasions when devotees visit Naxal Bhagawati temple.

Kunti Subedi, 45, who has been taking care of the temple for past 17 years, informs that in normal course the temple is more crowded on Saturdays. But the tantric pooja is performed every day, and devotees sacrifice different animals to please the goddess and fulfil their wishes.

It is also believed that doing pooja and worship at Naxal Bhagawati protects you from bad spirits.

The temple premises also houses the Shree Naxal Bhagawati Bhajan Mandal, a musical group. Established in 1991, the group conducts bhajans on special occasions.

Also inside the same premises are a small temple of Lord Shiva, another one of Radha Krishna, and a third one built with idols brought from Rajasthan, India.

According to Dinesh Karmacharaya, the priest, the number of devotees at the temple has dwindled in recent times.

Prakash Pokharel, 54, a Baluwatar resident, has been regularly visiting the temple on his way to office, for over 20 years. He says worshipping Goddess Bhagawati keeps him on the right track. Pokharel says he has also noticed the number of devotees at the temple shrinking. “Two decades ago, people had strong religious beliefs but now their faith is not as strong which is perhaps why fewer people visit this place now,” he says.  

Sabina Shrestha, 24, currently lives in Basundhara, Kathmandu, and visits the temple whenever she passes Naxal. Shrestha says although she is relatively young religious faith is still important for her.

Taking care of this religious and cultural site is the Naxal Bhagawati Samudayik Sadan, a 13-member committee appointed every three years. Says Ashok Rajkarnikar, its president, the group's main responsibility is to renovate and repair what is damaged inside temple premises and to maintain overall cleanliness.

But how does the committee put together the needed expenses? “We rent out two shutters and a hall inside temple premises for different occasions and ceremonies,” replies Rajkarnikar. “The collected funds are used for temple preservation and other expenses.”

The 2015 earthquakes had slightly damaged the temple. But it has now been fully renovated and strengthened.

The temple opens at 6 am and closes at 7 pm. It is also closed from 2-5 pm.

Texting or talking?

Talking. There’s so much you can tell with the voice modulations. 

What is one word with which you would describe your career?

Passion. My passion for music was so incredibly strong, I turned it into a career. 

If you could change your name, what would it be?

It'd be something incredibly cool, like a spy name. I could tell you, but I’d have to kill you! 

What is the meanest thing you’ve ever said to someone?

I’ve often been mean and stupid and hurtful. And I’d like to say sorry to those I hurt.

What compliment do people give you the most?

People tell me I have a lot of energy. I love it! 

If you could go back in time to change one thing, what would it be?

Our choices make us who we are. You make a choice and stick by it. 

If you could share a meal with any four individuals, living or dead, who would they be?

John Mayer, Albert Einstein, Michelle Obama, and my mom. 

Knowing what you do now, what advice would you give your 18-year-old self?

You're going to make mistakes and you’re going to come out of it stronger. 

What is better: being organized or attention to details?

Attention to details is better as it shows conviction. 

If you didn’t have to sleep, what would you do with the extra time?

I would just keep making music and read a thousand books! 

The history of pubs can be traced back to first-century Roman taverns in Britain. The modern pub concept, meanwhile, took off in early 19^th century among the countries and regions under the British influence—even as London became the global pub center. So perhaps it’s fitting that Kathmandu too should have a pub dedicated to the famous city in the form of London Pub at Durbarmarg. “We wanted to establish a proper pub culture in Nepal,” says Bhuwan Shrestha, the pub’s operation manager, when asked of the rationale behind opening London Pub back in November 2019.

When you visit the pub, you are at once struck by the influence of British pop culture on it: Walls filled with jerseys of English football clubs; a screen running videos featuring different parts of London; British rock music. (The pub has daily live music after 2 pm.)

The pub is not the only thing that catches your eye when you’re inside the 1D Durbarmarg premises. London Pub owners have also opened the Japanese-themed Matsuri Tokyo next door. “This is a specialty Japanese restaurant where the food is categorized based on different Japanese festivals,” adds Shrestha. There is also a stall dedicated exclusively to ramen noodles. You get authentic Japanese food at Matsuri Tokyo, with all ingredients brought from Japan, Shrestha informs. Even the guests are welcomed in Japanese.

The combined establishment was closed during the seven months of the lockdown and even now, not all its clientele is back. Around 120 visitors used to come every day before the lockdown. Now, it has around 70 visitors a day, with the number climbing to 200+ during weekends.

Shrestha informs of another themed outlet that is being planned but the details of which the management is unwilling to divulge. They will select another global city, pick a unique specialty or culture from there and introduce it here.

Phone

01-4220256

Opening hours

London Pub: 1:00 am-12:00 am

Matsuri Tokyo: 10 am-10 pm

When you sit down for a conversation with her, she gives the vibe of a researcher who can’t wait to explain her findings—which she knows will make an impact on the audience. To be fair, she is no less of a researcher herself. At only 23, guitarist Adhishree Dhungana has researched almost every genre of music. Humble despite skills that would make any other professional musician conscious of their capabilities, Dhungana still sees herself as a student.

Music made its way into Dhungana’s life early, at the age of seven. “Nobody in my family is a musician but my uncle was a music enthusiast who could play the madal, flute, harmonium and a bit of guitar,” Dhungana says. “He inspired me to play”. The guitar was not her first instrument of choice though. She started with madal and then wanted to learn to play the drums. “But at that point in time, a drum-set was a huge investment and no one would make that investment for me. So I picked up a guitar which was just lying there at home,” she says.

Her journey with the guitar then took her into an exploration of the vast realm of music, and she feels she still has much to explore. “I want to formally study music now,” Dhungana, a self-taught guitarist, says. “I want to go abroad to study composition and performance.” Recalling the time she began learning music, she cites her older sister's iPod as her main music source. She found John Scofield and John Mayer interesting, among other musicians on the playlist, and began emulating them.

“Then my seniors also helped me a lot. Growing up and trying to learn guitar, I didn't even know who Jimi Hendrix was,” Dhungana says. “My seniors were like—Oh you don’t know Jimi Hendrix?—and gave me his music.” She continued learning from her seniors and peers and never had to take formal lessons to build her mastery.

As for family, as in the case of most aspiring musicians in the country, they were not very supportive in the beginning. There was this skepticism about her making a career in music, and that had little to do with her gender, she says. Her problem was, her family did not take her seriously when she told them she wanted to be a professional musician. It took time but things changed when she started earning from her music, and now her family has finally come around to supporting her career decision.

“Still, there were people who kept reminding me that this is just a hobby and not something I would want to study or commit to as a profession. Also, as I’m a girl, I shouldn’t be doing so many late nights,” she says, recalling the times when she played in Thamel as a teenager and was not taken seriously, even by some of her colleagues.

With a quiet, calm and collected personality, she did not do much to change people’s opinions. Then she started finding regular work as a guitarist, despite all the odds, and started making her own music too. Dhungana has now worked as a session guitarist in studios, mostly for jingles, and played with various musicians including the famous Bartika Eam Rai and the Bangalore-based folk rock band Gauley Bhai.

Inspired by international artists like Charlie Hunter, Spanky Alford and Emily Remler, to name a few, Dhungana also names US-based Nepali musician Diwash Gurung and guitarist Binayak Shah as her inspirations. Influenced by what she learns from them, Dhungana has in her recordings managed to create a unique sound for herself, which is audibly distinguishable.

The pandemic did alter her plans, but Dhungana admits she is privileged enough not have to depend on live shows for her living. “Still, it is something that I really miss. And I’d love to play live more for my sanity than for the money,” she says. At present, besides being involved in the folk fusion group Baaja, Dhungana is also working with a set of musicians to give shape to her original compositions. “We do not even have a name for it yet. We’re just testing the waters,” Dhungana says. “Hopefully we’ll get to play a few shows soon. This year I’m also looking forward to doing some solo shows with my own compositions.”