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Do you sometimes wonder where our national cricket stars like Paras Khadka, Subhash Khakurel, Sharad Veswakar and Sarita Magar first learned the tricks of the trade? It was at the Baluwatar Cricket Club and Training Center, Nepal’s oldest cricket club that was established in 1973.

 With a legacy of grooming cricketers for the past 46 years, the club has contributed a lot for the development of Nepali cricket, producing over 2,000 cricketers who have gone on to play at various regional, national and international tournaments.

 The Ranas are believed to have introduced cricket in Nepal as their “exclusive luxury entertainment” in the 1920s. Some say it was Rana Prime Minister Padma Shumsher who introduced cricket in Nepal, while others argue it was rather Lt. General Madan Shumsher, one of the sons of Rana Prime Minister Chandra Shumsher. Historian Daniel Wright believes the Ranas introduced the “gentleman’s game” as an indulgence, after witnessing the sport during their stays in British India and England. It would be another two decades before the sport was open for the general public.

 Upendra Bhattarai, 68, the club head and founder, says Ranas used to play cricket at secluded locations, hidden from the public. “My grandpa used to say that the Ranas used to have private tournaments, among teams comprised exclusively of members of the Rana family.”

 In order to spread the appeal of the game, Bhattarai established the Baluwatar Cricket Club in 1973 with his personal investment at the prompting of his cricket-loving friends. In the initial days it was difficult to finance the club. It was almost shut down soon after its establishment due to the dearth of training infrastructure, budget and coaches. Even as recently as 1991, the club had to pull out of a national level tournament in Dhanagadhi as they were unable to pay the Rs 700 in registration fee.

The club has groomed star players such as Nepal national cricket team skipper Paras Khadka

 “Currently, the club finances itself through the personal investment of its founder, charity, donations, and earning from the founder’s petrol pumps,” says Rikesh Lama, a coach at the club. “Compared to our early days, we have been able to provide many more opportunities and resources to our students,” adds Lama.

 “During the 1970s and 80s, the club had a hard time training cricketers as there was a shortage of experienced coaches,” says Bhattarai, the founder. Early batches of students basically groomed themselves and grasped the basics through trial-and-error. Things changed dramatically when the ICC, the global cricket governing body, formally recognized the club in 1996. Good coaches and finances followed in its wake.

 “The ICC recognition came after we did well in a local tournament, the erstwhile Rameswar Bhattarai Cup,” says the club founder. “The ICC had given us international recognition by bypassing other applicants from Sweden, Thailand and France.” And in 2001 the club was finally able to establish itself as an international-standard training center.

 In its storied history, the club has groomed national players such as Nepal national cricket team skipper Paras Khadka, Subhash Khakurel, Sharad Veswakar and Prithu Baskota. Nepal’s Under-19 Captain Rohit Paudel is also its product. National level women cricketer Sarita Magar was groomed at the club too.

 The club is currently training 100 students (35 girls and 65 boys) at its facility in Baluwatar with the help of two coaches: Surendra Lama and Rikesh Lama.

 “The Baluwatar Cricket Club has accumulated not just trophies and accolades, but also won the hearts of cricket enthusiasts around the country,” says coach Rikesh Lama.

 Bhattarai is also incredibly proud of what he and his club have been able to achieve so far. A former deputy head of the Cricket Association of Nepal, the sport governing body in the country, he sees great future for the club and for national cricket provided there is a “clear separation between politics and cricket”.

Nestled up a short driveway in busy Gairidhara, Noya (meaning “beauty of god” in Hebrew), is a peaceful 11-room boutique hotel set in its own courtyard. Being an original Rana house, it seems fitting that, since Rana architecture was heavily influenced by British neoclassical traditions, Noya serves traditional English afternoon tea.

I have personally been doing the rounds of places that provide afternoon tea. A short round, as no one in Kathmandu does this! The Hyatt used to provide afternoon tea in their lobby lounge but according to the head waiter, they stopped several years ago. Fairfield by Marriott periodically provides an afternoon tea menu, but with very Indian inspired eats. As distant from an English afternoon tea as, well, India is from England.  

Naturally it’s possible to buy excellent cakes and tea/ coffee in many restaurants in town. But there is something luxurious about having sandwiches, cakes and scones presented as a three-in-one meal, in a stunning setting. So Noya Hotel is filling a much needed gap in the market. And this might be the perfect thing to do over the Easter weekend!

Recently I talked to Santosh Bahadur Shah, the owner of Noya, to ask how his idea of creating afternoon tea in Kathmandu came about. “As a London based commodities trader, my passion for tea and coffee led me to form a UK company trading in tea and coffee,” explains Shah. Growing up in London was the main reason for him becoming involved in the afternoon tea culture—think Fortnum and Mason, and Kensington Gardens Hotel, the pinnacles of afternoon tea. “Travelling around Europe promoting Nepali tea and coffee, I also had the chance to sample a lot of afternoon teas in different countries. You could say I am a connoisseur not only of fine teas, but also of afternoon tea culture,” laughs Shah. 

Returning to Nepal to open Noya Hotel was the perfect opportunity to pass on his passion and fascination for tea to both those living in Kathmandu and visiting tourists. I asked if he thought Kathmandu was ready for an afternoon tea culture. “Tea growing was established in Nepal long before coffee was introduced and if you think about it, every Nepali family drinks tea in the morning and afternoon. In Darjeeling there is a culture of having scones and pastries with tea in the afternoon, so why not Kathmandu?”  

Buying tea directly from small plantations in Illam, Jiri, and Dhankuta, and from major tea companies, Shah offers a variety of Nepali teas as well as teas from China, Japan, Sri Lanka and Thailand. In the afternoon tea set you can chose from Japanese Matcha tea and Thai Pea tea, to Blooming tea and hand-rolled Himalayan tea. All teas are served in real antique silver teapots (imported from London), with silver plated tea strainers and the finest bone china cups.  

But no afternoon tea is complete without the food! Noya offers a variety of finger sandwiches, savouries, scones with jam and clotted cream, Victoria sponge, and other cakes. Your typical English afternoon tea. But again in-keeping with that fusion of cultures, Noya also offers afternoon tea Nepali style. On offer with Nepali chai is a range of savouries such as bara, chatamari and khapse, and sweets. Determined to keep away from Indian sweets, Shah sources his sweets, including barfi, jeri-swari, and gulmadi, from small family-run, traditional sweet shops in Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu. Tasty, and helping to keep alive the dying tradition of Nepali sweet making! All the goodies in the English and the Nepali afternoon tea sets are served on a three-tier plate stand, a pure afternoon tea etiquette, starting with savoury on the bottom and ending with the sweetest titbits on the top. 

Afternoon teas are available daily by reservation only (one day prior). From Rs 2,500 per set (for 2 people). For further information, and to make reservations, see Noya on Facebook.

The Matka Café can be found not just in Thapa Gaon, New Baneswor. It is ubiquitous on Twitter, where owner Prakash Pyakurel (@Jitpur) regularly tweets and communicates with his customers, and where he debates contemporary topics—even about how expensive the tea is at Matka!

 The Matka, probably the only café in Nepal with a strong Twitter presence, is also the hub for a big group of Nepali Twitterati who spend hours socializing and chatting in the cozy café. Free wifi, a separate smoking zone and good company make it an ideal place to spend one’s leisure time, or drop by for a quick bite.

 The debate over the pricing of Matka’s Rs 120 masala tea served piping hot in a hardened clay cup (matka) is just an excuse for its followers (or non-followers) to have a bit of fun, we think. The APEX food sleuths have had more expensive tea at far less appealing joints.

THE MENU

Chef’s Special:

- Milk Masala Tea

- Mutton Khaja Set

- Saadheko Mo:Mo

Opening hours: 8 am to 8 pm

Location: New Baneshwor

Cards: Not Accepted

Meal for 2: Rs 1,000

Reservations: 9851075260

 With its famous star insignia and signature rubber soles, Converse is easily one of the most recognizable shoe brands in the world. First created in 1908, Converse has for decades been ruling the sneakers section of the global shoe market. Originally designed and made for American basketball players, these durable and comfortable shoes are now as popular among sportspersons as they are among hip urbanites.

 Converse sneakers first entered Nepal in 1979. Not much is known about their early Nepali customers except that most of them perhaps came from rich and elite families of the yore.

 “No one knows who introduced Converse in Nepal,” says Madhu Rai, the store in-charge of Converse New Road branch in Kathmandu. “Some say it was an Indian businessman, while others think the local Marwari community was responsible.”

 Right now, in Nepal, Converse shoes are sold from its five official outlets: at United World Trade Center (UWTC) Tripureshwor, New Road, Durbar Marg, and in Kathmandu Mall and Civil Mall. Customers from outside Kathmandu valley can order the shoes via phone, e-mail or social media.

A pair of original Converse will cost you anywhere between Rs 4,490 and Rs 9,000

 A pair of original Converse will cost you anywhere between Rs 4,490 and Rs 9,000. (Fake ones and copies, which are more ubiquitous than the originals, are available for as little as Rs 1,000.) “Most Converse shoes available in Nepal are brought from Singapore,” says Amrit Shrestha, the overall manager of Converse Nepal.

 Shrestha adds: “Just as Goldstar was once considered synonymous with rural populations, Converse has come to represent the modern, elite class of Kathmandu.”

 He says Converse shoes are popular among the capital’s brand-conscious youths who are looking to make a strong fashion statement with their preference for trendy brands.

 Ganesh Bhujel, 28, an IT Student found at Khichapokhari, loves the shoes for their tenderness, smooth surface, and unique color scheme.

 “Wearing a ‘Chuck Taylor Converse All Star’ makes me feel like I am marching in a mega-fashion parade,” adds Bhujel. A Converse fan for the past six years, Bhujel likes to flaunt his “few dozen Converses” on Instagram and Snapchat.

 Yet it is not just the urban teens and sports enthusiasts who wear Converse. Says Samir Shrestha, a hotel entrepreneur and another Converse fan, “Besides the urban youth, I also find that many entrepreneurs, bankers and industrialists also love this brand.”

 Samir Shrestha refers to the original Converse. The cheap fake versions from ‘Hong Kong bazaars’ and footpaths of Ratnapark are perhaps even more popular. Rare will be a longtime resident of Kathmandu who has never sported a pair.

 Or foreign tourists to Nepal, for that matter. “I have a collection of around 20 dozens Chuck Taylor Converse Shoes at my home in Alabama, USA,” says Nathan Morris, an American IT expert and tourist who was recently spotted in a pair of Converse in Jhochhen, Basantapur.

 But how different are the originals to their copies? “I have been wearing these shoes for a long time and I am still unable to differentiate between the original Converse and their good copies,” says Madhav Chhinal, a young design executive working for a media company. “In fact, I have never bought what you would call original Converse and yet nobody in my circle has been able to tell the difference.”

 Back in the Converse store in New Road, store in-charge Rai estimates that on average an official store in Kathmandu sells anywhere between Rs 60,000 to Rs 150,000 worth of original shoes a week. There is no telling how much the roadside vendors who are selling Converse copies by the NAC building not a kilometer away earn in the same time.