Towns at a crossroads

Municipalities in Nepal stand at a crossroads, facing complex challenges posed by the rapid urbanization the country is witnessing. New towns have emerged to accommodate the nation’s growing urban population while existing ones have expanded rapidly over the last decades. The rapid growth of towns has placed municipalities at the forefront of managing the country’s escalating urbanization challenges, the mismanagement of which can severely impact urban well-being. While the pressure on local governments to address the issues before them is mounting, they remain poorly financed and functionally restrained, risking the perils of haphazard urbanization, the consequences of which bear serious repercussions. 

Local governments in Nepal were entrusted with key responsibilities after the adoption of federalism in 2015, and they now have local health, education, agriculture and several other functions under their remit. They are entitled to receive federal grants, provincial budget transfers and shares from tax collections to support their finances, and can even borrow if required. Uniquely, the country’s municipalities are assuming responsibilities at a time when local governments globally face mounting civic challenges amplified by climate change. This makes Nepal’s federalization process both crucial and delicate, but the agenda remains politically deprioritized and institutionally stalled, and several provisions surrounding federalism fail to be implemented. 

While the dynamics of federalism in the country are in a state of flux, an argument that makes the case for fast-tracking the power transfer to local governments is that delaying this process has high costs. Research shows that countries urgently need to increase municipal investments to sustain civic well-being, and Nepal is no exception. Municipalities need to invest now in establishing planned colonies to curb informal settlements that cause urban congestion. They need to invest now in disaster management measures that wreak havoc in cities every monsoon. They need to commit resources now to urban mobility, pollution management and green infrastructure without which livability in towns will remain compromised and deteriorate over time. These investments need to be made at a speed that matches the rapid urbanization Nepal is witnessing. The World Bank reports that Nepal is the fastest urbanizing country in South Asia, giving the Himalayan nation only a small window to make these time-sensitive investments that will profoundly dictate the quality of life in the country.

Many cities in Nepal are already facing the fallout of failing to act on time, and Kathmandu stands as a prime example. The capital’s congested urban sprawl is the result of poor governance during the 2000s when rapid urbanization overwhelmed the government’s capacity to manage the city’s haphazard growth. Kathmandu’s inadequate road infrastructure, lack of open spaces and inefficient transport networks are direct consequences of years of flawed planning and neglect of municipal priorities. Besides the government’s poor policy foresight, this outcome exposes the general underestimation of municipalities as important actors in driving development, gravely ignoring their vital role in enhancing citizens’ quality of life. Birgunj, Biratnagar and Bhairahwa are other major cities that have struggled to manage their rapid urbanization and now face pressing urban issues like congestion, poor mobility and limited open spaces for recreation. 

Despite the urgency of interventions, local governments are able to do little to address the issues before them. In addition to the federal government's reluctance to devolve key functions, municipalities face critical financing challenges that constrain their ability to act. The budgets of most local governments are already under strain from the extensive responsibilities they manage with limited resources, leaving little room for investment in high-cost urgent interventions. Most local units have limited self-generated revenue and lack the capacity to improve tax administration or diversify income sources. The Intergovernmental Fiscal Arrangement Act 2074, the legislation that outlines financial relationships between three levels of government, allows sub-national governments to secure domestic loans, but municipalities have failed to borrow due to their low creditworthiness. 

International aid and urban climate finance that support municipal investments are in their early stages, and accessing these funds is challenging for Nepal where data on municipality-level financing needs are not robust. Internally, the municipal financing environment isn’t favorable either, with the Town Development Fund being the only specialized municipal lender. Despite receiving support from global development partners, the fund is able to cater to only a fraction of local governments and mostly engages in financing small to medium-scale projects. This combination of limited resources and a nascent borrowing environment creates a substantial funding shortfall for Nepal’s municipalities, leaving them helpless to act. 

It is concerning to see the level of government closest to the citizens, and bearing prime functional responsibilities, face challenges of such magnitude. Even more concerning is the lack of recognition of local governments as powerful entities capable of improving lives at scale through the powers vested in them. While the role of the federal and provincial governments is important for driving national growth, municipalities overwhelmingly fulfill the more immediate needs of daily life that define our day-to-day well-being. Hence, empowering municipalities with resources to invest in pressing municipal needs is imperative. 

The federal government, media, policy professionals, and most importantly, the public, need to view municipalities as important stakeholders whose performance greatly shapes the quality of lives we live. It is of critical importance that local governments are given their due means to perform their functions and make the interventions that are the need of the hour. Failing to do so will leave our cities vulnerable and depress the already poor quality of urban life in many parts of the country. Though reforms are underway, their pace is below the mark and stakeholders’ efforts lack the required enthusiasm. Municipalities are in a race against time, and we must act promptly to use the window of opportunity before the time runs out. 

The author is research fellow at the Nepal Economic Forum

 

Methi: The unique identity of Nepali cuisine

If anyone asked me, even in a dream, what my favorite spice is, my answer would always be fenugreek—methi dana, the methi seed. Perhaps it’s because it was my mother’s favorite spice. She never claimed methi as her favorite spice, but she used it to temper almost every curry, pickle, and achar she prepared. She would add methi when soaking rice for sel roti, Nepal’s favorite snack, shared by all 128 communities across the country.

One particular memory stands out: She used to prepare a summer drink called ‘misri kada.’ She soaked methi seeds overnight with rock sugar (misri) and strained the mixture to create a refreshing morning drink. This simple concoction helped us stay cool during the scorching summer heat. Methi’s magic was also evident in the western parts of Nepal, where dishes like the famous ‘chukani’ were always tempered with methi seeds, just like Kathmandu Valley’s renowned ‘choila’.

As a 44-year-old Nepal-born British chef, my current aim is to distinguish Nepali cuisine from other South Asian cuisines and establish its unique identity on the global food map. I believe methi will play a central role in this endeavor. While Indian and other South Asian kitchens often use cumin or mustard seeds for tempering, Nepali kitchens rely on methi dana. Did you know that the dominant flavor in India’s best butter chicken and the UK’s favorite chicken tikka masala comes from methi leaves? 

Methi’s origins can be traced back over 4,000 years to the fertile crescent region, where it was first cultivated in ancient Mesopotamia. Historical texts and archaeological evidence suggest that the Egyptians used methi as part of their embalming processes and as a flavoring agent in their bread. Its journey from the Middle East to the Indian subcontinent was facilitated by ancient trade routes. By the time methi reached Indian shores, it had already become integral to Ayurvedic medicine and Indian cuisine.

In India, the seeds (methi dana) and leaves (fresh methi or kasuri methi) are used in a variety of dishes. Methi seeds are small, golden-brown, and hard, with a slightly bitter taste that mellows and deepens when roasted or cooked. The leaves, on the other hand, are fresh, green, and aromatic, lending a unique flavor to curries, breads, and stir-fries.

One of the reasons methi is so revered in Indian cuisine is its versatility. Methi seeds are a common component of spice blends such as panch phoron and sambar powder. They add a distinct bitterness that balances the richness of curries. Fresh methi leaves are kneaded into dough to make methi parathas, theplas, and naans. The leaves impart an earthy aroma and flavor that make these breads unique. Methi seeds are often added to Indian pickles, where their bitterness cuts through the tangy, spicy, and oily flavors. Perhaps one of the most interesting uses of methi is its addition to dosa batter, a South Indian staple made from fermented rice and lentils.

Methi’s unique ability to enhance flavor can be attributed to its complex chemical composition. The seeds contain compounds such as sotolone, which gives methi its characteristic maple syrup-like aroma, and trigonelline, which contributes to its bitterness. When methi seeds are roasted, these compounds undergo chemical transformations that release nutty, caramel-like notes.

In culinary science, methi acts as a flavor enhancer because it provides balance and depth to dishes. Bitterness, when used in moderation, can counteract excessive sweetness or acidity in a dish, creating a harmonious flavor profile. This is why methi is often paired with rich and spicy foods—its bitterness provides a necessary contrast that enhances the overall eating experience.

The addition of methi seeds to dosa batter is a centuries-old practice rooted in both science and tradition. Methi seeds contain galactomannan, a natural gum that aids in fermentation. When soaked and ground with rice and lentils, it promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria, leading to a light, airy batter that yields crispy dosas. The mucilaginous (slimy) property of methi seeds improves the batter’s viscosity, ensuring even spreading on the griddle and resulting in dosas with the perfect texture. The subtle bitterness of methi offsets the sourness of the fermented batter, creating a nuanced flavor profile that elevates the dosa’s taste.

Methi’s journey doesn’t end in India. It continues to be a cornerstone of Nepali cuisine. In Nepal, methi seeds are known as ‘methi dana,’ and they hold a special place in traditional cooking and rituals. Fresh methi leaves, often referred to as ‘saag,’ are widely consumed in curries and stir-fries.

One of the most iconic uses of methi seeds in Nepal is in the preparation of ‘achaar’ (pickle). Methi is dry-roasted and ground into a powder, which is then mixed with mustard oil, chili, and other spices to create tangy and spicy pickles that are a staple in every Nepali household.

Methi is also an essential ingredient in ‘gundruk ko jhol,’ a traditional soup made from fermented leafy greens. The bitterness of methi seeds complements the sourness of the gundruk, creating a dish that is as nutritious as it is flavorful.

What sets Nepal apart in its use of methi is its emphasis on the ingredient’s medicinal properties. In many rural areas, methi seeds are chewed raw or soaked overnight in water to treat digestive issues, joint pain, and hormonal imbalances. The traditional belief that food is medicine is deeply ingrained in Nepali culture, and methi epitomizes this philosophy.

Furthermore, methi is a key ingredient in ‘sel roti,’ a traditional Nepali rice flour doughnut. A pinch of methi powder is added to the batter to enhance the flavor and balance the sweetness of this festive treat.

Methi’s journey from ancient Mesopotamia to South Asia has been marked by its unparalleled ability to enhance flavor, promote health, and adapt to a variety of culinary traditions. By celebrating this humble yet extraordinary spice, we not only enrich our meals but also honor the culinary wisdom of our ancestors.

The author is a London-based R&D chef

‘Nepalka Nidhi’ book review: Capturing the essence of a Gandhian leader

In contemporary Nepali society, there is a widespread belief that honest politicians are essential for progress. While Nepal has historically been home to many selfless and dedicated leaders, the country still lacks politicians who approach politics with a sense of sacrifice, prioritizing the nation and its citizens above all else. Mahendra Narayan Nidhi stands out as one such rare figure. Kishore Nepal’s book, Nepal Kaa Nidhi, made it easier to capture the essence of Nidhi’s personality and contributions in this narrative.

A practitioner of Gandhian ideals

Mahendra Narayan Nidhi was born in February 1922 into a prominent family in Nagarain, a village located about 14 kilometers south of Janakpur near the Indian border. Despite his family’s comfortable financial standing, his upbringing mirrored that of an average child in the Madhesi community. With no schools in Nagarain or nearby villages, Nidhi was unable to attend formal education during his early years. His father, Rajeshwar Nidhi, taught him the basics of literacy at home. After primary education, Nidhi studied Sanskrit under the guidance of priests in the neighboring village of Jatahi. Later, he familiarized himself with the laws and regulations of Nepal’s judicial system before joining his father in business. Through his travels to various villages for work, Nidhi gained a deep understanding of the realities of Madhesi society.

Despite lacking a formal degree, Nidhi developed a strong sense of social awareness early on. His leadership journey began after the Nepali Congress’s Janakpur convention in 1953, where he played a pivotal role in expanding the party’s organizational reach in the Mahottari region.

Nidhi is often regarded as one of Nepal’s Gandhian leaders. Inspired by Gandhi’s independence movement in India and influenced by leaders like Jayaprakash Narayan (JP) and Ram Manohar Lohia, Nidhi entered politics with a vision to rebuild Nepal on the principles of truth and non-violence, starting from the grassroots level. Like Gandhi, he embraced satyagraha (non-violent resistance) as a powerful tool in his political struggles. From 1947 onward, Nidhi actively promoted satyagraha and was arrested in 1957 for participating in such movements.

December 15, 1960, marks a dark chapter in Nepal’s history when King Mahendra seized absolute power, dismantling the democratic system. In response, the Nepali Congress, based in Patna, resolved to launch an armed struggle. However, Nidhi remained steadfast in his commitment to non-violence. He believed that a true satyagrahi should embody qualities such as fearlessness, self-discipline, and restraint, which he demonstrated through his actions rather than mere words. Upon returning to Nepal, Nidhi openly opposed the politics of violence and was subsequently imprisoned. His unwavering adherence to non-violence, even in the face of adversity, highlighted his idealism and moral courage.

A bold and visionary leader

In 1964, during a program organized by the Panchayati government in Janakpur, Nidhi boldly stated, “Writing laws and regulations alone cannot bring change to our country; they must be implemented truthfully.” He fearlessly criticized the Panchayat regime’s education policy in 1971, advocating for education in one’s mother tongue—a demand that remains relevant today.

In 1976, when B.P. Koirala and Ganeshman Singh returned to Nepal, embracing national unity and reconciliation, the Nepali Congress faced internal strife. At a central working committee meeting in Calcutta, presided over by Suvarna Samsher, B.P. Koirala was expelled from the party. Girija Prasad Koirala organized a conference in Patna to oppose this decision, and Nidhi played a crucial role in resolving the conflict. He argued that expelling a leader of B.P.’s stature could not be decided unilaterally. After meeting Suvarna Samsher in Calcutta, Nidhi convinced him to hand over the party’s leadership to B.P., thereby preventing the Congress from descending into division and mistrust. Kishore Nepal, in his book Nepal Kaa Nidhi, emphasizes that Nidhi’s wisdom and diplomacy saved the party during a critical juncture.

During the interim government of 1990, Nidhi served as the Minister of Water Resources and Local Development at the request of Prime Minister Krishna Prasad Bhattarai. As the Minister of Local Development, he dismantled the Panchayat-era structures and established Village Development Committees and District Development Committees. He also advocated against introducing party politics in local body elections, warning that it would divide communities—a vision that remains unaddressed to this day. As the Minister of Water Resources, Nidhi revived the Nepal-India Joint Committee meetings on the Koshi and Gandaki rivers, which had been stalled for years. His innovative approach led to concrete decisions on the Kulekhani hydroelectric projects and an agreement to sell Nepal’s surplus electricity to India without incurring losses—a policy that continues to be a source of economic pride for Nepal.

A humble and unforgettable legacy

Mahendra Narayan Nidhi was a down-to-earth leader whose influence on Nepal’s political history remains indelible. He refrained from engaging in internal party rivalries, even when others sought to split the Nepali Congress for personal gain. The late Pradeep Giri once remarked on Nidhi’s unique intellectualism: “Some intellectuals derive their ideas from the works of Marx, Lenin, Gandhi, or Gramsci, while others form their ideas by observing people, understanding their needs, and responding to them. Mahendra Narayan Nidhi belonged to the latter category.”

 

Nidhi’s legacy is a testament to his unwavering commitment to truth, non-violence, and the welfare of the nation. His life and work continue to inspire future generations of leaders in Nepal.

Not a plant murderer anymore: Learning the basics of plant care

For years after I got married and moved into my own home, I tried to do what my mother has always done: maintain a lush beautiful garden. I didn’t have much space so I bought a lot of pots and planters and took to turning our balcony into a tiny green oasis. I also placed plants strategically around the house, in the living room and the bedroom. I bought expensive plants, considering them to be one-time investments, got cuttings from mom and some friends, and even tried my luck with some seeds.

When it was all done and in place, it looked beautiful. I had a variety of indoor and outdoor plants as well as herbs and chili growing in containers along the kitchen window sill. I thought I was sorted. Till they eventually began to droop and die, one by one. By the end of two years, my initially lush snake plant, that I had bought for an eye-watering amount, had one lone stem standing.

I didn’t give up. I bought more plants and quickly had the situation under control. The pots were looking full and luscious once again. But the same thing would happen. After a while in our apartment, the plants just didn’t look as happy and healthy as they did when I had first gotten them. They started losing their fullness, developing patches on the leaves, and turning yellow.

I did everything I could to save my plants. I searched for information online to figure out what I was doing wrong. I asked my mother and friends for advice. I downloaded an app that I could use to take and upload a photo of my plants and it would give me detailed care instructions for them.  At one point, I even tried talking to them and then eventually ignoring them wondering if it was the extra attention that was making them act up. But nothing worked. They would all wither and die and I would have to get new ones again.

I took comfort in the fact that there were many people like me out there. I have a friend who always says she’s in a short-term relationship whenever she gets a new plant. When it dies, she says she’s going through a breakup. A colleague says he and his wife have finally given in and bought some ‘real-looking’ fake plants for their living space. It doesn’t need watering and fertilizing. And they don’t have to worry it might die. All it needs, they say, is a good wipe down once in a while and it looks good. Minimal effort, maximum effect, they say.

I was tempted to buy one myself. After all, in the long run, even the most expensive one would be far cheaper than buying a real Peace Lily every few months. Some of these fake plants that look almost real (in one case, my husband even tried to tear a leaf because he thought it was real) cost upwards of Rs 8,000. I’ve considered buying one that I thought would look great in our living room and it was priced at a whopping Rs 15,000. I think there’s a market for fake plants since there are many plant murderers like me.

But my mother studied Botany and I’m her daughter. I couldn’t buy fake plants and dishonor her like that. That was my illogical reasoning. I couldn’t just give up. And so, when we shifted homes three years ago, I tried again. I pretty much vowed this would be the last time I’d buy plants as a new home had pretty much siphoned our finances. And so, I bought everything again. From the expensive Snake Plant to the hard-to-maintain Chrysanthemums, I went all out. But this time, I also bought the right gardening mix and good quality fertilizers. I repotted the plants instead of just placing them around the house in the containers they came in. Much like I did before, I started googling and learning about the different kinds of plants and their requirements. I was determined to see my plants thrive.

And so far, I’m happy to report that, with the exception of one or two, they are all thriving really well. A well-lit house helps, I’ve realized. Most indoor plants need a lot of natural light. They also don’t like to be overcrowded. Plants that are on their own or with just another one for company seem to thrive better than plants that are clustered together. There’s also really no need to water them every day or even every other day. If possible, open the windows to let in fresh air as plants seem to like that. It’s also a good idea to spray water on their leaves every now and then, apart from the usual watering.

A relative came home during our homewarning and said that he’d like to see what happened to the plants in a few months time. The scorn was evident in his voice. I think I wanted to prove him wrong so badly that this time whenever I’ve noticed a plant behaving weirdly, I’ve almost instantly replanted them or shifted them to a new place. I’ve come to realize that most plants don’t thrive because their lighting requirements aren’t met or because something is off with the soil.

Repotting or moving a withering plant to well lit or a spot that doesn’t get direct light has often done the trick and saved them from dying. Along with that, it’s also quite important to get their watering needs right. Some plants need moist soil while some have to completely dry out between watering sessions. There are good guides on various plants’ light, water, and fertilizer requirements on the internet and following it has worked to my advantage. I also find talking with a local gardener or nursery owner helps. They are able to tell you what is wrong with a plant by looking at them. I’ve often shown them pictures of my plants and the advice they have given me has worked wonders in ensuring they grow really well.

It’s disheartening when your plants wilt and don’t look lush but don’t give up. It’s quite common for them to look a little frail during winter but that doesn’t necessarily mean they won’t look healthy and lush when the season changes and it’s bright and warm. More often than not, people also tend to replace plants without giving them enough time to recover. Gardening requires patience and practice and it can be extremely rewarding to see something you have brought in and taken care of thrive and grow.