Onward to Dharapani: Manang
After Syange, the terrain transformed into a rugged beauty, with challenging climbs and narrow roads adorned with rocks and gravel—tricky to navigate. Raju took it in stride, but I had to dismount frequently and push my bike. The elevation gain had begun, and we felt a slight chill in the fresh morning air, a reminder of the breathtaking beauty surrounding us.
We stopped at Jagat (1,300 meters) to regain our breath and rest briefly. Like other towns, we left behind a row of back-to-back tea shops and lodges flanking the road with tilting, colorful roofs, primarily two-story. We had a cup of tea, some biscuits, and a brief chat with Ghale Gurung, the owner.
Upon my casual questioning about his business, he shook his head. “Not as it used to be after the road opened. Trekkers prefer traveling by jeep to Chame, the district headquarters of Manang. The teahouses have lost their business by as high as 60 percent, if not more; many have quit,” he said, his frustration echoing the plight of many local businesses affected by modernization.
A little further, we ran into a group of American hikers taking a break by the roadside. They were hiking back from Manang. One of the guys looked my age, but when I casually asked, I found he was only 65. He looked surprised when I told him my age and that we were doing the Annapurna Circuit on our bicycles.
For the next two hours, we slugged it out on grueling uphills, an isolated gravelly road across forested hills with sheer escarpments that dropped way down to Marshyangdi. But if anything, we were still pedaling across Lamjung, the Manang border a long way away. We were already late for lunch but mighty relieved to see a town in the distance, Chamje 1,430m).
Well, well, well, what do you know—another colossal waterfall! Fascinated, we gorged on our dal-bhat, peering out the tea-house window, the waterfall across the Marshyangdi, cannoning down a steep hill that looked like 100 meters to me. It was called the Boong Jharna (waterfall).
Chamje, as the teahouse owner told us, was also a popular haunt for water canyoning adventure sports. As we left, my eyes fell on hedges of flaming crimson poinsettia in full bloom around the small settlement. To add to the appeal, clumps of yellow marigolds appeared scattered around the locale, a vibrant display of the local flora that adds to the village’s charm.
It took us barely 20 minutes to arrive at the main town of Chamje, a tight cluster of teahouses and hotels on a sharp incline fringing both sides of the road.
Hardly had we left behind the town, an excited Raju hollered out: “Another waterfall!” A small crowd, primarily motorbikers, was gathered at a teahouse next to the waterfall to watch the arresting sight.
It was called the Octopus waterfall and cascaded down to the roadside in a dramatic multi-pronged configuration that evoked the flailing tentacles of an octopus, thereby dubbed with that name, we figured. This unique natural formation, with its striking resemblance to an octopus, is a testament to the diverse and awe-inspiring landscapes of the Annapurna Circuit.
Although we ran out of time, we couldn’t resist and hung around for quite some time. “Wow! Lamjung seems brimming with incredible waterfalls,” said Raju, sounding euphoric. Suddenly, it struck us that we did not have all the time in the world, and we hastened to spin; it was already past 3 pm.
The sun lurked on our shoulders as we left, warning us with each spin that it would get dark soon. The road got rockier and narrower as we huffed it up steep ascents, Tal still dim and distant as far as we could stretch our eyes.
When we sighted Tal (1,700 meters) from a bluff, way up, outstretched along the banks of Marsyangdi, it was a sight for sore eyes. However, the dirt roadway to Manang did not lead through the imposing city across the Marshyangdi.
Darkness soon crept in after Tal, and the road turned into a mess. Navigating the slush, the road spattered with rocks and debris from the aftermath of the post-monsoon flooding and landslips, over the narrow beam of our bicycle light was anything but tricky, nay dangerous. The road conditions were treacherous, with the constant threat of slipping or hitting a rock, making our progress slow and cautious.
Then we froze in our tracks. It looked like we had hit an impasse as a frightening water chute fell with a rumble at a curb, surging over the road, inundating it, and crashing down a ravine to our right.
“Ke garne (what to do)? It looks like we are stuck,” I said, mighty alarmed, and looked at Raju. The pool appeared deep, but we could not figure it out. We could not walk our bikes across either, as the entire road was waterlogged, and it was not wise to wet our only pair of shoes.
“Uncle, I’ll attempt first to pedal across,” Raju said. I genuinely admired his grit and gumption at such tight corners; he always held on to a forerunner. Over the din of the crashing water, Raju, without a second thought, tore across; I watched with bated breath. Thank heavens, he made it!
It was my turn, now. It was a moment of truth for me; with my heart in my mouth, I shot at the pool. And I did it, too! Phew! Granted, we had overcome the hurdle but landed with dripping shoes soaked to the socks as the water level almost reached the bike’s mid-tire.
I was past hope about making it to our day's layover at Dharapani but dragged along the pitted and muddy road, which seemed to play tricks on my eyes in the narrow flare of my light. After about 7:30 pm, we finally arrived at Dharapani (1,860 meters), an elevation gain of almost 800 meters that day, and it felt pretty cold.
What on earth! To our misery, no lodges had a vacancy. However, one staff member from the hotel we had dropped by volunteered to scout around and eventually managed a crummy room for us. Near desperation, the thought that we might have to bunk under an open sky made me shiver involuntarily.
Cold, exhausted, and wet, we hit the bunk early after a hasty supper, with a comforting and lasting feeling that we had, after all, a roof over our heads—and thankful to the guy for doing us a good turn. The relief and gratitude we felt at that moment were palpable.
Threat to Nepal’s democracy: Undermining separation of powers
The principle of the separation of powers is a fundamental principle in the structure of modern democratic governance. It divides governmental powers into three branches: the executive, the legislature and the judiciary. The idea behind this separation is to prevent any single branch from accumulating too much power, ensuring a system of checks and balances that maintains democratic integrity and upholds the rule of law. In theory, each branch operates independently and acts as a counterbalance to the others, safeguarding individual freedoms and preventing authoritarian rule.
In the context of Nepal, the separation of powers has faced significant challenges in the post-republic era, particularly after the abolition of the monarchy in 2008. While the country formally transitioned into a republic, the violation of the principle of separation of powers has led to institutional weaknesses and the erosion of democratic values. This article explores the significance of the separation of powers in a democratic system, examines instances of its violation in Nepal’s post-republic era and highlights the consequences for the nation’s democratic health.
Importance of separation of powers
The separation of powers plays a crucial role in preventing the abuse of power by ensuring that no single entity has control over all aspects of governance. By dividing authority among different branches of government, each one serves as a check on the others, protecting citizens’ rights and preventing any one branch from becoming too dominant.
This system also promotes accountability. When power is shared, the legislature can scrutinize the actions of the executive, and the judiciary ensures that laws are applied fairly and impartially. This encourages transparency and makes those in power answerable to the public.
One of the most important aspects of the separation of powers is its role in safeguarding individual freedoms. The judiciary acts as a guardian of constitutional rights, ensuring that neither the executive nor the legislature can infringe upon fundamental freedoms. This protection helps to maintain a free and just society.
Moreover, the separation of powers contributes to the stability of governance. By distributing power among different branches, it helps counterbalance fluctuations or the concentration of power in any one area. This balance prevents instability and ensures that the government remains fair and resilient, even during times of political change.
Violation unabated
Nepal, after the declaration of the republic in 2008, adopted a democratic framework based on the principle of the separation of powers. However, the country’s post-monarchical era has seen numerous violations of this principle, which have had serious repercussions on the health of Nepalese democracy.
Executive overreach, legislative subjugation
One of the primary violations in Nepal’s recent history involves the dominance of the executive branch over the legislature. Since the reemergence of the parliamentary party system in Nepal in 1990, the House of Representatives has been dissolved six times. The fifth dissolution occurred on 20 Dec 2020, when Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli, acting on the recommendation of his cabinet, advised President Bidya Devi Bhandari to dissolve the House. President Bhandari accepted the recommendation the same day and announced that elections would be held in two phases: 30 April and 10 May 2021.
However, on 23 Feb 2021, the Supreme Court ruled that the dissolution of the House of Representatives was unconstitutional and ordered its reinstatement. The court issued a mandamus, directing that the House be convened within 13 days. As a result of the ruling, a session of the House was held on 7 March 2021.
In the sixth instance, on 22 May 2021, Prime Minister Oli again recommended to President Bhandari the dissolution of the House and the scheduling of mid-term elections for 12 Nov and 19 Nov 2021. The President accepted the recommendation, and the House of Representatives was dissolved once again, with the election dates announced accordingly.
Impeachment
In Feb 2021, Nepal’s ruling parties filed an impeachment motion against Chief Justice Cholendra Shumsher Rana, making him the second chief justice in the country’s history to face such a motion, following Sushila Karki in 2017. At the time, the Nepali Congress, the CPN (Maoist Center) and CPN (Unified Socialist) supported the motion against Rana, with Sher Bahadur Deuba as prime minister. The motion against Karki, filed in 2017, was led by Congress lawmaker Min Bahadur Bishwakarma, while the current motion against Rana was proposed by key figures from the ruling parties.
Karki’s impeachment led to her suspension and Gopal Parajuli temporarily taking over, with Rana later staying the motion. After Parajuli’s resignation, Rana became chief justice in 2019. Now, almost five years later, Rana faces his own impeachment motion, primarily due to accusations of corruption, misconduct and failure to perform his duties.
Consequences
When one branch of government begins encroaching on the others, it weakens the very foundation of democratic institutions. The independence and effectiveness of these institutions are compromised, leading to a loss of public trust in the democratic process. Over time, this erosion of faith increases the risk of authoritarianism taking root.
In Nepal, the manipulation of the separation of powers has contributed to political instability. Political parties often use state institutions to consolidate their own power, which has led to ongoing factionalism and conflict. This pattern is evident in the frequent changes in government leadership and the breakdown of the political system, leaving the country in a state of uncertainty.
For the people of Nepal, this constant political drama has led to growing disillusionment. The disregard for constitutional principles has made citizens skeptical of the political process, which in turn has resulted in lower voter participation. This disillusionment weakens the democratic process and erodes public support for democratic governance.
The lack of independence in the judiciary has further exacerbated this situation. When the legal system is not allowed to operate free from political influence, citizens lose confidence in it. Corruption, bias and the absence of fair justice create a culture of impunity, where political interests subvert the rule of law and undermine justice for all.
Conclusion
The separation of powers is essential in maintaining a healthy and functioning democracy. It ensures that power is not concentrated in the hands of one branch of government and that each branch can check the excesses of the others. Nepal’s post-republic era has been marked by several violations of this principle, leading to political instability, diminished trust in democratic institutions and public disillusionment with governance.
To restore the integrity of Nepal’s democracy, it is crucial to uphold the separation of powers and strengthen the independence of each branch of the state. Without this, the nation risks further undermining its democratic progress and succumbing to authoritarian tendencies. Only through respect for the separation of powers can Nepal ensure a more accountable, transparent and vibrant democracy for future generations.
Editorial: Justice above all else
The tragic loss of Prakriti Lamsal, a 20-year-old BTech (third year) Computer Science student at the Kalinga Institute of Industrial Technology (KITT) in Bhubaneswar, has once again brought to the fore the issue of safety and security of Nepali students studying abroad, India in particular.
Details of what exactly happened on the KITT premises in the evening of February 13 remain quite sketchy, despite widespread media coverage in both India and Nepal as most of the students had gone to attend the institute’s foundation day. Media reports, quoting friends and batchmates, suggest that the young girl from Butwal was in a toxic relationship with another BTech Mechanical (third year) student identified as Advik Shrivastava (21) from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. Tapes of a conversation between the two have surfaced, giving an indication of the extent of abuse that the young girl may have been facing for quite some time, something which some of her friends have also alluded to.
As the case unfolds, there are ample reasons to believe that this tragic loss of life may have gone unnoticed had some of her courageous friends not dared to share it with media outlets despite considerable threats to their well-being via a messaging app.
These reports also suggest that the abusive and unhealthy relationship was no secret for the institute in question as the young, courageous and bright girl had lodged her complaint against the abuser at the International Relations Office. The office intervened to an extent, but there is every reason to believe that it could have done a lot more to protect an international student with hardly any support system in the host country from an abusive relationship.
On the contrary, its staff, including teachers, made a desperate attempt to cover up the entire incident by seeking to silence fellow students demanding justice through unsavory words against Nepal and the use of brute force. As part of that attempt, they forced hundreds of protesting Nepali students to leave the facility, threatening to unleash police against them if they did not oblige.
With no money to foot their travel expenses, hundreds of Nepali students are on their way home amid an appeal (and apologies) from the institute to return for the resumption of their studies even as smoke from their friend’s funeral pyre billows in a faraway Swargadwari (Pyuthan district) just days after her aggrieved father demanded justice and fair treatment for Nepali students in the pilgrimage town of Bhubaneshwar.
Amid a never-ending news cycle, this story may get lost with the government of Nepal already feeling, perhaps, that it has done enough in this case and the institute also thinking that token steps like a scholarship honoring the student and action against some of its loudmouths will restore its reputation.
If our government thinks that a phone conversation or two and a dispatch of officials from the embassy in New Delhi are enough in a case like this, it is mistaken. The traumatized students may hesitate to return to the institution out of safety concerns. Who will be responsible for the impact of this incident on their studies and their future?
Who, if not the government of our country, will make sure that the young girl and her family get justice?
The government should move ahead with extreme sensitivity, keeping in mind that any leniency on its part may expose Nepalis studying abroad to greater risks in the coming days.
US aid cuts, geopolitics, and future of bilateral ties
In his first tenure as President of the United States, Donald J Trump’s familiarity with Nepal was, at best, minimal. During a 2017 meeting, he reportedly mispronounced Nepal as “nipple” and humorously referred to Bhutan as “button.” These incidents, while seemingly trivial, underscored a broader lack of US’s engagement with small nations. However, as Trump began his second term on 20 Jan 2025, his approach to Nepal appeared to shift.
This time, not only did he correctly pronounce the country’s name, but he also delved into specific projects funded by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) in Nepal. For instance, he controversially labeled a $20m allocation for fiscal federalism in Nepal as a “fraud,” though he failed to elaborate on why he held this view. This statement, while brief, has had significant repercussions in Nepal, particularly among anti-federal forces who have long argued that federalism is a foreign-imposed agenda.
Trump’s comments have provided a significant boost to these anti-federal forces, who are actively working to dismantle Nepal’s 2015 constitution. For years, these groups have claimed that federalism is not an indigenous concept but rather a product of foreign influence. Trump’s assertion that USAID’s funding for federalism is fraudulent has been interpreted by these groups as validation of their stance. As a result, many anti-federalists have become vocal supporters of Trump, believing that his administration aligns with their opposition to federalism. This development has added a new layer of complexity to Nepal’s domestic politics, as the debate over federalism continues to polarize the nation.
The impact of Trump’s policies on Nepal extends far beyond rhetoric. In late January 2025, Trump issued an executive order pausing all US foreign assistance for 90 days. While this move has affected numerous countries, its impact on Nepal has been particularly severe. Unlike larger nations such as China, which have been primarily affected by Trump’s trade tariffs, Nepal’s reliance on foreign aid makes it especially vulnerable to aid cuts. For a country that has long depended on international assistance to support its economy, health, education, and infrastructure, the suspension of US aid has been nothing short of devastating.
The immediate effects of the aid suspension are already being felt. From small stationary shops to five-star hotels, businesses that relied on the patronage of NGOs and INGOs funded by USAID are experiencing significant downturns. Stationary shop owners report a sharp decline in sales, as NGOs were among their primary customers. Similarly, hotels that once hosted events organized by international organizations are now struggling to maintain their revenue streams. Domestic airlines have also been hit hard, with a noticeable reduction in flights to major cities like Pokhara, Surkhet, Kailali, and Biratnagar, where NGO activities were once frequent. While precise numerical data on the economic impact of these changes is not yet available, it is clear that the suspension of US aid has disrupted one of the key drivers of Nepal’s hospitality and service sectors.
The ripple effects of the aid pause extend to local non-governmental organizations (NGOs) that depend on USAID funding. Many of these organizations are now downsizing or shutting down entirely, as they receive termination notices for projects funded by USAID or its implementing partners. Over the past few years, USAID had shifted its approach, working directly with local NGOs in an effort to bypass Kathmandu-based partners that were seen as ineffective. This shift had led to the establishment of branch offices in provinces like Lumbini and Madhes, where many NGOs focused their activities. Now, these offices and their staff face an uncertain future, as the suspension of funding leaves them without the resources to continue their work.
The challenges are not limited to local NGOs. American institutions operating in Nepal are also grappling with the fallout from Trump’s executive order. Many are laying off staff and considering whether to close their offices altogether. The lack of clear guidance from US headquarters has left these organizations in a state of confusion, unsure of how to proceed. Some have already terminated employee contracts due to a lack of funds to pay salaries. Even organizations aligned with the Republican Party’s agenda are not immune to these challenges, as the pause on foreign assistance applies across the board.
One of the most significant casualties of Trump’s aid suspension is the Millennium Challenge Corporation (MCC), a US-funded initiative that signed a $500m compact with Nepal in Sept 2017. The MCC compact aims to improve road quality, increase the availability and reliability of electricity, and facilitate cross-border electricity trade between Nepal and India. However, the project has been mired in controversy since its inception. From 2019 to 2022, the MCC became a divisive issue in Nepali society, with the country’s communist parties leading the charge against it. They argued that the MCC was part of the US Indo-Pacific Strategy (IPS) and should be rejected. China also opposed the project, labeling it a “Pandora’s box” that could undermine Nepal’s sovereignty.
Despite these objections, the Joe Biden administration worked tirelessly to secure parliamentary approval for the MCC. Senior US officials reportedly pressured Nepali leaders, even threatening to review bilateral relations if the compact was not endorsed. In the face of this pressure, Nepal’s political parties eventually approved the MCC in 2022, accompanied by a declarative interpretation stating that the compact was not part of the IPS. Since then, MCC projects have been making steady progress. However, Trump’s decision to suspend all foreign assistance for 90 days has brought these projects to a halt, raising concerns about whether the MCC will meet its five-year deadline. The suspension has also reignited political debates over the MCC, with opponents seizing the opportunity to renew their calls for its cancellation.
The broader implications of Trump’s aid suspension are deeply concerning for Nepal. Over the past few decades, Nepal has become increasingly dependent on foreign aid to address critical challenges in areas such as education, health, and climate change. Rather than reducing this dependence, the country has seen it grow. The sudden withdrawal of US support has exposed Nepal’s vulnerability, as the government lacks the resources to fill the void left by the aid cuts. For example, the US has officially canceled $19m in funding for biodiversity conservation, a critical issue for Nepal, which is on the frontlines of climate change. The loss of this funding will have dire consequences for Nepal’s ecosystems, which are already experiencing shifts in species distribution and an increased risk of extinction for many native plants and animals.
The suspension of funds for fiscal federalism and the cancellation of regional projects will further exacerbate Nepal’s challenges. These cuts come at a time when the country is already grappling with political instability, economic uncertainty, and the ongoing effects of climate change. The Nepal government and political parties have yet to officially respond to the aid suspension, as they are waiting to see whether the US will resume support after the 90-day pause. However, early indications suggest that the Indo-Pacific region remains a top priority for the Trump administration, which could mean continued support for Nepal, albeit through new mechanisms or agencies.
Some analysts speculate that the Trump administration may offer increased assistance to Nepal in exchange for reduced engagement with China. There are already murmurs within Nepal’s diplomatic circles that the US could pressure Nepal to scale back its participation in China’s Belt and Road Initiative (BRI), similar to what occurred in Panama. Additionally, there are concerns that the US may push Nepal to abandon its longstanding policy of non-alignment and align more closely with Western powers. Such a shift would represent a fundamental change in Nepal’s foreign policy, which has traditionally sought to maintain balanced relations with all major powers.
Given Nepal’s geopolitical position, experts argue that the country cannot afford to abandon its policy of non-alignment. Sandwiched between two regional giants, India and China, Nepal must navigate a delicate balancing act to preserve its sovereignty and independence. If the US ultimately decides to cut aid to Nepal, there are discussions within the political sphere about seeking support from other middle powers, such as the United Kingdom, Germany, South Korea, and Japan, to fill the void left by the US withdrawal. These countries are already exploring ways to support Nepal in critical areas if US assistance is not resumed after the 90-day pause.
The reduction of US influence in Nepal could be seen as a positive development for both India and China, which have long been wary of America’s growing presence in the region. However, it remains unclear how the Trump administration’s policies will evolve and how Nepal’s major political parties will respond to this new reality. Compounding the uncertainty is the fact that Nepal’s Embassy in the US is currently without an ambassador, as the newly appointed envoy has yet to assume office. In Kathmandu, think tanks and policy experts have begun deliberating on the potential impact of Trump’s policies and how Nepal should navigate this challenging period.
The Trump administration’s approach to Nepal has already shaken the foundations of the longstanding partnership between the two countries. The suspension of US aid is having far-reaching consequences, affecting everything from local businesses to large-scale infrastructure projects. As Nepal grapples with the fallout from these changes, it must also contend with the broader geopolitical implications of reduced US engagement. The coming months will be critical in determining the future of Nepal-US relations and the extent to which Nepal can adapt to this new reality.



