Chepangs without Chiuri and Chamero

There were days when Chepangs used to hunt bats, and it was a tradition in winter for all Chepang relatives to gather around and feast on tasty barbecued bats. I can romanticize the feast with flowery words. Sadly, many bat species around the world are vulnerable or endangered due to the loss of habitat, food, or roosts, pollution, disease, hunting, and killing.

The Chepangs, the most marginalized indigenous community of Nepal, have a special connection with bats (known as Chamero in Nepali) and Chiuri trees. According to their traditional stories, each of these three—Chepangs, bats, and Chiuri trees—depends on the other for survival.

Firstly, Chiuri trees are important for Chepangs because they provide things like butter, timber (wood for building), and fuelwood (for cooking and heating). The Chepangs take care of these trees, ensuring they thrive. On the other hand, bats play a crucial role in this ecosystem. They help Chiuri trees by pollinating their flowers, which is necessary for the trees to produce more Chiuri fruits.

Besides that, bats are also a part of Chepangs’ diet, serving as a traditional delicacy. It’s like a circle of dependency. Chiuri trees support the Chepangs, Chepangs take care of the trees, and bats contribute to the health of the Chiuri trees while also being a source of food for the Chepangs. This interdependence has likely developed over generations and is deeply rooted in the cultural and ecological practices of the Chepang community.

The Chepangs have a meaningful tradition where they gift a Chiuri tree during their daughter’s marriage, symbolizing their strong connection with the forests and a commitment to conservation. This tradition reflects their view of the Chiuri trees as vital resources, and they care for these trees like they take care of their children. Every part of the Chiuri tree is valuable to them, from its fruit and wood to its leaves and seeds.

They use the leaves ingeniously, turning them into makeshift bowls and plates. The forest of Chiuri trees also creates a suitable environment for beekeeping, leading to honey production that contributes to their income diversification.

However, in the present, the bats are gone, and the Chiuri trees are disappearing. This loss leaves many Chepangs without the support system of Chiuri and Chamero. Now, the question arises, how are the 84,366 Chepangs across 26 districts (as per the 2021 Nepal census) surviving without these essential elements?

My first experience with Chepangs is not one I can glorify. On a chilly January morning, a half-naked man was fishing in the Trishuli River, near Sital Bazar in Malekhu. I inquired about him, and the answer was ‘poor little Chepang.’ After finishing my SLC exam, I was ordered to go to Sital Bazar of Dhading to develop some property, which later became our home. I have interacted with many Chepangs, poor and malnourished, who were exploited by the ‘civilized’ Sahujis of the ‘developed’ area. I have a huge sympathy for them not only because many Chepang men and women have helped my mother survive in Sital Bazar but also because I feel that they were and still are cheated by the ‘civilized’ Sahujis and the system.

Chepangs were originally nomads and, with no knowledge of the land registration system, were forced to become landless farmers or slash-and-burn farmers. Their original land in the Mahabharat sub-Himalayan belt is now either with the government or inside protected areas or community forests.

Tagging the Chepang people only with Chamero and Chiuri is not fair to their vast knowledge of the forest. They have depended enormously on forest resources for food, fodder, fiber, medicine, housing, and various other needs. A close look into the traditional food culture of Chepang communities shows that wild edible and underutilized plant species play a special and important role in their food security. Further, it shows their enormous dependency on rich natural resources, especially forests.

One noteworthy work I have seen about Chepang knowledge is ‘Chepang Food Culture: Contribution of Wild Edible and Neglected Plant Species’ by Prakash Limbu and Keshab Thapa of LI-BIRD. In that 12-year-old book, the writers describe their relationship with some 30 natural resources.

In one chapter, they describe the use of Bharlang (Intoxicating yam-Dioscorea hispida Dennst) as follows: Though the tubers are poisonous, they are used as vegetables after detoxification of the poisonous chemicals during food deficit times. The rind of the tuber is removed, cut into thin slices, and then boiled for one or two hours, changing the water three to four times. Then, they are kept for about 20-24 hours in a flowing stream to remove the poisonous chemicals.

The writers Prakash Limbu and Keshab Thapa further say that before consumption, a slice is tasted by an expert, and then they are consumed as a staple food or made into vegetables. Due to the poisonous effects, these tubers are mostly used for preparing the local alcoholic drink. The process shows their hardships.

So, we must stop romanticizing their hard life. Instead, we need to document their knowledge and make it intersect with ‘scientific’ knowledge. The federal, provincial, and municipal authorities need to invest in practical and business-oriented knowledge so that the future of Chepang children is good and secure. Romanticizing their hardships will lead to further marginalization of the Chepang people and their knowledge.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Pipala: Our special spice

Back when I was a student, I used to explore my mother’s kitchen boxes looking for something, even though I wasn’t sure what exactly. This searching habit would take over when my mother wasn’t around. One day, I opened a case carefully wrapped in cloth, and the wonderful smell immediately hit my nose and mind. It turned out to be Garam Masala. In those days, these spices were rare, but my father, who was an Indian Gurkha Soldier, probably brought them home.

The small container was filled with cinnamon, bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, mace (javitri), peppercorns, black cardamom (alachi), nutmeg (jayphal), and lots of Pipala – the Piper Longum. I never asked why there was more Pipala than other spices. Many years later, I realized that it was our own product and was freely available near the river stream next to our home. This spice is what makes our Garam Masala different from others in the Indian Subcontinent. We can compare Pipala to Timur (Sichuan pepper), which helps it stand out and represent Nepali cuisine in the culinary world.

Embarking on a journey through history, culture, and delicious flavors, Long Pepper, or Pipala, emerges as a hero among spices, tracing its roots to the heart of our culture. The cone-shaped pepper is like a hidden gem, connecting tales from ancient Ayurvedic traditions to Mediterranean opulence and medieval European kitchens.

Long pepper, known for its medicinal benefits in Ayurveda, has made a strong comeback in modern kitchens. This spice goes beyond just cooking; ancient texts highlight its role in improving health, desire, and vitality. From Ayurvedic remedies to aiding sleep and acting as a stimulant, long pepper adds an interesting layer to its culinary and medicinal significance.

Moving westward, Romans loved long pepper even more than black pepper. In ancient Rome, it was prestigious, commanding double the price of black pepper. The complexities of distinguishing between these peppers intrigued scholars like Pliny, emphasizing the mystery surrounding this spice. Throughout the medieval era, long pepper remained popular, with people even using it as currency and esteemed chefs listing it as an essential spice.

However, trade winds changed during the 15th and 16th centuries, favoring the accessibility of black pepper through sea routes. This flooded European markets and cast a shadow over long pepper. Forgotten for a while, long pepper recently reemerged.

In the modern culinary scene, Long Pepper is making a comeback, captivating chefs and spice enthusiasts alike. Dubbed the ‘forgotten spice,’ the unique flavor, reminiscent of Garam Masala, adds a special touch to dishes. With its inch-long cone structure and a blend of heat, musk, and sweetness, Long Pepper offers a sensory journey similar to an accordion playing out exotic flavors.

Nepal’s hilly and subtropical regions are where long pepper is cultivated. Flourishing in well-drained soils and thriving in slightly warm climates, this perennial climber often finds support in trees or other structures. The cultivation process, mainly organic, utilizes natural soil fertility, occasionally supplemented by cow dung as fertilizer. Harvesting long pepper spikes, the flowering parts of the plant, happens when they retain their green, pungent essence. Sun-drying these spikes until they achieve a distinctive grayish hue is crucial to the process.

The yield of long pepper in Nepal increases over time, with a substantial harvest following the plant’s third year. To maintain productivity, farmers periodically replace older vines. The economic and medicinal importance of long pepper in Nepal is significant. Serving as a financial safety net, its ability to be stored for extended periods post-drying allows farmers to sell it gradually, supplementing their income as needed. In traditional medicine, the roots and thicker stem parts are essential components in Ayurvedic and traditional healing systems.

In Nepali cuisine, long pepper fruits add a pungent flavor to dishes and contribute to pickles, preserves, and the revered Nepali Garam Masala. Medicinally, this spice is a go-to remedy for respiratory ailments such as cough, bronchitis, and asthma. Its peppery taste induces salivation and oral numbness, also serving as a counter-irritant and analgesic for muscular pains and inflammation.

Moreover, long pepper has diverse medicinal applications in Nepal, acting as a sedative, general tonic, hematinic, cholagogue, emmenagogue, anthelmintic, and addressing maladies like dysentery and leprosy.

To wrap it up, I want to share a quote from someone who commented anonymously on an article about Pipala: “I realized that we Nepali are like Kasturi (Deer musk), running around in search of prosperity. Even though valuable products like Pipala are abundant in the hills of Nepal, we are still facing challenges globally. I was hoping this article would guide me on how to connect Pipala to the market.” I completely agree with this line of thought. The issue is connecting the market to the people who harvest Pipala.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

 

The roots of Aaitha Mari and Khurma

While exploring the streets of Istanbul, Turkey, I stumbled upon a charming sweetshop. Intrigued, I gestured towards one of the displayed sweets and placed an order. The friendly shopkeeper handed it to me with a big smile. Upon taking the first bite, a familiar taste reminiscent of my home country brought a smile to my face.

Later, I discovered that the sweet was Sekerpare (sheh-kehr-PAH-rih), a pastry that evoked the flavors of our own Aaitha (Lha) Mari, and Khurma Roti. So, what’s the connection between Turkish Sekerpare and Nepali Aaitha Mari? Sekerpare came to Turkey from Iran, where it is known as Shekarbura. The Persian words ‘shekar’ means sugar and ‘bura’ means to carve, cut, or split. In India, it’s called Shakharpara, with Northern India naming it Khurma, the same sweet made in our country during the Tihar festival.

The term ‘khurma’ translates to dates in Persian, indicating its Persian roots. Dates are a common ingredient in Northern Indian Khurma, providing a subtle sweetness and a soft texture to this delicacy. Over time, Khurma made its way into the kitchens of various Indian regions, each contributing its regional flavors and techniques to this beloved treat.

The basic ingredients for making Khurma include all-purpose flour, semolina, ghee, sugar, and various aromatic spices. These elements come together to create a deep-fried, pastry-like sweet, characterized by its crispy yet melt-in-your-mouth texture.

While the basic recipe remains consistent across India, variations of Khurma can be found in different states. In Rajasthan, for instance, a variation called Rajasthani Shakarpara incorporates the use of milk along with traditional ingredients, giving it a softer texture and appealing to those who prefer a chewier treat.

In South India, Khurma is often referred to as ‘Nei Urundai’ or Ghee Balls. Here, the sweet is prepared by rolling small portions of dough into round shapes, which are then coated with powdered sugar or coconut flakes. These bite-sized delights are perfect for festive occasions and are often enjoyed with a cup of aromatic filter coffee.

As Khurma entered Nepal, it took two separate paths. One followed the North Indian tradition, leading to the creation of Khurma Roti. The other path involved more experimentation with Shakarpara, resulting in the development of Aaitha Mari. The basic ingredients were changed, and an artistic touch was added, giving rise to Lakhamari.

Lakhamari is associated with marriages in the Newar community. In Kathmandu, Newars replace all-purpose flour with rice and lentil flour. Lakhamari is prepared by molding the mixture into various shapes and frying them in ghee or oil. After frying, they are immersed in chasni (sugar syrup) until ready.

The process begins with soaking rice and lentils throughout the day, usually left to soak overnight. The next day, the mixture is ground into a paste to make dough. Mixing water and ghee, the dough is kneaded well. Once it becomes soft, small balls are made and wrapped in cloth pieces. Following this, the Lakhamari dough is shaped in a pan and cooked.

During various festive occasions of Newars, 84 types of bread are prepared, with Lakhamari holding special significance. It serves as a symbol given by the boy’s side to confirm the completion of the marriage to the girl’s side.

The allure of Lakhamari extends beyond its flavors. Its presence in significant life events, especially marriage ceremonies, signifies reverence. It’s showcased prominently as part of the groom’s gifts to the bride’s family, known as ‘sagun.’ The name Lakhamari epitomizes its central role, prominently displayed alongside other ceremonial items, marking its integral place in Nepali traditions.

This revered sweet, with its extended shelf life of three to four months in sealed packets, holds immense export potential for the Nepali diaspora. Its popularity within the Nepali community worldwide provides an opportunity to introduce and showcase Nepali culinary heritage on a global stage. The rising global demand for authentic ethnic foods creates a favorable climate for Lakhamari’s integration into international markets.

The Nepali diaspora can serve as ambassadors for Lakhamari, championing its authenticity and cultural significance. Collaborating with local distributors, employing innovative packaging for prolonged freshness, and strategic marketing emphasizing its rich heritage could facilitate successful export endeavors. Additionally, diversifying flavors and shapes to cater to varied tastes while preserving its essence could broaden its appeal among international audiences.

My experience of treating myself to these delicious snacks, especially Lakhamari, which served as my all-day bites, highlights the enduring connection between food and cherished memories. Food possesses a remarkable ability to evoke emotions and transport us back to moments filled with joy and contentment, reminding us of special times in our lives.

Even after all these years, the flavors and experiences associated with Lakhamari and the meals from Lakhamari Chhen at Sorha Khutte, Kathmandu, remain a nostalgic and treasured part of my past, symbolizing not just a culinary delight but a portal to cherished memories from my college days.The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Chuk Amilo: The treasure of Nepali kitchen

Did you know that in Newari culture, there’s a special day dedicated to enjoying citrus fruits? Kartik Shukla Navami, the ninth day of the bright Kartik month, is considered auspicious and is known as ‘akshay’ or ‘kushmand navami’. In Kathmandu, the Newars celebrate this day, called ‘jwa’ or ‘juga naami’, by indulging in various citrus fruits and dishes made from them.

Each food or fruit has deep roots in Nepali culture. Our ancestors, for sustainability, invented various methods, and one such method is making ‘chuk amilo’, allowing us to enjoy a tangy or acidic flavor all year round.

Food preservation has been an integral part of human civilization for thousands of years, playing a crucial role in ensuring food availability during scarcity and preserving culinary traditions for future generations. In the picturesque hilly mountain regions of Nepal, chuk amilo, a molasse-like extract derived from the nibuwa fruit, has been cherished for generations, preserving not only the essence of the fruit but also the rich heritage of Nepalis culture.

The concept of food preservation has been a constant companion to human beings in their quest for survival. From early civilizations to modern times, people have developed various techniques to store and extend the shelf life of perishable foods, ensuring sustenance during challenging times and allowing communities to relish the tastes and traditions of their ancestors.

Food preservation techniques vary across regions and cultures, with each method making a unique contribution to the culinary world. Some common methods include drying, salting, smoking, canning, pickling, fermenting, and the use of preservatives, chosen based on available resources, local ingredients, and culinary traditions.

Chuk amilo stands as a shining example of food preservation in Nepal. The nibuwa fruit, also known as Nepali lemon, thrives in the fertile soils of Nepal’s mountains, particularly between October and April. To create chuk amilo, the juice is extracted and cooked slowly, resulting in a dark, aromatic, and pungent substance that captures the essence of the nibuwa fruit.

The Nibuwa fruit is remarkable not only for its impressive size but also for its distinctive sour flavor, making it an essential part of Nepali kitchen cabinets. The scarcity of ghee, chuk amilo, and khudo in a household’s kitchen can impact the ability to prepare traditional Nepali dishes.

Food holds a special place in many cultures and running low on essential ingredients can impact overall well-being. The preservation of chuk amilo carries the magic of tradition and cultural significance. Beyond its delightful taste, chuk amilo offers a range of medicinal properties, aiding digestion, reducing swelling, and alleviating pain associated with urinary problems, kidney stones, and toothaches. Traditional remedies passed down through generations attest to its healing qualities.

In Nepali culture, chuk amilo is celebrated not only for its medicinal properties but also for its nostalgic value. It is often associated with cherished memories of mothers and grandmothers skillfully using this culinary treasure in their recipes, symbolizing the warmth of family kitchens and the love poured into every dish. Chuk amilo is known to alleviate pain from fractured bones and even soothe the effects of a night of indulgence, making it a versatile and beloved ingredient.

Chuk amilo is more than just an ingredient, it embodies the essence of Nepali culture and traditions. Passed down through generations, its unique preparation and preservation methods have become an integral part of Nepali culinary heritage. The slow cooking process and the use of high-quality lemons continue to uphold this valuable tradition, allowing it to be enjoyed throughout the year.

Food preservation, in general, is a way of preserving culinary traditions and flavors, ensuring they are passed down from one generation to the next. It honors the knowledge and skills of ancestors and maintains a connection to cultural roots. 

As we savor the tangy flavor and bask in the healing properties of chuk amilo, it connects us with nature's abundance and the remarkable wisdom of our ancestors. Its versatility in enhancing flavors and providing medicinal benefits makes it an indispensable part of Nepali cuisine. Chuk amilo is a testament to the rich biodiversity of Nepal’s hilly mountain regions and the sustainable practices passed down through generations.

Chuk amilo is not just a culinary delight; it is a treasure that binds us to our roots, memories, and the legacy of a proud nation. Every drop of this precious molasse carries the essence of Nepal’s hilly mountain regions and the love of those who have preserved its traditions. As we experience the magic of chuk amilo in our Nepali pickles (achar) or find relief from an ailment, let it be a reminder of the rich heritage we carry and the love of our mothers who made our kitchens come alive with this special ingredient.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Tapari: Sal leaf plates for a sustainable future

Salako Pata Tapari Gasera

Bheta Bho Maya

Jama Dada Katera

This beautiful song by Uma Ghale Gurung is a childhood memory. The song roughly translates to “while stitching leaves of the Shorea robusta (sal tree), I met my love… let’s go cross the hills (with the lover).

The song echoes in my mind every time I touch the tapari. Living in the UK, you might think I’m romanticizing tapari and sal leaves, but I use tapari more than most Nepalis in Kathmandu. It’s available in the market in the UK and it’s getting popular.

A UK-based company with partners in Nepal and India is marketing sal leaves (‘sal ko tapari’) in the UK. Tapari Limited, established in 2017, states that the production of tapari products takes place in Nepal where the collection of leaves and work in the factory provide employment to women in poor villages with no other work opportunities. Production of tapari supports more than 1,000 families in the region.

Traditionally, tapari is made by stitching several leaves of the Shorea robusta (sal tree) together with fine bamboo sticks. It has the highest potential for replacing non-degradable plastic plates, thereby helping to mitigate plastic pollution. These days it is made by machine. Sal leaves plates are often referred to as tapari if it is big, medium-sized leaves plates are called bota, and smaller size leaves plates are called duna.

They are mostly made from sal leaves but in Pokhara they are also made from Hazelnut tree leaves. Sal leaves have long been an integral part of Hindu mythology, Nepali culture, and Ayurvedic tradition. Beyond their cultural significance, sal leaves have a plethora of benefits ranging from health to environmental sustainability, making them an invaluable resource with export potential to Europe, America, and the Western world.

Sal leaves are a sustainable alternative to plastic and Styrofoam disposable plates. Unlike single-use plastics that contribute to pollution and take centuries to decompose, sal leaves are biodegradable and easily compostable. Choosing sal leaf plates helps reduce the carbon footprint associated with plastic production and disposal.

Sal trees are abundant in Nepal and neighboring regions. Harvesting sal leaves doesn’t harm the tree as they are naturally shed, making it a renewable resource. This sustainable practice can help conserve forests and promote biodiversity.

The production of sal leaf plates involves minimal processing and energy use, resulting in a significantly lower carbon footprint compared to plastic or paper plate manufacturing. This eco-friendly approach aligns with global efforts to combat climate change.

Sal leaves have been cherished in Ayurveda for their therapeutic properties. They are known for their antibacterial, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant qualities. Sal leaf-based remedies are used to treat a wide range of health issues, from wounds and burns to skin disorders and digestive problems.

Sal leaf plates are chemical-free and don’t leach harmful substances into food, unlike some plastic and foam alternatives. This makes them a healthier choice for serving food, particularly in eco-conscious regions like Europe and America.

With growing global awareness of environmental issues and a shift toward sustainable living, the demand for eco-friendly products is on the rise. Sal leaf plates align perfectly with this trend.

Sal leaf plates also offer a touch of authentic Nepali culture and tradition. They can be marketed as unique, handcrafted items that bring a piece of Nepal to foreign shores, appealing to those interested in global cuisines and traditions.

As countries around the world implement stricter regulations on single-use plastics, sal leaf plates provide an alternative that is not only sustainable but also compliant with emerging environmental standards.

In the pursuit of harnessing the potential of sal leaves as a sustainable solution, it’s crucial to emphasize responsible harvesting practices. Sustainable collection methods, such as selectively plucking naturally fallen leaves, can ensure the continued health of sal trees and local ecosystems.

Collaborative efforts between local communities, governments, and environmental organizations can help implement sustainable management practices. Initiatives to protect sal forests and promote reforestation can safeguard these valuable resources for future generations.

Encouraging local communities to engage in sal leaf collection and processing can provide economic opportunities. By establishing fair trade practices and supporting small-scale artisans, Nepal can ensure that the benefits of sal leaf exports are distributed equitably.

Raising awareness about the environmental and cultural significance of sal leaves can garner support both locally and internationally. Educational programs can inform consumers about the benefits of choosing sal leaf products, driving demand, and supporting sustainable practices.

The power of sal leaves extends far beyond their cultural and medicinal significance. Through sustainable harvesting, innovative marketing, and a commitment to environmental responsibility, Nepal can not only export Sal leaf products to the Western world but also contribute to a global shift towards a more sustainable and eco-conscious future.

Sal leaves, deeply rooted in Nepali culture and Ayurvedic traditions, offer a sustainable solution to the environmental challenges posed by plastic waste. With their natural health benefits and minimal carbon footprint, sal leaf plates have the potential to make a positive impact on global efforts to combat climate change and promote eco-friendly living.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Bhutan: A cultural symbol in Nepal

“Oh, what a strange smell,” said a friend’s son when he entered the kitchen as we were cooking a Nepali delicacy called ‘bhutan’. This is a ‘weird food’ for the new generation. That is perhaps why he told us that it smelled horrible.

I wanted to shout back and say that of course, it should stink like shit because these intestines were carrying shit a few hours ago when the goat was alive. But I have to be nice, given that he is years younger than I am, and so I just tell him that it was one of our many traditional food items.

I intended to bridge the gap between him and our traditional culinary heritage. I’ve often pondered why many Nepalis have developed a preference for junk food over our traditional dishes.

Cultures across the globe have long recognized the nutritional value of organ meats as a source of protein. They feature prominently in traditional cuisines across Asia, Africa, Europe, and various parts of the Americas. Recipes are abundant for preparing tripe, spanning the world’s culinary diversity. It’s typically found in dishes like soups, stews, sauced foods, and sausages. Due to its distinct aroma and mild flavor, tripe is usually paired with bold spices and flavorful ingredients.

Before delving into the specifics of this Nepali delicacy, it’s essential to issue a fair warning about bhutan’s smell, taste, and texture. It can be off-putting to some, especially if it’s not prepared correctly. Additionally, bhutan is high in cholesterol, so it might not be the best choice for individuals with a sensitivity to high-cholesterol foods.

Each family in Nepal has its unique recipe and name for bhutan. In the far-west part of the country, people call it ‘bhutuwa’, and some refer to it as ‘bhitryas’. Some use the thymus gland, pancreas, tripe, and intestines, while others incorporate the liver, tongue, heart, kidneys, lungs, and even brain. Some even include blood.

However, bhutan traditionally consists of the blanket or flat tripe from the first stomach chamber of the animal, honeycomb tripe, which originates from the second stomach chamber and resembles a honeycomb, omasum or book tripe from the third stomach chamber, and abomasum or reed tripe from the fourth stomach chamber.

Bhutan is a labor of love, demanding meticulous preparation. The process begins with boiling these offal parts to perfection, along with a blend of whole garam masala. Another secret to mitigating that infamous smell is to add a few sprigs of rosemary. This initial step tenderizes the ingredients and lays the foundation for the mouthwatering flavors that follow.

The next stage involves stir-frying the boiled offal in a traditional Nepali kadhai, or wok, using mustard oil. This method infuses a delightful nutty aroma and a touch of heat and spiciness into the dish. Onions and red chili powder are added to intensify the flavors, creating a tantalizing mix of aromas that waft through the air.

What sets bhutan apart is its unique combination of ingredients and spices. Besides the offal and goat tripe, a host of elements contribute to the dish's rich and savory taste. There is the garam masala, a blend of spices that imparts warmth and depth. Cumin offers earthy and slightly nutty notes. Turmeric adds a vibrant color and mild, bitter undertones. Cinnamon brings a sweet and warm essence. Mustard oil infuses a distinct, pungent flavor.

There’s more. Fenugreek contributes a hint of bitterness and complexity. Cloves provide a sweet and aromatic touch. Scallions offer a fresh and mild onion-y flavor. Garlic and ginger enhance the overall taste with their pungency. Chili peppers introduce a touch of heat and texture—a feature I’ve enjoyed in my tried and tested recipes at my restaurant, Momo & Roti. And then there are salt and black pepper which are used to season the dish to perfection.

Bhutan serves as a cultural symbol in Nepal, holding a special place in the hearts and palates of Nepali people. This delicacy is especially cherished during the Dashain festival, a 15-day autumn celebration that pays homage to the goddess Durga and involves numerous animal sacrifices. It’s during this festive period that bhutan graces the tables of Nepali households, symbolizing the abundance and joy of the season.

Furthermore, bhutan is a preferred accompaniment for alcoholic beverages and soft drinks. Its spicy and savory notes complement the flavors of these drinks, making it a quintessential Nepali drinking snack. We often enjoy bhutan with chiura, beaten rice.

So, if you ever have the chance to savor this flavorful delicacy, don’t miss out on the opportunity to delve into the vibrant and aromatic world of bhutan. Besides being a valuable source of protein, bhutan is also loaded with essential nutrients. Scientists have found that it may be a beneficial addition to a healthy diet, as long as it’s consumed in moderation. 

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

The humble Nepali chowmein

“Whenever Nepalis go out to eat at a restaurant, they go through the entire menu for 15 to 20 minutes and then order either momo or chowmein,” is a famous Nepali saying that encapsulates Nepalis’ dining out experience. This saying underlines the popularity of chowmein, standing proudly as the second most loved dish in Nepal. You can find the raw noodles, neatly packed in plastic bags, at the vegetable stalls in the bustling Kathmandu market, adding a touch of authenticity to the local food experience.

Beyond the common stir-fried noodles, Nepal offers a delightful twist to the chowmein saga with the renowned chowmein soup, known as thukpa. In the town of Dharan, situated in the east, thukpa is even a breakfast delight. It’s a hot and tangy noodle soup that helps you kickstart your day with a burst of energy.

The origin of chowmein in Nepal is a tale of cultural exchange and migration, where influences from Chinese, Tibetan, and Nepali culinary traditions come together. The term ‘chǎo-miàn,’ meaning ‘stir-fried noodles’ in Chinese, dates back to over 4000 years. However, it wasn’t until the 1960s, with the arrival of Tibetan refugees, that chowmein found its way into the hearts and taste buds of Nepalis.

The Tibetan diaspora not only brought momo and thukpa but also ignited a culture of street food and small eateries across Nepal. The infusion of Chinese sauces, including green chili, chili garlic, and hot garlic from Calcutta, added a local twist to the flavor palette. The culinary landscape of Nepal further evolved with the return of the Nepali diaspora from the United States and the Burmese Nepalis, who contributed their noodle variations to the mix.

Before chowmein took center stage, Nepal had a tradition of noodle soup influenced by Tibetan culinary practices. However, the 1980s saw the emergence of instant noodles and dried egg noodles, solidifying chowmein’s status as an integral part of Nepali street food culture.

The noodle narrative expands beyond Nepal’s borders, seamlessly blending into India’s culinary heritage. Northern India’s introduction to noodles, through ‘sevai’ or vermicelli, traces back to trade along the Silk Route with Persia and Arabia. Chowmein, with its humble beginnings and inspiration from Hakka-style stir-fried noodles, embodies resourcefulness and adaptability.

Today, chowmein stands as a symbol of cross-cultural fusion, reflecting Nepal’s history of migration, trade, and shared culinary legacies. From bustling cities to remote villages, the presence of chowmein on menus across the country symbolizes the integration of diverse flavors, celebrating the harmonious blending of traditions into a beloved culinary delight for both Nepalis and visitors.

Following are a few variations of the versatile chowmein:

The stir-fried edition

Variations such as chow mein, Shanghai fried style, and Singaporean style are essentially Chinese in nature. Stir-fried with an extra kick of spices is particularly popular in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, and Burma, featuring diverse styles like Ribbon noodles, Pad Thai, Khao Swe, and Yakisoba.

Keema noodles

This is the new hit in town. The ingredients are boiled noodles, bok choy, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, chili oil, spring onions, salt, minced meat (keema), and onions. First, let’s make the chili oil/sauce. In a bowl, combine chili flakes, crushed Sichuan pepper, and salt. Heat mustard oil, and then pour the hot oil into the chili flakes mixture.

Next, let’s prepare the minced meat. Heat oil in a pan and add onions, ginger, and chopped garlic. Once the onions are see-through, add minced meat and tomatoes. Stir-fry continuously until the meat changes color. Add spices, salt, and soy sauce. Mix everything well and cook until the water evaporates.

Now, boil water for the noodles. Add a little oil and salt to the boiling water. Boil Chinese egg noodles, and when they’re done, add bok choy. Finally, mix all the prepared items and serve.

Soup it up

Thukpa in Tibet and Nepal offers a spice-infused broth with meat and vegetables, flavored with Sichuan pepper.

China and Hong Kong present various dumplings, roast duck, and fish balls with egg noodles soup. Japan has miso, while Vietnam boasts pho.

Noteworthy mentions include the tom yum soup noodles from Thailand and curry laksa from Malaysia.

Noodles glazed with sauces

This style involves stir-frying noodles and finishing them with rich sauces, meats, vegetables, and fish.

Indo-Chinese versions like Hakka, garlic chili noodles, and Ma Yi Shang Shu (Ant Climbing a Tree) from China, along with curry udon from Japan, Mie Ayam from Indonesia, and kimchi from Korea showcase a diverse array of flavors.

Special ingredients and flavors vary by region, with Nepalis incorporating Sichuan peppers, Malaysians adding lemongrass, curry leaves, and lime leaves, and Vietnamese using cardamom, mint, and coriander.

Noodles with salad

The fundamental noodle remains constant, with variations in the type of noodles used and the serving temperature, whether hot or cold.

Examples include the refreshing ramen salad from Japan and the spicy Noodle Salad Yum Woon Sen from Thailand.

Noodles as stuffing or wrapping

Noodles find versatile uses, serving as stuffing in Vietnamese-style spring rolls or Japanese-style omelets. Notable Nepali mentions include the colorful and deep-fried homemade snack jhilinga, a staple at festivals, weddings, and special ceremonies. Additionally, the Indian subcontinent boasts sevai dessert, especially popular among Muslim communities, along with sev, a spicy savory snack, and the well-known Anglo snack, Bombay mix.

The story of Nepali chowmein is a captivating journey through time and culture, showcasing the resilience of Nepali culinary traditions in the face of evolving influences. From its modest beginnings to its current status as a culinary icon, chowmein is a testament to Nepal’s ability to embrace and transform its rich gastronomic heritage.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

A season of Nepali sweets

Tihar is here. Diwali, Dipawali, or Tihar—this is the festival of fruits and sweets. Dashain was for meat lovers, but Tihar is turning into a purely vegetarian festival. And whenever we discuss celebrating Tihar in the Nepali community, people often ask, “Where are the Nepali mithais (sweets)?”

What are Nepali mithais? Is selroti actually a sweet item? Can we use it as a dessert? Personally, I don’t think selroti is a mithai. It’s a unique Nepali item, a celebration of Nepaliness. This is my opinion. You might feel differently. But the question remains, what are Nepali sweets?

I can provide a list of mouth-watering sweets available in the Nepali market: jeri, swari, halwa, lakhamari, lalmohan, anarasa, pustakari, gudpak, rasbari, laddu, barfi, peda, dudhbari, rasmalai, khoya badam, and rajbhog. And this is, by no means, an exhaustive list either.

Jeri, swari, halwa, lakhamari, anarasa, and lalmohan were the traditional Nepali sweets that used to be served by middle-class families to the Royal Palace of Kathmandu. However, the popularity of these traditional sweets has declined, and new kinds of sweets have taken over. You can find every sweet, from Indian to Turkish, in the luxury market of Kathmandu Valley, but do they carry the spirit of our festival?

Nepali Mithai is the delectable sweet treat that graces the tables of Nepali households. These desserts, deeply rooted in the country’s cultural and geographical diversity, offer a unique and delightful experience for your taste buds. Nepali Mithai comes in a variety of forms, each with its regional influences and distinct ingredients. These sweet delights are a true testament to the rich tapestry of Nepal’s culinary heritage.

Most Nepalis think that Nepali sweets are slowly losing their appeal, thanks to the infiltration of all the Indian sweets in the market. But I don’t believe in the geographical boundaries of culinary art. The food we now enjoy has likely reached our culture after traveling a long journey. For example, Anarasa, the most popular traditional Nepali sweet of the Tihar festival, has Indian roots. In India, it’s called anarsa or hilsa and is a rice-based biscuit. It’s also commonly associated with the Hindu festival of Diwali in Maharashtra and Bihar. Its ingredients include jaggery, rice, poppy seed, and ghee in India.

Then, if you claim that traditional Nepali sweets are dying, then what have you done to preserve them? The majority of Nepalis (including the Nepali diaspora) love to blame others for doing nothing, especially the government of Nepal and political parties. But if you want to preserve your culture, you have to do it. Miss Nepal 2019 Anushka Shrestha is doing her bit to preserve and popularize Nepali sweets through her brand Makkusé. Makkusé is redefining Nepali desserts by producing a selection of pustakari, gudpak, and cookies.

But now, let’s get back to the Tihar festival. Your favorite traditional sweet could be the anarasa or lakhamari or the versatile peda but mine is simple kurauni and kheer. One of the most beloved and universal Nepali sweets is kurauni. This sweet, condensed milk delight embodies the essence of Nepali childhood. It’s made by simmering milk until it reduces and thickens, resulting in a creamy, sweet concoction. The slow reduction process creates a unique depth of flavor, and it’s often garnished with crushed nuts and spices for an extra layer of richness. Kurauni is not just a dessert. It’s a trip down memory lane, a taste of innocence, and a reminder of the simplicity of life in Nepal.

Kheer, which is rice pudding, is another timeless Nepali dessert. It’s simple, yet it never fails to delight. A creamy mixture of rice, milk, and sugar, kheer is seasoned with cardamom and garnished with dried fruits and nuts. This dish embodies the essence of comfort food and is often prepared on special occasions and festivals, bringing families together over its sweet and heartwarming flavors.

Nepali mithai isn’t limited to these classics. The diversity of Nepal’s landscapes has given rise to a plethora of regional delicacies. The northern regions, influenced by Tibet, often feature rice flour and wheat flour-based sweets. These include the delicious khudo, a treat made from sugarcane molasses, and various Tibetan-inspired dumplings, which are both hearty and sweet.

In the Madhes region of Nepal, the sweets draw inspiration from neighboring India, featuring sugary, milk-based delights like sandesh (kalakanda), rasgulla, and gulab jamun. These treats are a testament to the cultural exchange that occurs across Nepal’s borders.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Nepali mithai is their natural, chemical-free preparation. The desserts have traditionally been made without the use of preservatives or additives. Instead, they rely on natural ingredients such as ghee (clarified butter), milk, and locally sourced flavors. This makes them delicious and a healthier option in a world inundated with processed sweets.

It’s essential to bring Nepali Mithai into the limelight. These delectable treats deserve recognition for their unique flavors, cultural significance, and the love and care that goes into making them. Let’s celebrate the sweetness of Nepal, share these delightful treats with the world, and ensure that the tradition of Nepali mithai continues to flourish. Let’s savor these natural, clean, and rich sweets that are a testament to the beauty of the Himalayan nation’s culinary heritage.

The author is a London-based Nepali R&D chef