Tapari: Sal leaf plates for a sustainable future
Salako Pata Tapari Gasera
Bheta Bho Maya
Jama Dada Katera
This beautiful song by Uma Ghale Gurung is a childhood memory. The song roughly translates to “while stitching leaves of the Shorea robusta (sal tree), I met my love… let’s go cross the hills (with the lover).
The song echoes in my mind every time I touch the tapari. Living in the UK, you might think I’m romanticizing tapari and sal leaves, but I use tapari more than most Nepalis in Kathmandu. It’s available in the market in the UK and it’s getting popular.
A UK-based company with partners in Nepal and India is marketing sal leaves (‘sal ko tapari’) in the UK. Tapari Limited, established in 2017, states that the production of tapari products takes place in Nepal where the collection of leaves and work in the factory provide employment to women in poor villages with no other work opportunities. Production of tapari supports more than 1,000 families in the region.
Traditionally, tapari is made by stitching several leaves of the Shorea robusta (sal tree) together with fine bamboo sticks. It has the highest potential for replacing non-degradable plastic plates, thereby helping to mitigate plastic pollution. These days it is made by machine. Sal leaves plates are often referred to as tapari if it is big, medium-sized leaves plates are called bota, and smaller size leaves plates are called duna.
They are mostly made from sal leaves but in Pokhara they are also made from Hazelnut tree leaves. Sal leaves have long been an integral part of Hindu mythology, Nepali culture, and Ayurvedic tradition. Beyond their cultural significance, sal leaves have a plethora of benefits ranging from health to environmental sustainability, making them an invaluable resource with export potential to Europe, America, and the Western world.
Sal leaves are a sustainable alternative to plastic and Styrofoam disposable plates. Unlike single-use plastics that contribute to pollution and take centuries to decompose, sal leaves are biodegradable and easily compostable. Choosing sal leaf plates helps reduce the carbon footprint associated with plastic production and disposal.
Sal trees are abundant in Nepal and neighboring regions. Harvesting sal leaves doesn’t harm the tree as they are naturally shed, making it a renewable resource. This sustainable practice can help conserve forests and promote biodiversity.
The production of sal leaf plates involves minimal processing and energy use, resulting in a significantly lower carbon footprint compared to plastic or paper plate manufacturing. This eco-friendly approach aligns with global efforts to combat climate change.
Sal leaves have been cherished in Ayurveda for their therapeutic properties. They are known for their antibacterial, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant qualities. Sal leaf-based remedies are used to treat a wide range of health issues, from wounds and burns to skin disorders and digestive problems.
Sal leaf plates are chemical-free and don’t leach harmful substances into food, unlike some plastic and foam alternatives. This makes them a healthier choice for serving food, particularly in eco-conscious regions like Europe and America.
With growing global awareness of environmental issues and a shift toward sustainable living, the demand for eco-friendly products is on the rise. Sal leaf plates align perfectly with this trend.
Sal leaf plates also offer a touch of authentic Nepali culture and tradition. They can be marketed as unique, handcrafted items that bring a piece of Nepal to foreign shores, appealing to those interested in global cuisines and traditions.
As countries around the world implement stricter regulations on single-use plastics, sal leaf plates provide an alternative that is not only sustainable but also compliant with emerging environmental standards.
In the pursuit of harnessing the potential of sal leaves as a sustainable solution, it’s crucial to emphasize responsible harvesting practices. Sustainable collection methods, such as selectively plucking naturally fallen leaves, can ensure the continued health of sal trees and local ecosystems.
Collaborative efforts between local communities, governments, and environmental organizations can help implement sustainable management practices. Initiatives to protect sal forests and promote reforestation can safeguard these valuable resources for future generations.
Encouraging local communities to engage in sal leaf collection and processing can provide economic opportunities. By establishing fair trade practices and supporting small-scale artisans, Nepal can ensure that the benefits of sal leaf exports are distributed equitably.
Raising awareness about the environmental and cultural significance of sal leaves can garner support both locally and internationally. Educational programs can inform consumers about the benefits of choosing sal leaf products, driving demand, and supporting sustainable practices.
The power of sal leaves extends far beyond their cultural and medicinal significance. Through sustainable harvesting, innovative marketing, and a commitment to environmental responsibility, Nepal can not only export Sal leaf products to the Western world but also contribute to a global shift towards a more sustainable and eco-conscious future.
Sal leaves, deeply rooted in Nepali culture and Ayurvedic traditions, offer a sustainable solution to the environmental challenges posed by plastic waste. With their natural health benefits and minimal carbon footprint, sal leaf plates have the potential to make a positive impact on global efforts to combat climate change and promote eco-friendly living.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Bhutan: A cultural symbol in Nepal
“Oh, what a strange smell,” said a friend’s son when he entered the kitchen as we were cooking a Nepali delicacy called ‘bhutan’. This is a ‘weird food’ for the new generation. That is perhaps why he told us that it smelled horrible.
I wanted to shout back and say that of course, it should stink like shit because these intestines were carrying shit a few hours ago when the goat was alive. But I have to be nice, given that he is years younger than I am, and so I just tell him that it was one of our many traditional food items.
I intended to bridge the gap between him and our traditional culinary heritage. I’ve often pondered why many Nepalis have developed a preference for junk food over our traditional dishes.
Cultures across the globe have long recognized the nutritional value of organ meats as a source of protein. They feature prominently in traditional cuisines across Asia, Africa, Europe, and various parts of the Americas. Recipes are abundant for preparing tripe, spanning the world’s culinary diversity. It’s typically found in dishes like soups, stews, sauced foods, and sausages. Due to its distinct aroma and mild flavor, tripe is usually paired with bold spices and flavorful ingredients.
Before delving into the specifics of this Nepali delicacy, it’s essential to issue a fair warning about bhutan’s smell, taste, and texture. It can be off-putting to some, especially if it’s not prepared correctly. Additionally, bhutan is high in cholesterol, so it might not be the best choice for individuals with a sensitivity to high-cholesterol foods.
Each family in Nepal has its unique recipe and name for bhutan. In the far-west part of the country, people call it ‘bhutuwa’, and some refer to it as ‘bhitryas’. Some use the thymus gland, pancreas, tripe, and intestines, while others incorporate the liver, tongue, heart, kidneys, lungs, and even brain. Some even include blood.
However, bhutan traditionally consists of the blanket or flat tripe from the first stomach chamber of the animal, honeycomb tripe, which originates from the second stomach chamber and resembles a honeycomb, omasum or book tripe from the third stomach chamber, and abomasum or reed tripe from the fourth stomach chamber.
Bhutan is a labor of love, demanding meticulous preparation. The process begins with boiling these offal parts to perfection, along with a blend of whole garam masala. Another secret to mitigating that infamous smell is to add a few sprigs of rosemary. This initial step tenderizes the ingredients and lays the foundation for the mouthwatering flavors that follow.
The next stage involves stir-frying the boiled offal in a traditional Nepali kadhai, or wok, using mustard oil. This method infuses a delightful nutty aroma and a touch of heat and spiciness into the dish. Onions and red chili powder are added to intensify the flavors, creating a tantalizing mix of aromas that waft through the air.
What sets bhutan apart is its unique combination of ingredients and spices. Besides the offal and goat tripe, a host of elements contribute to the dish's rich and savory taste. There is the garam masala, a blend of spices that imparts warmth and depth. Cumin offers earthy and slightly nutty notes. Turmeric adds a vibrant color and mild, bitter undertones. Cinnamon brings a sweet and warm essence. Mustard oil infuses a distinct, pungent flavor.
There’s more. Fenugreek contributes a hint of bitterness and complexity. Cloves provide a sweet and aromatic touch. Scallions offer a fresh and mild onion-y flavor. Garlic and ginger enhance the overall taste with their pungency. Chili peppers introduce a touch of heat and texture—a feature I’ve enjoyed in my tried and tested recipes at my restaurant, Momo & Roti. And then there are salt and black pepper which are used to season the dish to perfection.
Bhutan serves as a cultural symbol in Nepal, holding a special place in the hearts and palates of Nepali people. This delicacy is especially cherished during the Dashain festival, a 15-day autumn celebration that pays homage to the goddess Durga and involves numerous animal sacrifices. It’s during this festive period that bhutan graces the tables of Nepali households, symbolizing the abundance and joy of the season.
Furthermore, bhutan is a preferred accompaniment for alcoholic beverages and soft drinks. Its spicy and savory notes complement the flavors of these drinks, making it a quintessential Nepali drinking snack. We often enjoy bhutan with chiura, beaten rice.
So, if you ever have the chance to savor this flavorful delicacy, don’t miss out on the opportunity to delve into the vibrant and aromatic world of bhutan. Besides being a valuable source of protein, bhutan is also loaded with essential nutrients. Scientists have found that it may be a beneficial addition to a healthy diet, as long as it’s consumed in moderation.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
The humble Nepali chowmein
“Whenever Nepalis go out to eat at a restaurant, they go through the entire menu for 15 to 20 minutes and then order either momo or chowmein,” is a famous Nepali saying that encapsulates Nepalis’ dining out experience. This saying underlines the popularity of chowmein, standing proudly as the second most loved dish in Nepal. You can find the raw noodles, neatly packed in plastic bags, at the vegetable stalls in the bustling Kathmandu market, adding a touch of authenticity to the local food experience.
Beyond the common stir-fried noodles, Nepal offers a delightful twist to the chowmein saga with the renowned chowmein soup, known as thukpa. In the town of Dharan, situated in the east, thukpa is even a breakfast delight. It’s a hot and tangy noodle soup that helps you kickstart your day with a burst of energy.
The origin of chowmein in Nepal is a tale of cultural exchange and migration, where influences from Chinese, Tibetan, and Nepali culinary traditions come together. The term ‘chǎo-miàn,’ meaning ‘stir-fried noodles’ in Chinese, dates back to over 4000 years. However, it wasn’t until the 1960s, with the arrival of Tibetan refugees, that chowmein found its way into the hearts and taste buds of Nepalis.
The Tibetan diaspora not only brought momo and thukpa but also ignited a culture of street food and small eateries across Nepal. The infusion of Chinese sauces, including green chili, chili garlic, and hot garlic from Calcutta, added a local twist to the flavor palette. The culinary landscape of Nepal further evolved with the return of the Nepali diaspora from the United States and the Burmese Nepalis, who contributed their noodle variations to the mix.
Before chowmein took center stage, Nepal had a tradition of noodle soup influenced by Tibetan culinary practices. However, the 1980s saw the emergence of instant noodles and dried egg noodles, solidifying chowmein’s status as an integral part of Nepali street food culture.
The noodle narrative expands beyond Nepal’s borders, seamlessly blending into India’s culinary heritage. Northern India’s introduction to noodles, through ‘sevai’ or vermicelli, traces back to trade along the Silk Route with Persia and Arabia. Chowmein, with its humble beginnings and inspiration from Hakka-style stir-fried noodles, embodies resourcefulness and adaptability.
Today, chowmein stands as a symbol of cross-cultural fusion, reflecting Nepal’s history of migration, trade, and shared culinary legacies. From bustling cities to remote villages, the presence of chowmein on menus across the country symbolizes the integration of diverse flavors, celebrating the harmonious blending of traditions into a beloved culinary delight for both Nepalis and visitors.
Following are a few variations of the versatile chowmein:
The stir-fried edition
Variations such as chow mein, Shanghai fried style, and Singaporean style are essentially Chinese in nature. Stir-fried with an extra kick of spices is particularly popular in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, and Burma, featuring diverse styles like Ribbon noodles, Pad Thai, Khao Swe, and Yakisoba.
Keema noodles
This is the new hit in town. The ingredients are boiled noodles, bok choy, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, chili oil, spring onions, salt, minced meat (keema), and onions. First, let’s make the chili oil/sauce. In a bowl, combine chili flakes, crushed Sichuan pepper, and salt. Heat mustard oil, and then pour the hot oil into the chili flakes mixture.
Next, let’s prepare the minced meat. Heat oil in a pan and add onions, ginger, and chopped garlic. Once the onions are see-through, add minced meat and tomatoes. Stir-fry continuously until the meat changes color. Add spices, salt, and soy sauce. Mix everything well and cook until the water evaporates.
Now, boil water for the noodles. Add a little oil and salt to the boiling water. Boil Chinese egg noodles, and when they’re done, add bok choy. Finally, mix all the prepared items and serve.
Soup it up
Thukpa in Tibet and Nepal offers a spice-infused broth with meat and vegetables, flavored with Sichuan pepper.
China and Hong Kong present various dumplings, roast duck, and fish balls with egg noodles soup. Japan has miso, while Vietnam boasts pho.
Noteworthy mentions include the tom yum soup noodles from Thailand and curry laksa from Malaysia.
Noodles glazed with sauces
This style involves stir-frying noodles and finishing them with rich sauces, meats, vegetables, and fish.
Indo-Chinese versions like Hakka, garlic chili noodles, and Ma Yi Shang Shu (Ant Climbing a Tree) from China, along with curry udon from Japan, Mie Ayam from Indonesia, and kimchi from Korea showcase a diverse array of flavors.
Special ingredients and flavors vary by region, with Nepalis incorporating Sichuan peppers, Malaysians adding lemongrass, curry leaves, and lime leaves, and Vietnamese using cardamom, mint, and coriander.
Noodles with salad
The fundamental noodle remains constant, with variations in the type of noodles used and the serving temperature, whether hot or cold.
Examples include the refreshing ramen salad from Japan and the spicy Noodle Salad Yum Woon Sen from Thailand.
Noodles as stuffing or wrapping
Noodles find versatile uses, serving as stuffing in Vietnamese-style spring rolls or Japanese-style omelets. Notable Nepali mentions include the colorful and deep-fried homemade snack jhilinga, a staple at festivals, weddings, and special ceremonies. Additionally, the Indian subcontinent boasts sevai dessert, especially popular among Muslim communities, along with sev, a spicy savory snack, and the well-known Anglo snack, Bombay mix.
The story of Nepali chowmein is a captivating journey through time and culture, showcasing the resilience of Nepali culinary traditions in the face of evolving influences. From its modest beginnings to its current status as a culinary icon, chowmein is a testament to Nepal’s ability to embrace and transform its rich gastronomic heritage.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
A season of Nepali sweets
Tihar is here. Diwali, Dipawali, or Tihar—this is the festival of fruits and sweets. Dashain was for meat lovers, but Tihar is turning into a purely vegetarian festival. And whenever we discuss celebrating Tihar in the Nepali community, people often ask, “Where are the Nepali mithais (sweets)?”
What are Nepali mithais? Is selroti actually a sweet item? Can we use it as a dessert? Personally, I don’t think selroti is a mithai. It’s a unique Nepali item, a celebration of Nepaliness. This is my opinion. You might feel differently. But the question remains, what are Nepali sweets?
I can provide a list of mouth-watering sweets available in the Nepali market: jeri, swari, halwa, lakhamari, lalmohan, anarasa, pustakari, gudpak, rasbari, laddu, barfi, peda, dudhbari, rasmalai, khoya badam, and rajbhog. And this is, by no means, an exhaustive list either.
Jeri, swari, halwa, lakhamari, anarasa, and lalmohan were the traditional Nepali sweets that used to be served by middle-class families to the Royal Palace of Kathmandu. However, the popularity of these traditional sweets has declined, and new kinds of sweets have taken over. You can find every sweet, from Indian to Turkish, in the luxury market of Kathmandu Valley, but do they carry the spirit of our festival?
Nepali Mithai is the delectable sweet treat that graces the tables of Nepali households. These desserts, deeply rooted in the country’s cultural and geographical diversity, offer a unique and delightful experience for your taste buds. Nepali Mithai comes in a variety of forms, each with its regional influences and distinct ingredients. These sweet delights are a true testament to the rich tapestry of Nepal’s culinary heritage.
Most Nepalis think that Nepali sweets are slowly losing their appeal, thanks to the infiltration of all the Indian sweets in the market. But I don’t believe in the geographical boundaries of culinary art. The food we now enjoy has likely reached our culture after traveling a long journey. For example, Anarasa, the most popular traditional Nepali sweet of the Tihar festival, has Indian roots. In India, it’s called anarsa or hilsa and is a rice-based biscuit. It’s also commonly associated with the Hindu festival of Diwali in Maharashtra and Bihar. Its ingredients include jaggery, rice, poppy seed, and ghee in India.
Then, if you claim that traditional Nepali sweets are dying, then what have you done to preserve them? The majority of Nepalis (including the Nepali diaspora) love to blame others for doing nothing, especially the government of Nepal and political parties. But if you want to preserve your culture, you have to do it. Miss Nepal 2019 Anushka Shrestha is doing her bit to preserve and popularize Nepali sweets through her brand Makkusé. Makkusé is redefining Nepali desserts by producing a selection of pustakari, gudpak, and cookies.
But now, let’s get back to the Tihar festival. Your favorite traditional sweet could be the anarasa or lakhamari or the versatile peda but mine is simple kurauni and kheer. One of the most beloved and universal Nepali sweets is kurauni. This sweet, condensed milk delight embodies the essence of Nepali childhood. It’s made by simmering milk until it reduces and thickens, resulting in a creamy, sweet concoction. The slow reduction process creates a unique depth of flavor, and it’s often garnished with crushed nuts and spices for an extra layer of richness. Kurauni is not just a dessert. It’s a trip down memory lane, a taste of innocence, and a reminder of the simplicity of life in Nepal.
Kheer, which is rice pudding, is another timeless Nepali dessert. It’s simple, yet it never fails to delight. A creamy mixture of rice, milk, and sugar, kheer is seasoned with cardamom and garnished with dried fruits and nuts. This dish embodies the essence of comfort food and is often prepared on special occasions and festivals, bringing families together over its sweet and heartwarming flavors.
Nepali mithai isn’t limited to these classics. The diversity of Nepal’s landscapes has given rise to a plethora of regional delicacies. The northern regions, influenced by Tibet, often feature rice flour and wheat flour-based sweets. These include the delicious khudo, a treat made from sugarcane molasses, and various Tibetan-inspired dumplings, which are both hearty and sweet.
In the Madhes region of Nepal, the sweets draw inspiration from neighboring India, featuring sugary, milk-based delights like sandesh (kalakanda), rasgulla, and gulab jamun. These treats are a testament to the cultural exchange that occurs across Nepal’s borders.
One of the most intriguing aspects of Nepali mithai is their natural, chemical-free preparation. The desserts have traditionally been made without the use of preservatives or additives. Instead, they rely on natural ingredients such as ghee (clarified butter), milk, and locally sourced flavors. This makes them delicious and a healthier option in a world inundated with processed sweets.
It’s essential to bring Nepali Mithai into the limelight. These delectable treats deserve recognition for their unique flavors, cultural significance, and the love and care that goes into making them. Let’s celebrate the sweetness of Nepal, share these delightful treats with the world, and ensure that the tradition of Nepali mithai continues to flourish. Let’s savor these natural, clean, and rich sweets that are a testament to the beauty of the Himalayan nation’s culinary heritage.
The author is a London-based Nepali R&D chef
The heritage of mustard oil in Nepali cuisine
For centuries, indigenous edible oils have been an integral part of our culture, deeply intertwined with our culinary heritage. Among these oils, mustard oil, extracted by traditional cold-pressed methods, has played a pivotal role in our kitchens. This time-tested technique not only sustained small-scale processing but also provided employment for generations, fostering local procurement and distribution networks with minimal carbon footprint. It was a sustainable system, creating a virtuous cycle for our communities.
However, in the name of health benefits and the pursuit of ‘heart-healthy’ options, two unnatural fats—Vanaspati ghee and refined oil—were introduced to South Asia. These newcomers had a profound impact on our socio-cultural cooking and consumption patterns.
Vanaspati ghee, once marketed as a healthier alternative under the name ‘Dalda,’ underwent a transformation. Edible oil was hydrogenated, a process that involved adding hydrogen to convert liquid unsaturated fats into solid saturated fats, resulting in vanaspati ghee. It resembled ghee in appearance and boasted a higher melting point, making it ideal for deep frying. On the other hand, refined oils, touted as purer and capable of ‘producing good cholesterol,’ were virtually odorless, colorless, and tasteless. They were primarily solvent-extracted.
This introduction was a deliberate attempt to undermine indigenous and unprocessed oils while promoting the importation of less healthy options, including Palm oil, one of the unhealthiest oils globally, and other refined oils. This shift nearly led to the extinction of our ‘Kol’ or cold pressing mills and eroded the traditional knowledge of mustard oil production.
Fortunately, a new awareness is emerging among Nepali, prompting them to return to their roots and embrace the use of mustard oil. Mustard oil possesses a distinct and robust flavor with pungent and slightly bitter notes. This unique flavor complements the spices and herbs commonly used in pickles, resulting in a well-rounded taste profile that is challenging to replicate with other oils.
In traditional Newari cuisine, quick-marinated delicacies like choyela, kachila, and aloo cha rely on mustard oil to balance the flavors of cumin, garlic, and ginger. These dishes require no additional seasoning when the perfect combination of sourness and heat is achieved with salt and mustard oil.
In pickle recipes with only a few ingredients, the quality of each component becomes paramount. Using pure, high-quality mustard oil ensures that it enhances the overall flavor and aroma of the pickle. Adulterated mustard oil mixed with other oils can negatively impact the taste and aroma. Back in the day, most mustard oil was locally produced, guaranteeing its purity.
Mustard oil offers numerous health benefits. For centuries, it has been used to alleviate colds, coughs, and respiratory issues. Inhaling steam with mustard oil can clear respiratory congestion, and massaging a mixture of mustard oil, garlic, and ajwain on the feet and chest may provide relief from cold and cough.
Mustard oil contains glucosinolates, which contribute to its antibiotic, fungicidal, and cancer-prevention properties. It may protect against colorectal and gastrointestinal cancers. Allyl isothiocyanate, found in mustard oil, acts as an antifungal agent and can protect food from fungal growth.
The nutritional profile of mustard oil may support the health and strength of red blood cells. When applied topically, mustard oil can cause a warming sensation and increase blood flow, potentially alleviating pain. It has traditionally been used as a rubefacient and irritant. Some individuals use mustard oil topically to relieve joint pain and arthritis symptoms, thanks to its warming and soothing effects.
Mustard oil is believed to boost immunity, possibly due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It’s also considered suitable for diabetes recipes due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it’s said to stimulate the appetite and may slow the growth of cancer cells.
One of the remarkable qualities of mustard oil is its ability to act as a natural preservative for pickles. It helps bind the spices and dried fruits together, allowing them to absorb the seasoning, which contributes to the authentic flavor of the pickle. Mustard oil also contains compounds such as allyl isothiocyanate, which possess powerful antimicrobial, antifungal, and antibacterial properties. The oil forms a protective coating, sealing off access to oxygen and preventing spoilage, thereby extending the shelf life of the pickle.
Pure mustard oil has low water activity, which means it contains minimal dissolved water. This property inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungi, preserving the quality and flavor of the pickle.
Roasted mustard oil, known as ‘bhuteko tori ko tel’, is another indigenous variety produced in different mustard oil pressing mills in Kathmandu Valley. Unlike the cold-pressed variety, roasted oil undergoes a dry-roasting process that softens its raw mustard flavor, resulting in a dark amber-colored oil. This variation is particularly used in dishes like choyela.
Mustard oil production in Nepal is not just an industry; it’s a way of life. It celebrates agriculture, culture, and culinary traditions. The significance of mustard oil in Nepali households and its enduring presence in the heart of Nepali cuisine cannot be understated.
Mustard oil is not merely an ingredient but a culinary and cultural treasure of Nepal. It enhances flavor, preserves pickles, provides health benefits, and carries cultural significance in many culinary traditions, particularly in Nepal. Its unique qualities make it an essential component in the pickling process, and its role goes beyond the kitchen.
Mustard oil is a symbol of our heritage, connecting us to our roots and reminding us of the rich traditions that continue to shape our culinary experiences. As we celebrate the resurgence of mustard oil in our kitchens, we also celebrate our cultural heritage and the flavors that make Nepali cuisine truly special.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
The secrets of airplane curry
“Does airplane food taste different from food on the ground?” During my 16-year career in airline catering, I’ve been asked this question numerous times. The answer is yes, it tastes different, and the reason behind this difference lies in air pressure.
Celebrity chefs like Gordon Ramsay and the late Anthony Bourdain often criticized airplane food. But the truth is it’s not that bad. The quality of airplane food has improved significantly over the years.
Airline catering has come a long way since its beginnings in the 1970s. Back then, airlines primarily focused on providing basic meals to passengers, often lacking culinary appeal.
However, significant changes and advancements have taken place in airline catering. One notable change is the collaboration with chefs to enhance the quality of in-flight dining. These chefs bring their expertise and creativity to design menus that offer a higher level of culinary sophistication, transforming airline meals from basic to gourmet.
In the world of airplane food and catering, one popular choice stands out—curry. This choice is not only a favorite but also holds a connection to Nepali cuisine. A common practice in airline catering is the chilled-reheat process. This method is used to ensure food safety and maintain quality during transportation and storage. It enables a wider variety of meal options and ensures that food can be prepared in advance.
The process involves cooking the meals, quickly chilling them, and then reheating them on board, preserving their flavors and textures. But this process is more challenging than preparing à la carte meals at a restaurant.
Curry has earned its place as a popular choice for airline meals for several reasons. First, curries are known for their bold and intense flavors, which can hold their own even at high altitudes, where taste perceptions can be muted. The spices and aromatic ingredients in curries add depth and complexity to the meal.
Also, many curry dishes can maintain their textures even after reheating, making them ideal for the chilled-reheat process used in airline catering. Some even argue that curry tastes better on an airplane.
Additionally, curries are highly versatile and can be adapted to accommodate various dietary preferences and restrictions. This versatility allows airlines to offer a range of options to passengers.
Curries are beloved by people from diverse cultural backgrounds, making them a menu item with broad appeal to a global passenger base. Curry dishes come in a wide range of flavors and ingredients, catering to various taste preferences. The sauce in curry dishes helps retain moisture in the food, which is essential for airline catering. This prevents dishes from becoming dry during the reheating process, which can sometimes be necessary for in-flight meals.
Umami, often described as the savory fifth taste, plays a crucial role in enhancing the enjoyment of many culinary experiences, including curry dishes. This rich, savory flavor not only elevates the taste of these dishes but also proves valuable at high altitudes, where our taste buds become less sensitive.
Airlines recognize the challenge of maintaining flavor in the sky and strategically incorporate umami-rich ingredients like meat, cheese, and tomatoes to counter the taste-altering effects of altitude and low humidity. It’s worth noting that despite these efforts, the perception of in-flight food can still vary among passengers due to individual preferences and expectations.
Airlines can easily customize curry dishes to accommodate dietary preferences and restrictions since everything is pre-booked in advance with fixed allocated seating. This flexibility allows airlines to offer vegetarian, vegan, or meat-based curry options, catering to a wide range of passengers.
Curry dishes are known for their aromatic spices and herbs, which can add a pleasant and enticing aroma to the cabin when the food is being served. This aromatic enhancement enhances the overall dining experience for passengers.
But while curry dishes offer numerous advantages, they also present some challenges. The enticing aroma of curry can be strong and pervasive. Airlines must manage the smell to ensure it doesn’t overwhelm passengers or linger in the cabin. Preparing and reheating curry dishes consistently and to high standards can be challenging in the limited space and with the equipment available on an airplane. Ensuring that the sauce retains its texture and flavor is crucial.
Curry dishes may contain allergens such as nuts, dairy, or gluten. Airlines must clearly label and accommodate passengers with food allergies. Curry dishes prove to be a viable option for airline catering due to their flavor, moisture retention, umami, and versatility. However, airlines must carefully manage odors, maintain consistency, and address dietary restrictions to provide a satisfying dining experience for passengers.
The evolution of airline catering has seen a shift towards offering high-quality, gourmet meals, particularly in premium classes. While curry remains a popular choice, airlines now provide a wide range of meal options, including local and regional dishes made from fresh, seasonal ingredients, ensuring that passengers enjoy a more delightful and satisfying dining experience while traveling.
For me, curry isn’t limited to Indian cuisine. It encompasses various styles from around the world, including Nepali, Thai, Burmese, Indonesian, and Malaysian. I take pleasure in incorporating spices such as Timur berry and Himalayan chives or jimbu into Nepali curries.
Nepal’s coffee saga
In my early years, a solitary cherry tree graced the backyard of our Pokhara family home. Each year, we witnessed the splendid transformation from delicate blossoms to verdant fruit. As children, we frolicked with these mysterious cherries, discovering that they concealed twin seeds within. As they ripened into crimson orbs and tumbled to the earth, curiosity piqued, but none dared to taste the enigmatic fruit.
In 1990, a guest came home. As my mother prepared a meal for him, he explored our surroundings, and his gaze fell upon that tree. “Bhauju,” he exclaimed, “you have a coffee tree!” His excitement was palpable, and he promised to return during the harvest season to instruct us in the coffee-making process.
This marked my introduction to the word ‘coffee,’ a beverage that likely found its way to Nepal from Gulmi, where Hira Giri had, in 1938, imported coffee seeds from the Sindu Province of Burma, my maternal family’s place of origin. He nurtured these seeds in the Aapchaur area of Gulmi. While the seeds made their way to Nepal, the knowledge and technology needed to cultivate coffee remained elusive for many hillside homes, cultivating an air of curiosity.
What intrigued me was the timeline of coffee’s arrival in Nepal. While it had been introduced in India in the late 17th century, it took nearly 270 years for coffee to find its roots in Nepal. Baba Budan, an Indian pilgrim returning from Mecca in 1670, clandestinely transported seven coffee beans from Yemen to India, planting them in Karnataka’s Chandragiri hills. At the same time, some coffee experts posit that Gurkha soldiers and Nepali laborers employed in South Indian coffee plantations may have brought coffee seeds back to Nepal, envisioning the prospect of cultivating coffee locally upon their return.
Amidst Nepal’s new coffee generation, we tend to forget the coffee shop that first introduced coffee culture to Kathmandu: Bangalore Coffee House. After struggling to survive in New Road, its proprietors tried their luck opposite Tindhara Pathsala, renaming it the Mangalore Coffee House before vanishing from the coffee scene. This is a chapter of my Kathmandu upbringing that warrants exploration by coffee historians. Nepalis traditionally favored tea over coffee, and it took time for this preference to shift, resulting in limited local demand. Himalayan Java Coffee, a noted coffee outlet, blazed a trail by opening the first specialty coffee shop in Nepal around 1999-2000 when coffee culture was still in its infancy. The gradual growth of tourism after 1990 also played a pivotal role in shaping coffee habits.
Official records reveal that in the late 1970s, the Nepali government began distributing coffee seeds imported from India to farmers in potential districts through the Agriculture Development Bank, marking coffee’s first recognition as a potential cash crop. Interestingly, coffee plantations were also employed as a means to combat soil erosion. The Tinau Watershed Project in 1982 promoted coffee plantation on terrace risers, and not far from this watershed, in Manigram, Rupandehi, coffee processing commenced in 1983 with the establishment of Nepal Coffee Company (NeCCo), which processed dry cherries collected from local farmers.
In 1993, a formal institutional structure, the National Tea and Coffee Development Board (NTCDB), was established, poised to lead initiatives for the coffee sector’s development. Farmers from the mid-hill region began to recognize coffee as a highly lucrative crop due to rising exports and domestic consumption. The first coffee policy in Nepal emerged in 2004 as a result of these developments, followed by the commencement of organic certification a year later. In 2010, the Department of Industry registered the ‘Nepal Coffee’ logo, symbolizing the nation’s coffee identity.
In recent years, Nepal has borne witness to a coffee revolution, driven by the younger generation. Their love for coffee transcends its role as a mere morning pick-me-up; it has evolved into a cultural phenomenon. Coffee shops provide inviting spaces for socializing, studying, or working, blending aesthetics with the alluring aroma of freshly brewed coffee to create an atmosphere that resonates with the youth.
These coffeehouses offer an extensive menu, catering to diverse tastes and preferences, from classic brews to intricate espresso concoctions. Whether it’s a caramel macchiato, cold brew, or pumpkin spice latte, coffee shops satisfy the young generation’s desire for choice and customization.
In urban Nepal, coffee serves as a means of social connectivity. Young adults congregate at coffeehouses to catch up with friends, network, and meet new acquaintances. The act of sharing a coffee has evolved into a social ritual, fostering connections and strengthening relationships. For many young adults, coffee is also a source of productivity, providing an energy boost and heightened focus during late-night study sessions or work deadlines.
In my perspective, the bottleneck hindering the coffee enterprise’s growth lies in the lack of adequate research, knowledge, and technology. Overcoming these obstacles could lead to a success story, one that lauds the contributions of figures like Hira Giri, NeCCo, NTCDB, Himalayan Java, and the Nepal Coffee Producers Association.
However, I believe the true heroes of Nepal’s coffee story are the farmers who invested their time, money, and effort to make coffee a success. Their struggle is reflected in every coffee bean, making each cup a unique narrative. The significant disparity between Nepal’s coffee exports (almost 70,000 kgs) and imports (around 270,000 kgs) is a thought that never fails to weigh heavily on my mind. But Nepali coffee has indeed gained popularity in countries like the UK, America, Australia, and Japan, often leveraging branding associated with the Himalayas, Buddha, Everest, ‘Top of the World,’ Sherpa, and Gurkha heritage. Despite its current presence on a smaller scale, there is significant potential for growth in the Nepali coffee industry.
The taste of timmur: A unique Nepali spice
Have you heard about Basu Maya Tamang? Maybe not, but I’m confident you’ve savored the exquisite ‘timur chop’ produced by her ISO-certified venture, Nepali Man Udhyog. Basu Maya, hailing from Dhading, made a brave choice to quit school and work to support her siblings. Despite her best efforts to find financial stability in Kathmandu, success eluded her. The introduction of timmur chhop, a dried pickle crafted from Nepali Pepper (Zanthoxylum armatum), transformed her fortunes.
In the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, yogi and sadhus (Hindu holy men) wield sticks hewn from timmur tree branches to ward off negative energies. Although Basu Maya lacked such a stick, the fruit of the timmur tree seemingly shielded her from misfortune. In 2010, Basu Maya established her enterprise, now employing over 200 individuals, predominantly women, including many single women. For them, she’s a guardian, holding an invisible timmur stick, while to us, she’s the cherished ‘achar’ queen.
Observing the burgeoning market, it’s apparent that Basu Maya and her workforce and timmur pepper possess the potential to uplift countless impoverished Nepalis. However, substantial knowledge gaps hinder the exploration of numerous opportunities. While timmur’s application is primarily in pickle-making, its latent capacity extends far beyond, potentially opening the door to prosperity. Rigorous research into the medicinal and varied uses of timmur is indispensable.
Contrary to its name, timmur pepper isn’t a member of the pepper family. Instead, it emerges as a proud ambassador of Nepal’s botanical treasures. Derived from the berry husks of the Zanthoxylum armatum plant, indigenous to Nepal and the Himalayan region, timmur pepper boasts a flavor profile that is unparalleled. Its robust citrus notes, reminiscent of grapefruit, dance upon the palate, leaving behind an enchanting and distinctive tingle.
Nepal is nestled within the heart of the Himalayas and showcases a vibrant tapestry of cultural and culinary traditions. Amid this rich offering, one element shines brightly due to its unique flavor and captivating sensory experience: Timmur pepper also known as Nepali pepper. Yet, before we delve into its intriguing attributes, let’s unravel the story behind this ‘false pepper.’
As per the scientists, Nepal is home to more than eight varieties (species) of timmur, including Zanthoxylum acanthopodium DC., Zanthoxylum armatum DC., Z. floribunda Wall., Z. nepalense Babu, Z. nitidum (Roxb.) DC., Z. oxyphyllum Edgew., Z. simularis Hance and Z. tomentellum Hook. We need to explore the local names of all these varieties. I can only provide a few local names like Boke-timmur, Sil-timmur, and Bhote-timmur.
The status of sichuan pepper in this category eludes me. However, as a culinary expert, I can affirm that, much like its relative sichuan pepper, timmur pepper enchants with its tingling effect rather than sheer heat. This intriguing sensation, often described as both numbing and exhilarating, distinguishes it from conventional peppers. Both timmur and sichuan peppers are celebrated as ‘false peppers,’ reshaping our perception of spiciness and beckoning us to explore a realm of flavors that transcend the ordinary.
In Nepal, timmur pepper commands an esteemed position within culinary traditions. From enhancing momos, the delightful dumplings that grace Nepali tables, to infusing thukpa, a soul-warming noodle soup, timmur pepper wields its magic, elevating dishes to new heights. Its versatility shines as it harmonizes seamlessly with chicken, fish, vegetables, and even desserts, lending an unexpected twist to ice creams and beverages.
Beyond its culinary finesse, timmur pepper is believed to harbor a multitude of potential health benefits. Packed with essential minerals such as phosphorus, manganese, copper, and iron, it contributes to robust bones and may combat age-related ailments like osteoporosis. Some traditional practices even suggest that timmur pepper could enhance circulation, alleviate pain, bolster immunity, aid digestion, and improve vision health. While these claims are captivating, it's imperative to approach them with a balanced perspective, given that scientific validation is an ongoing process.
While timmur pepper’s natural habitat lies within Himalayan forests, it has found its way onto global tables. Online platforms provide convenient access, often bundled with a user-friendly built-in grinder. Renowned brands such as McCormick Gourmet Global Selects promise a top-notch experience, bringing the essence of Nepal’s mountains right into your kitchen.
In a realm of culinary conventions, timmur pepper beckons us to embark on an exploratory journey. Its lively citrusy notes and electrifying tingling sensation provide a glimpse into Nepal’s array of exquisite and diverse flavors.
I always think that adding a bit of timmur pepper to momos, mixing it into any drink, or even using it while making fish and chips, the British National Dish, to show how special this spice is in Nepali cooking. It’s like a way of showing how much nature has to offer and how skilled the chefs are. Timmur pepper doesn’t just make the food taste better, it also captures the true Nepali cooking style that has been around for a long time. This special spice has a strong smell and taste that really represents Nepali food, and it connects the flavors to the land where it comes from. Step beyond the ordinary, indulge your senses, and savor the captivating allure of timmur pepper – an authentic taste of Nepal’s Himalayan legacy.
As a British Nepali, I frequently need to discuss Nepali cuisine globally and distinguish our culinary heritage from Indian food. Timmur helps me do that. With its unique floral aroma, tingling sensory charm, alluring appearance, and peppery zest, timmur defines Nepali cuisine.
Personally, I hold timmur in high regard—it’s a staple in my kitchen cabinet.