The goodness of gahat

If you’ve ever traveled along the Prithivi Highway, you might have noticed a small market called Baireni Bazar. About 166 years ago, Mahesh Khola, a small tributary of the Trisuli River, flowed over Baireni. Around 1858, Subba Homnath Khatiwada and his father, Mukhiya Pandit Nandalal Khatiwada, decided to connect Mahesh Khola and Trisuli in Galchhi to use the three kilometers long riverbed and valley for agriculture.

However, there was a 300-meter-high hill between these two rivers. So, Subba and his father decided to remove that hill. They were the tax collectors (mukhiya) of that area and called hundreds of volunteers from 15 villages with their traditional arms and farming equipment.

They also collected a special ingredient to melt the strong stones supporting the hill – gahat, the horse gram. It’s said that they collected 17 muri (almost 11 kilograms) and cooked it in four different vessels, using the soup to melt the foundation stones of the hill.

Gahat, also known as horse gram or kulthi in Madhesh, has a rich history in South Asia. Researchers suggest that people have been eating horse gram since 2500 BC, for over 4500 years, making it older than the Ganga Basin Civilization and the Vedic Civilization. During the time of the Saraswati River Civilization and Harappan Civilization, horse gram was commonly consumed. Evidence of this lentil has been found during excavations in Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh of India, indicating its use in the Harappan era.

The medicinal properties of horse gram are mentioned in ancient texts like the Vedas and Tamil Sangam literature. In Tamil Sangam literature, many books describe the properties of horse gram. Excavations in Payyampalli village in the Vellore district of Tamil Nadu have revealed evidence of animal domestication and plant cultivation, with pottery making and Horse gram cultivation found in the village.

Overall, horse gram has been a staple in South Asian diets for thousands of years, with its historical significance dating back to ancient civilizations.

Horse gram is considered one of the most nutritious pulses available. According to Ayurveda, it’s a superfood that offers numerous health benefits. It’s known to be effective against diabetes, cholesterol, and kidney problems. The nutrients in horse gram help reduce hunger and make you feel full faster, making it ideal for weight loss. Its name comes from its historical use as both human food and feed for horses.

Despite its nutritional value, horse gram is often seen as a food for the poor, especially in southern India. This misconception has led to less research on its benefits compared to other pulses. Ayurvedic practitioners recommend horse gram as a diuretic, which helps increase urine flow and can be consumed as a soup twice a day for four weeks to see results.

According to Ayurvedic practitioners, horse gram is known for its diuretic properties, which help increase urine flow. Consuming horse gram soup twice a day for four weeks can show visible results in this regard.

For asthmatic patients, a common Ayurvedic remedy is to consume a paste made from boiled horse gram and pepper. This can help reduce cough, cold, and congestion, providing immediate relief and aiding in managing breathing problems, although it’s not a cure for asthma.

They also suggest that due to its diuretic properties, horse gram is effective in assisting the removal of kidney stones. Including horse gram in your regular diet can also help prevent the formation of kidney stones, as it contains certain compounds that make these stones soluble.

Indian scientists have found that raw horse gram seeds have the ability to reduce high blood sugar levels after a meal. They achieve this by slowing down carbohydrate digestion and reducing insulin resistance. This makes horse gram an excellent food choice for diabetics.

Horse gram seeds are rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and proteins, which are major antioxidants found in fruits. These antioxidants contribute to overall health and well-being. Raw horse gram is packed with polyphenols, flavonoids, and proteins, making it a nutritious option. It’s also low in fat and high in carbohydrates, which is beneficial for heart health.

Consuming plenty of horse gram can aid in managing obesity as it has the ability to target fatty tissue, thanks to its high phenol content. Horse gram, especially when consumed as soup, can generate heat and energy in the body, keeping you warm on cold winter days. It’s rich in iron, calcium, and protein. It contains the highest calcium content among pulses and is one of the best vegetarian sources of protein. Due to its high iron content, horse gram can help cure irregular menstrual cycles and increase blood hemoglobin levels.

One downside of horse gram is its phytic acid content, which can block nutrient absorption in the body. However, soaking, sprouting, or cooking horse gram seeds before eating can significantly reduce this. Horse gram isn’t just good for humans; it’s beneficial for the land too. Its vines grow quickly and densely, helping to prevent soil erosion, particularly on sloping land with poor mineral content.

Horse Gram is tough and can withstand long periods of drought with minimal effort from farmers. It’s often grown in dry areas with limited access to technology or irrigation, making it a preferred crop. It’s also cultivated in regions where other crops may struggle due to low fertility. Because of its hardiness, it’s a great choice for land reclamation projects.

Next time you enjoy ‘gahat ko daal’, remember to appreciate our ancestors for giving us this superfood, which we seem to have ignored in recent times.

Baral is a UK based R&D chef

 

A Nepali dines at the British parliament

As I sat down to dine at the British parliament, I looked over a variety of dishes, each proudly symbolizing the best of British culture. From welcoming cocktails to chicken, pork to lamb, accompanied by refreshing locally crafted beer, every item on the menu boasted its origin from within the UK. The chicken hailed from the farms of Norfolk and Suffolk, while the turkey was sourced from Herefordshire. Even the bacon had its roots firmly planted in British soil, coming from pigs raised, slaughtered, and cured by a dedicated group of farmers primarily located in East Anglia and Southern England.

Recently, I had the privilege of visiting the British parliament with a few friends, eagerly anticipating a fine dining experience within its historic halls. Stepping into this esteemed institution, I felt as though a long-held dream had finally come to fruition. As an outsider, I’ve always been fascinated by the inner workings of this pillar of democracy, which serves as a shining example of a nation’s constitution and the embodiment of its laws, rights, and duties.

The visit was a scheduled affair, and the excitement was palpable as we looked forward to immersing ourselves in the heart of British governance. Despite a minor setback due to a colleague’s absence from our dinner reservation, the anticipation of experiencing parliamentary discourse and sampling British cuisine with a modern twist remained undiminished. The menu, though not extensive, catered to various dietary needs, showcasing meticulous engineering that represents the diversity of Great Britain’s culinary landscape.

Upon arrival, the grandeur of the architecture matched the gravity of the discussions within. Witnessing passionate debates among MPs on matters of national significance was both enlightening and inspiring. It served as a testament to the democratic process and the commitment of those entrusted with shaping the nation’s future.

During the visit, Harriet Neuman, a dedicated MP’s personal secretary, offered insight into the intricate rules and protocols governing parliamentary proceedings. Her detailed explanation shed light on the hierarchical structure and the meticulous recording of every aspect of parliamentary business.

Meanwhile, we encountered Captain James Robert Billingham, a retired army officer, who somehow was familiar with my social and charity endeavors. He mentioned that he had been following my efforts to promote food from every corner. In response, I attempted to redirect the conversation, emphasizing that momo, a traditional Nepali dish, represents just one facet of Nepal’s rich and diverse culinary heritage.

I highlighted the vastness and diversity of Nepali cuisine, suggesting that perhaps I should invite him to Nepal so he could witness and experience it firsthand. Upon his return, he could potentially serve as a goodwill ambassador for Nepal, sharing his experiences and promoting the country’s culinary richness.

Following the enriching parliamentary experience, we made our way to dinner, eager to indulge in the culinary delights awaiting us. The menu, a reflection of Britain’s culinary heritage, featured locally sourced, seasonal produce transformed into healthy and delicious dishes. The impeccable service added to the overall dining experience.

Like most foodies on the team, they offered or rather tasked me to order a meal with one condition: food must be shared. I ordered the soup of the day for everyone; it was not mentioned as actual soup – it was curried carrot soup. Curry is part of British culture. While ordering soup, I also heard stories about British heritage carrots. Carrots were introduced to Britain by the Flemings during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I and were grown mainly in Kent and Surrey. They were also worn as decoration in ladies’ hats.

I also ordered Char grilled English Asparagus with wild garlic, Severn, and Wye Smoked Salmon with horseradish cream, Prawn cocktail, another classic British dish, Pork belly, and of course Fish and Chips. Fish and Chips is like momo in Nepal. At every corner you will find these and you enjoy them with local craft beer batter. I love the tartar sauce, like our achar. What a lovely system serving a selection of warm bread with British butter. The British system knows how to spoil guests in a simple but very effective way. I also ordered green beans with roasted garlic, cauliflower with cheese, and boulangerie potato as a side, and ordered three desserts to share. I love champagne sorbet. In the end, all the plates were empty; the symbol of good food.

Joined by British, Indian, and Nepali friends, the evening at one of Britain’s most revered landmarks sparked conversations about empowering local youth and fostering economic and social growth. My focus remained on building bridges between my homeland, Nepal, and the UK, as well as the rest of the world, through the universal language of food.

As conversations flowed and laughter filled the air, surrounded by beloved friends and colleagues, the evening became an unforgettable memory. It was a perfect blend of intellectual inspiration and culinary pleasure, showcasing the richness of great British culture and hospitality.

Looking back, my visit to the House of Parliament and the subsequent dinner epitomized British tradition and hospitality. It was a journey that left a lasting impression, underscoring the importance of meaningful discourse and savoring life’s simple pleasures with loved ones.

While I was heading back home in London, a question kept nagging at me: Can the canteen of the Nepali parliament serve food produced in Nepal?

The author is a UK based R&D chef

The diversity of curry powder

Curry powder, the world’s most popular spice blend, takes us on a fascinating journey through taste and tradition. Forget about a single recipe, curry powder is a chameleon, adapting to local preferences and family secrets across the globe.

Imagine this: A posh London supermarket like Harrods selling fancy curry powder and a street vendor in India offering individual portions in little plastic pouches. This is the magic of curry powder – It’s everywhere, from high-end to humble beginnings.

So, what exactly is curry powder? There’s no single answer. It’s a symphony of spices, typically including turmeric, cumin, coriander, ginger, and black pepper. Some blends add garlic and cinnamon, creating a warm, inviting aroma that elevates any dish.

The beauty lies in its diversity. Unlike a standardized spice mix, curry powder is a blank canvas. Each region, community, and even family has its unique blend, reflecting local availability and taste preferences. This creates a myriad of recipes, all waiting to be explored.

You can craft your signature curry powder at home. Start with a simple base like turmeric, chili powder, and cumin – the classic Nepali way. This is what I learned from my neighbor, the Palpali Newar family. This mindset has been with me since childhood, even though I’m now the head of Indian, Arabic, and Oriental cuisine for a multinational company, surrounded by a rich array of spices from Mother Earth.

Experiment with spices like coriander seeds, fennel seeds, or mustard seeds. Want a smoky touch? Add a cinnamon stick or cloves.

I also cherish memories from my mama and uncle Chabilal Marahata, also known as ‘Chop Bhaje,’ and ‘Sharma Ji,’ who started fish and aaloo chop at Malekhu. Sharma Ji used to make a fish masala blend from roasted white sesame powder, sarsyun seed powder (yellow mustard seed), cumin powder, chili powder, turmeric powder, and a hint of timmur. This blend was one of the best sellers and a crowd-pleaser.

Despite its popularity, our family never standardized the recipe or scaled it up like the rest of the country because we lacked entrepreneurial minds like our neighboring countries. I’m reflecting on this as I recall my traveling experiences and spending time with chefs and chef entrepreneurs from various nations.

Cumin reigns supreme as the world’s favorite spice, coriander is the herb of choice, and garlic is a global staple. Black pepper, the king of spices, holds the top sales spot. Turmeric is considered the gold of spices because of its brilliant yellow color.

But curry powder’s story goes beyond taste. Following World War II, a wave of South Asian immigrants brought their love for curry to Britain. Today, curry is as British as fish and chips, with chicken tikka masala even being called a ‘true national dish.’ One of the famous dishes from Japan is Katsu curry, basically a thick curry sauce served with steamed rice and breaded and fried chicken.

The health benefits are another perk. Curry powder’s diverse spices offer a treasure trove of goodness, potentially boosting brain and digestive health, promoting fullness, lowering blood sugar, and even providing antibacterial properties.

Now, let’s not forget garam masala, another popular spice blend from Asia. This ‘hot spice mix’ is perfect for meat and chicken dishes. Some people include garam masala in curry powder too.

While pre-made curry powders are readily available, there’s something special about creating your own. Adjust the proportions to suit your palate. Like more heat? Add chili powder or black pepper. Prefer a milder flavor? Reduce it. Dislike a particular spice? Leave it out. There are no hard and fast rules.

Here’s a list of spices you can use in your curry powder mix, along with some recipe ideas.

Basic curry powder (all-purpose): Combine two tablespoons of coriander powder, one tablespoon of cumin powder, one tablespoon of turmeric powder, and one teaspoon of chili powder. This is a great base to add to any dish for a warm, savory curry flavor.

South Indian curry powder: To the basic recipe, add one teaspoon of mustard seeds, one teaspoon of fennel seeds, and a few curry leaves. This blend is perfect for lentil curries, sambar, and vegetable dishes.

Nepali curry powder: For a touch of the Himalayas, add half a teaspoon of ground timmur berry and half a teaspoon of fenugreek seeds to the basic recipe. This unique blend pairs well with lamb, goat, and stews.

Winter curry powder: Add a touch of warmth with half a teaspoon of black pepper, and a pinch of ground cloves, and a hint of nutmeg to the basic recipe. This blend is perfect for winter curries and stews.

Fish curry powder: Include half a teaspoon of fennel seeds and three green cardamom pods in the basic recipe for a seafood-friendly curry powder.

Red meat: For richer dishes, add a small cinnamon stick and a pinch of ground nutmeg to the basic recipe.

Remember, salt and lemon juice are your friends, balancing out the flavors. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

 

Where did salt come from?

Have your grandfather or grandmother ever told you how they traveled for many days just to get salt and carried that heavy load in their ‘dokos’? The tale of salt travel is as salty as the drops of sweat shed while carrying the salt. It’s saltier than the tears shed due to their hardships. Listen to their stories, which serve to enhance the taste of the food we eat today. The rich flavor of our food wasn’t a given. It was the result of our ancestors’ hardships.

Did you know that the prosperity of the rich Karnali or our entire Himalayan region started to decline when China occupied Tibet? There was a huge ‘Bhote noon’ (Tibetan salt) trade cycle going on for centuries across the Nepal-Tibet border. People from the Himalayas and the Khas region used to buy many ingredients from Tibet and sell them to India, and vice versa. And the main ingredient of that trade was Bhote noon.

The salt cycle started to decline when China tightened the border policy to keep Tibet under control. The Chinese government raised taxes on Bhote noon in Tibet and introduced a quota system on salt production. This made it difficult for our Khas and Himali people to cross the border and trade, which had a huge economic impact on our Himalayan region.

Did you know that there are many remote places in Karnali Province where people still walk many miles to get a few packets of salt?

Salt, the humble ingredient found in every kitchen, holds many more stories than its tiny crystals might suggest. It’s not just about enhancing flavor; it’s a journey through history, culture, and personal connection. Here, we’ll explore the fascinating world of salts, from everyday table salt to the exotic Himalayan black salt. I’ll even tell you a heartwarming tale of nostalgia.

Let us start the journey with the most common – table salt. This finely-grained, iodized wonder is the workhorse of kitchens worldwide, adding a savory touch to countless dishes. But the world of salt extends far beyond the little shakers on your table.

Kosher salt, the gentle giant, boasts large, flaky crystals that dissolve easily, making it perfect for seasoning meat and vegetables. Sea salt, harvested from evaporated seawater, comes in various textures and boasts trace minerals that can add subtle complexity to your food.

For a touch of luxury, we have Himalayan pink salt, mined from ancient salt deposits, and the Celtic sea salt, known for its beautiful gray color and unique mineral content. These specialty salts are often used as finishing touches, adding a delicate flavor and visual appeal.

The adventure doesn’t stop there. We have smoked salt, infused with the smoky aroma of wood fire, perfect for adding depth to grilled meats. Black Hawaiian salt, made with activated charcoal, boasts an earthy flavor, while red Hawaiian salt, infused with volcanic clay, adds a stunning red hue and a nutty taste.

Flake salt, with its light and delicate flakes, is a favorite for finishing dishes, while pickling salt, free of additives, is essential for preserving vegetables. Even volcano salt, a black lava salt from Iceland, adds a dramatic touch to your culinary creations.

Now, let’s embark on a more personal journey. Black salt, also known as ‘bire noon’ in Nepal, is more than just a seasoning for me. It’s a portal to my childhood, filled with memories of winter and the arrival of the Bhote Khampa, nomadic traders from the Himalayas.

These hardy people braved the harsh winters to trade their precious Tibetan rock salt for Nepali rice. This centuries-old barter system, a fascinating branch of the Silk Road, brought bustling marketplaces alive, not with silk and spices, but with shimmering salt crystals and golden rice.

The Bhote Khampa weren’t just traders; they were storytellers, bringing tales of the majestic Himalayas and a bygone era. Their black salt, infused with the essence of the mountains, added a depth of flavor to our meals, becoming more than just a seasoning, but a symbol of connection and cultural exchange.

For my mother, buying black salt wasn’t just a transaction; it was a chance to connect with a different way of life and a reminder of the human spirit’s resilience. Though the world has changed, and the Bhote Khampa no longer traverses the mountains, the memories linger.

Every time I use black salt, it’s more than just adding flavor; it's honoring a legacy, a taste of history passed down through generations. It’s a reminder that even the simplest ingredients can hold the most profound stories.

This exploration of salts is just a glimpse into the vast and fascinating world of this seemingly ordinary ingredient. So, the next time you reach for the salt shaker, remember the stories it holds, the cultures it represents, and the personal connections it can evoke.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

The tales of Nepali potato

The only negative connotation you can find in the Nepali language about potatoes is, “s/he eats aalu (potato) in the final exam”. As the shape of a potato resembles zero, it’s popularly termed as ‘potato grade’ in our society. Aside from this, the potato holds an all-time favorite status in Nepali society, as implied by the phrase “s/he is just like a potato,” meaning one can fit anywhere, just like a potato goes well with any vegetable.

While browsing the online version of Annapurna Post, I suddenly noticed a detailed story about ‘Tharu aalu’ from Tikapur in Kailali. I had never heard of a potato species named after the Tharu indigenous community. So, I read through the entire story. According to the report, this species of potato is exclusively cultivated by the Tharu community and is considered indigenous.

Potatoes entered Nepal 176 years ago, introduced by British naturalist Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker in Taplejung during an ecological expedition in eastern Nepal from October to December of 1848. Sir Hooker was accompanied by Brian H. Hodgson, a naturalist and ethnologist who later became a British resident in Kathmandu. Potatoes then spread across Nepal and became a national favorite.

The per capita consumption of potatoes in Nepal is 75 kg, which is one of the highest in Asia, with almost 90 percent of potatoes consumed by Nepalis being cultivated in Nepal, while only 10 to 12 percent is imported.

Potatoes, scientifically known as Solanum tuberosum, are believed to have originated in the Andes Mountains of South America, particularly in present-day Peru and Bolivia. These early potatoes were smaller and had a wide range of shapes and colors, quite different from the standardized varieties we know today.

Potatoes quickly adapted to the diverse agro-climatic conditions of Nepal, making them a vital crop across different regions of the country. Their adaptability and ease of cultivation made them especially appealing to Nepali farmers.

Potatoes became more than just a crop; they were a solution to food security issues. In a nation with a complex geography, ranging from the lowlands of the Tarai to the towering Himalayas, having a reliable source of sustenance was crucial. Potatoes provided this reliability, as they could be grown at various altitudes and in different soil conditions.

Potatoes have left an indelible mark on Nepali cuisine, being a key ingredient in a variety of dishes, including aalu chop, aalu ko achar (potato salad), and often served with sel roti and puri. The adaptability of potatoes allows them to be incorporated into both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, making them an essential part of Nepali gastronomy.

The aalu dum is a ubiquitous dish that features potatoes simmered in a flavorful tomato-based gravy. Variations abound, with some adding peas or cauliflower. It’s a staple enjoyed year-round.

Aalu sadheko is a spicy potato salad that is popular in Kathmandu Valley. It’s a delightful twist on the classic potato salad. Boiled potatoes are tossed with a tangy dressing of chilies, ginger, garlic, and herbs. Perfect for any occasion.

Mustang aalu, on the other hand, is a deep-fried and fiery delicacy. This crispy potato snack is a specialty of the Mustang region. Packed with red chilies, timur pepper (or substitutes), and other spices, it’s a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. It’s best enjoyed during colder months.

Baglung, Gulmi, and Palpa regions offer chukainu, a refreshing yogurt-based potato curried salad. Chopped potatoes are combined with vegetables, herbs, and a creamy yogurt dressing, making it a light and healthy option. Tempering with fenugreek seeds is very important.

Sherpa communities in the high Himalayas have their own potato delicacy – rildok. Mashed potatoes are mixed with nettles or other wild greens, offering a unique taste and essential nutrients during the harsh winters.

Malekhu is popular for its aalu chop. This dish features deep-fried potato wedges tossed in a spicy and tangy sauce. While its exact origin is unclear, it’s a popular street food enjoyed across Nepal.

Thicheko aalu, that’s a local delicacy in Pokhara, literally translates to ‘pressed potatoes.’ This dish involves flattening boiled potatoes and pan-frying them until crispy. It’s a simple yet flavorful snack.

Originating from the Madhesh and popular nationwide, aalu bhujuri is a simple and delicious item made from potatoes. Just thinly slice the potatoes and fry them in hot oil with seed spices like cumin or fennel. Cook until brown. Add salt, grated garlic, chili, and turmeric, and cook for a while.

This is just a taste of the many potato dishes that grace Nepali tables. Each region and community has its take on this versatile ingredient, reflecting the rich heritage of Nepali cuisine. So, next time you’re looking for a potato dish with a twist, consider exploring the culinary delights of Nepal.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Battisa: Our superfood

Sometimes, in our search for the latest ‘science-based’ medicines available in the market, we unintentionally overlook the rich knowledge handed down by our ancestors—embodied in the realm of traditional medicine. Defined by scientists as a culturally and regionally specific body of knowledge, traditional medicine is a source of wisdom developed over time by local and indigenous communities to address their unique health needs.

Enter ‘battisa,’ a superfood rooted in Nepali culture. The name itself is derived from the Nepali word for the number 32. Passed down through generations, battisa is not only sought after by the Nepali diaspora but also by those residing in Nepal.

Battisa, also known as ‘sutkeri ko ausedhi’ or ‘masala’ in Nepali, is important for women’s health. This traditional herbal mixture comprises 32 different spices and herbs, offering a holistic approach to health. Widely used in Nepal, especially during pregnancy and lactation, sutkeri masala has become an indispensable superfood in Nepali households for new mothers, aiding in their post-pregnancy recovery.

Considered a must-have for new mothers, sutkeri masala is not limited to any specific gender or age group. Crafted from a blend of 32 natural ingredients, this masala is an ideal addition to the postpartum diet, contributing to the quality and quantity of breast milk, and providing essential nutrients for newborns. Additionally, it aids in strengthening muscles and bones, boosting energy levels, and improving digestion, all of which are crucial aspects for new mothers.

Despite its name, sutkeri masala extends its benefits to people of all ages and genders. This mixture harnesses the healing properties of locally available medicinal and herbal plants. Used not just as food but also as Ayurvedic medicine, the production of sutkeri ko ausadhi varies across families and regions as it’s largely influenced by local customs.

Spices and herbs, staples in culinary and medicinal practices for centuries, not only enhance the flavor of food but also offer protection against acute and chronic diseases.

Battisa, with its potential medicinal properties and nutritional value, stands out as a traditional remedy in Nepal. Let’s delve into the individual herbs that constitute battisa powder:

  • Amala (Indian gooseberry): Rich in vitamin C, boosts immunity, and possesses antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Arjuna: Supports heart health by strengthening and toning the heart muscle.
  • Ashwagandha: Manages stress, and anxiety, and boosts the immune system.
  • Baayubidanga: Relieves headaches and insomnia.
  • Barro: A great source of vitamin D and calcium.
  • Bel (Wood apple): Effective for digestive issues and inflammation.
  • Bhringaraja: Known for its antioxidant properties and immunity-building abilities.
  • Gokhru (Tribulus terrestris): Useful for urinary disorders and improving sexual health.
  • Harro (Chebulic myrobolon): Helps with nervous irritability and indigestion.
  • Dalchini (Cinnamon): Balances insulin, improves gut health, and reduces infections.
  • Kaphal (Bayberry): Helps with headaches, toothache, and eye problems.
  • Kausso (Mucuna pruriens): Aids in improving sleep and reducing body fat.
  • Kachur (East Indian arrowroot): Manages symptoms of cough and cold.
  • Gurjo (Heart-leaved moonseed): Known for its immune-boosting properties.
  • Jeera (Cumin): Stimulates milk production and provides iron, beneficial for new mothers.
  • Jethimadhu (Liquorice root): Used to treat respiratory problems, skin infections, and more.
  • Jwaano (Ajwain or Lovage): Helps with bloating, gas problems, and urinary tract diseases.
  • Kurilo (Asparagus): Rich in folate, aids in pregnancy and breast milk production.
  • Koirala (Mountain ebony): Used for various health issues, including diarrhea, heartburn, and skin diseases.
  • Majitho (Indian madder): Beneficial for menstrual disorders and blood disorders.
  • Marich (Black pepper): Improves blood sugar levels and lowers cholesterol.
  • Nagkesar (Indian rose chestnut): Promotes blood flow and aids in wound healing.
  • Naagarmoothe (Cyperus scariosus): Has anti-hyperglycemic and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Pasanbhed/Pakhanbhed (Rock foil coleus): Helps manage ulcers and relieves coughing.
  • Pipala (Long pepper): Aids in digestion and milk production in lactating mothers.
  • Punarnava (Spreading hog wood): Used for anemia, eye health, gout, and heart issues.
  • Sataawar/Bankurilo (Wild asparagus): Supports healthy pregnancy outcomes and digestion.
  • Shankhapuspee (Butterfly pea): Rich in antioxidants, reduces fatigue, and slows aging.
  • Simal (Red cotton tree): Used for wound healing and stopping bleeding.
  • Sutho (Dry ginger): Effective against germs, period pains, and bloating.
  • Tejpat (Bay leaves): Acts as a stress buster, natural wound healer, improves digestion, and supports heart health.
  • Thulo Okhati (Astilbe rivularis): Used for pre- and post-pregnancy recovery.

These herbs collectively offer a wide range of health benefits, making battisa powder a valuable traditional remedy in Nepal, especially for women’s health during pregnancy and post-pregnancy phases. Contrary to the assumption that traditional medicine is primarily relied upon by the poor and marginalized due to its accessibility, battisa enjoys popularity among all Nepali.

In light of this, it becomes crucial to foster a better understanding of the diverse knowledge and practices employed by traditional practitioners in Nepal. The preservation, promotion, and mainstreaming of traditional medicines and practices should be prioritized to avoid being perpetually caught in the rat race for market-developed superfoods.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

More than just fermented soybean

According to the Kirat legend, the black soybean was the first crop cultivated by the people in Nepal. To avoid monotony, they created diverse ways to enjoy it, including raw, boiled, fried, crushed, and even fermented, giving birth to the iconic ‘kinema’.

Agricultural scientist and former principal director of agriculture, Sikkim, Jash Raj Subba mentions in his book ‘History, Culture, and Customs of Sikkim’ that according to the Kirat legend (Mundhum – an oral tradition of the Limbu), the black soybean was the first crop domesticated and cultivated by the Kiratas in this part of the country. The lone cultivated crop was thus consumed in various ways to avoid monotonous eating. They ate it raw, boiled with pods, dry frying, crushing, and fermenting, including the famous kinema.

This means the oldest Nepali fermented food is kinema. Crafting kinema is an age-old tradition passed down through generations. Dried soybeans are first husked, soaked overnight, and then boiled. The boiled soybeans are then smashed and pounded in a mortar and pestle (okhali) and then placed on the Newara leaves (Ficus roxburgh II) and put in a basket to activate microbial activity. After fermentation for a day or two with a mix of microbes and yeasts, particularly Bacillus subtilis, the result is a stringy-sticky mass infused with rich umami and meaty flavors.

Kinema is a food that you either love or love to hate. Many consider kinema smelly and don’t eat it, but some people even pay a higher price to get it. As a traveling research and development chef, I once encountered Natto, a traditional Japanese food made from fermented whole soybeans. But Natto and Kinema are not the same, although they are both fermented soybean products. 

Natto is a traditional Japanese food made from soybeans fermented with Bacillus subtilis var. natto bacteria. It has a characteristic strong smell, distinctive flavor, and a sticky texture due to the fermentation process. Kinema, conversely, is a fermented soybean product from Nepal, particularly popular among the Gurung ethnic group. It’s made by fermenting cooked soybeans with the fungus Rhizopus oligosporus. Kinema has a softer texture compared to natto and has a slightly sweet, sour taste.

While both natto and kinema are fermented soybean products, they originate from different cultures and use different fermentation agents, resulting in distinct flavors, textures, and culinary uses.

Fermented soybeans are indeed present in various cuisines around the world, each with its unique methods of preparation and flavors. Here are a few examples:

Tempeh (Indonesian cuisine): Tempeh is a traditional Indonesian fermented soybean product. It is made by fermenting cooked soybeans with a fungus called Rhizopus oligosporus. Tempeh has a firm texture and a nutty flavor. It’s commonly used in Indonesian cuisine as a protein source and can be fried, grilled, or used in various dishes.

Doenjang (Korean cuisine): Doenjang is a fermented soybean paste used in Korean cuisine. It’s made by fermenting soybeans with salt and a fermentation culture called meju. Doenjang has a savory, umami-rich flavor and is often used as a base for soups, stews, and sauces in Korean cooking.

Miso (Japanese cuisine): Miso is another fermented soybean paste used in Japanese cuisine. It’s made by fermenting soybeans with salt and a koji culture (Aspergillus oryzae). Miso comes in various colors and flavors, ranging from sweet to salty to savory, depending on the ingredients and fermentation time. It’s commonly used to make miso soup, dressings, marinades, and sauces in Japanese cooking.

Chao (Vietnamese cuisine): Chao is a fermented soybean paste used in Vietnamese cuisine. It’s made by fermenting cooked soybeans with salt and a fermentation culture. Chao has a salty, savory flavor and is often used as a condiment or seasoning in Vietnamese dishes.

These are just a few examples of fermented soybean products in different cuisines worldwide. Fermented soybeans are valued not only for their unique flavors but also for their nutritional benefits and versatility in cooking.

Similar to Japan’s natto, kinema is versatile. It can be sun-dried or incorporated into flavorful curries, with variations in preparation reflecting regional nuances. Despite its cultural significance, the tradition of making kinema faces challenges due to fewer individuals inheriting the knowledge.

To preserve this tradition, efforts are needed to document traditional methods, foster knowledge exchange, and raise awareness. Without such efforts, there’s a risk of losing this culinary heritage, impacting Nepali and Kirat cultural diversity.

The story of kinema is not just about a fermented soybean dish. It’s a tale of cultural heritage at risk of fading away. With concerted efforts, we can ensure that the flavors, traditions, and stories of Nepali cuisine remain intact for future generations to appreciate and cherish. 

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

The tradition of preserving food in Nepal

Traditional ways of preserving food have been practiced for generations, and they vary across cultures. In Nepal, there are several traditional methods, and one interesting example is the technique mentioned in writer Kedar Sharma’s article. 

One method involves digging a hole in the ground and using traditional wooden containers called ‘Thekis’ to preserve curd for a year. This process likely relies on the natural coolness of the earth to keep the curd from spoiling. This technique showcases the ingenuity of preserving food using locally available resources and traditional knowledge.

Beyond this method, there are various other traditional ways in Nepal, which include sun-drying, smoking, fermenting, pickling, or using specific spices and herbs for preservation. Each method often reflects the cultural and environmental context of the region.

As a research and development chef, exploring these traditional techniques provides me with a rich source of inspiration and a deeper connection to the food culture of Nepal. It’s a way to celebrate and preserve culinary heritage while incorporating innovative ideas into my culinary creations.

Before we had our fancy fridges and modern ways of keeping food fresh, people used some clever methods to make sure they had something to eat even when fruits and veggies weren't in season. They would dry, ferment, pickle, cook in fat, use dry salt, cure, smoke, and even store food in cellars.

The main goal was to save food from the good harvest times so we could eat it later when we needed it. In Nepal, they often sun-dried extra fruits and veggies. They would spread them out under a thin cloth in the sun until they became all wrinkly and hard. If it was just a small amount, they might use something called ‘Naglo,’ and for bigger batches, they would use a ‘Mandro.’

After drying, they would hang the food in a cool storage room until it was time to eat it. When that time came, they would soak the dried food in water and cook it to make it tasty again. Fruits were easier to preserve than meat. Back in the day, people had to work hard to make sure they had enough safe and healthy food for their families all year round.

Even though we now have high-tech ways to keep our food fresh, there’s still something special about learning how to preserve food at home. It’s a skill that makes you feel proud, and it helps you understand more about what you’re eating.

Now, do you have any favorite items that you would like to preserve at home? I’ll run you through some simple methods to do that.

Sundrying

Sundrying is magic for preserving food. It’s used for things like drying fish, sidra, and meat for sukuti (which is sure to make your mouth water). This method is also used for radishes, spinach, cauliflower, tomatoes, and many other fruits and veggies. After they’re dried in the sun, they are stored until we want to eat them. When it’s time to enjoy them, we soak them in water and cook them up.

Pickling

Pickling is another cool way to preserve food, and in Nepal, we do it a bit differently than others. Instead of using vinegar or lemon, we sun-dry the fruits and veggies to get rid of the water. Then, we mix them with roasted spices and cover them with mustard oil. The special trick here is pairing the right herbs and spices with the fruits and veggies to make a flavorful pickle. Fennel, mustard seeds, mustard powder, fenugreek leaves, jwano, and mugrelo are the key players in this delicious game.

Fermentation

Fermenting food is an age-old tradition in Nepal, and one well-known fermented pickle is Mula ko Achar, especially loved in the mountainous regions. It’s like kimchi, made with chunky slices of white radish marinated with mustard seeds, cumin powder, red chili, turmeric powder, and green chili. It’s a tasty treat found all across Nepal. Similarly, raw mango pickle is popular in the Tarai region. These pickles are made by marinating the main ingredient with various spices.

Other preservation techniques

Apart from pickling, there are other methods too. Smoking, drying, and making concentrated forms of food are popular. Sugarcane juice turns into ‘Khuda’, and lemon transforms into ‘Amilo’, giving them a longer shelf life.

Special treats

There are also some forgotten foods in Nepal like Siramla, Sato Khatte, Chiura, Moori, and Bhooja that are ready to eat whenever we need them.

The pandemic lockdowns made us urban folks think about traditional ways of preserving food. Techniques like sidra, sukako maachha, and sukuti involve drying, salting, and sometimes smoking fish for long-term storage. These methods have been passed down through generations and are crucial in times of need.

So, whether it’s sun-drying, pickling, fermenting, smoking, or just concentrating flavors, there’s a treasure trove of traditional food preservation techniques in Nepal that can teach us a lot about making our food last longer and taste amazing.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef