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Imagine Kathmandu before the infamous Kot Massacre on September 14, 1846. Brisharaj Rajkarnikar, a man from the Newar Uray community of Yala (Patan), was experimenting with sweets. He shared his creations with family and neighbors, and soon, word of his expertise reached the royal palace.

Brisharaj was summoned to the court, where his sweets became a favorite among the king, queen, and other royals. After the Kot Parba, he was called back to the palace to resume his role as the royal sweet-maker under the new ruler, Jung Bahadur. One day, while working in the kitchen, Brisharaj met Maharaja Jung Bahadur and seized the opportunity to get approval to open a sweet shop. Thus, in 1848, Ram Bhandar was born.

However, maintaining the quality that has been a hallmark of the shop for over 175 years is challenging. Sixty-nine-year-old Divakar Rajkarnikar is Brisharaj’s great-grandson and the current owner of Ram Bhandar. However, things are far from sweet sailing at the sweet shop today. There are many challenges in maintaining quality, Divakar ‘dai’ (elder brother) told me on the phone. He explained that sourcing high-quality raw materials has become increasingly difficult, and finding and retaining skilled human resources is another hurdle.

Ram Bhandar, named after Lord Ram and featuring a logo with a bow and arrow, has long been a symbol of Nepali culture. Located in Thapathali, Kathmandu, the shop has been famous for sweets like jeri, swari, malpuwa, selroti, lakhamari, lalmohan, and gund-paak. After the collapse of its original location, the shop found a new home on the banks of the Bagmati River, thanks to the Ranas. The shop’s association with Nepal’s royal families further cemented its reputation.

Sweets hold a special place in Nepali culture, and Ram Bhandar’s offerings, especially the rasa-madhuri, have become essential to celebrations, festivals, and personal milestones. The Rajkarnikar family has preserved traditional recipes and techniques, avoiding artificial colors and preservatives. Divakar dai recalled how his father and grandfather would personally deliver sweets to customers who couldn’t visit the shop, a tradition of personal touch that continues to this day.

To adapt to modern times, the family has invested in new equipment, including cold rooms to ensure freshness. Divakar dai’s son, who holds an MBA from Australia, has returned to help blend tradition with modernity for the shop’s continued success. Ram Bhandar also plays a vital role in local empowerment, employing 18 people, 40 percent of whom are women.

Despite competition from Indian sweets and unhealthy industry practices, the Rajkarnikar family’s commitment to quality and tradition remains strong. There is potential for Ram Bhandar to expand internationally, bringing Nepali sweets to a global audience through franchising or establishing outlets in Nepali communities abroad. Ram Bhandar’s story is a remarkable journey of tradition, quality, and cultural significance. For over 175 years, the Rajkarnikar family has maintained a legacy that spans generations, making Ram Bhandar a beloved institution in Nepal.

Divakar dai says, “Nepali people remember Ram Bhandar no matter where they live. Even today, Nepalis living abroad order sweets online for Dashain, Tihar, or on Aama/Ba ko Mukh Herne Din (Mother’s Day and Father’s Day respectively), and we deliver them to their loved ones. When they return to Nepal, they visit our shop, and a taste of jeri swari brings back childhood nostalgia or memories of student life.”

Ram Bhandar’s legacy is built on the love and trust of its customers. The business isn’t just about making money. It’s about continuing a 175-year tradition and four generations of dedication, moving forward with moral responsibility. Franchising opportunities and establishing outlets in Nepali communities abroad could be viable paths for growth.

Ram Bhandar’s journey from a small home business to Nepal’s oldest sweet shop is a remarkable story of tradition, quality, and cultural significance. Its sweets are a connection to the past, a celebration of the present, and a promise for the future. With a rich history and unwavering commitment to excellence, Ram Bhandar remains an integral part of Nepal’s cultural and culinary landscape.

Baral is a UK-based R&D chef

Nepal is a fusion of cultures, boasting one of the most vibrant food scenes in the world. Our cuisine is a rich, diverse culinary heritage, not just a blend of different cultures but a delightful mix of flavors, colors, and aromas. Every region in Nepal has its unique dishes, and even within the same cultural family, the food can vary.

Most people from the hills of Nepal are familiar with ‘masaura,’ which are fermented sun-dried vegetable balls made from various minced vegetables and black lentils. However, many are not familiar with ‘biriya’, a pride of Mithila. Recently, during my visit to Nepal, I had the chance to taste biriya in Kathmandu. I loved it.

Biriya is a dry green vegetable dish eaten during the rainy season. Like masaura, women gather green vegetables, let them wither slightly, wrap them in black gram paste, and let them dry during the winter. The dried biriya is stored in a dry place and used as an alternative vegetable during the rainy season when fresh vegetables are scarce.

This practice follows the saying wrap and dry vegetables when they are found in abundance. People collect mustard leaves, broadleaf mustard, and grass peas, let them wither, and wrap them in black gram flour paste.

Mithila food is gaining popularity, but do you know what Mithila food is? Or where Mithila is? It’s not just another form of ‘dal-bhat and tarkari.’ Mithila lies in the foothills of the Sivalik or Churia range of the outer Himalayas and is fed by many rivers. The river water adds fertility to the soil, making it ideal for agriculture and fish farming. Every village has multiple ponds for fish farming. Mithila has its own natural adaptation of land and climate.

While browsing the internet, I found that in the 11th century, Jyotirishwar Thakur wrote two books, ‘Varnaratnakar’ and ‘Prakriti Paingalam’, in which he explained Maithil cuisine, especially the love for fish and curd. The great Mithila poet Vidyapati of the 13th century is also said to have mentioned different Maithil foods in his books.

Some friends from Mithila have shared a famous proverb: ‘Maachh, paan, aur makhaan, e teen ta aichh Mithila ke jaan,’ which means ‘fish, betel, and water-lily seeds are the most special delicacies of Mithila’.

The Maithil plate, or thali, includes rice, wheat, fish, and sweet dishes, using various spices, herbs, and natural edibles. No meal within the Maithil community is considered complete without leafy dishes known as saag. Our cuisine celebrates saag: bathua, laal saag, patua saag, genhari, karmi, and sariso saag. Leafy curries like colocasia curry (arikanchan or kanch in Maithili) or leafy fritters (tarua) made from ivy gourd leaves or pumpkin flowers are favorite accompaniments.

Returning to biriya, it is made from different leafy vegetables like bathua and methi, dipped in urad and besan paste, and sun-dried. Biriya pods can also be made from khesari saag (Indian grass pea leaves, Lathyrus sativus). Although the sale and storage of grass pea seeds are banned in Nepal and India due to their neurotoxin content, the leaves are safe and still used in rural kitchens to make biriya.

Here’s how to make biriya at home. It’s a recipe I learned when I first tried biriya in Kathmandu recently.

Ingredients:

10 to 15 Biriya pods

300 g potatoes, chopped

3 tbsp mustard paste

1 tbsp garlic paste

1 tsp turmeric powder

Chilli powder, to taste

1 tsp mustard seeds

2 bay leaves

2 tbsp mustard oil

Method:

Heat mustard oil in a pan, stir-fry the biriya pods lightly, and set them aside.

Add more oil, mustard seeds, and bay leaves to the pan. When the seeds begin to crackle, add the potatoes and fry.

Add mustard and garlic paste, then fry with the potatoes. Add turmeric, salt, and chili powder.

Cook for a few minutes, then add two to three glasses of water. Stir gently, cover, and simmer until it reaches your desired consistency.

Serve your Maithil-style biriya curry with hot rice. Sliced onions on the side make a great accompaniment.

Enjoy the flavors of Mithila with this traditional dish.

The author is UK-based research and development chef

Generation Alpha might ask, “What is janti bakhro?” Generation Z will probably say, “I’ve heard about it but never tasted it.” For Generation X (1965–1980), the term itself brings nostalgia. Janti bakhro is a vanishing tradition, a culinary culture that faded during Nepal’s ten-year-long Maoist war.

 Imagine hot rice on a leaf plate and cooked goat meat—so hot that it burns your fingers and tongue. The memory of eating this delicious dish while the sauce leaked from the leaf plate remains vivid for many. Today, the custom of eating janti bakhro has largely disappeared. Instead, from villages to cities, wedding parties are now grand affairs with elaborate feasts.

 In the past, meat was a rare treat in most homes, typically cooked only during Dashain. However, when there was a wedding in a farmer’s household, a male goat would be slaughtered, and people from three to four villages would be invited. The goat meat would be used to prepare large pots of meat soup. This soup, along with rice, was served in leaf plates. As the rice soaked up the soup, the leaf plates would often leak, adding to the fun of eating. Each guest would receive a small piece of meat, a rare delicacy for many.

 When I was eight years old, my father was away, so I often attended weddings, rituals, and celebrations on his behalf as the eldest son. I still remember a particular wedding in Gorkha during my school holidays. It was a night wedding and a bus was arranged for the occasion. After the wedding ceremony, our bus made a stop, and all the janti (wedding guests) came together to prepare a simple meal of rice and goat curry.

 There were more than 150 hungry people but we somehow managed to cook everything within an hour. To ensure there was enough for everyone, we added a lot of soup to the goat curry. Instead of the usual spices, we used mustard cake (pina) to thicken the curry, which intrigued me as I was already interested in cooking.

 The experience of eating janti bakhro was unforgettable. The rice was cooked in a traditional Nepali pot called a ‘taulo’ or ‘khadkulo’ used for special occasions. We were served steaming hot rice and runny goat curry on leaf plates. The curry was spicy and aromatic with mustard, and the rice was overcooked. The challenge was to eat quickly before the sauce leaked from the leaf plates. Despite the haste, the flavors were incredible, and the meal was deeply satisfying, especially knowing it would be my last for the next 18 hours.

 This experience, which happened 36 years ago, is etched in my memory. The sights, aromas, and tastes are as clear as if it happened yesterday. This janti bakhro culture inspired me profoundly. I believe this dish should be featured on every restaurant menu in Nepal. It’s simple, easy to cook, and incredibly tasty. It represents a piece of our heritage that should not be forgotten. Let’s bring this traditional dish into the mainstream and celebrate its unique flavors and the communal spirit of cooking and eating together.

 Ingredients

780 gm goat meat (mixed and with bone)

120 ml mustard oil

5 gm fenugreek seeds

80 gm onion, finely sliced

20 gm garlic-ginger paste

120 gm tomato

5 gm turmeric powder

7.5 gm cumin powder

7.5 gm red chili powder

5 gm nutmeg powder

1.5 liters water

Mustard paste (to thicken)

100 gm mustard cake (also called Pina)

Salt to taste

10 ml lemon juice

Coriander leaves (roughly cut, for garnish)

 Instructions

Heat mustard oil in a pan and add fenugreek seeds. Let them sputter until they turn dark. Add finely sliced onions and goat meat, and sauté until dry. Add salt and garlic-ginger paste. When the mixture turns golden brown, add all the powdered spices and tomatoes. Cook until the tomatoes melt and form a thick sauce. Add water and cook until the meat is tender. Thicken the curry with mustard cake. Just before serving, squeeze lemon juice and garnish with coriander leaves.

 The author is UK-based research and development chef

For years, I had dreamed of tasting ‘ghungi’, a traditional Tharu delicacy made from freshwater snails. Growing up in Pokhara, in western Nepal, my culinary experiences were rooted in my family’s business in Malekhu, famous for its fish dishes like fried fish and ‘jhol machha’. Despite studying in Kathmandu and experiencing diverse cuisines, I had never encountered the unique flavors of the Tharu kitchen.

My culinary dream finally came true in a Tharu village in Chitwan. As a seasoned chef, I was excited to immerse myself in this authentic experience. I sought out a Tharu cook known for her traditional recipes and asked her to prepare the most authentic ghungi possible. She graciously agreed, and I watched every step of the preparation, eager to learn and absorb the process.

The meticulous cleaning of the ghungi was the first step, ensuring no mud or debris remained. She then heated mustard oil in a pan, adding ginger-garlic paste until it turned golden brown, creating an aromatic base. Chopped onions and green chilies followed, cooking until the onions became translucent. Tomatoes, turmeric, red chili powder, cumin, and coriander powders were added next, forming a rich and flavorful mixture. The cleaned ghungi was then added to the pan, stirred well, and simmered with water until tender.

I observed closely, noting each step and technique. The only deviation from tradition was the addition of store-bought garam masala, which she believed enhanced the flavor. While I appreciated her efforts, I made a mental note to modify this in my own version. If I were to recreate this dish, I would avoid the garam masala, opting instead for a blend of cumin, clove, and pipla (long pepper) to maintain an authentic Tharu flavor profile.

When I finally tasted the dish, the flavors exceeded my expectations. The ghungi had a fantastic, clean taste that was both memorable and satisfying. It was a culinary revelation, far surpassing any preconceived notions I had. The dish’s simplicity and depth of flavor left a lasting impression on me.

Before leaving, I expressed my gratitude to the cook by offering her a small tip and heartfelt thanks. Her willingness to share her culinary heritage was a gift, and her skill in preparing ghungi was evident in every bite. This experience solidified my desire to feature ghungi on the menu if I ever opened a restaurant in Nepal. It would not only showcase a unique aspect of Tharu cuisine but also honor the authenticity and tradition behind this exceptional dish.

This encounter with ghungi was a dream come true and a highlight of my culinary journey. It reminded me of the rich diversity of Nepal’s food culture and the importance of preserving and celebrating traditional recipes. As a chef, this experience inspired me to continue exploring and promoting the incredible flavors of our heritage.

Ghungi, a traditional delicacy in Tharu cuisine, holds significant cultural and nutritional value. This dish, made from freshwater snails, is deeply rooted in the culinary practices of the Tharu people of Nepal. The preparation of ghungi involves meticulous cleaning and cooking with a blend of spices like turmeric, red chili powder, and garam masala, often in mustard oil. Popular recipes include ghungi curry and spicy fried ghungi, both celebrated for their robust flavors and traditional methods of preparation. Spicy fried ghungi is a popular snack or appetizer in Tharu cuisine, often enjoyed with a side of tangy dipping sauce.

The cultural importance of ghungi in Tharu society cannot be overstated. It’s a staple during festivals, ceremonies, and family gatherings, symbolizing unity and tradition. The process of collecting and preparing ghungi is a communal activity, reinforcing social bonds and preserving cultural heritage. Consuming ghungi is seen as a way to honor ancestors and stay connected to cultural roots.

Nutritionally, ghungi is a powerhouse. It’s rich in protein, essential amino acids, and minerals like iron, calcium, and magnesium. Low in fat and high in omega-3 fatty acids, ghungi offers significant health benefits, contributing to a balanced diet. The traditional preparation methods help retain these nutritional benefits, making it a valued component of the Tharu diet.

Ghungi is not just a dish but a cultural emblem for the Tharu people, embodying their traditions, values, and culinary heritage. Its preparation and consumption are deeply ingrained in the social and cultural fabric of the community, making it an important aspect of Tharu food culture.

Whether enjoyed as a hearty curry or a spicy fried snack, Ghungi continues to be a beloved and significant delicacy in Tharu cuisine. The recipes and cultural practices surrounding Ghungi offer a glimpse into the rich and diverse heritage of the Tharu people, highlighting the importance of food in preserving and celebrating cultural identity.

The author is UK-based research and development chef

The campaign to make Changunarayan municipality in the Bhaktapur district an avocado city has continued this year. As part of the ‘Changunarayan – Avocado City campaign,’ which started last year, free avocado seedlings are being distributed to city residents again. Last year, the campaign, which focuses on planting programs during the rainy season, distributed about 7,000 avocado plants free of charge to all city wards.

Before the Agricultural Research Center opened at Pakhribas in Dhankuta, the British brought avocados to Nepal during a feasibility study in 2014. Five years ago, Dhankuta Municipality declared the city the avocado capital to encourage commercial cultivation. The municipality conducted a baseline survey to promote commercial avocado farming and then worked on declaring the Avocado Capital, establishing an avocado image, organizing a festival, and improving nurseries.

However, these campaigners haven’t considered the relationship between avocado trees and water. Yes, avocados are in high demand, but growing them uses a lot of water. According to the Water Footprint Network, it takes about 283 liters of water to produce one kilogram of avocados. This water is from irrigation, not rainfall. On average, about 70 liters of applied water are needed to grow just one avocado.

Research by Bio Resources indicates that avocado plantations significantly impact water resources. Intensive irrigation of plantations can deplete local groundwater, threatening the water supply of local populations and farmers. The expansion of avocado plantations can lead to competition with local food crops for water, impacting the food security of local communities. Excessive use of fertilizers and pesticides in avocado orchards can pollute water and affect the quality of drinking water and aquatic ecosystems.

In 2023, Kenya exported 4,050 kilograms of avocados to Nepal. In 2021, Nepal imported avocados worth nearly $350,000, a 100 percent increase from the previous year. From July 2023 to May 2024, Nepal imported 177,260 kilograms of avocados worth Rs 786,680,000 from Uganda. This generated Rs 25,272,000 in revenue. The average price of imported avocados is Rs 587 per kilogram.

Why are avocados so popular in Nepal? Are Nepali people becoming wealthier or more health-conscious? Avocados, originally from Mexico, have become a favorite worldwide, including in Nepal.

Avocados are popular due to their nutritional benefits. It is rich in heart-healthy monounsaturated fats. It’s packed with potassium, folate, and fiber, essential for heart health and contains vitamin C, vitamin E, and lutein, which protect cells and reduce inflammation. Despite being calorie-dense, the fiber and fats in avocados help you feel full and support weight management.

The story of avocados in Nepal begins in the United Kingdom. European researchers and visitors introduced avocados to Nepal through the UK-funded Pakhribas Agriculture Research Centre nearly three decades ago. Since then, this nutrition-rich fruit has been embraced and celebrated in the region.

In the 1950s, avocados were introduced to India, starting in Kerala. By the 1980s, cultivation spread to Maharashtra and Karnataka. Farmers saw the economic potential and growing demand for this nutritious fruit. Nepal, with its varied landscapes, found avocados adaptable to different climates. In recent years, avocados have gained popularity in the hilly regions of Nepal, especially in Dhankuta. They are now widely available in local markets and are used in traditional dishes, salads, and smoothies.

Besides avocados, other fruits like kiwi are gaining popularity in Nepal. These fruits offer incredible health benefits and are changing the nutrition landscape in the country.

Avocados are more than just tasty fruits. They are a nutritional powerhouse. Including avocados in your diet can benefit your health in many ways. Whether mashed on toast or blended into a smoothie, avocados are a delicious and healthy addition to your meals. As you enjoy these benefits, remember the environmental impact and the cost involved. Stay healthy, stay vibrant, and keep exploring the wonders of nutrition.

My connection with avocados

About 32 years ago, a Nepali Burmese opened a hotel called Avocado in Hetauda, which sparked much discussion due to its unique name. More recently, my company was one of the largest users of avocados, catering to 81 airlines and some of the world’s biggest events, such as the FIFA World Cup, Formula 1, Euro Cup, and ATP Tennis. Avocados are always popular on our menus because they are healthy, versatile, and vegan-friendly, and we always include one or two avocado dishes. Personally, I love avocado as a spread and have developed my own special recipe called ‘Thicheko Avocado Chutney.’

Thicheko Avocado Chutney

Ingredients

•       3 ripe avocados

•       1 lemon, juiced

•       1 teaspoon salt

•       1 diced onion

•       3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander

•       2 tomatoes, diced

•       1 teaspoon minced garlic

•       1 pinch timmur pepper (optional)

•       Raw mustard oil

•       Roasted sesame seeds (optional)

Instructions

Cut the avocados in half, remove the pits, and scoop the flesh into a mixing bowl.

Use a fork to mash the avocados to your desired consistency.

Add the lemon juice and salt to the mashed avocados. Mix well to combine.

Add the diced onion, chopped cilantro, diced tomatoes, and minced garlic to the bowl. Stir everything together.

If you like a bit of a Nepali touch, add a pinch of ground timmur pepper and mix it in.

Add a drizzle of raw mustard oil.

Taste the chutney and adjust the seasoning as needed, adding more lime juice or salt to taste.

Serve immediately as a side dish or cover with plastic wrap (pressed directly onto the surface of the chutney) and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Sometimes, I finish with a roasted sesame seed topping for variety.

The author is UK-based research and development chef

As a chef, my culinary journey has frequently brought me face-to-face with the versatile soybean, an ingredient deeply embedded in the culinary traditions of various Asian cuisines. Whether dining at a Japanese restaurant or exploring the diverse flavors of Pan-Asian establishments, steamed soybeans, known as edamame, often grace the table as a delightful appetizer.

These tender, young soybeans, typically served with a sprinkling of sea salt, provide a subtly sweet and nutty flavor that perfectly complements the delicate yet profound essence of Japanese cuisine. The simplicity of steamed edamame, combined with its nutritional benefits, exemplifies the elegance of Japanese culinary traditions, where minimalism meets flavor.

In stark contrast, my experiences at Nepali restaurants, particularly the traditional ‘bhatti pasal’ (local taverns), have introduced me to a more robust and richly flavored application of soybeans. Here, soybeans are often marinated in a blend of Nepali spices and herbs, creating a dish that is a harmonious balance of sour, hot, and naturally sweet flavors. This preparation, deeply rooted in Nepali culinary practices, highlights the soybean’s adaptability to different spice profiles.

The marinated soybeans, infused with ingredients like timmur (Sichuan pepper), turmeric, chili, and lemon, offer a tantalizing taste experience that is both complex and satisfying. This dish not only showcases the soybean’s versatility but also underscores its importance in regional cuisine, providing a nutritious and flavorful addition to the diverse Nepali food landscape.

The historical journey of soybeans, from their domestication in the 11th century B.C. China to their pivotal role in global agriculture today, mirrors their journey through the culinary world. Soybeans were introduced to the American colonies in 1765 as ‘Chinese vetches,’ but it wasn’t until 1804 that the term ‘soybeans’ appeared in American literature.

Initially grown for forage in the United States, soybeans' significance shifted dramatically during World War II. The disruption of trade routes led to an urgent need for edible fats and oils, propelling soybeans to prominence as a vital crop. Post-World War II, soybean production expanded into the Corn Belt, and by the mid-20th century, the United States had become a dominant force in global soybean production.

Today, the soybean’s journey continues as it adapts to new culinary and agricultural landscapes. From the edamame bowls in Japanese eateries to the spice-laden dishes of Nepali bhatti pasals, soybeans have transcended their agricultural origins to become a staple in kitchens worldwide. This humble legume’s ability to harmonize with diverse flavor profiles and meet various dietary needs ensures its continued relevance and popularity in both traditional and modern culinary practices.

As an R&D chef, my culinary exploration often leads me to uncover hidden gems within traditional cuisines. Bhatmas sadeko, a lesser-known but cherished dish from Nepal, holds immense potential to become a signature starter or appetizer in Nepali restaurants and among the Nepali diaspora. This nutritious, gluten-free, and vegan salad can easily transcend cultural boundaries and establish itself as a global delicacy, much like Indian chaat. Here, I present a refined recipe for bhatmas sadeko, along with its health benefits and its promising future in global dining.

Bhatmas sadeko has the potential to become a global favorite, akin to the widespread popularity of Indian chaat. Its versatility and adaptability make it a perfect fit for modern, health-conscious dining trends. Here’s why it could succeed on the global stage:

Nutritional appeal: As more people seek nutritious, plant-based options, bhatmas sadeko offers a tasty, protein-rich alternative that can cater to diverse dietary preferences.

Customizable flavor: The salad’s core ingredients can be easily adapted to local tastes and available spices, making it a flexible addition to menus worldwide.

Ease of preparation: With simple ingredients and straightforward preparation, bhatmas sadeko can be efficiently integrated into restaurant menus and home cooking routines.

Cultural representation: Introducing bhatmas sadeko to a broader audience helps showcase the rich culinary heritage of Nepal, promoting cultural diversity in global cuisine.

Bhatmas Sadeko is not only delicious but also packed with health benefits. It’s high in protein. Soybeans are a complete source of protein, providing all essential amino acids necessary for body functions. It’s rich in micronutrients. The salad is a powerhouse of vitamins and minerals, including iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, Vitamin K, and zinc. It’s also gluten-free and vegan and thus suitable for people with gluten intolerance and those following a vegan diet. Best of all, it’s good for heart health. The unsaturated fats in soybeans can help reduce bad cholesterol levels, promoting heart health.

Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1 cup dried soybeans
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 medium tomato, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 inch ginger, minced
• 2 green chilies, finely chopped (adjust to taste)
• 1 tsp timmur (Nepali Sichuan peppercorn), crushed
• 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• 1/2 tsp red chili powder (optional)
• 2 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• Salt to taste

Instructions:

Preparation of soybeans

Soak the dried soybeans in water overnight. Drain and rinse the soybeans. Pat them dry with a kitchen towel.

Pan frying soybeans

Heat vegetable oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the soybeans and stir-fry them until they turn golden brown and crispy. This should take about 10-12 minutes. Remove the fried soybeans from the pan and let them cool.

Mixing the salad

In a mixing bowl, combine the chopped onion, tomato, garlic, ginger, and green chilies. Add the crushed timmur, turmeric powder, cumin powder, and red chili powder (if using). Mix well. Add the cooled fried soybeans to the mixture. Drizzle with lemon juice and season with salt to taste. Toss everything together until well combined.

Serving

Garnish with fresh cilantro. Serve the bhatmas sadeko as an appetizer or side dish. It pairs wonderfully with crispy chips or as part of a larger Nepali meal platter.

Baral is a UK based R&D chef

Have you heard about Katiya mutton? Of course, you have. But have you heard about Katahariya town in the Rautahat district? Probably not. Despite being the birthplace of the Katiya mutton recipe, Katahariya has struggled to brand its culinary heritage properly. As a result, what was originally known as Katiya mutton is now gaining fame under the name Champaran meat.

Katiya mutton is a traditional dish featuring slow-cooked goat meat prepared in a ‘handi’, a type of clay pot. The meat is marinated with onions, garlic, and a blend of whole spices including ginger, coriander, bay leaf, cloves, dried chili, red chili powder, turmeric, cumin, and mustard oil. This cooking method and the unique combination of spices impart a distinct flavor to the dish.

A few years ago, Champaran meat was virtually unknown. Today, Indian chefs claim the dish originated in Ghorasahan, a village near the Indo-Nepal border in East Champaran. Renowned Indian journalist Vir Sanghvi once wrote about Champaran meat, quoting famous chef Manish Mehrotra, who is originally from Bihar. Mehrotra said, “When I was growing up in Patna, I had never even heard of this dish. Even when I traveled in Bihar, it never turned up. Yes, there were dishes like taash kabab. But this Champaran meat? Never.”

This new identity for Katiya mutton seems to be a result of rebranding. Despite this, many chefs and food writers agree that the best Champaran meat is made with Nepali goat, which is known for its superior quality.

For centuries, the people of Maithil, Bhojpuri, Rajbanshi, and Tharu communities have been cooking Katiya mutton. This dish, steeped in tradition, is prepared by slow-cooking the mutton in clay pots over a coal bed. This method is essential to achieve the dish’s rich, smoky flavor.

The transition from Katiya mutton to Champaran meat is a tale of missed branding opportunities. Despite the dish’s origins in Katahariya, the lack of proper marketing has led to its association with Champaran. This shift underscores the importance of recognizing and preserving culinary heritage.

Making Katiya mutton

Below is a detailed recipe for Katiya mutton, intended to serve three people. If you want to make it for six, just double the ingredients.

Ingredients:

•       1 head of garlic, 5-6 pieces

•       50 gm ginger paste

•       2-3 pieces dried red chili

•       1-2 bay leaves

•       4 pieces black pepper

•       2 cloves

•       1 or ½ inch cinnamon stick

•       2 cardamom pods

•       1 tablespoon coriander seeds

•       1 tablespoon cumin seeds

•       300-400 gm chopped onion

•       1 tablespoon turmeric powder

•       1 tablespoon garam masala

•       ½ tablespoon fennel seeds

•       Salt to taste

•       500 gm medium-sized mutton pieces

•       5-6 tablespoons mustard oil

•       1 tablespoon butter

Instructions:

Prepare the clay pot. Make sure your pot is of suitable size and has a lid. Immerse it in water for more than 20 minutes.

Season the pot. After soaking, dry the pot slightly by heating and apply a thin layer of mustard oil inside the pot.

Add Aromatics. Pour the garlic and ginger paste into the pot along with the dried red chili.

Add the bay leaf, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, chopped onion, turmeric powder, garam masala, fennel seeds, and salt.

Add the Mutton. Drizzle five to six tablespoons of mustard oil over the meat.

Cover the pot with its lid and place it over burnt hot coal. Cook for approximately two hours, stirring the meat two to three times during the cooking process.

While cooking, add a head of garlic and a spoonful of butter to enhance the flavor.

After two hours, remove the lid and check if the meat is tender. If not, cover and cook for another five to10 minutes. Cook uncovered for the last five minutes.

Finally, garnish the dish with fresh green coriander. Serve with salad, pickle, beaten rice, or roti.

The unique preparation method and the distinctive taste of Katiya mutton deserve to be celebrated. As more people discover the rich flavors of this traditional dish, it is crucial to acknowledge its true origins in Katahariya. By doing so, we can ensure that the cultural and culinary heritage of this region is preserved for future generations.

Moving forward, there is a pressing need to re-establish the connection between Katiya mutton and Katahariya. This can be achieved through increased awareness, proper branding, and the celebration of this dish in its true form. By highlighting its authentic origins and the traditional methods of preparation, Katiya mutton can reclaim its rightful place in the culinary world.

In conclusion, while Champaran meat continues to gain popularity, it is essential to remember and honor its roots in Katahariya. The rich history and unique preparation of Katiya mutton make it a dish worth celebrating and preserving. I wish we could rebrand our Katiya mutton and share it with the world.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

When the British colonized much of South Asia, they never thought that one day South Asian food, particularly curry, would conquer the hearts and minds of all the Brits. The colonized world could never have imagined that one day, a chef from never-colonized Nepal would surprise everyone by entering a curry competition and presenting ‘Jhol Momo’ as an appetizer.

In a remarkable achievement for Nepali cuisine, Chef Saroj Thapaliya secured the second runner-up position at the prestigious Asian Curry Awards, representing Panas Restaurant in London. The awards ceremony, which took place a few days ago at West London University, celebrated the culinary talents of Asian and Oriental chefs from across the UK.

The top prize of the night was awarded to Jeevan Lal from Babur Restaurant in Forest Hill, London. Dev Bishwal from The Cook’s Tale in Canterbury took the first runner-up spot. Chef Saroj wowed the nine-member judging panel with his expertly crafted dishes: Jhol Momo, an appetizer, and Farsi Masu, a main course featuring pumpkin and goat meat curry. His mastery of these traditional Nepali dishes earned him the title of Best Nepali Chef of the Year 2024.

The Asian & Oriental Chef Awards is a national competition open to professional chefs working in restaurants and takeaways representing cuisines from Bangladesh, Burma, China, the Philippines, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Middle East, Pakistan, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Turkey, and Vietnam. The competition is organized by the Asian Catering Federation and judged by a panel of respected chefs, including Tony Khan, Thomas Chan, Rajesh Suri, Steve Gomes, George Shaw, Shahagir Farouk, Riya Amber Tesia, Ken Wan, Teddy KC Chan, and myself.

As one of the judges, I expressed pride in seeing Nepali cuisine gaining global recognition. Competitions like the Asian Curry Awards are crucial for promoting dishes like momo as international symbols of Nepali culinary heritage. This year’s event saw nine chefs, selected from numerous contestants across the UK, showcasing their talents in the finals.

For me, the event held particular significance. After nearly 25 years of dedicated service in the curry industry, both locally and globally, it was a great honor to serve as a judge at the Asian Curry Awards. Often regarded as the Oscars of the Asian restaurant industry in the UK, this event not only celebrates culinary excellence but also underscores the vital role of Asian cuisine in British society.

Reflecting on my roots, I’m reminded of my humble beginnings in Malekhu, where I grew up enjoying my mama’s famous ‘aloo chop’. The journey from being the nephew of a beloved street food vendor to standing in the British Parliament as a recognized culinary expert is nothing short of remarkable. It’s a story of dedication, hard work, and the unyielding support of my community.

Curry has become an integral part of British culture, yet its roots extend far beyond India. Cuisines from Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka have significantly contributed to the rich tapestry of flavors that curry represents today. Notably, Thai curry has set a global standard, much like the distinctive curries from Nepal, prepared by talented Nepali chefs alongside their Bangladeshi, Pakistani, and Sri Lankan counterparts.

The Asian Curry Award celebrates this diversity and aims to empower and elevate the profile of Nepali cuisine on the global dining table. Curry has become a cornerstone of the UK’s culinary landscape, making a substantial contribution to the economy and influencing global food trends. The UK’s curry industry, valued at over five billion pounds annually, operates more than 10,000 restaurants, providing employment to approximately 100,000 people.

Having spent a quarter-century in the curry business globally, particularly within Indian, Arabic, and Oriental cuisines, I’m now incredibly proud to see Nepali curry gaining recognition on the same platform. The rise of Nepali curry is not only making a significant difference to the UK's economy but also contributing to local employment and enhancing British civilization through its rich cultural influence. It is a testament to the dynamic and inclusive nature of the UK's culinary scene that Nepali curry, alongside other Asian flavors, is celebrated and enjoyed, further enriching the nation's diverse gastronomic heritage.

Being a judge at the Asian Curry Awards was a significant milestone. This role not only recognized my contributions to the industry but also highlighted the importance of Asian cuisine in British culture. The experience of judging alongside legends of the curry industry and representing Nepali cuisine was incredibly rewarding.

Throughout my career, I have had the privilege of taking British-style curry around the world, embedding it as an integral part of British culture. Whether it was crafting menus for international sporting events or cooking for elite audiences, each experience contributed to my growth and the promotion of our culinary heritage.

The Asian Curry Awards serve as an inspiration of excellence, showcasing the best in the industry. This year, the competition was intense, with talented chefs from across the UK competing for top honors. The event celebrated individual achievements and highlighted the collective resilience and innovation of the Asian catering community.

Chef Saroj Thapaliya’s achievement at the Asian Curry Awards is a testament to the growing recognition of Nepali cuisine on the global stage. The event celebrated not only individual excellence but also the collective strength and innovation of the Asian culinary community. As the industry continues to evolve, initiatives like the ACF’s support program will be crucial in ensuring that the rich heritage of Asian cuisine continues to thrive and enrich British culture.

Baral is a UK-based R&D chef