The heritage of mustard oil in Nepali cuisine
For centuries, indigenous edible oils have been an integral part of our culture, deeply intertwined with our culinary heritage. Among these oils, mustard oil, extracted by traditional cold-pressed methods, has played a pivotal role in our kitchens. This time-tested technique not only sustained small-scale processing but also provided employment for generations, fostering local procurement and distribution networks with minimal carbon footprint. It was a sustainable system, creating a virtuous cycle for our communities.
However, in the name of health benefits and the pursuit of ‘heart-healthy’ options, two unnatural fats—Vanaspati ghee and refined oil—were introduced to South Asia. These newcomers had a profound impact on our socio-cultural cooking and consumption patterns.
Vanaspati ghee, once marketed as a healthier alternative under the name ‘Dalda,’ underwent a transformation. Edible oil was hydrogenated, a process that involved adding hydrogen to convert liquid unsaturated fats into solid saturated fats, resulting in vanaspati ghee. It resembled ghee in appearance and boasted a higher melting point, making it ideal for deep frying. On the other hand, refined oils, touted as purer and capable of ‘producing good cholesterol,’ were virtually odorless, colorless, and tasteless. They were primarily solvent-extracted.
This introduction was a deliberate attempt to undermine indigenous and unprocessed oils while promoting the importation of less healthy options, including Palm oil, one of the unhealthiest oils globally, and other refined oils. This shift nearly led to the extinction of our ‘Kol’ or cold pressing mills and eroded the traditional knowledge of mustard oil production.
Fortunately, a new awareness is emerging among Nepali, prompting them to return to their roots and embrace the use of mustard oil. Mustard oil possesses a distinct and robust flavor with pungent and slightly bitter notes. This unique flavor complements the spices and herbs commonly used in pickles, resulting in a well-rounded taste profile that is challenging to replicate with other oils.
In traditional Newari cuisine, quick-marinated delicacies like choyela, kachila, and aloo cha rely on mustard oil to balance the flavors of cumin, garlic, and ginger. These dishes require no additional seasoning when the perfect combination of sourness and heat is achieved with salt and mustard oil.
In pickle recipes with only a few ingredients, the quality of each component becomes paramount. Using pure, high-quality mustard oil ensures that it enhances the overall flavor and aroma of the pickle. Adulterated mustard oil mixed with other oils can negatively impact the taste and aroma. Back in the day, most mustard oil was locally produced, guaranteeing its purity.
Mustard oil offers numerous health benefits. For centuries, it has been used to alleviate colds, coughs, and respiratory issues. Inhaling steam with mustard oil can clear respiratory congestion, and massaging a mixture of mustard oil, garlic, and ajwain on the feet and chest may provide relief from cold and cough.
Mustard oil contains glucosinolates, which contribute to its antibiotic, fungicidal, and cancer-prevention properties. It may protect against colorectal and gastrointestinal cancers. Allyl isothiocyanate, found in mustard oil, acts as an antifungal agent and can protect food from fungal growth.
The nutritional profile of mustard oil may support the health and strength of red blood cells. When applied topically, mustard oil can cause a warming sensation and increase blood flow, potentially alleviating pain. It has traditionally been used as a rubefacient and irritant. Some individuals use mustard oil topically to relieve joint pain and arthritis symptoms, thanks to its warming and soothing effects.
Mustard oil is believed to boost immunity, possibly due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It’s also considered suitable for diabetes recipes due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it’s said to stimulate the appetite and may slow the growth of cancer cells.
One of the remarkable qualities of mustard oil is its ability to act as a natural preservative for pickles. It helps bind the spices and dried fruits together, allowing them to absorb the seasoning, which contributes to the authentic flavor of the pickle. Mustard oil also contains compounds such as allyl isothiocyanate, which possess powerful antimicrobial, antifungal, and antibacterial properties. The oil forms a protective coating, sealing off access to oxygen and preventing spoilage, thereby extending the shelf life of the pickle.
Pure mustard oil has low water activity, which means it contains minimal dissolved water. This property inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungi, preserving the quality and flavor of the pickle.
Roasted mustard oil, known as ‘bhuteko tori ko tel’, is another indigenous variety produced in different mustard oil pressing mills in Kathmandu Valley. Unlike the cold-pressed variety, roasted oil undergoes a dry-roasting process that softens its raw mustard flavor, resulting in a dark amber-colored oil. This variation is particularly used in dishes like choyela.
Mustard oil production in Nepal is not just an industry; it’s a way of life. It celebrates agriculture, culture, and culinary traditions. The significance of mustard oil in Nepali households and its enduring presence in the heart of Nepali cuisine cannot be understated.
Mustard oil is not merely an ingredient but a culinary and cultural treasure of Nepal. It enhances flavor, preserves pickles, provides health benefits, and carries cultural significance in many culinary traditions, particularly in Nepal. Its unique qualities make it an essential component in the pickling process, and its role goes beyond the kitchen.
Mustard oil is a symbol of our heritage, connecting us to our roots and reminding us of the rich traditions that continue to shape our culinary experiences. As we celebrate the resurgence of mustard oil in our kitchens, we also celebrate our cultural heritage and the flavors that make Nepali cuisine truly special.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
The secrets of airplane curry
“Does airplane food taste different from food on the ground?” During my 16-year career in airline catering, I’ve been asked this question numerous times. The answer is yes, it tastes different, and the reason behind this difference lies in air pressure.
Celebrity chefs like Gordon Ramsay and the late Anthony Bourdain often criticized airplane food. But the truth is it’s not that bad. The quality of airplane food has improved significantly over the years.
Airline catering has come a long way since its beginnings in the 1970s. Back then, airlines primarily focused on providing basic meals to passengers, often lacking culinary appeal.
However, significant changes and advancements have taken place in airline catering. One notable change is the collaboration with chefs to enhance the quality of in-flight dining. These chefs bring their expertise and creativity to design menus that offer a higher level of culinary sophistication, transforming airline meals from basic to gourmet.
In the world of airplane food and catering, one popular choice stands out—curry. This choice is not only a favorite but also holds a connection to Nepali cuisine. A common practice in airline catering is the chilled-reheat process. This method is used to ensure food safety and maintain quality during transportation and storage. It enables a wider variety of meal options and ensures that food can be prepared in advance.
The process involves cooking the meals, quickly chilling them, and then reheating them on board, preserving their flavors and textures. But this process is more challenging than preparing à la carte meals at a restaurant.
Curry has earned its place as a popular choice for airline meals for several reasons. First, curries are known for their bold and intense flavors, which can hold their own even at high altitudes, where taste perceptions can be muted. The spices and aromatic ingredients in curries add depth and complexity to the meal.
Also, many curry dishes can maintain their textures even after reheating, making them ideal for the chilled-reheat process used in airline catering. Some even argue that curry tastes better on an airplane.
Additionally, curries are highly versatile and can be adapted to accommodate various dietary preferences and restrictions. This versatility allows airlines to offer a range of options to passengers.
Curries are beloved by people from diverse cultural backgrounds, making them a menu item with broad appeal to a global passenger base. Curry dishes come in a wide range of flavors and ingredients, catering to various taste preferences. The sauce in curry dishes helps retain moisture in the food, which is essential for airline catering. This prevents dishes from becoming dry during the reheating process, which can sometimes be necessary for in-flight meals.
Umami, often described as the savory fifth taste, plays a crucial role in enhancing the enjoyment of many culinary experiences, including curry dishes. This rich, savory flavor not only elevates the taste of these dishes but also proves valuable at high altitudes, where our taste buds become less sensitive.
Airlines recognize the challenge of maintaining flavor in the sky and strategically incorporate umami-rich ingredients like meat, cheese, and tomatoes to counter the taste-altering effects of altitude and low humidity. It’s worth noting that despite these efforts, the perception of in-flight food can still vary among passengers due to individual preferences and expectations.
Airlines can easily customize curry dishes to accommodate dietary preferences and restrictions since everything is pre-booked in advance with fixed allocated seating. This flexibility allows airlines to offer vegetarian, vegan, or meat-based curry options, catering to a wide range of passengers.
Curry dishes are known for their aromatic spices and herbs, which can add a pleasant and enticing aroma to the cabin when the food is being served. This aromatic enhancement enhances the overall dining experience for passengers.
But while curry dishes offer numerous advantages, they also present some challenges. The enticing aroma of curry can be strong and pervasive. Airlines must manage the smell to ensure it doesn’t overwhelm passengers or linger in the cabin. Preparing and reheating curry dishes consistently and to high standards can be challenging in the limited space and with the equipment available on an airplane. Ensuring that the sauce retains its texture and flavor is crucial.
Curry dishes may contain allergens such as nuts, dairy, or gluten. Airlines must clearly label and accommodate passengers with food allergies. Curry dishes prove to be a viable option for airline catering due to their flavor, moisture retention, umami, and versatility. However, airlines must carefully manage odors, maintain consistency, and address dietary restrictions to provide a satisfying dining experience for passengers.
The evolution of airline catering has seen a shift towards offering high-quality, gourmet meals, particularly in premium classes. While curry remains a popular choice, airlines now provide a wide range of meal options, including local and regional dishes made from fresh, seasonal ingredients, ensuring that passengers enjoy a more delightful and satisfying dining experience while traveling.
For me, curry isn’t limited to Indian cuisine. It encompasses various styles from around the world, including Nepali, Thai, Burmese, Indonesian, and Malaysian. I take pleasure in incorporating spices such as Timur berry and Himalayan chives or jimbu into Nepali curries.
Nepal’s coffee saga
In my early years, a solitary cherry tree graced the backyard of our Pokhara family home. Each year, we witnessed the splendid transformation from delicate blossoms to verdant fruit. As children, we frolicked with these mysterious cherries, discovering that they concealed twin seeds within. As they ripened into crimson orbs and tumbled to the earth, curiosity piqued, but none dared to taste the enigmatic fruit.
In 1990, a guest came home. As my mother prepared a meal for him, he explored our surroundings, and his gaze fell upon that tree. “Bhauju,” he exclaimed, “you have a coffee tree!” His excitement was palpable, and he promised to return during the harvest season to instruct us in the coffee-making process.
This marked my introduction to the word ‘coffee,’ a beverage that likely found its way to Nepal from Gulmi, where Hira Giri had, in 1938, imported coffee seeds from the Sindu Province of Burma, my maternal family’s place of origin. He nurtured these seeds in the Aapchaur area of Gulmi. While the seeds made their way to Nepal, the knowledge and technology needed to cultivate coffee remained elusive for many hillside homes, cultivating an air of curiosity.
What intrigued me was the timeline of coffee’s arrival in Nepal. While it had been introduced in India in the late 17th century, it took nearly 270 years for coffee to find its roots in Nepal. Baba Budan, an Indian pilgrim returning from Mecca in 1670, clandestinely transported seven coffee beans from Yemen to India, planting them in Karnataka’s Chandragiri hills. At the same time, some coffee experts posit that Gurkha soldiers and Nepali laborers employed in South Indian coffee plantations may have brought coffee seeds back to Nepal, envisioning the prospect of cultivating coffee locally upon their return.
Amidst Nepal’s new coffee generation, we tend to forget the coffee shop that first introduced coffee culture to Kathmandu: Bangalore Coffee House. After struggling to survive in New Road, its proprietors tried their luck opposite Tindhara Pathsala, renaming it the Mangalore Coffee House before vanishing from the coffee scene. This is a chapter of my Kathmandu upbringing that warrants exploration by coffee historians. Nepalis traditionally favored tea over coffee, and it took time for this preference to shift, resulting in limited local demand. Himalayan Java Coffee, a noted coffee outlet, blazed a trail by opening the first specialty coffee shop in Nepal around 1999-2000 when coffee culture was still in its infancy. The gradual growth of tourism after 1990 also played a pivotal role in shaping coffee habits.
Official records reveal that in the late 1970s, the Nepali government began distributing coffee seeds imported from India to farmers in potential districts through the Agriculture Development Bank, marking coffee’s first recognition as a potential cash crop. Interestingly, coffee plantations were also employed as a means to combat soil erosion. The Tinau Watershed Project in 1982 promoted coffee plantation on terrace risers, and not far from this watershed, in Manigram, Rupandehi, coffee processing commenced in 1983 with the establishment of Nepal Coffee Company (NeCCo), which processed dry cherries collected from local farmers.
In 1993, a formal institutional structure, the National Tea and Coffee Development Board (NTCDB), was established, poised to lead initiatives for the coffee sector’s development. Farmers from the mid-hill region began to recognize coffee as a highly lucrative crop due to rising exports and domestic consumption. The first coffee policy in Nepal emerged in 2004 as a result of these developments, followed by the commencement of organic certification a year later. In 2010, the Department of Industry registered the ‘Nepal Coffee’ logo, symbolizing the nation’s coffee identity.
In recent years, Nepal has borne witness to a coffee revolution, driven by the younger generation. Their love for coffee transcends its role as a mere morning pick-me-up; it has evolved into a cultural phenomenon. Coffee shops provide inviting spaces for socializing, studying, or working, blending aesthetics with the alluring aroma of freshly brewed coffee to create an atmosphere that resonates with the youth.
These coffeehouses offer an extensive menu, catering to diverse tastes and preferences, from classic brews to intricate espresso concoctions. Whether it’s a caramel macchiato, cold brew, or pumpkin spice latte, coffee shops satisfy the young generation’s desire for choice and customization.
In urban Nepal, coffee serves as a means of social connectivity. Young adults congregate at coffeehouses to catch up with friends, network, and meet new acquaintances. The act of sharing a coffee has evolved into a social ritual, fostering connections and strengthening relationships. For many young adults, coffee is also a source of productivity, providing an energy boost and heightened focus during late-night study sessions or work deadlines.
In my perspective, the bottleneck hindering the coffee enterprise’s growth lies in the lack of adequate research, knowledge, and technology. Overcoming these obstacles could lead to a success story, one that lauds the contributions of figures like Hira Giri, NeCCo, NTCDB, Himalayan Java, and the Nepal Coffee Producers Association.
However, I believe the true heroes of Nepal’s coffee story are the farmers who invested their time, money, and effort to make coffee a success. Their struggle is reflected in every coffee bean, making each cup a unique narrative. The significant disparity between Nepal’s coffee exports (almost 70,000 kgs) and imports (around 270,000 kgs) is a thought that never fails to weigh heavily on my mind. But Nepali coffee has indeed gained popularity in countries like the UK, America, Australia, and Japan, often leveraging branding associated with the Himalayas, Buddha, Everest, ‘Top of the World,’ Sherpa, and Gurkha heritage. Despite its current presence on a smaller scale, there is significant potential for growth in the Nepali coffee industry.
The taste of timmur: A unique Nepali spice
Have you heard about Basu Maya Tamang? Maybe not, but I’m confident you’ve savored the exquisite ‘timur chop’ produced by her ISO-certified venture, Nepali Man Udhyog. Basu Maya, hailing from Dhading, made a brave choice to quit school and work to support her siblings. Despite her best efforts to find financial stability in Kathmandu, success eluded her. The introduction of timmur chhop, a dried pickle crafted from Nepali Pepper (Zanthoxylum armatum), transformed her fortunes.
In the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, yogi and sadhus (Hindu holy men) wield sticks hewn from timmur tree branches to ward off negative energies. Although Basu Maya lacked such a stick, the fruit of the timmur tree seemingly shielded her from misfortune. In 2010, Basu Maya established her enterprise, now employing over 200 individuals, predominantly women, including many single women. For them, she’s a guardian, holding an invisible timmur stick, while to us, she’s the cherished ‘achar’ queen.
Observing the burgeoning market, it’s apparent that Basu Maya and her workforce and timmur pepper possess the potential to uplift countless impoverished Nepalis. However, substantial knowledge gaps hinder the exploration of numerous opportunities. While timmur’s application is primarily in pickle-making, its latent capacity extends far beyond, potentially opening the door to prosperity. Rigorous research into the medicinal and varied uses of timmur is indispensable.
Contrary to its name, timmur pepper isn’t a member of the pepper family. Instead, it emerges as a proud ambassador of Nepal’s botanical treasures. Derived from the berry husks of the Zanthoxylum armatum plant, indigenous to Nepal and the Himalayan region, timmur pepper boasts a flavor profile that is unparalleled. Its robust citrus notes, reminiscent of grapefruit, dance upon the palate, leaving behind an enchanting and distinctive tingle.
Nepal is nestled within the heart of the Himalayas and showcases a vibrant tapestry of cultural and culinary traditions. Amid this rich offering, one element shines brightly due to its unique flavor and captivating sensory experience: Timmur pepper also known as Nepali pepper. Yet, before we delve into its intriguing attributes, let’s unravel the story behind this ‘false pepper.’
As per the scientists, Nepal is home to more than eight varieties (species) of timmur, including Zanthoxylum acanthopodium DC., Zanthoxylum armatum DC., Z. floribunda Wall., Z. nepalense Babu, Z. nitidum (Roxb.) DC., Z. oxyphyllum Edgew., Z. simularis Hance and Z. tomentellum Hook. We need to explore the local names of all these varieties. I can only provide a few local names like Boke-timmur, Sil-timmur, and Bhote-timmur.
The status of sichuan pepper in this category eludes me. However, as a culinary expert, I can affirm that, much like its relative sichuan pepper, timmur pepper enchants with its tingling effect rather than sheer heat. This intriguing sensation, often described as both numbing and exhilarating, distinguishes it from conventional peppers. Both timmur and sichuan peppers are celebrated as ‘false peppers,’ reshaping our perception of spiciness and beckoning us to explore a realm of flavors that transcend the ordinary.
In Nepal, timmur pepper commands an esteemed position within culinary traditions. From enhancing momos, the delightful dumplings that grace Nepali tables, to infusing thukpa, a soul-warming noodle soup, timmur pepper wields its magic, elevating dishes to new heights. Its versatility shines as it harmonizes seamlessly with chicken, fish, vegetables, and even desserts, lending an unexpected twist to ice creams and beverages.
Beyond its culinary finesse, timmur pepper is believed to harbor a multitude of potential health benefits. Packed with essential minerals such as phosphorus, manganese, copper, and iron, it contributes to robust bones and may combat age-related ailments like osteoporosis. Some traditional practices even suggest that timmur pepper could enhance circulation, alleviate pain, bolster immunity, aid digestion, and improve vision health. While these claims are captivating, it's imperative to approach them with a balanced perspective, given that scientific validation is an ongoing process.
While timmur pepper’s natural habitat lies within Himalayan forests, it has found its way onto global tables. Online platforms provide convenient access, often bundled with a user-friendly built-in grinder. Renowned brands such as McCormick Gourmet Global Selects promise a top-notch experience, bringing the essence of Nepal’s mountains right into your kitchen.
In a realm of culinary conventions, timmur pepper beckons us to embark on an exploratory journey. Its lively citrusy notes and electrifying tingling sensation provide a glimpse into Nepal’s array of exquisite and diverse flavors.
I always think that adding a bit of timmur pepper to momos, mixing it into any drink, or even using it while making fish and chips, the British National Dish, to show how special this spice is in Nepali cooking. It’s like a way of showing how much nature has to offer and how skilled the chefs are. Timmur pepper doesn’t just make the food taste better, it also captures the true Nepali cooking style that has been around for a long time. This special spice has a strong smell and taste that really represents Nepali food, and it connects the flavors to the land where it comes from. Step beyond the ordinary, indulge your senses, and savor the captivating allure of timmur pepper – an authentic taste of Nepal’s Himalayan legacy.
As a British Nepali, I frequently need to discuss Nepali cuisine globally and distinguish our culinary heritage from Indian food. Timmur helps me do that. With its unique floral aroma, tingling sensory charm, alluring appearance, and peppery zest, timmur defines Nepali cuisine.
Personally, I hold timmur in high regard—it’s a staple in my kitchen cabinet.
Exploring Nepal’s rich brewing traditions
Picture the astonishment on a traveler’s face as he witnesses a waiter at a traditional Kathmandu restaurant handling a glass of flaming raksi. Even a tentative sip of this potent, age-old distilled alcoholic concoction can prompt any newcomer to exclaim, ‘Incredible, that’s remarkably robust!’
These ‘traditional’ eateries also serve a concoction known as aila. Crafted by the Newar community, aila appears to possess even more potency than paa (of Gurungs), aairak (of Tamanags), hengma (of Bantawas), sijongwaa aara (of Limbus), and raankau madda (of Magars).
Speaking of traditional raksi reminds me of the occasion when Nepali raksi secured the 41st spot in CNN World’s prestigious compilation of the 50 most delectable beverages. Tim Cheung, a CNN travel correspondent, eloquently described raksi as an alcoholic elixir crafted from millet or rice, characterized by its potent aroma and a scorching sensation upon consumption, which mellows into an unexpectedly smooth and velvety experience. This homemade elixir becomes a cherished indulgence during festivities, with some regarding the drink itself as the cause for celebration.
Every connoisseur of spirits visiting Nepal invariably develops an affinity for our indigenous alcoholic creations. Yet, it appears that we have yet to truly honor our raksi and jaad. The state’s imposition of prohibition, as stipulated by the madira (alcohol) Act of 2031, demands individuals to obtain a state license for home-brewing—a financial burden out of reach for many communities.
A Supreme Court verdict permits the annual production of up to 30 liters for family consumption. Regions like Gandaki and Lumbini Provinces have taken the initiative to legally brand local raksi. Bhirkot Municipality in Syangja has even escalated matters by embarking on the production and branding of raksi. While politicians vocalize the need for branding, no concerted endeavor to reform federal law has materialized; thus, these initiatives remain ineffectual.
Nevertheless, some politicians and entrepreneurs are striving to establish Nepali raksi as a recognized brand. The challenge lies in the dearth of scientific documentation on this traditional spirit. Some foreign enterprises have already introduced and marketed beverages in Nepal, dubiously labeled as local Nepali raksi or jaad.
Gandaki University has embarked on a journey to brand Millet raksi. A comprehensive evaluation of samples from five districts within the Gandaki province aims to ascertain their quality. Notably, there exists limited research on this subject, one of which is led by Narbada Thapa. Her team’s study reveals that the average ethanol concentration in homemade alcoholic beverages hovers around 14.0 percent (ranging from three to 40 percent) for distilled varieties and 5.2 percent (ranging from one to 18.9 percent) for non-distilled alternatives.
The research underscores that the median ethanol concentration in homemade alcoholic beverages in Nepal surpasses the potency of factory-produced beer. The strength of these libations varies based on the type, ingredients used, production location, and regional distinctions.
Nepali raksi
In the rugged expanse and verdant hills of Nepal, the art of crafting raksi represents an exquisite blend of tradition and technique. This unique beverage, akin to rice wines across Asia, comes from grains like millet, rice, or wheat. The process commences with the fermentation of these grains, an intricate choreography of nature bestowing life upon a new libation. As time progresses, the drink matures, flavors evolving and transforming.
Tongba
In the lofty Himalayan mountains, where the cold is biting and warmth is sought, tongba becomes a cherished companion. Forged from fermented millet, this unique drink emerges from the collaboration of earth, fire, and time. Millet undergoes metamorphosis within bamboo vessels, maturing over weeks or even months to metamorphose into a comforting elixir capable of warding off the cold. Tongba transcends mere consumption; it stands as a symbol of togetherness, inviting friends and even strangers to unite.
Himalayan chang
Himalayan Chang epitomizes reverence and resilience. Made from barley, an exceptional grain, its creation involves skilled hands. A blend of cooked rice and dry wine yeast is nurtured for a week, culminating in the emergence of chang. Chang is a perennial companion, offering solace during joyous and somber moments alike. It accompanies farewells, honoring those departed, and provides solace for sorrowful hearts. During Losar, the Himalayan New Year, chang symbolizes hope and fresh beginnings. It’s a testament to the human capacity for creativity even in the harshest environs.
Jaad
Jaad, another Nepali creation, emerges from the fermentation of wheat, rice, or millet over a span of about a week to ten days. It’s tailored to be enjoyed during scorching summers, offering refreshment with a hint of coolness. With a modest alcohol content, jaad boasts a sweet yet slightly tangy flavor profile.
Within the vast embrace of the majestic Himalayas, where time takes on a different rhythm and nature bestows its unique touch upon everything, drinks such as Nepali raksi, tongba, nigaar, chang, and jaad embody the resilience, camaraderie, and sagacity of our people. These drinks harbor a narrative, a memory, and an emotion surpassing the confines of a glass. These beverages transcend mere consumption—they function as conduits bridging past, present, and future. In celebrating these traditions, we honor our origins and our trajectory.
Watercress: An unsung hero of nutrition and taste
Watercress, a humble yet extraordinary vegetable, holds not only a rich history but also an abundance of nutritional and culinary benefits. Its value is not only evident in the UK, where 100 grams of watercress micro herb can be purchased online for £5.50, approximately Rs 900, and regular watercress costs £6.95, equivalent to Rs 1171. These microgreens have made their way into salads, garnishing seafood, and adding a sharp bite to sandwiches. Additionally, micro cress water can enhance soups, sauces like pesto, pasta dishes, and even roasted meats. Meanwhile, traditional watercress is a staple in salads, pasta dishes, casseroles, and sauces.
One might assume that watercress holds tremendous value as an herb. However, there’s more to the story. Watercress is not any herb. It doesn’t hold any special place in Nepali cuisine. It’s a neglected vegetable as it is grown everywhere in Nepal from 60 to 2000 meters from the sea level.
It’s known as sim saag, khole saag, sim rayo, or kanchhi saag. For too long, this unassuming leafy green has been overlooked, but now it’s finally receiving the recognition it deserves. Watercress is a nutritional powerhouse, loaded with essential vitamins A, C, and K, as well as calcium and iron, making it a truly valuable addition to any diet. Its arsenal of antioxidants effectively fights free radicals, boosts immunity, and helps reduce inflammation, making it an exceptional choice for promoting overall well-being. It’s time to discover the transformative power of watercress. Your body will thank you.
Growing up, my mother used to refer to watercress as ‘hilesaag,’ which translates to ‘muddy spinach.’ We often found this wonderful green in neglected areas around our house. Different communities in Nepal have their own names for it. Watercress is found growing wild in Nepal, and some people even indulge in foraging to gather this nutritious gem.
This rapidly growing aquatic or semi aquatic perennial plant has been tantalizing taste buds for centuries, thanks to its fiery flavor profile.Often found in muddy areas and near water sources like streams, rivers, and ponds, watercress has been an integral part of Nepali cuisine for generations. It has quietly contributed to the health and well-being of the Nepali people, despite remaining relatively unknown to many.
But what truly sets watercress apart from the rest is its exceptional nutritional profile. This humble herb is a treasure trove of vital nutrients, boasting more vitamin C than oranges, more calcium than milk, more iron than spinach, and more folate than bananas—all packed into a remarkably low-calorie package. This makes watercress an excellent addition to any diet, especially for those looking to bolster their immune system, improve bone health, and guard against chronic diseases.
Studies have also shown that watercress is abundant in antioxidants, which play a crucial role in reducing the risk of heart disease and certain types of cancer. Embracing the rejuvenating powers of watercress can indeed be a life-changing choice for one’s health journey.
The culinary possibilities of watercress are just as abundant as its health benefits. This versatile herb adds a spicy kick to soups and smoothies, complements cheese dishes and sandwiches, and makes a refreshing summer salad a pure delight with its succulent leaves.
Watercress is a versatile and nutritious leafy green that can be enjoyed in various ways. Its peppery taste makes it a delightful addition to salads, either on its own or mixed with other greens, providing a refreshing and nutritious dish. Additionally, watercress can be used to create flavorful soups, whether blended into a creamy concoction or added to vegetable-based soups for added taste and nutrition.
Furthermore, its unique flavor pairs exceptionally well with fish stews, enhancing the overall taste and nutritional value of the dish. Along with its delightful taste, watercress is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a valuable addition to any diet and offering a wide range of health benefits.
Traditionally, watercress was cultivated in waterlogged areas or streams. However, the ingenious gardeners of Nepal have discovered a more accessible way to grow this delightful green—in plastic plant pots. This simple method has made it possible for families to grow watercress at home, expanding its reach far beyond the water’s edge.
While watercress has been a hidden gem in Nepal, there is an exciting opportunity for the country to harness its potential and introduce it to the global market. With the increasing global interest in health-conscious foods, watercress could become a sought-after crop in Middle Eastern and European markets.
With the rising interest in health-conscious foods worldwide, watercress can become a sought-after crop in international markets. By establishing watercress farms and increasing its production, Nepal can export this nutritious gem to other countries, generating revenue and boosting the country’s export sector. Such a venture would not only boost the Nepali economy but also strengthen its agricultural sector, providing new avenues for prosperity and growth.
However, cultivating, harvesting, and processing watercress require a skilled labor force. Expanding watercress farming can create employment opportunities for rural communities, particularly in areas where agriculture is the primary source of livelihood. This, in turn, can help reduce rural-urban migration and alleviate poverty. Apart from fresh watercress, there is an opportunity to create value-added products such as dried watercress powder, watercress-based sauces, or watercress-infused oils. These products can fetch higher prices in both domestic and international markets, further contributing to economic growth.
Encouraging Nepalis to embrace this nutritious saag becomes even more important when considering that watercress is pesticide and chemical-free. Consuming it not only promotes good health but also supports sustainable and eco-friendly practices. So, the next time you take a leisurely stroll along a serene riverbank or spot a floating and creeping plant with its lush oval-shaped leaflets, take a moment to appreciate the unsung hero of nutrition and taste.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Unraveling the history of samosas
When ‘samosas’, the beloved snack of South Asia, first made their way onto our ancestors’ plates remains a mystery. However, one thing is certain—they didn’t simply fly directly to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Instead, they gradually crossed the Indo-Nepal border and gained popularity as ‘Singada’ in the Madhes region. This delectable treat was referred to as ‘Shingaras’ or ‘Singada’ in the Indian states of Bihar, Bengal, Assam, Odisha, and Jharkhand, due to its resemblance to the shape of the local water chestnut known as ‘Sighara.’ Interestingly, when ‘Singada’ reached the hills of Nepal, it transformed into its original name samosa.
The tradition of inviting skilled craftsmen, known as ‘mistris,’ from India to learn new crafts still exists in Nepal. It’s likely that the sweetshops in Kathmandu invited ‘samosa mistris’ directly from Delhi. As a result, the snack became known as samosa in Kathmandu.
The culinary history in our region is complex and undocumented. It primarily relies on oral tradition, where knowledge is passed down from fathers to sons or through the hands-on experience gained by assisting fathers and uncles in the culinary craft. One prominent figure in this realm is ‘Ghadsiramji,’ also known as ‘Maharaj-ji,’ who introduced the art of cooking Indian dishes to Kathmandu. His renowned establishment, Amrit Bhandar, located in Chokhachhe Galli, Indra Chowk in Kathmandu, was established in 1878 and gained popularity for its delectable offerings like ‘aaludam,’ ‘furandana,’ ‘jalebi,’ and ‘halwa.’ Interestingly, there is no mention of samosas in the oral history, even by his son, the legendary BL Sharma.
Nepal’s open border policy with India has allowed a rich exchange of ideas, culture, and cuisine. Samosa represents the harmonious coexistence of different cultures and has won the hearts of both Nepalis and Indians. It has become a symbol of unity, transcending political boundaries and fostering a shared appreciation for culinary arts.
As Nepal became a popular destination for pilgrims seeking solace at sacred sites like the Pashupatinath Temple and Gautam Buddha’s birthplace in Lumbini, the samosa played an unexpected role in their journeys. Pilgrims from distant lands embarked on challenging treks, and the samosa became a convenient and portable source of sustenance for them. Some believe that the samosa arrived in Nepal with these pilgrims or skilled workers.
Today, when you stroll through the lively streets of Kathmandu, explore the enchanting landscapes of Pokhara, or visit any tiny eatery in Shaphebar or near the tea estate of Ilam, you’ll be greeted by the enticing aroma of freshly fried samosas. These delicious snacks have become popular street food in Nepal and can be found in local eateries, tea shops, and food stalls. They are often served with ‘chutney’ or ‘chhole’ and enjoyed as a snack or part of a meal.
Whether eaten as a quick bite or as part of a traditional feast, the samosa continues to evoke nostalgia, reminding Nepalis of their rich heritage and their nation’s intertwined history. Despite having worked in the UK for nearly 20 years and having traveled extensively, experiencing cuisines from around the globe, I have never encountered the level of satisfaction I experienced while dining at the ASCOL (Amrit Science Campus) canteen. Although they never served piping hot samosas, the taste still lingers in my mouth.
In a land shaped by spirituality, migration, and cultural exchange, the journey of the samosa exemplifies the power of food in bringing people together. As Nepal embraces its diverse heritage, the samosa remains an integral part of its culinary story—a story that transcends borders, unites communities, and celebrates the shared love for delicious food.
Interestingly, despite popular belief, the humble Indian samosa actually originates from Central Asia. Early medieval texts from Persia mention similar snacks called ‘sanbosag’ and ‘samsa,’ which are considered early relatives of the samosas we know today. There are also accounts of small, triangular mince-filled snacks eaten by travelers under names like ‘sanbusak,’ ‘sanbusaj,’ and ‘sanbusaq.’ During the Delhi Sultanate rule, Middle Eastern chefs migrated to India in search of work and brought the samosa with them. Over time, the snack gained favor with Indian royalty and gradually became synonymous with Indian culture and cuisine.
When British colonizers arrived in India, they developed a fondness for the samosa and brought it with them on their travels. As a result, various versions of the samosa emerged, depending on the region and country where it was prepared. For example, Middle Eastern samosas are semi-circular and filled with cheese, onions, minced meat, and spices, while Israeli samosas often feature chickpeas and pine nuts.
In India, the country most commonly associated with the samosa, the snack is often served with chutney, shaped into a triangle, and enjoyed when it is crispy and lightly golden. The most common fillings for Indian samosas include boiled potatoes, peas, green chilies, and a blend of spices. One thing is certain, the samosa represents adaptability, tolerance, and invention. Even after centuries of interpretation, it remains one of the most beloved street snacks in India today.
Although traditional variations are typically triangular, there are countless ways to create a samosa. Many skilled chefs combine the snack with other dishes to create exciting new fillings, such as the ‘samosa chaat.’ Today, in the category of vegetarian snacks, samosas are arguably the second most popular option after vegetable momos.
During our younger years, there were numerous sweetshops situated between Ratna Park and Rani Pokhari in Kathmandu. These sweetshops had large metal plates placed above the burning stove near the cash counter. Samosas were prepared in the enclosed kitchen and placed on these plates. They were never served hot, but the accompanying semi-liquid vegetable curry was served hot. However, everything changed when a samosa shop opened in a narrow, dimly lit alley opposite Bishal Bazaar on New Road.
Surendra Sharma, a migrant from Burma, initially went to Rajasthan in India to seek his fortune. Perhaps facing setbacks there, he eventually arrived in Kathmandu and opened a tea shop. In the 1980s, approximately 40 years ago, Surendra ventured into the samosa business and began frying them in an open kitchen. The response was instant and overwhelming as people got hot, spicy, and fresh samosa cooked in front of them.
It’s difficult to put into words the sheer pleasure of dipping a piping hot samosa into a delightful sweet and sour sauce on a chilly day in Kathmandu. The shop had no official name, but it was located adjacent to a store called Tip Top Tailors. Consequently, people started referring to the samosas as ‘Tip Top ko samosa’ (Samosa from Tip Top). Although the owners named it Sauwgat Sweets, for us it will forever be Tip Top ko samosa.
The history of these triangular-shaped samosas holds many angles that require exploration through systematic research. From my perspective, it’s an endeavor that young culinary students should undertake. As for individuals like me who are of a certain age, our role lies in simply savoring the delightful crunch and taste of samosas.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Cooking at the 2023 Champions League final
On a warm Sunday in early June, the Atatürk Olympic Stadium in Istanbul, Turkey, was alive with cheers of passionate fans, all rallying for their favorite team competing in the UEFA Champions League final. It was an exciting match between the English club Manchester City and the Italian club Inter Milan. Being present at the stadium, I could hear the screaming and shouting of excited fans. Despite that, I wasn’t able to watch the actual game. I will tell you the reason later. For now, let’s break down what happened at the game. In an intense match, Manchester City triumphed, securing a 1-0 victory over Inter Milan. Rodrigo Hernández Cascante, popularly known as Rodri’s goal, secured a hard-fought victory for Manchester City. With this remarkable achievement, Manchester City now claims the title of European football champions, adding to their previous Premier League and FA Cup conquests. Manchester City rightfully became the biggest football brand in the world. A team that had recently acquired a similar feat was Real Madrid. The Atatürk Olympic Stadium is Turkey’s largest sports arena in terms of capacity and it also holds a distinguished position as the country’s prime football venue. The stadium can accommodate a staggering 76,761 spectators and it has been awarded a prestigious five-star sporting complex rating by UEFA. The name of the stadium pays tribute to the esteemed Turkish field marshal Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. I was at the game as I am working for one of the biggest catering companies, DO & CO, an Austrian company. Apart from airline catering, running restaurants, lounges and hotels, DO & CO also caters for international events such as the Champions League final. Here, I was leading a team that was responsible for providing food to esteemed guests and dignitaries, including the head of UEFA, FIFA among others. DO & CO mobilized 12 thousand staff members for this one-day event. This included all department heads and the best human resources available to cater for the event. My role is to work in a team with all stakeholders in approving the menu to prepare the plate. On this day, I was assigned to the VVIP section. I can’t disclose the names of people we catered to but I can say there were a good number of leaders from various political, social, economic, and sports backgrounds. The Champions League final is one of the biggest football events in Europe and the excitement was obviously palpable. Now let’s talk about the food. People are very curious about the food habits of celebrities. Working with celebrities and the rich for a long time has helped me realize that simple is the best. When people become so rich that they have access to everything they want, they eat simple food with good ingredients. At this event, our menu gave importance to comfort food. We cooked food which had nostalgic and sentimental value to the teams. The food had to be simple to prepare with a high caloric value and carbohydrate level. As the brief was nostalgia specific to a team or a specific culture, I cooked chicken tikka masala, pilau rice, seven spice infused oven-baked cauliflower and some green beans with cucumber ‘raita’ and ‘papadum’ that is classic in the UK. The guests loved this British classic, also one of the nation’s favorite dishes. It proved to be quite a sensation. It was served along with fish and chips and pie as snacks. For VVIP guests, one of the dishes we prepared was Thai vegetable curry—a simple but very tasty Asian-style curry. The curry was a mix of mild coconut and citrus curry, lemon grass, kaffir lime, fresh cilantro with mango tout (peas), peppers, chilies, red and spring onions, served with jasmine rice, sesame seeds, and a slice of lime. Bear in mind that in massive events such as this, food has to be easy to serve as well as eat because we have a short window of time to serve 14000 guests while the guests have a short time to eat the meal. For better management, we divided meals prepared into three categories—pre-match, half-time, and post-match. Pre-match is when everyone has time to spare so we serve a four-course menu including canapés, starter/appetizer, main course, and dessert. That’s when I prepared tikka masala. As a vegetarian option, Thai vegetable curry, a British pub favorite, was made into a vegan-friendly option to follow the current trend. During half-time, we served fish and chips, the national dish of the UK while there was arancini for vegetarians. Post-match, we served the great British classic Shepherd pie and mushroom pie for vegetarians. We also cooked vegan curry and jasmine rice to ensure our vegan guests also had a delectable meal option. Other team members also cooked Italian pasta, risotto, arancini, and gnocchi. The local team members were assigned to focus on local food. They mainly cooked Turkish mezze and braised lamb. We tried to make the meals simple, light, fresh, and healthy. We also used local produce as much as possible because we believe sustainability is key. We also practiced reducing wastage by separating recyclable and non-recyclable wastes. Not only this, the team also tried to recruit and train locals to deliver the team’s standard of service and cooking. We cooked up to 700 items on the final match day. But what bound our elaborate menu was simplicity. Akbar Al Baker, the Group CEO of Qatar Airways and the Chairman of Qatar Tourism once said to me, “to impress people with food, go to the basics”. According to him, more people crave simpler food. The rich and famous also prefer wholesome nourishing food with the option of light, fresh, and healthy vegetables. When I sat back after the day, I had a realization. Football is a game that brings together people from around the world. Massive infrastructures are made, developed, and constantly improved for this particular game. That means football lovers spend money on traveling, eating, drinking, and living. This creates a lot of job opportunities for many, including chefs like me. So, I believe football is both an emotion for millions of fans around the world and a Mecca of good opportunities.