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India’s prime minister Narendra Modi has a particular fondness for a mushroom known as ‘Phuikhane chyau’ in our local language. For thousands of years, shepherds in the foothills of the Himalayas have been barbecuing (phui) and eating (khane) this mushroom, and that is how it got its name. This mushroom is also called ‘Guchi’ in Hindi.  It’s reported that the Indian PM regularly enjoys guchi curry. Whenever Indian media covers these guchi mushrooms (known commonly as morel mushrooms), they often associate it with their prime minister and label it as ‘one of the most expensive vegetables.’ There are several stories of how the Indian PM might have acquired a taste for this particular mushroom. There are reports that during his teenage years Modi lived as a monk in the caves of the Himalayas for two years. This may be where he first encountered or developed a taste for the mushroom. Alternatively, he may have started consuming it during his tenure as the in-charge of party affairs in Himachal Pradesh (where these mushrooms are found aplenty) in the mid-1990s. Morel mushrooms are found in the wild in different parts of the world. They are said to be found in temperate climates near coniferous forests in various areas such as the USA, China, Bhutan, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Nepal, etc. The months of March and April mark the season for foraging Morel mushrooms in Nepal, which are known locally as khoya chyau, guchi chyau, phuikhane chyau, and chhohada chyau within different communities. But what makes this mushroom so special, and what significance does it hold for Nepal? Well, it happens to be Nepal’s most highly exported wild edible mushroom. Due to its unique taste and texture, there is a substantial demand for morel mushrooms in the European market, making morel foraging a lucrative source of income for rural communities. Currently, Nepal exports approximately nine tons of these mushrooms annually. However, by implementing sustainable foraging practices, there is potential to greatly increase export. Morchella esculenta, the variety of Morels commonly found in Nepal, is known by various names: morel, common morel, true morel, morel mushroom, yellow morel, sponge morel, Molly Moocher, haystack, and dryland fish. It gets its various eccentric names due to its unique appearance—it looks like a honeycomb with hollow white insides. Morels have many health benefits. They are rich in vitamin-D, and also contain carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, minerals, and organic acid while being low in cholesterol. They can be substituted for meat items in a diet as they are very nutrient dense and have been known to decrease cholesterol levels and give more energy. They are said to have tumor-inhibiting properties, and also have antioxidants that protect the body from free radicals which cause heart diseases, Parkinson’s disease, type 1 and type 2 diabetes etc. Morel mushrooms are highly prized for their unique flavor and meaty texture. It can be consumed fresh and dried as well. However, they cannot be eaten raw as they cause stomach cramps. The flavor of morels is valued highly in French cuisine, and there is a huge demand for morels in the European market. Morels are great with sauteed vegetables, or cooked in butter to be made into sauces for grilled meats and pastas. It’s also used as a pizza topping. Dried morels are best used in cooking risottos, or for making sauces. Their availability is often seasonal. While March to April is considered morel season, back in the day we used to call looking for morels ‘hunting’ but I have since learned that the correct term is ‘foraging’. These wild mushrooms are foraged from wooded areas during the spring months, while March to June is usually morel foraging season in Nepal. They typically grow in areas that have recently experienced forest fires, and are found in the springtime when temperatures begin to warm. Morels are typically found in temperate climates and can be found in a variety of habitats, including wooded areas, grasslands, and even in urban areas. A study done in 2019 by Nepali scientists found that in Nepal morel foraging is mostly done in the far western region. The foragers take months to forage morels, dry them and sell them to local shopkeepers who then sell them at regional markets. These morels are then exported via Nepalgunj and Mahendranagar routes to other countries. The foragers have to sell them at a meager price compared to what the mushrooms fetch in international markets. Due to its versatility, these morels fetch a high price in international markets. It is reasonable to assume that foragers who do much of the hard work must be given a fair price. If you are interested in foraging for morels in Nepal, it’s important to be aware of the local regulations and laws related to foraging. You may also want to consult local experts or experienced foragers to learn more about where to look for morels and how to identify them. It’s also important to take precautions when foraging for mushrooms, as some varieties can be poisonous or have adverse effects if consumed in large quantities. Always be sure to properly identify the mushrooms you collect and only consume those that are safe for consumption. We have been hearing time and again of families dying of poisoning caused by consuming poisonous mushrooms. This creates a precarious situation where foraging for mushrooms requires expertise in land and plants as well. Foraging for any type of mushroom can be dangerous, so people who forage have to be able to distinguish between edible and non-edible mushrooms. Overall, morel foraging can be a fun and rewarding activity, but it’s important to approach it with caution. It can be dangerous if overexploitation leads to unsustainable practices and turns harmful to the environment. The practice of morel foraging in Nepal has not had a significant environmental impact, unlike in China, where Morel exports have nearly quadrupled in recent years. Indian media outlets have criticized the Chinese, alleging them of cultivating and selling morels as ‘wild’ mushrooms. However, the viability of these claims remains uncertain. Nonetheless, we can raise concerns regarding the sustainability of this process. Shifting homewards, the potential of these mushrooms for the benefit of Nepal’s economy has often been overlooked. Nepal is home to more than 22,200 Community Forestry Users Groups, which have primarily focused on timber production. However, there is an opportunity to shift their attention toward Non-Timber Forest Products (NTFPs), including foraging for Morel mushrooms. This shift in focus can serve as a pathway to prosperity, opening up new avenues for sustainable livelihoods and economic growth.

If you’ve ever heard an elderly speak of his heydays, you must have heard him say, “In our youth, diseases and illnesses weren’t so common. We ate what we grew in our farms, and walked and worked day and night. It isn’t like today when all you get is packaged food, and people do not have to move an inch. And you wonder why your generation is so unhealthy!” Well, this begs us to consider the question, why are we thought of as an unhealthy generation? Does that have to do with eating or lack of eating food in season? Eating fruits and vegetables that are in season has several benefits. Some of the main advantages of eating food in season is that seasonal produce is fresher, tastes better, and contains more nutrients. This is because seasonal produce is usually harvested at its peak and doesn’t need to be transported long distances. Long distance transportation can cause food to lose its flavor and nutrients. Seasonal fruits, grains, and vegetables were sole sources of sustenance of our forefathers when transportation was difficult and agriculture wasn’t as advanced as it is today. Today, with globalization, produce can come from far-flung places. Technology has advanced so much that foods are grown in labs, greenhouses and through chemical manipulation. We get fruits such as apples, grapes and oranges all year round when they are mostly winter fruits and were traditionally found in the winter season. Cucumbers and tomatoes which used to grow in summers are found year-round too. In various cuisines around the world, seasonal fruits and vegetables are consumed in season. There are various dishes that adapt to the ingredients available in the pantry at any given time. For example, the seasonal food in Korea was based on the ingredients available in the natural environment. In summer, vegetables and grains such as green beans, cucumbers, carrots, radish, lettuces, eggplant, rice etc. were eaten along with fruits such as lemon, watermelon, plum, grapes, apricots, mulberries, nectarines. In autumn, produce used included cabbages, turnips, cauliflower, celery, millet, wheat, barley, parsnip, onions, pulses, etc. Drinks included distillation of aromatic herbs. Similarly, in Nepal, in winters, hearty soups such as kwati (nine bean soup), bodi tama (black eyed peas and bamboo shoot curry), as well as yams, sweet potatoes, turnips, radishes, spinach are eaten. In summers, fruits such as mangoes, litchis, guava and pineapple are available. Nepal is still an agrarian society with vast swathes of land being used for agriculture. Farmers have recently started adding chemicals and genetically modified seeds to enhance crop production. While this has increased efficiency in farming and this is a step to agro-development, it also takes away from the fact that food isn’t just local and seasonal anymore. The classic question of efficient production versus niche product comes to the picture. The other side of it is that produce produced in Nepal has to compete with cheaper vegetables and fruits that are brought from neighboring countries. In such a competitive climate, can we blame our farmers for effective albeit chemically enhanced farming? When fruits and vegetables are picked before they are ripe, they don’t have the chance to develop their full range of nutrients, flavor and taste. Seasonal produce, on the other hand, is allowed to ripen naturally in the sun which means that it has had more time to develop its full range of nutrients, antioxidants, and phyto-nutrients. These nutrients are essential for maintaining good health and preventing diseases. Some plants need high temperatures to bear fruits and flowers such as watermelon and cucumber whereas carrots grow in cold temperatures due to which it’s mostly available in winter. This is why most of the fruits and flowers are seasonal. They require different temperatures, soil quality and water availability to grow. Locally produced fruits and vegetables are more nutrient dense. Along with that, instead of buying the same boring vegetables you always pick out at the grocers, buying local seasonal fruits and vegetables can be exciting for its variety. Apart from that, buying locally grown fresh produce can also be cheaper. This is because additional cost of transportation isn’t included. The food made is also more flavorful, fragrant, and delicious. Seasonal foods are more flavorful. You must have noticed that when we eat mustard greens (raayo ko saag) in winter, the flavor is different. This is because spinach is fresh and grown locally. In addition to being more nutritious, seasonal produce is also more environmentally friendly. I find that to be important for me personally. When produce is transported long distances, it requires more energy and resources to keep it fresh which can have a negative impact on the environment.  There was a debate on social media that veganism, although great for the environment, isn’t environment friendly as transporting avocados, nuts and other vegan friendly produce requires air travel which greatly increases the carbon footprint of these produce. So, the answer is eating seasonal produce that is grown locally. This can help reduce the carbon footprint of our food and also support local farmers. All in all, eating seasonal fruits and vegetables is a great way to ensure that you are getting the freshest, most nutritious produce while also supporting local farmers and reducing your carbon footprint at a cheaper price. So, think globally, eat locally.

Spices are essential in many cuisines around the world. They greatly enhance the taste and aroma of food, add flavor, and also have potential health benefits. There are many different types and varieties of spices to choose from, so it’s important to experiment until you find the perfect combination of spices for the dish you are making. I personally love rosemary and garlic. It’s also considered a classic spice combination. I believe chili, garlic, and coriander also work very well together. The spices used in various cuisines around the world are distinct from one another, and provide the different aromas, textures and flavors. For example, in South Asian dishes there is generally heavy use of ginger, garlic, cumin, mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, curry leaves, coriander, turmeric, cardamom, bay leaf, etc. Spices in French cuisine are limited to ground white or black pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger among a few others. Chinese spices include Schezwan peppercorn, star anise, fennel, cinnamon, clove and in the USA, dry mustard, paprika, celery salt, crushed red pepper flakes, black pepper, bay leaves, nutmeg, ginger, clove, mace, cardamom, and allspice are used. The distinct use of spices produces different flavor combinations. That is why a Filipino chicken adobo tastes very different from Indian butter chicken. It’s all in the spices. Spices also have an interesting history. Once upon a time, empires that had control over the spice trade ruled the world. Spice routes traveled by maritime routes from India, South East Asia to Africa and Europe. Spice was so precious that European countries sent sailors to Asia and Africa to bring back these natural money minting entities. Spice trade from India is one of the reasons the Dutch and British East India companies fought for colonizing India. It could be said that what motivated the European colonizers to colonize many parts of Asia and Africa was the greed to control spices trade routes around the world. Black peppercorns were traditionally found in Asia, but were so favored in European cuisine that they were considered exotic. They were transported in huge quantities, and this spice business was very profitable. When spices weren’t niche commodities anymore, the downfall of these European empires became eminent. Today, as a reminiscence of these spice traders, there are various spice markets around the world in countries such as India, Morocco, Iran, Turkey, etc. which are popular tourist attractions. In addition to their flavor-enhancing properties, spices are also known for their potential health benefits. For example, turmeric, a spice commonly used in Indian cuisine, contains a powerful anti-inflammatory compound called curcumin. Turmeric is often referred to as the ‘golden spice’ due to its vibrant yellow color, which comes from curcumin. Curcumin is also responsible for many of the health benefits associated with turmeric, such as its anti-inflammatory properties. It is considered one of the healthiest spices because in addition to its anti-inflammatory effects, turmeric might also have antioxidant properties and has been studied for its potential to improve brain function and lower the risk of certain chronic diseases. Turmeric has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and cooking, particularly in South Asian cuisine. It’s often used to flavor and color curry dishes and is also used in many other dishes around the world. I love how Malaysian cuisine uses turmeric in fresh form in their dishes. However, it’s important to note that more research is needed to fully understand the health benefits of turmeric and curcumin. Overall, turmeric is a versatile and flavorful spice that can add a pop of color to many dishes, while amping up its health quotient. Similarly, cinnamon has been shown to help regulate blood sugar levels. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties. Ginger is another spice that is known for its anti-inflammatory effects and it has been used for centuries to help ease nausea and stomach discomfort.  Saffron is said to enhance sleep, better mood, and relieve PMS symptoms. Rosemary and oregano help fight diseases such as obesity, liver problems, and asthma. Spices have long been used as herbal medicines in many Asian cultures. South Asian ayurveda makes use of many local spices, herbs, and medicinal plants. Ayurveda emphasizes the use of spices in enhancing digestion, increasing and stimulating appetite, and nourishment through various antioxidants, minerals, vitamins etc. Ashwagandha, ginger, turmeric, fennel seeds, amla are some of the widely used herbs and spices in Ayurvedic medicine. Similarly, traditional Chinese medicine also makes use of various herbs and spices. Licorice, ginger, ginseng root, etc. have been used for medicinal purposes for years. Cooking with unknown spices can seem intimidating, especially when you haven’t experienced how certain spices work with certain dishes. The ground rule when experimenting with spices is to start with small amounts and gradually increase it until you achieve the desired flavor. It’s also a good idea to use fresh spices whenever possible, as they have a stronger flavor and aroma than older dried and powdered spices. Overall, incorporating a variety of spices into your cooking can not only make your food taste better but can also provide potential health benefits. So don’t be afraid to be creative and innovative in experimenting with spices in different combinations to find your perfect flavor profile.

How are food and culture related? Both of these elements reinforce each other. Throughout history, the availability and accessibility of food have determined the survival and growth of civilizations. On the other hand, food has been closely associated with cultural identity and heritage. The food we eat often reflects the geography, climate, and resources of a region, and shapes local cuisines and culinary traditions. Food is also an important aspect of social gatherings and celebrations. Food is a basic human need for survival. It provides the necessary nutrients and energy for our bodies to function properly. However, time and again we see food holding cultural and historical significance. Food not only provides sustenance, but what kind of food we consume reflects the history, traditions, values, and social dynamics of a community or group of people. Historically, control over food resources was often a source of conflict and competition among civilizations. Access to fertile land, water, and other food resources have been the driving factors of conflicts, conquests, and territorial expansion. One of the many reasons Prithvi Narayan Shah wanted to conquer Kathmandu was its fertile land and easy availability of fresh produce. Whether it’s through agriculture, trade, cultural practices, or conflict, food has been a fundamental element of human civilization. It has shaped our past, continues to affect our present, and will likely play a significant role in our future as well. Control over food production and distribution has been used as a means of power and domination, shaping the political landscape of civilizations. This is one of the reasons why the oldest agrarian civilizations were found in riverbanks of great rivers such as the Nile, Yangtze, Indus etc. Throughout history, food has been at the heart of human society, and its role continues to evolve in the modern world. So, the significance of food in human civilization cannot be underestimated. It has been and will continue to be a driving force in the development and evolution of societies. So, understanding the importance of food is crucial to understanding human civilization as a whole. In recent times, an Asian wave has gripped the world which has led to massive popularity of Korean food and appreciation of Korean culture. In the USA, which is the biggest melting pot of people from different cultures and backgrounds, food from around the world can be found in the streets of New York. Moving closer to home, in Nepal, the obvious correlation between food and culture can be seen in the Newar community. Newari Bhoj is an amalgamation of culture and food that brings people from different families in a community together. It’s a cultural practice that spans generations. Here, food is an integral aspect of social gatherings, celebrations, and rituals, and it helps to define cultural practices and customs. The unique way Newar community prepares food making its taste distinct from other communities has fostered cultural identity by bringing people together and creating a sense of belonging. Food can also be a means of communication, expressing social status, hospitality, and belonging to a particular group or community. In Hindu marriage ceremonies, it’s a common practice to bring various fruits, nuts, sweets, and fish as offerings. The act of preparing food with love and care communicates the affection a person has for another. Food plays a crucial role in marketing social differences. Different cultures have unique dietary practices, food taboos, and culinary traditions that are shaped by various factors such as geography, climate, religion, and historical influences. For example, in Brahmin and Chhetri communities of Nepal, cows are considered sacred and eating, selling, and distribution of cow meat is forbidden, while some indigenous communities consider beef to be a delicacy. The ways in which food is prepared, cooked, and consumed can also vary greatly across cultures, leading to a diverse range of flavors, textures, and culinary techniques. Food is scarce in the Himalayan region, and they have dishes of potatoes, soups and teas. Traditionally, people in hilly areas consumed grains such as rice, maize, corn, wheat, pulses, etc. Tarai, with its warm and humid weather, sees the growth of varieties of fruits and vegetables. Food also strengthens social bonds by providing opportunities for communal eating and shared experiences. Many cultures have rituals and customs associated with food, such as family gatherings, festive feasts, and special occasions. These occasions often involve traditional dishes that are prepared and shared among family members, friends, and communities, creating a sense of togetherness and fostering relationships. This can be best exemplified by the Newari bhoj, a communal eating experience that is also seen as a celebration and festivity in various jatras. Food can represent a sense of belonging to a particular cultural group, and people often take pride in their traditional cuisines and culinary skills. Food can preserve and pass down cultural heritage from one generation to another. The Italians take pride in their pastas and pizzas, the Mexicans have their tacos and burritos, the Polish have their ‘peirogi’, and the Vietnamese have ‘pho’. However, it’s important to note that food can also be a source of tension and conflict, especially in multi-cultural societies where differences in food preferences, dietary restrictions, and culinary practices may clash. It’s said that one of the reasons of Hindu-Muslim conflict in India is the consumption of meat. Food can sometimes be a symbol of social status, power, and inequality, leading to issues related to access, affordability, and distribution of food resources. For instance, in the Mushahar community of Nepal’s Tarai, rat meat has been eaten as a delicacy for generations but this has affected their interactions with other communities in society. Food is a reflection of who we are as individuals and as communities, and it continues to shape our cultural heritage in profound ways. So, next time you sit down for a meal, remember that it is more than just food on your plate. It’s a reflection of the rich cultural tapestry that surrounds us. We should appreciate and celebrate the diversity and significance of food in our cultural landscape.

“Oh no, not again! Just vegetables, no meat?” That’s what I often said to my mother when I was young. Perhaps we couldn’t afford it, or maybe the scarcity of meat and eggs was common back then. Even onions, ginger, or garlic in our meals were a rare thing. We had to wait for Dashain to savor these delicacies. Our daily sustenance consisted of what we called ‘plain’ food – daal (lentils), bhaat (rice), tarkari (vegetables), saag (leafy greens), and the indispensable chatani or achar (pickle). Now, in retrospect, I realize that we unknowingly adhered to a ‘sattvic diet’—a humble and unadulterated way of eating that has long been embraced by yogic practitioners. This diet, simple and natural in essence, is said to have numerous benefits. During my usual work in Research and Development, I came across a Sanskrit sloka: Aharasuddhau sattva-suddhih, Sattva-suddhaudhruvasmrtihidhruvasmrti-lambhesarva-granthinamvipra-moksah [Chandogya Upanishad 7.26.2]. This sloka translates to ‘From purity of food comes purity of mind, and from purity of mind comes freedom from all bondages which liberates a person. You become what you eat. Food is the matter that your mind is composed of.’ In the teachings of traditional yoga, foods are classified into three categories: ‘sattva’, ‘rajas’, and ‘tamas’. These three categories are called ‘gunas’ (characteristics) and represent the three qualities that are present in everything; including food. Sattva is considered the highest guna, representing balance and harmony. This is the ideal state. Rajas is a guna that represents activity and movement. According to Ayurveda, it’s believed too much rajas leads to stress, overstimulation, and over-excitement. Tamas is the lowest guna, representing darkness, inertia, and heaviness. Too much tamas leads to laziness, dullness, and stagnation. Sattva is the ideal state of being. So, sattvic foods are believed to promote a sattvic state—meaning they enhance clarity, harmony, and balance in the body and mind. A sattvic diet includes foods that are light, fresh, and healthy. In practice, that means eating things that are vegetarian, nutritious, fresh, and tasty. Sattvic foods are typically vegetarian and include fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grains like brown rice and quinoa, legumes like lentils and chickpeas, nuts and seeds, herbs and spices like ginger, turmeric, coriander, honey and jaggery. Sattvic foods are typically consumed in their natural form, without being processed or refined. They are also prepared with mindfulness and positive intention. Sattvic diet is extremely nutritious as 40 percent of it includes raw vegetables and fruits usually eaten in the form of salads. This means salad should be a part of our everyday meals. Vegetables and fruits have the maximum nutrients, minerals, and fiber when eaten in the raw form. This promotes easy digestion due to fiber-rich food. Consuming it leaves you feeling satiated that will prevent you from snacking mindlessly before the next meal. ‘ According to Ayurveda, each bite of food has to be chewed 24 times before swallowing. This helps complete the absorption of nutrients from food and improves digestion. Slow chewing of food instantly boosts metabolism and is proven to reduce fat absorption as well. Sattvic foods are low in carbohydrates and calories. It’s rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals. Consuming natural fresh foods provides all the necessary nutrients, dietary fiber, antioxidants, proteins, minerals, and monounsaturated fats necessary for the healthy functioning of your body. If this diet is followed regularly, it boosts your body’s immunity by building a healthier immune system. There are numerous benefits of a sattvic diet for the body and mind, including increased energy and vitality, improved digestion, reduced inflammation, improved mental clarity and focus, and enhanced spiritual growth and development. However, there are some concerns regarding the sattvic diet. While the sattvic diet is generally considered safe and healthy, it might not be appropriate for everyone. For example, athletes or individuals with high energy needs might require more protein and calories than the sattvic diet provides. Additionally, those with certain medical conditions might need to modify their diet accordingly. But this diet is popular among people who practice yoga and exercise on a daily basis. Food is considered to be healthy if it brings energy and freshness to the body and mind when consumed. On the other hand, if you feel sleepy and lethargic after having food, it means that food isn’t compatible with your body. Scientists have proven that a good diet brings energy, peacefulness, and happiness to the mind and body. The sattvic diet is loaded with goodness that maintains the balance in body and mind. With a healthy body and mind, our life expectancy goes up. People who are seeking spiritual growth should follow the sattvic diet. Toxicity in the body can be seen visibly if you feel a sense of bloating, headache, skin rashes, fatigue, acne, or nausea. If you are regularly experiencing these symptoms, there is a need to change your diet and detoxify your body. And a sattvic diet can help with that. I recommend fasting once every month. Having a glass of warm water mixed with a pinch of turmeric and honey every morning removes toxins from your body. Practicing yoga or meditation along with a healthy diet also helps cleanse your body. You will notice visible changes in your body within a month of having a sattvic diet. You will wake up feeling refreshed in the morning without any tiredness and drowsiness. Your body feels light, agile, energetic, and flexible. Your mood is elevated bringing in a significant change in the productivity of your work. There are many benefits of following the sattvic diet. During this modern age, it might not seem possible to follow this diet strictly, but we can slowly incorporate it along with our regular diet. Once we reap the benefits of it, I’m sure we will be motivated to follow them regularly. It’s far better to utilize easily available resources to improve our health instead of going to doctors or nutritionists with long lists of health problems.

When you think of ‘taas’, you think of Chitwan. It’s a much-loved mutton dish that is basically marinated mutton pieces cooked in a generous amount of mustard oil on a griddle. The meat cooked thus becomes tender, succulent, and rich in flavors. This iconic dish is perhaps an identity of Chitwan. However, taas didn’t originate in Chitwan. Its roots can be traced back to Raxaul, a small border town near Birgunj. During the Panchayat era in Nepal, people from Kathmandu traveled all the way to Raxaul for shopping and to watch the latest Bollywood movies. Rangoli Meat Hotel, located just opposite Krishna Talkies in Raxaul, was a popular spot to enjoy taas. It wasn’t the only place selling this dish though. There were a few stalls near Pankaj Talkies that also served the delicacy. In April 1987, Gobinda Tiwari started Bhetghat restaurant in Bharatpur. The restaurant served taas. Apparently, he brought taas to Chitwan, and the rest is history. It became popular and today Chitwan is incomplete without taas. I’m a huge fan of ‘Chitwan ko taas’ as well. Every time I visit Nepal, I make some excuse to go to Chitwan just to visit Bhetghat Taas Ghar, one of my favorite eateries. During one such visit to Bhetghat, I told the waiter to get me one standard plate of taas. This normally includes the taas meat along with tomato achar, salad, and bhuja (puffed rice). I eventually ended up ordering three plates. My mum and brother who had tagged along were surprised to see my insatiable appetite for taas. I had ordered eight plates when my mother stopped me from ordering more and said, “Ma banai dinchu ghar mai.” (I shall prepare it at home.) What makes taas stand apart from any other meat dish prepared in Nepal? These boneless lamb cubes are marinated in coarse Nepali spices and herbs and are grilled in as little oil as possible. To prepare taas, people use a large, near-flat concave thick-bottomed pan called tawa. Cooking this meat in the tawa, in medium heat, results in an assertively spiced crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside succulent meat. But what makes taas special is not just the grilled marinated meat. It’s the right combination of the whole set, including puffed rice, tomato chutney, cucumber and radish salad, green chilies, red onion, and lemon salad. My personal preference is eating taas with fermented pickled radish. There was a time when I tried having the taas khaja set meal at Bhetghat’s outlet in Anamnagar, Kathmandu. But it didn’t match the original taste of their Chitwan outlet.  The recipe might be the same but the dish didn’t have the same taste or texture. The taste of food is not only about recipes and technique, it’s about the vibe that the surrounding gives. Food tastes different depending on where the products are coming from. So, the taste of taas in Chitwan beats all other copycat places that offer taas dishes. You wouldn’t think of having fried fish, aloo chop with tomato achar, and beer inside cities like Kathmandu or Pokhara. But the same dishes with a little bit of dust, vehicles’ noise from the surrounding taste heavenly on road trips. Everyone is in a holiday mood, and the rush and sounds of the road give a different experience which you will not find in either Kathmandu or Pokhara. As much as I wish I could, I can’t go to Chitwan every time I crave taas. So I have tried the original recipe several times. I’ve also introduced it to my restaurant’s menu. Here, I’m sharing my version of the taas recipe.

Can you imagine Malekhu without fried fish and aloo chop?  I don’t think so. But there were no fried fish and aloo chop (mini potato cutlet or croquette) shops in Malekhu before February 1979. The quaint Machha Bazaar of this tiny town is famous for quick bites of fried fish, fish curries, machha (fish) with chiura (beaten rice), rice and machha ko jhol (fish gravy), aloo chop, and other varieties of fried delicacies. Malekhu has a lot of pit-stop eateries with enough parking spaces in front of each tiny restaurant. There are a few hotels too. The Malekhu brand of fish and chop was established by a man named Chhabilal Marahatha who had returned from Burma to his ancestor’s land, Gorkha. This man with an entrepreneurial spirit was looking to start a business. He settled in Malekhu, a small tea shop area in the newly built Prithvi highway that connected Kathmandu and Pokhara, and started his restaurant business. Chhabilal is my maternal uncle (mama). He used to tell us that his chop is inspired by the Bengali aloo chop. Mama is also known as Chop Baje. He got the name from the crispy outside and juicy inside aloo chops that he prepares. He also initiated fish sales in Malekhu Bazaar. My mama told us that one day a Chepang boy came with a handful of fish from the Trisuli river to sell at his chop shop. After purchasing half a kilogram of the fish, he fried it and put it in the shop’s showcase. The fried fish was such a hit that it sold out immediately. The next day, Chop Baje was at the Trisuli river searching for that same Chepang boy to request him to bring back more fish. Did you know that the original Malekhu was not where it’s located today? It was just near the old Malekhu bridge. This bridge was washed out by the tributaries of the Trishuli river in 1993. Then the bridge was moved towards the Trishuli river. Before the market was at a bend on the road but later when the road was straightened, the whole bazaar had to move. The old bazaar still exists in its original location but nowadays it only serves the local crowds only. Chop Baje started his business with only half a kilogram of local fish and one kilogram of potato (to make aloo chop). He never imagined the whole market would be so popular that a single person’s sales could go up to 200 kgs. Before the pandemic, local business owners used to sell up to 1500 kgs of fish but most of these fish came from Janakpur and other Indian towns. I tried to replicate my mama’s recipes but it never tasted the same. The fried fish in Malekhu tasted different because of the ambience of the place. The crowded environment, the rustic cooking method, the easy placement of the eateries next to the highway, the noise of passing vehicles and their horns—all these beautiful factors came together to lend the food a unique flavor. But given the recent circumstances, I think that the taste of Malekhu will soon become a distant memory. Malekhu which used to sell items produced locally sells imported fish and chops now. The overexploitation of the Malekhu and Trisuli rivers has emptied them of fish. To make things worse, the sand mafia is illegally mining in the river. As a result of these activities, local Chepang people who used to depend on the river for income are now jobless. To make businesses sustainable, the community of Malekhu should come forward and brainstorm solutions. In my view, they should consider community-based local fisheries. While fish consumption has been one of the most important sources of income for the locals, community-based local fisheries for sustainable business will greatly benefit the ‘Farm to Fork’ concept, and fish lovers would enjoy having local fish. This will also ensure that a new generation of people can enjoy the local fish from Malekhu or even the Trishuli river. Imagine the marketing genius of pre-booking the delicacies before arriving at Malekhu. This would allow the locals to prepare your dish in advance with love and care. In the fast and wild rivers, you can find different varieties of fish. The fish found would be local, organic, and carry the fresh taste of the mountains. I would recommend one of the best local fish to be the Jal Kapoor (Pangasius) which just melts in the mouth. With the right approach to reviving Malekhu, our grandchildren can enjoy Jal Kapoor there just like our forefathers used to.

On one end of the hierarchy of nuts, there’s the common yet versatile peanut. And on the other, there’s the outrageously priced pine nut that is called the caviar of nuts. But there’s nothing like a fresh pine nut. It’s creamy and flavorful. Called ‘salla geda’ in Nepali, these nuts are obtained from several varieties of pine trees. There are generally two main varieties, and both produce nuts that are ivory in color. The pine nuts found in Nepal are small and oblong in shape. Pine nuts aren’t as common as other nuts, but the demand keeps increasing in the United States and Europe. From 2008 to 2018, demand surged 236 percent in the US and 347 percent in Europe. Pine nuts only account for around one percent of worldwide nut consumption but they command a premium price in the market. They’re used in various industries including bakery, confectionery, beverages, and cosmetics, as well as being extracted for oil. The four most common pine nuts found in the culinary world are the Mexican pinyon (Pinus cembroides), the Colorado pinion (Pinus edulis), the Italian or Mediterranean stone pine (Pinus pinea), and Chinese nut pine (Pinus armandii).  But there are Siberian and Korean pines too. The Mediterranean or Italian (pignolia) stone pine nut is torpedo-shaped. It has a light, delicate flavor. The high demand for pine nuts is also due to their impressive caloric value. A fistful of pine nuts has 188 Kcal. One kilogram of pine nuts costs around £44, compared to around £12 for almonds (according to a review of prices on Amazon at the time of writing this article). But as expensive as they come, they are delicious. I use pine nuts to make pesto, garnishes, couscous, in rice, and to make infused oil. My favorite recipe comprises toasted pine nuts in rosemary oil. Toasted pine nuts taste like homemade ghee and that makes me nostalgic. Prices of the creamy, teardrop-shaped nuts can often cause sticker shock. But why are pine nuts so costly? First, they are labor-intensive to harvest. Pine nuts are one of the most expensive nuts available because of the time and effort required to grow and harvest them. Pine trees take a long time to mature and produce nuts, often taking anywhere from three to seven years before they start to bear cones. Additionally, the harvesting process is labor-intensive as well as the nuts are located inside the protective shells of the cones and must be extracted by hand. This makes the overall process of producing pine nuts more time-consuming and expensive than other types of nuts which contributes to their higher cost in the market. Pine nut trees take anywhere between 10 to 40 years to mature. Compare that to almond trees, which take two to four years to harvest. The good news is that in Nepal, pine nuts are found abundantly in the wild. Why do Nepalis go to the Gulf countries in droves when there’s a lot of money to be made in Nepal by foraging and collecting pine nuts from the wild? We can learn from our neighbor China which is one of the biggest exporters of pine nuts. China produces 8.1 megatons of pine nuts every year. It’s the biggest exporter too, accounting for approximately 64 percent of global exports, and is also the leading source of pine nuts for the U.S., EU, and the U.K. In some cases, the little nuts take quite a globe-trotting journey before they’re ready to be tossed into a batch of pesto. In fact, a significant portion of in-shell pine nuts from other top-producing countries is exported to China, processed, and then re-exported. Other Asian pine nut exporters include Afghanistan, Pakistan, North Korea, Mongolia, and Serbia, Russia. Nepal, with a little bit of foresight and planning, could produce amazing pine nuts and export them as well. It wouldn’t be profitable for another 25 years but the time to start is now. The author is a London-based Nepali R&D chef