Submit your Article

Bhinda Swari Shah, a pioneering diplomat, education advocate, and champion of gender equality, passed away on Thursday morning at the age of 91. A trailblazer in every sense, Shah was the first Nepali woman to earn a bachelor’s degree in the United States, Nepal’s first female ambassador, and a relentless advocate for women’s empowerment and social reform.  

Shah’s diplomatic career was marked by historic firsts and an unwavering commitment to advancing Nepal’s global standing. At the behest of BP Koirala, Nepal’s first democratically elected prime minister, Shah joined the Foreign Ministry and quickly established herself as a trailblazer in the male-dominated field of diplomacy.  

She played a pivotal role in establishing Nepal’s first embassy in Bangladesh, demonstrating exemplary leadership during the political turbulence that followed Sheikh Mujibur Rahman’s assassination in 1975.  

In 1988, she made history as Nepal’s first female ambassador to India, skillfully navigating strained relations during the economic blockade imposed by India.

Her dedication and expertise earned her widespread respect. Reflecting on her impact for the ‘ApEx Pioneers’ column in The Annapurna Express, her colleague and former foreign secretary Madan Kumar Bhattarai remarked, “She was not only a person but an institution. Her ability to prepare diplomatic agendas, negotiate agreements, and master protocols set the bar for Nepal’s Foreign Ministry.”  

Shah’s legacy extended beyond diplomacy. She was a tireless advocate for gender equality and education, using her groundbreaking achievements to inspire and pave the way for future generations of Nepali women.  

“It is my duty to be the voice of tens of thousands of Nepali women who didn’t have the opportunity to get the kind of education I received,” she said in a May 2022 interview with ApEx.

Her resilience extended into her personal life, where she faced societal challenges, including prejudice for being a working woman and marrying outside her caste. These struggles only strengthened her resolve to break barriers and inspire others.  

Born on 13 Feb 1933, in Kurseong, India, where her father lived in exile due to the Rana regime, Shah’s early years were shaped by resilience and determination. After attending St Helen’s Secondary School in Kurseong, she became the first Nepali woman to earn a bachelor’s degree in the United States, graduating from Barnard College, Columbia University, in 1956.  

Later, she pursued a master’s degree in international relations at Johns Hopkins University, funding her education by working as a caretaker. Her academic accomplishments were groundbreaking for Nepal, inspiring countless young women to dream of global opportunities.  

Shah’s professional life demanded immense personal sacrifices, including extended periods of separation from her family. Yet her commitment to her work and the greater cause of national and social progress never wavered.  

In the ‘ApEx Pioneers’ column, her granddaughter Aarya Shah said, “She would always tell me, ‘Don’t follow in my footsteps; start your journey where my footsteps end.’ Her life was a testament to courage and resilience, inspiring me and many others to overcome challenges with confidence.”  

From establishing the American Library in Nepal to mentoring countless diplomats and women leaders, Shah’s contributions were monumental. Her lifelong friend, Helga Bendix, shared for ‘ApEx Pioneers’: “She lived a life that could be an epic movie in which she is the hero. For 70 years, we shared our joys and sorrows, bound by an unbreakable friendship.”  

Shah’s story is a beacon of hope and empowerment. Her courage, determination, and groundbreaking achievements have left an indelible mark on Nepal’s history and society. She is survived by her son, Anil Keshary Shah, a prominent former banker, and other family members who carry forward her legacy.

“People see my life and say, wow, it’s a fairy tale. But there was a series of struggles and pain in this fairy tale. I fought against these challenges because I wanted to be a catalyst for change,” she had said in an interview with ApEx.

Her life remains an inspiration for generations to come.

Nepal participated in 324 out of the 392 negotiation meetings it was expected to attend during the 29th Conference of Parties to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) (COP29) held in Baku, Azerbaijan, from Nov 11 to 22. At an event titled ‘Reflection on Nepal’s Participation in COP29 and the International Court of Justice’, organized by the Ministry of Forests and Environment (MoFE) in Kathmandu on Thursday, Ministry Secretary Deepak Kumar Kharal explained that COP29 featured negotiations on 14 agenda items and 96 sub-agendas, totaling 392 meetings, of which Nepal missed 68.

Each of these 14 thematic agendas was attended by Nepali negotiation teams, led by joint-secretaries specializing in the respective topics. Despite criticism at home over the size of the Nepali delegation sent to COP29, Secretary Kharal attributed the missed meetings to an insufficient number of negotiators. He emphasized that the ministry had learned valuable lessons and would aim for better preparation at COP30 and beyond. “We need to establish a dedicated and permanent negotiation team with clear standards and procedures for inclusive participation, involving national delegates, technical experts, and relevant stakeholders,” Kharal said. He also stressed the importance of capacity building for national delegates and technical experts to enhance negotiating skills.

Manjeet Dhakal, a Nepali negotiator and Advisor to the Chair of the Least Developed Countries (LDC) for the multilateral process under the UNFCCC, highlighted the significant improvement in Nepal’s participation in COP over the years, both in terms of quantity and quality. “In the past, Nepal was represented at COP by a very small team from MoFE. However, these days, representatives from other ministries, such as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Ministry of Finance, as well as private sector actors and civil society organizations, also join the discussions, contributing their expertise as needed.” 

Dhakal added that Nepal’s focus has expanded from a limited set of priorities, such as climate finance and adaptation, to a broader range of thematic areas. “For instance, this year alone, we actively participated in discussions across 14 thematic groups, including carbon emissions reduction, loss and damage, and mitigation. This demonstrates that both the quantity and quality of our participation have improved significantly.”

Nepali officials’ inclusion in various global committees also reflects the country’s growing negotiating power. Dhakal pointed out that Maheshwar Dhakal, joint-secretary at MoFE, serves on the Loss and Damage Fund, while Naresh Sharma, under-secretary at MoFE, is a member of the Adaptation Fund. “Through these committees, Nepal is making meaningful interventions.” 

In addition to thematic meetings, COP29 included sessions of the Subsidiary Body for Scientific and Technological Advice (SBSTA), the Subsidiary Body for Implementation (SBI), the Conference of the Parties serving as the meeting of the Parties to the Paris Agreement (CMA), and the Conference of the Parties serving as the meeting of the Parties to the Kyoto Protocol (CMP). These also included 48 coordination meetings of the Least Developed Countries (LDC) Group and ‘G77 and China’, seven plenary sessions, 10 head-of-delegates meetings, and 115 daily thematic coordination meetings, bringing the total to over 500 meetings in which Nepal needed representation.

Buddi Sagar Poudel, the joint-secretary heading the Forest and Watershed Division at the MoFE, also serves as a negotiator representing Nepal at climate conferences. Leading Nepal’s efforts on the ‘Enhanced Transparency Framework’ and ‘Global Stocktake’ themes, he noted that while Nepal has actively engaged in significant negotiations, missing less-priority meetings is inevitable due to the simultaneous nature of numerous sessions. “However, the fact is that we have weak negotiating power. The meetings are multilateral, not bilateral, and sometimes, we feel intimidated in front of hundreds of representatives from powerful countries. There’s a fear of appearing uninformed if we make a mistake. If we fail to communicate our stance clearly and convincingly, we risk offending others or being misunderstood.”

Before COP29, Nepal undertook extensive preparations, including forming thematic groups, conducting consultations and council meetings, training negotiators, organizing a National Climate Summit, and drafting Nepal’s position paper. During COP29, Nepal not only participated in official meetings but also organized side events in pavilions and held bilateral discussions. However, Nepal did not have its own pavilion this time and relied on borrowing space from other countries. This limitation underscored the need for greater logistical and strategic investment in Nepal’s future participation.

To address multilateral challenges, Poudel stressed the importance of building a robust pool of negotiators. “We need individuals with strong research and expertise on the topics being negotiated, but Nepal has very few such resources.” He proposed several measures to strengthen Nepal’s negotiation capacity, including institutional memory and the development of a consistently trained negotiation team. “For instance, if a meeting involves cross-cutting issues related to climate change and energy, we need informed representatives from the Ministry of Energy, Water Resources, and Irrigation, or experts from the relevant field. The same applies to other sectors, like finance.” 

To enhance both the quantity and quality of negotiators, Poudel recommended early training and practical exposure. “Institutions must invest in their negotiators by organizing model COPs and offering practical sessions. Negotiation is a continuous learning process—after attending two or three COPs, a negotiator becomes experienced and can engage more effectively,” Poudel said. Practical exposure would also help build confidence among negotiators when dealing with representatives of more powerful nations.

At COP29, Nepal coordinated thematic presentations and advocated for its position at the LDC meetings. In the G77 and China meetings, Nepal presented the LDC position while also lobbying for its own priorities. According to government officials, Nepal was successful in doing so.

Nepal also participated in other key events, including the Hindu Kush Himalaya Environmental Ministers’ Meeting organized by Bhutan and the High Ambition Coalition Meeting hosted by the Marshall Islands. There too, Nepal got a chance to press its Mountain agenda. Such participation helped Nepal raise awareness about the unique challenges faced by mountain regions, bringing attention to the importance of including mountain-specific strategies in global climate policies.

On the sidelines of COP29, Nepal held numerous bilateral meetings with key stakeholders, including the Secretary-General of the United Nations (UN), the President of the World Green Economy Organization (WEGO), the President of the Maldives, the UN Assistant Secretary-General, and the Executive Director of the Loss and Damage Fund, among others. These discussions provided Nepal with a platform to build alliances and secure commitments for support in addressing climate vulnerabilities. Secretary Kharal noted that UN Assistant Secretary-General Elliott Harris expressed strong support for Nepal’s climate efforts, pledging to provide remarks on behalf of the UN Secretary-General at any event organized by Nepal, provided adequate notice is given. “He was very pleased with Nepal’s commitment to combating the climate crisis, and this is a result of our extensive meetings, negotiations, and efforts on achieving national and global goals.” 

Nepal made significant strides at COP29 by successfully advocating for the mountain agenda and addressing critical climate issues, according to Kharal. “Mountain is not a formal agenda in COP, but Nepal emphasized the inclusion of mountain-based actions and a mountain-to-marine approach to tackle climate change impacts.” Nepal also played a leading role in coordinating and raising awareness about the common mountain agenda, drawing international attention to the unique challenges faced by mountain regions.

In climate finance, Nepal and other climate-vulnerable countries successfully lobbied to increase annual funding from $100bn to $300bn. The country supported the operationalization of the Loss and Damage Fund, which includes a $1.3trn roadmap from Baku to Belém (Brazil), set to begin in 2025. “We strongly said that we won’t take loans for climate finance,” Kharal said. This firm stance highlighted Nepal’s demand for equity and fairness in accessing climate finance.

Additionally, Nepal highlighted the importance of implementing the National Adaptation Plan (NAP) and operationalizing Article 6 of the Paris Agreement for carbon trading. A bilateral agreement with Sweden for carbon trading marked a key milestone in advancing Nepal’s mitigation efforts. This agreement demonstrated Nepal’s growing capability to engage in meaningful international collaborations.

Nepal also demonstrated progress in transparency and gender inclusion, supporting the launch of the Baku Global Climate Transparency Platform and the ‘Building National Capacities of Nepal to Meet Requirements of the Enhanced Transparency Framework of the Paris Agreement’ (CBIT) Project. The country committed to extending the Enhanced Lima Work Plan for Gender and Inclusion until 2035. High-level political engagement ensured Nepal’s active participation in international dialogues, resulting in Nepal’s election as a member of the Adaptation Fund Board and accreditation for the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC). These achievements underscored Nepal’s commitment to inclusivity and accountability in climate action.

Besides these achievements, Dhakal noted other milestones in Nepal’s climate diplomacy. In May 2024, Nepal hosted the International Expert Dialogue on Mountains, People, and Climate Change, which was attended by a representative from Azerbaijan, the host of COP29. Additionally, Nepal was invited to the pre-COP29 ministerial meeting for the first time in 12 years. “These achievements indicate that Nepal’s voice is being heard on the global stage,” Dhakal said. Such recognition marks a shift in Nepal’s global standing, opening doors for more significant collaborations.

While acknowledging the progress, Dhakal stressed that more work needs to be done. “We are never fully satisfied, but looking back at where we started, we have made significant progress.” However, this progress must be supplemented with more strategic planning and capacity-building initiatives to maximize Nepal’s impact in global forums.

Joint-secretary Poudel proposed hiring international trainers to provide specialized training. “Such training is not only crucial for COPs but also for other multilateral meetings and negotiations,” Poudel pointed out. “Moreover, these training shouldn’t be limited to one or two officials but should involve at least 15–20 officers to build a permanent negotiation team.” 

At Thursday’s event, Foreign Minister Arzu Rana Deuba said that through effective negotiations, Nepal should aim to secure at least $10bn annually in climate finance from the designated $300bn global climate fund. She emphasized the need for Nepal to raise its voice more assertively on the global stage for climate justice, climate finance, and compensation. She highlighted the paradoxical situation where Nepal, despite contributing negligibly to carbon emissions, suffers disproportionately from their adverse effects. This underscores the necessity for Nepal to play a more active role internationally to tackle these challenges and advocate for equitable solutions.

Minister Rana also shared that on Dec 9, her delegation, representing Nepal, made its first oral submission on ‘State Responsibilities on Climate Change’ at an international hearing at the International Court of Justice. During the hearing, she forcefully raised the issue of Nepal enduring consequences for mistakes it never made and stressed the need for responsible developed nations to take equal responsibility in addressing the climate crisis and establishing the principle of climate justice. Such advocacy is critical for amplifying Nepal’s voice on the international stage.

Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli also vowed that the government would take the lead in managing climate finance to cope with the climate crisis. He emphasized that climate change issues in mountains are not just the concerns of mountainous countries. “Our efforts should be for protecting the mountains to seas,” he stressed. He urged stakeholders to prepare for COP30 through bold negotiations and a thorough evaluation of COP29. 

Key achievements

• Nepal played a pivotal role in highlighting mountain dialogues and drawing international attention to the mountain agenda.
• Successfully coordinated the collective mountain agenda and ensured high-level political engagement.
• Signed an agreement with the Swedish government for carbon trading.
• Nepal was elected as a member of the Adaptation Fund Board and secured accreditation for the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC).
• Launched two climate-related projects in the presence of a Global Environment Facility (GEF) representative.
• Enhanced the capacity of Nepali delegates in climate negotiations and technical discussions.

The District Police Office, Kaski, has concluded its investigation into the cooperative fraud case involving Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) Chairperson Rabi Lamichhane and submitted its report to the District Attorney’s Office on Monday. The report recommends prosecuting 51 individuals, including Lamichhane, former DIG Chhabilal Joshi, Ram Prasad Khanal, and Lila Pachhai, who are currently in police custody. Most of the other suspects remain at large.

The suspects have been charged with cooperative fraud, organized crime, and money laundering. Kaski police have also recommended recovery of around Rs 1.51bn. The investigation revealed that Lamichhane and others were involved in irregularities concerning funds from Suryadarshan Cooperative in Kaski, which were allegedly diverted to Gorkha Media Network and misused. 

Evidence gathered during the course of investigation includes checks issued by Lamichhane to repay loans taken from multiple cooperatives. Lamichhane, however, has claimed that the checks in question were left in a drawer during his tenure as the managing director of Gorkha Media Network, and someone else may have filled them out without his consent.  

The investigation, which began with Suryadarshan Cooperative, expanded to four other cooperatives: Kathmandu’s Swarnalakshmi Cooperative, Chitwan’s Sahara Chitwan Cooperative, Birgunj’s Sano Paila Cooperative, and Nepalgunj’s Samanata Cooperative.  

Police investigation has revealed that Lamichhane and his associates took out loans, including Rs 4.6m each from Swarnalakshmi Cooperative, to purchase vehicles in Lamichhane and GB Rai’s names.  

Lamichhane faced these allegations while serving as Deputy Prime Minister and Home Minister in the coalition government of the CPN (Maoist Center), CPN-UML, and RSP. The opposition party at the time, Nepali Congress, had made this case a major agenda in parliament, demanding the formation of a parliamentary committee to investigate cooperative irregularities.

A parliamentary committee led by UML MP Surya Thapa found Lamichhane guilty of misusing cooperative funds. The committee’s report revealed that Rs 224.6m from six cooperatives, including Suryadarshan, Supreme, Swarnalakshmi, Sahara, Sano Paila, and Samanata, had been funneled into Gorkha Media Network.  

In response to the report, police arrested former DIG Joshi on Sept 22 and Lamichhane on Oct 19 from his party office in Banasthali. Further legal proceedings are ongoing. Lamichhane was apprehended after the Kaski District Court issued an arrest warrant against him. Prior to the arrest, Lamichhane organized a press conference and said that he had been framed by the state.

The parliamentary special panel, formed to investigate crisis-ridden cooperatives, had recommended in its report that the government initiate legal action against Joshi, one of the founders of the Gorkha Media Network, along with the company’s chair, Rai, then managing director Lamichhane, and board member Kumar Ramtel.

The committee’s report was submitted to Speaker of the House of Representatives Devraj Ghimire on Sept 16 and subsequently forwarded to the government. A Cabinet meeting on Sept 19 received the report and directed the ministries and agencies concerned to implement it.

Following the parliamentary panel’s directives, Minister of Home Affairs Ramesh Lekhak ordered Nepal Police to expedite legal action on the cooperatives scam. INTERPOL has already issued a diffusion notice for Rai, who remains on the run.

Ramtel is already in judicial custody in Kaski for his role in misusing cooperative funds. The law allows a detention period of up to 60 days for investigating suspects of organized crime and 90 days for money laundering cases. Authorities aim to present the four individuals currently in custody in court on Tuesday to extend their detention. If possible, the district attorney plans to file the case on the same day.

Human-wildlife conflict in the buffer zones of Nepal’s national parks is a persistent issue, causing economic losses, endangering livelihoods, and posing risks to both humans and wildlife. These conflicts are particularly severe in the buffer zones of Chitwan National Park (CNP) and Parsa National Park (PNP). Spanning 750 square kilometers and 285.3 square kilometers respectively, these buffer zones include forests, private lands, and cultivated areas that support endangered species such as one-horned rhinoceroses, Bengal tigers, elephants, leopards, and crocodiles.

In the fiscal year 2023/24 alone, 11 people in the CNP buffer zone lost their lives to wild animal attacks. Rhino attacks caused five deaths, tigers claimed four lives, and mugger crocodiles killed two people. These statistics highlight the ongoing and dire consequences of human-wildlife conflict.

Buffer zones are co-managed by park authorities and local communities, with portions of park revenue allocated to community development and natural resource management. These areas aim to balance ecological preservation and community involvement. Yet, the challenges remain immense, particularly as locals struggle to maintain livelihoods while coexisting with wildlife.

In Icchyanagar, Thori Rural Municipality-2, Parsa, residents like Krishna Bahadur Jyoti are finding innovative ways to secure their livelihoods while reducing wildlife conflict. Once burdened by financial losses—including a tiger killing his goat—Jyoti now keeps 25 goats in predator-proof corrals. Built with support from the Buffer Zone User Committee and local resources, these corrals have stabilized his finances.

Jyoti’s wife, Durga, recalls their hardships: “Three years ago, a tiger killed a goat we bought with a loan. Now, with the corrals, we sleep peacefully, pay for our children’s education, and manage daily needs.”

This initiative, part of the Terai Arc Landscape (TAL) program, has been instrumental in reducing conflicts. According to Prem Poudel, eastern cluster in-charge of TAL, similar corrals built in Thori and other buffer zone areas have reduced annual goat losses from 30–40 to near zero.

In Gopalnagar of Madi Municipality, Chitwan, locals have shifted to fish farming as a way to mitigate losses from crop damage and livestock predation. Led by community leader Kamal Bhujel, the establishment of the Gopalnagar Fisheries Farmers Cooperative Society has transformed the area into a fisheries hub, producing seven tons of fish annually across 105 hectares. Fish farming has proven to be five times more profitable than traditional agriculture.

Additionally, trenches, dams, and solar-powered fences constructed with TAL program support have reduced wildlife incursions, saving both lives and livelihoods. These measures have also helped prevent migration triggered by conflict.

In Ayodhyapuri, Madi Municipality, women from the Bote community have embraced entrepreneurship by managing community homestays. Previously reliant on fishing and farming, these women now host 7,000–10,000 guests annually across 12 homestays, offering organic meals, cultural performances, and eco-tourism experiences.

Prakash Dhungana, chairperson of the Buffer Zone Management Committee, notes that this initiative has empowered women and fostered biodiversity conservation by encouraging coexistence with wildlife.

In Meghauli, Chitwan, duck farmers like Chameli Chaudhary have found success using river weeds (sewar) as duck feed. Once collected from Chitwan National Park, sewar is now cultivated in nearby community forests through initiatives by the Meghauli Intermediate Consumers’ Committee. This shift has reduced the risks of wildlife encounters and contributed to river conservation.

Duck farming has become a profitable livelihood, with ducks sold at Rs 2,000 for males and Rs 1,500 for females. Additionally, locals have shifted the cultivation of edible ferns (niuro) from national park premises to local farmland, further reducing conflicts.

To minimize crop losses, communities in Meghauli and surrounding areas have also turned to turmeric and lemon farming, crops that are not targeted by wildlife. These alternative practices provide sustainable income while ensuring safety from wildlife incursions.

Despite these measures, challenges persist. Solar-powered electric fences, while effective in keeping wildlife at bay, carry risks of accidental electrocution. Continuous awareness campaigns and safety measures are essential to mitigate such risks.

Behavior Change Communication (BCC) classes have been introduced in areas like Pandabnagar, Madi, to educate locals on coexistence strategies. Youths such as Poonam Pariyar are now sharing this knowledge within their communities, fostering greater awareness and cooperation.

“In Shikaribas, Thori Rural Municipality-3—a critical corridor linking PNP, CNP, and India’s Valmiki Tiger Reserve—similar community-led efforts are underway,” says Poudel. “These initiatives aim to reduce conflicts while maintaining the ecological balance necessary for the survival of species like tigers and elephants.”

While predator-proof corrals, electric fences, and sustainable farming practices have significantly reduced human-wildlife conflicts, the road to coexistence remains complex. Local communities, conservationists, and government bodies must continue collaborating to balance ecological integrity and human safety.

The 29th COP (COP29), held in Baku, Azerbaijan, brought together representatives from nearly 200 countries. The event focused heavily on climate finance, earning it the nickname ‘Finance COP’.

Negotiations at COP were conducted in groups, enabling participants to share perspectives, negotiate terms, and agree on common agendas. High-level sessions allowed the heads of delegations to address the assembly, presenting their country’s positions, priorities, and demands. While these speeches help amplify nations’ voices, the heart of COP lies in the negotiations and agreements.

Experts often warn against evaluating how a specific country fared at COP, as success is typically measured collectively rather than individually.

While it is difficult to assess how Nepal, as a country, specifically fared at COP29, the conference concluded with several decisions and outcomes relevant to Nepal.

First and foremost—financing. More than 80 countries, including members of the African Group, Barbados, Least Developed Countries (LDCs), and small island states, jointly demanded the needed additional financing beyond the $1.3trn already outlined for climate action. Experts estimate that $1.3trn is needed annually. These countries proposed a roadmap to the COP29 presidency to resolve discussions around the New Collective Quantified Goal (NCQG) for climate finance. This proposed target aims to enable climate action in emerging and developing nations post-2025, replacing the outdated $100bn annual goal set during COP15 in Copenhagen over a decade ago.

However, at the last moment on the final day of COP29, the presidency unveiled the final agreement. The deal sets an annual target of mobilizing $300bn for developing countries by 2035. Additionally, it establishes a long-term goal to scale up total climate finance flows to $1.3trn per year by 2035 which is rarely going to happen because the wealthy countries failed to meet the previous goal of $100bn on time. This decision sparked outrage among climate-vulnerable nations, who criticized it as inadequate given the urgent climate challenges they face.

Even the president of COP29 Mukhtar Babayev admitted the deal was imperfect and was insufficient to meet escalating needs. 

The group of LDCs expressed outrage and deep disappointment at the outcome of COP29. In a statement, they said, “Once again, the countries most responsible for the climate crisis have failed us. We leave Baku without an ambitious climate finance goal, without concrete plans to limit global temperature rise to 1.5°C, and without the comprehensive support desperately needed for adaptation and loss and damage. This is not just a failure; it is a betrayal.”

Nepal, as a member of the LDC group, echoed this sentiment. “The voice of LDCs is also of Nepal,” noted Nepali experts and government officials.

Manjeet Dhakal, a Nepali negotiator and Advisor to the Chair of the LDCs for the multilateral process under the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), acknowledged the mixed outcome. “While we did not achieve everything needed to fully respond to the climate crisis, the voices of the most vulnerable were heard. The work continues, and the fight against climate catastrophe goes on.”

He added, “We leave this COP with both pride and pain. Pride in the resilience of our bloc, as we fought valiantly for the survival of the most vulnerable, but pain that our hopes for true climate justice have not been met. On the positive side, securing $300bn annually is three times the previous $100bn target.”

Another significant decision at COP29 relevant to Nepal was the operationalization of market-based cooperative approaches (carbon trading) under Articles 6.2 and 6.4 of the Paris Agreement. After nearly a decade of stalled negotiations, the agreement finalized the rules for international carbon markets, enabling countries to trade carbon credits and collaborate on reducing emissions more cost-effectively.

The agreement’s two key elements include guidelines for country-to-country trading and the establishment of the Paris Agreement Trading Mechanism.

Maheshwar Dhakal, joint-secretary at the Ministry of Forests and Environment (MoFE), said COP29 has paved the way for countries to develop national policies and agendas on carbon trading. “It’s up to countries whether they want to pursue it through government-to-government (G2G) arrangements, government-to-private sector partnerships, or voluntary or competitive approaches.”

Dhakal acknowledged that Nepal, being relatively new to carbon trading, lacks extensive knowledge and experience in this area. “We should adopt a flexible approach in the initial phase and gradually become more competitive as we gain experience in the next phase. At least now, we no longer face the obstacle of international law hindering our progress,” he added.

The launch of the Baku Adaptation Roadmap and the Baku High-Level Dialogue on Adaptation—aimed at enhancing the implementation of the UAE Framework and establishing a clear path for the Indicators Work Program on the Global Goal on Adaptation (GGA) at COP30—is another significant development for Nepal. Dhakal highlights that some mountain-related issues were addressed regarding the GGA. “As further discussions on mountain agendas have been postponed to the next sessions, we cannot label this a failure, but neither do we have concrete achievements to show,” Dhakal said.

Loss and damage is another key area of interest for Nepal. At COP29, it was decided to ensure the full operationalization of the Loss and Damage Fund, a long-awaited development for climate-vulnerable countries. To date, total pledged financial support for the Fund exceeds $730m. It is expected that the Fund will begin financing projects starting in 2025. However, no further agreements were reached, and negotiations on the specifics were postponed to the next session.

“The calculation of the price of non-economic losses is challenging, and it cannot be done without capacity development. Unfortunately, Latin American and African countries had differing views on capacity development, preventing us from achieving a concrete outcome on this issue,” said Dhakal, who also serves as a board member of the Fund for Responding to Loss and Damage.

COP29 did nothing to implement the outcomes of the Global Stocktake Agreement, which called for phasing out fossil fuels and aligning climate pledges with the 1.5°C target. Parties failed to reach an agreement to include explicit commitments to transition away from fossil fuels, leaving this critical negotiation to be revisited at COP30.

According to Dhakal, climate action cannot progress without major carbon emitters phasing out fossil fuels and supporting vulnerable nations through climate finance for adaptation. “But we also need to take responsibility to protect ourselves. For example, the Thame flood was caused by a natural glacial lake outburst from Thyanbo, but the Kathmandu flood was the result of reckless and unplanned infrastructure development and our negligence,” he explained.

Manjeet Dhakal assessed the three major expectations from COP29. “For climate finance, I would rate it two out of 10. For mitigation, I would give zero because, regarding the Global Stocktake, we are still where we were before COP29—not a single step of progress. As for carbon trading, I would give full marks, as it has been fully operationalized. However, we had no issues with carbon trading earlier also, yet we are still not fully utilizing our potential in this area,” he said. 

Several agreements were signed by Nepal on the sidelines of COP29. These include the accreditation of the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) by the Adaptation Fund (AF) for five years, allowing NTNC to function as its National Implementing Entity (NIE). This accreditation grants NTNC direct access to the AF and enables it to develop and implement adaptation and resilience projects of up to $10m each. Additionally, an agreement was signed between the MoFE and the Swedish Energy Agency on emissions trading. Furthermore, MoFE and WWF Nepal launched two GEF-funded projects: Managing Watersheds for Enhanced Resilience of Communities to Climate Change in Nepal (MaWRiN), with a budget of $9m, and Building National Capacities of Nepal to Meet Requirements of the Enhanced Transparency Framework of the Paris Agreement (CBIT), with a budget of $1.65m.

However, Joint-secretary Dhakal stated that while Nepal entered into these agreements during COP29, they are not direct outcomes of the conference. “We would have signed these even if there had been no COP.” He added that Nepal’s key outcome from COP29 is the potential to receive three times the benefit in climate finance, the opportunity to extensively work on carbon trading, and the ability to focus on and enhance capacity development, drawing from the experience gained at large platforms like COP.

Experts also emphasized the importance of increasing Nepal’s qualitative and strategic participation, rather than focusing solely on quantity. The Nepali delegation to COP29 was led by President Ramchandra Paudel, marking the fifth time Nepal has been represented at the head of state or government level at the UN Climate Change Conference.

At these high-level conferences, heads of state or government deliver country statements during the leaders’ or high-level segments and participate in other high-level events. President Paudel addressed the World Leaders Climate Action Summit. “These statements are important as they reflect a country’s political stance on climate change and provide guidance for the ongoing negotiations,” said Manjeet Dhakal. “Nepal’s continued leadership at these global forums underscores its commitment to addressing climate change and highlights its evolving role—not only as a vulnerable country but also as a frontline leader in climate action.”

Minister for Forests and Environment Ain Bahadur Shahi was also actively engaged in various bilateral and multilateral meetings under the common agenda of ‘Protecting the Himalayas is Protecting the Earth.’

It is clear that Nepal is being heard on the global stage. For example, in May 2024, Nepal hosted the International Expert Dialogue on Mountains, People, and Climate Change, with Azerbaijan, the host of COP29, sending a representative to the event. Additionally, Nepal was invited to the pre-COP29 ministerial meeting for the first time in 12 years.

The COP29 UN Climate Conference concluded in Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, on Sunday with an agreement to triple climate finance for developing countries to $300bn annually by 2035. This is a part of the New Collective Quantified Goal on Climate Finance (NCQG) aimed at helping vulnerable nations combat climate disasters and participate in the global clean energy boom.

In addition to public finance, the agreement commits to mobilizing $1.3trn annually by 2035 from both public and private sources.

UN Secretary-General António Guterres acknowledged the significance of the agreement, stressing that it was essential to keeping the 1.5-degree climate target alive. While expressing a desire for more ambitious commitments, he highlighted that the agreement provides a foundation for future progress, stressing the need for swift action and timely implementation of financial commitments.

“The promises must quickly become cash,” Guterres urged, calling on countries to ensure the upper end of the new financial goal is met. He also praised the progress made in emissions reductions, the energy transition and carbon market agreements, despite the challenging geopolitical landscape.

Simon Stiell, executive secretary of UN Climate Change, described the agreement as “an insurance policy for humanity.” He emphasized that the success of this policy depends on timely fulfillment of financial commitments, which are essential to safeguard billions of lives and drive the global clean energy transition.  

“The agreement will keep the clean energy boom growing, ensuring all countries share its benefits: more jobs, stronger growth and cleaner, cheaper energy,” Stiell said in the COP29 closing plenary. “At COP28, the world agreed to triple renewables. At COP29, we tripled climate finance and countries will work to mobilize much, much more. At COP28, the world agreed to boost climate resilience. COP29 will help finance real protections for those on the frontlines, especially the most vulnerable.”

“The $300bn per year deal negotiated in Baku is weak, shortsighted and wholly inadequate to address the mounting threats of the climate crisis, and fails to protect the millions of lives on the line”, said Jess Beagley, policy lead at the Global Climate and Health Alliance, a consortium of more than 200 health professional and health civil society organizations from around the world.

The International Energy Agency estimates that global clean energy investments will exceed $2trn in 2024. This builds on strides made at COP27, which established a Loss and Damage Fund, and COP28, which committed to phasing out fossil fuels, tripling renewable energy and enhancing climate resilience.

For the first time, COP29 achieved consensus on carbon markets under Article 6 of the Paris Agreement. This agreement provides clarity on country-to-country carbon credit trading and operationalizes a centralized carbon market under the UN. Developing nations are expected to benefit from increased financial flows, while least developed countries will receive capacity-building support to participate.

The Paris Agreement Crediting Mechanism includes safeguards to ensure projects meet environmental and human rights standards, require Indigenous Peoples’ consent and provide avenues for appeals. The mechanism aligns with scientific guidance to maximize environmental integrity.  

COP29 made significant strides in transparent climate reporting, a cornerstone for strengthening climate policies. Thirteen countries, including Azerbaijan, the EU and Japan, submitted their Biennial Transparency Reports (BTRs), setting a benchmark for others. The Enhanced Transparency Framework (ETF) reporting tools and technical training supported these efforts.

A total of 42 events under the #Together4Transparency initiative showcased the importance of transparency in preparing Nationally Determined Contributions (NDCs) and identifying funding opportunities.

Adaptation was a central theme at COP29. Agreements included the launch of the Baku Adaptation Roadmap, provisions for National Adaptation Plans (NAPs) in least developed countries and commitments to expedite their implementation by 2025. A high-level dialogue brought together ministers, donors and financial experts to accelerate climate adaptation efforts.

The global goal on adaptation was advanced with plans to continue work on indicators ahead of COP30. The renewed emphasis on transformational adaptation highlights the urgency of addressing the needs of the most vulnerable populations.

The Baku Work Plan renewed the mandate of the Local Communities and Indigenous Peoples Platform (LCIPP) to amplify their voices in climate action. This decision underscores their leadership in addressing the climate crisis and fostering collaboration among stakeholders.

Countries extended the enhanced Lima Work Program on Gender and Climate Change for another decade and agreed to develop a new Gender Action Plan by COP30. The conference also emphasized the role of youth, with children as young as ten participating as moderators and speakers, showcasing a commitment to intergenerational collaboration.

While COP29 marked significant progress, Stiell acknowledged that it fell short of meeting all expectations. He urged nations to focus on unresolved issues in the lead-up to COP30 in Belem, Brazil. “We leave Baku with a mountain of work to do,” Stiell said. “The UN Paris Agreement is humanity’s life-raft. It’s our collective responsibility to keep moving forward.”

In his closing statement, Guterres reflected on a year marked by extreme weather events and rising emissions. He emphasized the urgency of addressing climate finance, particularly for developing nations grappling with debt, disasters and exclusion from the renewable energy revolution.

Looking ahead, Guterres called for countries to deliver enhanced climate action plans, with G20 nations leading the way in reducing emissions and accelerating the fossil fuel phase-out. He also called for swift action on debt, concessional finance, and the recapitalization of Multilateral Development Banks to support developing countries.

As for Nepal’s participation, President Ramchandra Paudel addressed the World Leaders Climate Action Summit and also addressed a high-level session organized by Kyrgyzstan on ‘Advancing Mountain Agenda’. Nepal also hosted a high-level session titled “Addressing Climate-Induced Loss and Damage in Mountainous Regions,” and unveiled two projects—Managing Watersheds for Enhanced Resilience of Communities to Climate Change in Nepal (MaWRiN) and Building National Capacities of Nepal to Meet Requirements of the Enhanced Transparency Framework of the Paris Agreement (CBIT)—funded by the Global Environment Facility (GEF).

In his summit address, President Paudel urged that vast resources currently allocated for arms be redirected toward adaptation and mitigation to safeguard humanity and ensure a habitable planet for future generations. “Not only have pledges for climate funding been insufficient from the outset, but the funds remain largely unmet,” he noted, pointing out that complicated procedures prevent targeted communities from accessing these funds. He called for immediate implementation of the “polluter pays and compensates” principle.

Plastic waste has long been an issue in Nepal, with plastic litter found everywhere—from the world’s highest peak, Sagarmatha, to the rivers of the Tarai plains. But who is responsible for managing this waste?

The Local Government Operation Act of 2015 mandates local governments to manage waste effectively. However, the lack of adequate budget, resources, and awareness at the local level hampers these efforts.

While the distribution of royalties from natural resources is clearly outlined, with 50 percent allocated to the federal government and 25 percent each to the provincial and local governments (as per Section 7 of the Intergovernmental Fiscal Management Act, 2017), local governments in domestic tourist destinations often miss out. They struggle to benefit from the center or the National Natural Resources and Fiscal Commission (NNRFC).

The Constitution of Nepal (2015) grants the NNRFC the authority to recommend how investments and returns from natural resources should be shared among the three tiers of government. However, local governments in tourist hotspots do not receive sufficient budget or attention from the authorities.

Many local bodies lack essential infrastructure, such as landfills and garbage trucks. A 2019/20 survey by the Central Bureau of Statistics (CBS) of 271 municipalities found that while 85.6 percent of municipalities reported having waste transportation services, rural municipalities have made minimal efforts to manage plastic waste, often citing budget constraints.

Ramhari Gyawali, spokesperson for the NNRFC, explained that all 753 local levels in Nepal receive a share of royalties based on their contribution to royalty collection. This means that localities with thriving local tourism—especially those benefiting from rivers and forests—often receive a smaller share due to their lower contribution to royalties.

Local levels lack updated data on plastic waste, hindering systematic solutions

Take Sailung, located 3,146 meters above sea level in Dolakha district, as an example. It has recently become a popular hiking destination for domestic tourists, but the sight of scattered plastic waste detracts from its natural beauty. This issue is not confined to Sailung; it is prevalent across many tourist destinations and hiking trails in the country, including popular spots like Shivapuri, Jamacho, and Phulchowki, as well as along rivers in tourist areas.

What happens to the plastic waste? Often, it is either left behind or burned—both of which contribute to environmental degradation and climate change. Burning plastic releases harmful toxins, severely affecting air quality. Environmental expert Ujjwal Upadhyay, project team leader for the Collaborative Approach for Preventing Plastic Leakages in Rivers of Nepal (CAP), warns that burning plastic is a dangerous practice, as it directly harms the air and public health, even increasing the risk of cancer.

Nepal, famous for its majestic mountains and cultural heritage, now faces a hidden menace: plastic pollution. Despite existing laws aimed at reducing plastic use, single-use plastics continue to accumulate along the nation’s rivers and trails, burdening local communities and tourism. The question remains: what is the true cost of plastic pollution?

Kalapani, located in Sailung Rural Municipality-8, serves as the gateway for visitors heading to Sailung. The area is home to several hotels catering to tourists, but it is also burdened with significant plastic waste.

The ‘Tourism Master Plan of Kalapani and Sailung Area (2022-2032)’, prepared by Sailung Rural Municipality, highlights the importance of agriculture as the primary occupation of local villagers. The report notes that 38 percent of the total land area in Sailung is arable, though it is increasingly affected by changing climate patterns.

As noted by Bishnu Maya Shrestha, a local resident of Kalapani, snowfall—once reliable from mid-October—is now sparse, occurring only around February. This shift has a detrimental impact on local agriculture, with crops like cauliflower, corn, wheat, and potatoes showing decreasing yields.

Yet, the same report does not address one of the most immediate challenges: plastic waste generated by tourism. The lack of waste management initiatives exacerbates the problem.

Rimal Babu Shrestha, chair of Sailung Rural Municipality, acknowledges the issue but says they have not yet considered waste management for Sailung. “We sometimes collect plastic waste from the area and burn it,” he told ApEx. “Banning plastic is not an option, as implementation would be difficult,” he added. 

According to Shrestha, the rural municipality has no data on waste production, nor are there dustbins for tourists along the hiking trail. This lack of infrastructure highlights the broader challenge faced by local governments: a lack of resources, awareness, and effective policies to address plastic pollution.

Similarly, Khadichaur, located in Balephi Rural Municipality-7 of Sindhupalchowk district, is another popular spot for local tourists, where visitors enjoy the Sunkoshi River and local fish. However, like many other areas, the riverbanks are littered with plastic waste. Hotels along the riverbank dispose of their plastic waste directly into the river. When this journalist asked one hotel owner why they were discarding waste into the river, he simply replied, “Everyone does it.”

A similar situation exists in Balephi Rural Municipality. The local body does not collect waste. Ganga Bahadur Tamang, chairperson of Balephi Rural Municipality, explains that they lack a landfill site, which is why waste collection is not feasible. “We’ve asked hotel owners not to dump waste in the river, as the area is a tourist site, but they don’t listen,” he says. “We also don’t have a policy to impose fines.”

While tourism has undoubtedly contributed to Nepal’s economy, it has also exacerbated plastic consumption and waste. This growing problem not only threatens the environment but also tarnishes Nepal’s reputation as a pristine tourist destination. In fact, reports and social media posts from tourists reflect concerns over the visible plastic waste, a negative image that could impact Nepal's tourism industry.

Beyond tourism, plastic pollution imposes hidden costs on local communities. Local governments near popular tourist trails and urban areas face the burden of waste management, yet they lack the resources and infrastructure to cope with the volume of waste. Consequently, waste is often dumped in rivers or open spaces, exacerbating the problem.

Madhav Karki, an environmentalist and chief advisor to the Minister for Forests and Environment, highlights the additional dangers of plastic waste, such as its ability to block river flows and drainage systems, which can lead to floods. “Plastic waste also infiltrates agricultural fields, harming soil quality and crop yields,” he adds. “Communities that rely on local rivers for irrigation and drinking water face the risk of contamination as plastic waste degrades and releases toxins.”

In addition, inadequate waste disposal methods mean that plastic litter is often burned in open pits, releasing harmful toxins that pollute the air and threaten public health. Local residents near trekking routes are particularly vulnerable to the health and economic impacts of plastic pollution.

In many municipalities across Nepal, waste is disposed of improperly, with some even using forest land for disposal. Even cities like Bhaktapur and Kirtipur dump waste on riverbanks and in public areas. A 2020 study by the UNDP Accelerator Lab Nepal revealed that urban areas generate over 350 tons of plastic waste daily, with nearly a third of this waste ending up in rivers.

Upadhyay explains that the presence of plastics in rivers ultimately impacts human health. Microplastics from contaminated river water enter the food chain, affecting crops and aquatic animals, which humans then consume. A study reported by ‘The Guardian’ in Aug 2024 found that brain samples collected earlier that year contained, on average, approximately 0.5 percent plastic by weight. This discovery raises concerns about the potential health implications of microplastics accumulating in human tissues. Previous research has shown that microplastics can enter the human body through ingestion, inhalation, and dermal contact, potentially leading to inflammation, oxidative stress, and other adverse health effects.

This issue extends to wildlife as well. A recent study found that rhinos in Chitwan National Park ingest plastic items of various sizes and shapes, posing serious risks to their health and survival. Published in the journal ‘Global Ecology and Conservation’, the study analyzed 258 dung samples from the park, revealing that 10.1 percent contained visible plastic.

In response to the crisis, the government has implemented the Solid Waste Management Act (2011) and Solid Waste Management Rules (2013), though enforcement remains weak. One major challenge is the lack of waste segregation at the source, which complicates recycling efforts.

The Intergovernmental Fiscal Management Act (2017) unevenly allocates royalties, leaving domestic tourist hubs like Sailung underfunded for waste management. Despite the Local Government Operation Act (2015) mandate, local governments face critical shortages in budgets, resources, and essential infrastructure like landfills and garbage trucks

Nepal has a long history of attempts to ban plastic bags. The first initiative came in 1998 when Hetauda Municipality introduced a ban, though its effectiveness gradually faded over time. By 2010, other municipalities began implementing similar restrictions. In 2013, Kathmandu Metropolitan City took a significant step by enforcing its own ban on plastic bags. On 1 April 2015, the Nepal government introduced the ban on plastic bags, for the first time, following a directive from the Parliament Environment Committee. However, due to the massive earthquake, the ban could not be enforced properly.

In May 2022, the government introduced the ‘Action Plan for the Ban on Plastic Bags’, which included four key strategies: preventing the import of plastic bags thinner than 40 microns, banning single-use plastic bags thinner than 40 microns, providing grants to businesses for eco-friendly bag production, and encouraging individuals to use reusable bags while shopping.

In July 2023, the government introduced the ban on plastic bags and products that are less than 40 microns thick. This includes the production, import, sale, distribution, and use of these products.

In Oct 2024, the Department of Tourism announced a ban on the use of plastic bottles in four-star, five-star, and luxury hotels as part of a broader push toward environmental sustainability. This directive requires these establishments to use glass bottles or metal vessels for serving drinking water in hotel rooms and restaurants.

However, despite these legal reforms, enforcement remains weak.

“Political will is necessary for the strict implementation of these rules,” says Karki. “All three tiers of government, along with other agencies like the security forces, should unite and coordinate to enforce these rules.” He also adds that having similar rules nationwide would make implementation easier.

According to Upadhyay, reducing plastic use requires not only legal reforms but also a shift in people’s behavior. He also points out that Nepal lacks adequate research and data on this issue. 

Nepal’s iconic trekking trails and rivers, such as the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp, are increasingly burdened by plastic waste left behind by trekkers. Meanwhile, popular rivers like the Bagmati, Koshi, and Gandaki are heavily polluted by discarded plastic.

In response, the government launched the Sagarmatha Clean-Up Campaign in 2019 to raise awareness about plastic pollution in the mountains. Through the campaign, the Nepali Army has since collected around 119 tons of waste, with most of it being plastic.

Ang Babu Sherpa, leader of the Sherpa team for the ‘Mountain Clean-Up Campaign’, stated that up to 40-50 tons of garbage may still remain at South Col, the final camp before climbers attempts the summit, according to the Associated Press. “The waste there consists mainly of old tents, food packaging, gas canisters, oxygen bottles, tent packs, and climbing ropes,” he explained, noting that the garbage is layered and frozen at the 8,000-meter altitude of the South Col camp.

In recent years, a government mandate requiring climbers to return their trash or forfeit their deposits, combined with increased environmental awareness among climbers, has greatly reduced the amount of waste left behind. However, this was not the case in past decades.

According to Nepali Army spokesperson Brigadier General Gaurav Kumar KC, the Army’s role in national parks is limited to providing security, not collecting waste from hiking and trekking trails. He stresses the need for collaboration among the national park office, the Army, and other relevant departments and government agencies for effective waste control and management. “There should be strict rules and awareness initiatives for visitors at checkpoints. However, these rules won’t be practical if we don’t have sufficient dustbins in the area,” he explains. “Frequent signage indicating dustbin locations is also necessary to encourage proper waste disposal.”

Since waste collection falls outside the Nepali Army’s responsibilities, they do not have data on it. ApEx reached out to the information officer of Chitwan National Park for data on waste collection in the area, but they also lack any related records.

A survey conducted in 58 municipalities of Nepal in 2012 found that the average municipal solid waste generation was 317 grams per capita per day, amounting to 1,435 tons daily or 524,000 tons annually. 

A 2019/20 baseline survey by the CBS of 271 municipalities revealed that only 12 (4.4 percent) used transfer stations for waste processing.

Additionally, 99 municipalities (36.5 percent) had waste management plans, while 57.2 percent did not. Among the surveyed municipalities, 114 (42.1 percent) used landfill sites, 117 (43.2 percent) did not, and 14.8 percent did not report about their landfill site status.

And this is the latest data CBS has.

“Plastic waste management is not only Nepal’s problem, but a global crisis. However, many other nations and cities have banned it and enforced rules to properly address this issue,” Karki says, emphasizing that it is not an impossible task. “We should learn from international practices and implement them here as well.”

While international examples like Bhutan’s ban on plastic and Kenya’s policy against plastic bags offer hope, Nepal’s success in tackling plastic waste will depend on effective local solutions, such as waste segregation at source, recycling programs, and raising awareness about plastic’s environmental impact.

“Many countries have started producing electricity, bricks, cement, bitumen, and other products from plastic waste,” says Karki. “We should follow the 3Rs—reduce, reuse, and recycle,” he suggests.

This story has been produced with the support of the Internews Earth Journalism Network through the Media for Inclusive Green Growth project

Our journey began from Bhaktapur, three friends on bikes, bound for the serene heights of Sailung in Dolakha district, perched at an altitude of 3,146 meters. The destination—about six hours from Kathmandu—has gained popularity as a favored trekking spot for domestic travelers, promising spectacular views and a refreshing break from city life.

We set out on the route from Dhulikhel, weaving through Zero Kilo, Dolalghat, Khadichaur, Mude, and finally Kalapani, from where Sailung is a mere 1.5-hour hike. ‘Sailung’ translates to ‘100 hills’ in the local language, aptly named for the rolling hills that stretch as far as the eye can see. These small hills are Sailung’s unique charm, although our main aim was to glimpse the eastern Himalayan range. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t favor us, and the mountains remained hidden behind a thick layer of clouds.

Most of the route was smooth for riding, but the last 10 kilometers to Kalapani were rough off-road terrain, adding a hint of adventure to the journey. We stayed overnight in Kalapani, where basic accommodations offer a cozy rest for hikers aiming to linger longer.

On our way back, we spent another night by the Bhotekoshi River at Sukute, unwinding on its beach and soaking in the river’s calm flow. For variety, we chose a different route home—returning from Zero Kilo to Kuntabesi, then on to Nagarkot, and finally back to Bhaktapur.

The ride, the laughter, and the moments on the hills made it a memorable escape from the routine—one that blended adventure, friendship, and the timeless beauty of Nepal’s landscapes.