Bhairab Kunda: A journey to the frozen lake
Bhairab Kunda, located in Bhotekoshi Rural Municipality-1, Sindhupalchowk district, north-east of Kathmandu Valley, is a newly opened trekking destination for domestic and international travelers. Despite being close to Kathmandu Valley, Bhairab Kunda has not gained much attention, mainly due to geographical difficulties. Situated at an altitude of 4,250 meters, the lake offers stunning views of Jugal Himalayan Range and Gaurishankar Himalayan Range.
According to Hindu mythology, Bhairab Kunda, a pilgrimage and spiritual site for both Hindus and Buddhist, is believed to be the place where Lord Shiva created the sacred lake by thrusting his trident into the ground. Known for its breathtaking natural beauty, tranquil atmosphere and religious significance, the Bhairab Kunda trail leads to spellbinding mountain vistas, stunning alpine landscapes and ethnic villages.
A good friend of mine introduced this place to me and told the historical and mythological stories about this place. “Have you ever seen a frozen lake?” my friend asked me. I said no. And she proceeded to tell me that the lake will be frozen in February. The way she described the place piqued my curiosity. Upon reaching home, I started searching for the videos of Bhairab Kunda on YouTube. I was fascinated by the blue lake with mountains surrounding it. I also learned that the trek to Bhairab Kunda can be completed in two days.
The next day, I made a plan to visit Bhairab Kunda with my friend. Another friend also decided to join us on the journey. We bought some essential things needed for the trek. The same week, on Friday, we left Kathmandu for Sindhupalchowk at 11:30 am. We had two routes to go to Sindhupalchowk—one from Dhulikhel and another from Nagarkot. We decided to take the Nagarkot route, as it would be shorter for us to travel from Boudha. We were excited for the journey, as we were taking our motorcycles this time. Fortunately, the weather was on our side; it was a beautiful day and the landscapes en route were mesmerising.
We stopped for lunch by the riverside at Sukute after riding for nearly three hours. The next spot we stopped on that day was the Last Resort. We rested there for a while and had some cold drinks. Before leaving Kathmandu, we had information that the road would be nice and smooth till Daklan and we had to go off-road for around 40 km. The off-road journey was bumpy, slippery and dangerous.
We reached Listi at around 6 pm, and it was getting dark. We had to take extra caution and be careful riding in the dark. The plan was to reach Chokor Mokor, but when we reached Bagam at 7 pm we were knackered. A hotel owner at Bagam suggested that we spend the night at his place, as the road ahead was not good for traveling at night.
But we decided to press on. The road was treacherous. At some sections, we had to push our bikes. Although we were tired, we had a perfect night sky; countless twinkling stars above us.
We reached Chokor Mokor where Pasang dai, the tea house owner, was waiting for us. After keeping all our belongings in our room, we went to the kitchen to warm ourselves by the fire. We met three other people there. We had a chat with them for some time and had our dinner.
The cold was intense—water turned to ice almost instantly. Pasang dai explained the severe water shortage in the area, mentioning that he had to pay Rs 8,000 for a 500-liter tank of water. The lack of electricity and proper toilets added to the challenges.
That night, one of our fellow travelers suffered from altitude sickness and had to be taken to a lower elevation. Early the next morning, one of our friends also experienced breathing difficulties and began vomiting. After administering medication and ensuring he was stable, we started our hike to Bhairab Kunda at 6 am. The three-hour trek on stone stairs led us to the frozen lake, surrounded by majestic snow-capped peaks. The sight was priceless, and we spent glorious moments there, capturing photos and videos, offering prayers at the temple, and soaking in the serene atmosphere.
On our way back, we learned that a hut we had admired earlier had caught fire. The sight of its ashes was heartbreaking. Pasang dai explained that some travelers had likely left a fire unattended, causing the blaze. The incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of responsibility while trekking, especially in fragile environments.
We returned to Kathmandu with a mix of good and bad memories. One crucial lesson from this journey is the importance of acclimatization—never ascend to high elevations (above 4,000 meters) from low altitudes in a single day. Spending a day below 3,000 meters can help prevent altitude sickness and ensure a safer, more enjoyable trek. Bhairab Kunda is not just a destination; it’s an experience that teaches resilience, responsibility, and the beauty of nature’s untouched wonders.
Photos: Achitra Thieng
Pranic Healing: Heal your body and your emotions
Ramesh Gautam, in his early thirties, was living a fast-paced life juggling multiple responsibilities. A teacher by profession, he had recently ventured into the restaurant business using his family’s savings, all while raising his young daughter. The mounting stress from his professional and personal life soon became overwhelming, leading him to turn to alcohol as a coping mechanism. He began drinking heavily, returning home late at night, and rushing to school the next morning while still battling hangovers.
“I noticed I was becoming more irritable, struggling to sleep, and missing out on precious time with my daughter. My parents began to lose faith in my ability to manage the business, and my performance at school started to suffer,” Gautam recalled.
It was during this challenging phase that his cousin, a Pranic Healer, suggested he try Pranic Healing to address his struggles. Taking her advice, Gautam began attending sessions three times a week, each lasting about 45 minutes, for several weeks.
His cousin worked on his aura and chakras—without any physical contact or medication—using Pranic Healing techniques. After a few sessions, she introduced Pranic Distance Healing, allowing Gautam to receive healing energy even while at home.
“I started thinking more clearly and became more mindful of how my decisions impacted different aspects of my life. My business began to expand, and I made the decision to quit alcohol. One night, I was at my restaurant with friends until 2 a.m., and for the first time, I was able to say no to alcohol without feeling the urge to drink. That was a turning point for me,” Gautam shared.
Pranic Healing is an ancient science and art that utilizes Prana (life energy) to heal the body and emotions. It addresses a wide range of physical ailments, such as migraines, diabetes, asthma, high blood pressure, arthritis, and even chronic conditions like cancer and heart disease. It also helps with emotional and mental challenges, including stress, addiction, phobias, depression, low self-esteem, ADHD, and autism.
The practice is based on the concept that every individual has an energy body composed of chakras, auras, and meridians. When illness occurs, certain parts of this energy body become imbalanced. A Pranic Healer works to remove diseased energy and replenish the affected areas with fresh Prana, facilitating healing. Notably, Pranic Healing is a no-touch, no-drug system and can even be applied remotely.
Modern Pranic Healing was systematized by Master Choa Kok Sui in 1987. A chemical engineer, businessman, and spiritual teacher, Master Choa authored over 20 books on the subject. Today, Pranic Healing is practiced in more than 120 countries worldwide.
In Nepal, Pranic Healing gained traction in the early 2010s. The Pranic Healing Yoga Nepal Trust now offers healing services, meditation sessions, and spiritual courses. To date, over 3,000 students have learned Pranic Healing in Nepal, with more than 50 becoming certified professionals. The country now boasts over 14 Pranic Healing centers, and practices like Twin Hearts Meditation—a powerful technique developed by Master Choa—have reached over 10,000 people in Nepal.
It’s important to note that Pranic Healing is not a replacement for modern medicine but rather a complementary practice. Pranic Healers do not interfere with medical treatments, and many doctors themselves incorporate Pranic Healing into their work.
For those facing health or mental health challenges, Pranic Healing offers a holistic approach to healing. Additionally, individuals interested in spirituality and self-improvement can explore courses like Achieving Oneness with the Higher Soul and Arhatic Yoga. Beginners can also enroll in a two-day Basic Pranic Healing course, where they can experience healing, learn to sense auras and chakras, and witness the transformative power of this practice firsthand.
Gautam’s story is a testament to the potential of Pranic Healing to bring about profound personal transformation, offering hope and healing to those seeking balance in their lives.
Timeless beauty of Newari jewelry
The Newar community, indigenous to the Kathmandu Valley, is known for their rich culture, artistic heritage, and deep-rooted traditions. Among the many aspects of Newari or Newa culture, jewelry holds a special place. Newari jewelry is more than mere ornamentation; it reflects history, craftsmanship, spirituality, and social identity.
Adorned by Newari women during festivals, ceremonies, and daily life, these intricate pieces of jewelry carry symbolic meanings that connect them to their ancestors and gods. Crafted in gold, silver, and precious stones, each piece tells a story of tradition, skill, and devotion. Beyond jewelry, Newari culture is an amalgamation of ancient customs, unique festivals, traditional attire, and architectural marvels that have stood the test of time.
This article delves into the beauty of Newari jewelry and explores the essence of Newari culture, providing insight into the traditions that define this remarkable community.
Legacy of Newari jewelry
Newari jewelry has a history dating back centuries, influenced by Hindu and Buddhist traditions. These ornaments are often handcrafted by skilled artisans, using age-old techniques passed down through generations. Newari jewelry is diverse, with different pieces worn for separate occasions. Some of the most popular types of jewelry include:
- Kantha
Kantha is a thick gold necklace, often designed with intricate patterns. It is worn by married Newari women, symbolizing prosperity, and social status.
- Tayo
Tayo is one of the most iconic pieces of Newari jewelry. This large, crescent-shaped pendant, often made of gold, features intricate designs, and is associated with wealth and good fortune. It is commonly worn by Newari women during festivals and weddings.
- Makashi
Makashi, or gold headpieces, are worn by Newari brides and young girls during special ceremonies. These ornate head ornaments enhance beauty while also signifying purity and cultural pride.
- Pata
Pata is a type of wide, gold choker necklace often worn during significant occasions. It is crafted with fine detailing, showcasing the craftsmanship of Newari artisans.
- Naugedi
Naugedi consists of multiple gold beads strung together into a necklace. It is a commonly worn ornament by Newari women, symbolizing elegance, and prosperity.
- Har
Har is a long necklace made of gold and beads, often worn with traditional attire. This piece adds to the graceful and royal appearance of Newari women.
- Bulaki
Bulaki is a small gold ornament worn on the nose. It is especially significant for elderly Newari women and carries religious importance.
- Tilhari
Tilhari is a traditional necklace worn by married women. It consists of a long string of red beads with gold cylindrical pendants, representing marital status and longevity.
Symbolism and spiritual significance
Newari jewelry is not just about adornment; each piece has a cultural and spiritual significance. Many ornaments are inspired by Hindu and Buddhist beliefs, incorporating motifs of deities, lotus flowers, and other sacred symbols. For example, Tayo represents good fortune and is believed to bring protection and blessings from the gods. Similarly, gold jewelry is often considered auspicious and plays a vital role in marriage ceremonies and religious rituals.
Artisans behind the craft
The creation of Newari jewelry is a meticulous process conducted by skilled artisans, primarily from the Shakya and Sunar castes. These craftsmen use traditional hand tools and techniques to mold gold and silver into exquisite designs. Many families have been in the jewelry-making profession for generations, preserving the craftsmanship and knowledge of this art.
Despite modern influences, the demand for handmade Newari jewelry remains high, both within Nepal and internationally. Newari jewelers continue to practice their craft, blending tradition with contemporary aesthetics to appeal to a wider audience.
Essence of Newari culture
Newari culture is one of the most vibrant and well-preserved cultures in Nepal. It encompasses unique traditions, cuisine, festivals, language, and architecture, making it a significant part of Nepal’s heritage.
- Language and literature
The Newars have their own language, Nepal Bhasa (Newar language), which has a rich literary history. It has been used in inscriptions, religious texts, and folk tales for centuries. Newari manuscripts, written in scripts such as Ranjana and Prachalit, highlight the intellectual depth of this community.
- Traditional attire
Newari clothing reflects the beauty and grace of their culture. Women traditionally wear a Haku Patasi, a black sari with a red border, accompanied by a shawl. During special occasions, they adorn themselves with elaborate jewelry. Men wear Daura Suruwal along with a traditional Newari cap, known as Topy.
Bridal attire in Newari culture is particularly elaborate, featuring luxurious fabrics, gold jewelry, and intricate headpieces. The combination of attire and ornaments creates a majestic look for Newari brides.
Newari culture is a living testament to Nepal’s rich heritage, blending spirituality, tradition, and artistic excellence. From vibrant festivals and intricate architecture to exquisite jewelry and flavorful cuisine, every aspect of Newari life reflects a deep-rooted connection to history and community. Despite modernization, the Newar people continue to preserve their unique customs, ensuring that their cultural identity remains strong for future generations. As one of the most significant cultural groups in Nepal, the Newars not only contribute to the nation’s historical legacy but also serve as a symbol of resilience, creativity, and devotion.
Not a plant murderer anymore: Learning the basics of plant care
For years after I got married and moved into my own home, I tried to do what my mother has always done: maintain a lush beautiful garden. I didn’t have much space so I bought a lot of pots and planters and took to turning our balcony into a tiny green oasis. I also placed plants strategically around the house, in the living room and the bedroom. I bought expensive plants, considering them to be one-time investments, got cuttings from mom and some friends, and even tried my luck with some seeds.
When it was all done and in place, it looked beautiful. I had a variety of indoor and outdoor plants as well as herbs and chili growing in containers along the kitchen window sill. I thought I was sorted. Till they eventually began to droop and die, one by one. By the end of two years, my initially lush snake plant, that I had bought for an eye-watering amount, had one lone stem standing.
I didn’t give up. I bought more plants and quickly had the situation under control. The pots were looking full and luscious once again. But the same thing would happen. After a while in our apartment, the plants just didn’t look as happy and healthy as they did when I had first gotten them. They started losing their fullness, developing patches on the leaves, and turning yellow.
I did everything I could to save my plants. I searched for information online to figure out what I was doing wrong. I asked my mother and friends for advice. I downloaded an app that I could use to take and upload a photo of my plants and it would give me detailed care instructions for them. At one point, I even tried talking to them and then eventually ignoring them wondering if it was the extra attention that was making them act up. But nothing worked. They would all wither and die and I would have to get new ones again.
I took comfort in the fact that there were many people like me out there. I have a friend who always says she’s in a short-term relationship whenever she gets a new plant. When it dies, she says she’s going through a breakup. A colleague says he and his wife have finally given in and bought some ‘real-looking’ fake plants for their living space. It doesn’t need watering and fertilizing. And they don’t have to worry it might die. All it needs, they say, is a good wipe down once in a while and it looks good. Minimal effort, maximum effect, they say.
I was tempted to buy one myself. After all, in the long run, even the most expensive one would be far cheaper than buying a real Peace Lily every few months. Some of these fake plants that look almost real (in one case, my husband even tried to tear a leaf because he thought it was real) cost upwards of Rs 8,000. I’ve considered buying one that I thought would look great in our living room and it was priced at a whopping Rs 15,000. I think there’s a market for fake plants since there are many plant murderers like me.
But my mother studied Botany and I’m her daughter. I couldn’t buy fake plants and dishonor her like that. That was my illogical reasoning. I couldn’t just give up. And so, when we shifted homes three years ago, I tried again. I pretty much vowed this would be the last time I’d buy plants as a new home had pretty much siphoned our finances. And so, I bought everything again. From the expensive Snake Plant to the hard-to-maintain Chrysanthemums, I went all out. But this time, I also bought the right gardening mix and good quality fertilizers. I repotted the plants instead of just placing them around the house in the containers they came in. Much like I did before, I started googling and learning about the different kinds of plants and their requirements. I was determined to see my plants thrive.
And so far, I’m happy to report that, with the exception of one or two, they are all thriving really well. A well-lit house helps, I’ve realized. Most indoor plants need a lot of natural light. They also don’t like to be overcrowded. Plants that are on their own or with just another one for company seem to thrive better than plants that are clustered together. There’s also really no need to water them every day or even every other day. If possible, open the windows to let in fresh air as plants seem to like that. It’s also a good idea to spray water on their leaves every now and then, apart from the usual watering.
A relative came home during our homewarning and said that he’d like to see what happened to the plants in a few months time. The scorn was evident in his voice. I think I wanted to prove him wrong so badly that this time whenever I’ve noticed a plant behaving weirdly, I’ve almost instantly replanted them or shifted them to a new place. I’ve come to realize that most plants don’t thrive because their lighting requirements aren’t met or because something is off with the soil.
Repotting or moving a withering plant to well lit or a spot that doesn’t get direct light has often done the trick and saved them from dying. Along with that, it’s also quite important to get their watering needs right. Some plants need moist soil while some have to completely dry out between watering sessions. There are good guides on various plants’ light, water, and fertilizer requirements on the internet and following it has worked to my advantage. I also find talking with a local gardener or nursery owner helps. They are able to tell you what is wrong with a plant by looking at them. I’ve often shown them pictures of my plants and the advice they have given me has worked wonders in ensuring they grow really well.
It’s disheartening when your plants wilt and don’t look lush but don’t give up. It’s quite common for them to look a little frail during winter but that doesn’t necessarily mean they won’t look healthy and lush when the season changes and it’s bright and warm. More often than not, people also tend to replace plants without giving them enough time to recover. Gardening requires patience and practice and it can be extremely rewarding to see something you have brought in and taken care of thrive and grow.