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What is your childhood memory of ‘bhogate’(pomelo)? Don’t tell me you also played with bhogate, making it into a football of sorts. There used to be lots of bhogate trees in Kathmandu Valley. Since the production of bhogate was high and demand was low, as the population was less compared to present-day Kathmandu, the best way to utilize it was to play with it. And, some bhogate trees used to produce such bitter fruit that owners would be happy to give it away for play.

Playing with bhogate was no easy feat with bare feet. It started with a bit of pain, but after many kicks, it became an enjoyable daily ritual. Each day brought a new ball for winter play, courtesy of the bhogate trees that produced bitter fruits.

Another childhood memory might involve being told that consuming pomelo increases blood quality and quantity. Turns out, a peeled pomelo weighing about 600 grams is a powerhouse of nutrition. It has 231 calories, five grams of protein, no fat, 59 grams of carbs, six grams of fiber, and a bounty of essential vitamins and minerals. It’s no wonder pomelo was believed to enhance blood health.

Bhogate sadeko, a marinated pomelo dish, is more than just a vibrant heritage of Nepali culture. It’s a tradition, a connection to our roots, and a testament to the enduring spirit of Nepali communities worldwide. Originating from Nepal, bhogate sadeko is a harmonious blend of sweet, tangy, and spicy flavors, capturing the essence of the revered pomelo fruit.

It’s a favorite during winter afternoons when families and friends gather under the warm sun to enjoy this refreshing and flavorful dish. It’s a crowd-pleasing dish, normally consumed in gatherings, especially women’s gatherings or family gatherings on sunny days. It’s a seasonal dish from Nepal.

For the Nepali diaspora, bhogate sadeko holds a special place, evoking memories of sunny days and sharing laughter with neighbors. Beyond its culinary allure, this dish packs a punch of health benefits, from immune-boosting vitamin C to fiber and potassium for digestive wellness.

Pomelo (Citrus maxima) is a large citrus fruit that belongs to the Rutaceae family. Known for its sweet and tangy flavor, it’s the largest citrus fruit, often compared to and sometimes mistaken for grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) due to its similar appearance. Varieties like Chandler, Thong Dee, Tambun, and Kao Nam Phueng each contribute their unique characteristics to the flavor palette, creating a symphony of tastes in bhogate sadeko.

Pomelo is believed to have originated in Southeast Asia, particularly in regions like Malaysia and Indonesia. It’s now widely cultivated in various tropical and subtropical regions, including Nepal, China, Thailand, Vietnam, India, and the Philippines. The fruit has also gained popularity in other parts of the world, including the Americas and certain Mediterranean countries.

 As a Product Development Chef, I’ve taken it upon myself to introduce this cultural delight to diverse menus. The nostalgic taste of bhogate sadeko transcends borders, and soon, it will find its place in a Middle Eastern menu, adding a touch of Nepali flair to the global culinary stage.

When I was the chef patron of a restaurant called Zumbura in London, I tried to link my childhood memory of bhogate to a cocktail drink. That was quite successful. Infusing pomelo juice into our cocktails wasn’t a mere quest for a refreshing drink; it was a homage to the authentic flavors that had shaped my culinary journey. Ingredients inspired by local produce, such as pomelo, became the bridge linking the diverse palette of cuisine with the traditions of my Nepali heritage.

In our fast-paced lives, preserving culinary traditions becomes paramount. Bhogate sadeko is more than a recipe. It’s a story waiting to be told, a piece of Nepal that resonates across generations. Sweet and sour pomelo is mixed with yogurt, sugar, salt, and chilies, and tempered with mustard oil and fenugreek seeds to make this afternoon snack for winter afternoons when a group of families and friends sit together under the warm sun and consume this dish. Other citrus fruits can also be added to bhogate.

The preparation is simple. Peel the pomelo, and marinate it with yogurt, salt, and chili powder, adding green chili for an extra kick. You can also add some oranges as well. Sputter fenugreek seeds until dark in hot mustard oil, add turmeric powder, and temper the marinated pomelo. Mix well and enjoy this delightful, nostalgic dish that connects us to our roots. 

 The author is a UK-based R&D chef

In the monsoon season, the rainfall transforms our land into a vibrant and lush green landscape. After a few weeks of rain, we can harvest an attractive green product—hariyo bhatmas. The color of these green soybeans is brighter and the taste is smoother than any other variety of beans.

Hariyo bhatmas sadeko (soybean salad) is one of the most famous dishes in the local eateries of Kathmandu. It goes well with everything, from chiura (beaten rice) to even regular daal bhat. And it’s one of the best snacks for those who like a drink in the evening.

Hariyo bhatmas is rich in protein, calcium, vitamins, fiber, and other nutrients like vitamin K, vitamin B6, thiamine, vitamin C, iron, manganese, phosphorous, copper, potassium, magnesium, zinc, selenium, and calcium. It’s a good source of antioxidants, which boost metabolism.

Hariyo bhatmas helps boost metabolism, reduces heart problems, protects against cancer, improves digestion, and enhances bone health. It also lowers the risk of diabetes. Making Hariyo bhatmas sadeko is easy. You just have to boil green beans for 10 to 15 minutes on medium flame, ensuring you don’t boil it for too long to preserve the real taste. Add salt to the water while boiling. Meanwhile, prepare other spices by cutting ginger and garlic into thin strips, adding salt and juice of half a lemon, and let it sit for 10 minutes.

 Afterward, add cut green chili and mix well. Remove the cover from soybeans, add it to the ginger-garlic mixture. Adjust salt, chili, and lemon juice according to your taste. Heat oil in a pan, fry fenugreek seeds until black, turn off the flame, add turmeric powder, and pour the oil into the mixture. Garnish with coriander leaves and delicious Sadeko Bhatmas is ready to serve.

Now, what about Edamame? Edamame is essentially green soybeans with great branding. It has global recognition and a written history, unlike our hariyo bhatmas sadeko, which lacks branding, and history, and is served as a simple Nepali snack in local eateries.

Edamame is immature green soybeans, widely used in Asian cuisine and recently gaining popularity in the West as a snack. Edamame is typically sold in pods, but unlike peapods, the pods are not meant to be eaten. Instead, the soybeans are boiled in the pods and then eaten separately. In the US, you can find edamame in the frozen food section, and some stores, especially health food stores, might also sell it in the snack aisles.

Edamame is gaining popularity in the West as a superfood because each serving of edamame contains plenty of fiber as well as omega-3 fatty acids. The American Heart Association (AHA) recommends diets high in both to reduce your risk of heart disease. In addition to being a decent source of soy protein, edamame is rich in healthy fiber, antioxidants, and vitamin K. These plant compounds may reduce the risk of heart disease and improve the blood lipid profile, a measure of fats including cholesterol and triglycerides.

Unlike other beans, edamame is low in carbohydrates, which can make eating them less likely to raise blood sugar levels. Although edamame is the same soybean that makes tofu, it has more taste than the bland bean curd. It is faintly reminiscent of peas and is buttery with a hint of sweetness and nuttiness. The texture is firmer than a pea. It’s soft but with a bite.

Edamame has a rich history in Japanese cuisine, dating back to 1638. We don’t have a written history of green soybeans, but it’s believed they might have traveled through Tibet to Nepal.

Edamame has the potential to transform Nepal’s agriculture and make a mark globally.

Edamame is a nutritional powerhouse, rich in plant-based protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals, making it an ideal addition to a balanced diet. It’s easy to grow in Nepali soil and climate, offering farmers a sustainable and lucrative crop.

Embracing edamame as a cash crop has the potential to transform Nepal’s agricultural story. With its nutritional benefits and global demand, especially in Japanese restaurants, edamame export from Nepal can boost its economy. Imagine this nutrient-rich delight, infused with Nepali flavors—steamed, marinated with local spices like timmur-salt or roasted cumin salt—appearing on menus in Nepali restaurants worldwide.

However, unleashing this potential requires efforts like educating farmers, incentivizing cultivation, and gaining governmental support. Collaboration between farmers, industries, and governmental bodies can create a strong supply chain, showcasing ‘Produce of Nepal’ edamame as a premium product.

 Integrating edamame into Nepali restaurant menus globally can promote Nepali produce, elevate culinary identity, empower local communities, and support economic growth and agricultural sustainability.

By harnessing its nutritional benefits, exploring export opportunities, and integrating it into global cuisines, we can celebrate Nepal’s agricultural heritage and enhance its culinary presence worldwide. It’s time to embrace edamame, not just as a bean but as a symbol of Nepal’s agricultural brilliance and gastronomic innovation.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

When I was a teenager, I visited my relatives in the hilly region of Kaski during the festive season of Tihar. For brunch, I was served a special dish called pakku meat with rice. I was quite surprised and couldn’t help but ask my aunt, “Did someone in the village make the dish for Tihar?” My aunt explained that the pakku meat had been prepared during the Dashain festival and saved for the occasion of Tihar. I felt privileged to be enjoying the delicious flavors of pakku that had been made about 20 days earlier.

In the past, many middle-class families would traditionally sacrifice a goat during Dashain, but they often couldn’t consume all of it within a few days. Meat was a rare and valuable commodity back then, so they came up with a way to cook the goat meat in fat and preserve it. This culinary tradition was born out of necessity, allowing Nepali families to make their meat last and savor its succulent taste for an extended period. The cold climate of the Nepali hills was also ideal for preserving meat, especially when it was cooked in a mixture of fat, mustard oil, and ghee. The generous use of fat, in my opinion, was the main ingredient that helped preserve the meat until winter.

In contrast to the Indian tradition, our celebration of Navaratri, the nine days of worshiping Shakti or the goddess, involves a lot of meat, alcohol, and food. We celebrate it for more than 10 days, and the most authentic food of Dashain is pakku, the slow-cooked meat in fat.

Pakku meat is a beloved dish that graces Nepali dinner tables during this special season. It’s not just a meal; it represents the heart of Nepali culinary heritage and the skill of preserving flavors.

Pakku meat, a slow-cooked goat dish, plays a pivotal role during Dashain. The preparation of this delectable treat is a labor of love, blending time-tested methods with a unique selection of spices. At the heart of pakku meat’s distinctive flavor lies the secret ingredient: pakku masala. This special spice blend is more than just a seasoning; it’s the soul of the dish, composed of a variety of spices like coriander, bay leaves, fenugreek seeds, dry ginger, garlic, cardamom, cumin, cloves, long pepper, and many more. Each spice contributes to the rich and authentic Nepali flavor that defines pakku masu.

To create pakku meat, one must start with the right ingredients, particularly goat leg pieces, preferably from a young goat. The meat is then marinated with mustard oil, a blend of spices, and aromatic ginger and garlic. The slow-cooking process, often executed in a heavy-bottomed pot or a pressure cooker, allows the flavors to blend. No water is added to the pot, and onions or tomatoes are conspicuously absent during the cooking process. This extended cooking time yields tender, flavorful meat, eagerly anticipated by Nepali people during Dashain.

One notable aspect of pakku meat is the quantity in which it is prepared. This generous serving size is perfect for hosting extended family and guests who come together to celebrate Dashain. As the dish is reheated and served, its flavors deepen, creating a taste that evolves. The more you reheat it, the darker, richer, and more tender it becomes.

For many Nepali individuals living far from their homeland during Dashain, preparing pakku meat is a way to reconnect with their roots. It’s a journey back home, a method to honor cherished traditions, and a means of sharing a piece of Nepal with their loved ones, no matter where they are in the world.

Pakku meat, with its rich flavors and cultural significance, exemplifies how food can be a source of celebration, connection, and nostalgia. If you’ve never had the pleasure of savoring goat meat or are interested in exploring the diverse facets of Nepali cuisine, don’t hesitate to give pakku meat a try. It’s not just a dish; it’s a part of Nepali tradition and a flavorful celebration of Dashain. It’s worth noting that every family has its unique way of preparing Pakku, and the following is one particular recipe that I hold dear.

Ingredients

Two kg goat meat

Five gm (two tsp) cumin powder

Three gm (1.5 tsp) chili powder

Four gm (two tsp) turmeric powder

Four gm (1.5 tsp) garam masala

16 gm (one tbsp) garlic paste

12 gm (one tbsp) ginger paste

Four bay leaves

Four cloves

Two gm black peppercorns

Two cinnamon sticks

Four black cardamoms

120 ml (eight tbsp) pure mustard oil

120 ml (eight tbsp) ghee (brown butter)

20 gm salt

Method

Begin by marinating the larger pieces of goat meat with mustard oil, garlic, ginger, salt, garam masala powder, cumin powder, chili powder, turmeric powder, and ghee. Allow the meat to marinate for at least four to five hours

Once the marination is complete, place all the marinated meat in a clay pot, ensuring that the lid is tightly sealed. Some cooks add a layer of flour dough around the top to seal it and ensure an airtight vessel. Let the pot simmer over low heat for another four hours.

This recipe is incredibly straightforward, emphasizing the importance of good-quality meat and the use of high-quality ingredients. However, the true magic lies in the cooking technique employed.

Pakku meat is at its best when cooked over an open-fire stove, though this may prove challenging in a city setting. For urban dwellers, a kasaudi (a traditional wood-burning stove) is your best bet to achieve the perfect result. In the lack of these options, a pressure cooker or even a rice cooker can be used. In the case of the latter, simply place all the ingredients in the rice cooker and switch it on. Keep in mind that you may need to use a bit more oil and ghee for the rice cooker preparation.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef​​​​​​​

Nepali pickles, known locally as ‘achar’ are not just condiments; they are a window into the heart of Nepal’s food culture, a connection to one’s roots, and a testament to the country’s enduring traditions.

One of the most cherished food preservation methods in Nepal is the art of making pickles, known by various names like ‘Purano’, ‘Gadeko’, ‘Galeko’, ‘Khadeko’, or ‘Khalpi Achar’. It is a tradition that has been passed down through generations, representing a time-honored way of preserving seasonal produce for year-round enjoyment. In Nepal, it’s not uncommon to find pickles fermenting in glass jars for three to four years, with the preserved delicacies lasting for two to three years.

Few years ago I had the privilege of tasting a pickle that had matured for over twelve years in the Manakamana area of Gorkha. The depth of flavor and the sense of tradition that infused each bite left an indelible mark on my palate.

For many Nepali living abroad, these pickles serve as more than just a culinary delight. They are a tangible link to their homeland, invoking memories of childhood, family gatherings, and festive celebrations. In a foreign land, a bite of Nepali pickle can transport them back to the familiar sights and sounds of their country, providing solace in the form of spicy, tangy, and sour flavors.

Dr Jyoti Prakash Tamang, a distinguished food microbiologist from Sikkim, provides insights into the traditional preparation of these pickles. According to him, “Khalpi is a non-salted fermented cucumber product, consumed by the Brahmin Nepali in Nepal, Darjeeling hills, and Sikkim. It is the only reported fermented cucumber product in the entire Himalayan region.”

The process, as described in his book “Himalayan Fermented Foods: Microbiology, Nutrition, and Ethnic Values,” involves ripened cucumbers collected from the fields, cut into suitable pieces, and sun-dried for two days. These dried cucumber pieces are then placed in a bamboo vessel known as a ‘dhungroo’ and sealed with dried leaves. Natural fermentation occurs at room temperature for three to five days, with longer fermentation resulting in a more pronounced sour taste. Khalpi is typically prepared during the months of September and October and is enjoyed as a pickle, served alongside steamed rice with mustard oil, salt, and powdered chilies.

While the traditional method still holds its charm, there have been notable changes in the way Nepali pickles are made today. People from various ethnicities in Nepal now prepare pickles from a wide array of vegetables, including cucumbers, radishes, and various types of gourds. The process typically involves cutting these vegetables into small pieces or thin slices and mixing them with an assortment of spices such as mustard seeds, fennel, onion seeds, ajwain, turmeric, fenugreek, chili powder, mustard oil, and salt. The mixture is then tightly packed in a jar and left to ferment for days, weeks, months, or even years, depending on the desired flavor.

During the fermentation process, beneficial bacteria work their magic, breaking down sugars and carbohydrates in the vegetables, resulting in the characteristic tangy and flavorful pickle. This fermentation not only enhances the taste but also extends the shelf life of the vegetables, preventing spoilage.

Purano Achar is more than just a condiment; it is an integral part of the Nepali meal. Each region of Nepal has its unique variations, with different vegetable choices and spice combinations. For instance, in the Madhes region, green mangoes with seeds intact are a popular choice for pickling. These regional variations add depth to the culinary landscape of Nepal, showcasing the country’s diversity in flavors and traditions.

Beyond its culinary aspects, preserving food through pickling holds cultural significance. It enables Nepalis to savor seasonal produce throughout the year and curbs the wastage of surplus crops. This tradition not only preserves the culinary heritage but also promotes sustainable practices, aligning perfectly with the principles of responsible living.

Preserving tradition through Nepali pickles is about more than just food; it’s a way of safeguarding cultural heritage, cherishing memories, and providing a taste of home, no matter where you are in the world. Nepali pickles, or ‘achar’, play a pivotal role in Nepali cuisine and are deeply ingrained in the country’s cultural fabric.

Pickles hold a special place at the dining table, and they are often prepared at home with love and care. Families pass down age-old recipes from generation to generation, creating their unique blends of flavors. These recipes are not just culinary instructions; they are a part of the family’s history, reflecting their regional, social, and cultural background.

Nepali pickles primarily feature vegetables and fruits such as mangoes, cucumbers, radishes, and lemons. These ingredients are marinated in a symphony of spices, oils, and sometimes vinegar or lemon juice. The resulting pickle is a harmonious blend of flavors and textures, a culinary masterpiece that has delighted taste buds for centuries.

Traditional pickling is an eco-friendly way of preserving food without the need for artificial preservatives. It aligns with the principles of sustainable living, reduces food waste, and conserves resources. By continuing the tradition of making Nepali pickles, younger generations can stay connected to their roots, learn valuable culinary skills, and carry forward cultural practices from their elders.

In conclusion, Nepali pickles are much more than just a condiment; they embody the richness of Nepali culture, the love of homemade food, and the joy of sharing with others. As long as people cherish and pass on these culinary traditions, the taste of home will remain alive, transcending borders and generations.

Nepali pickles are a testament to the resilience of tradition in a rapidly changing world. They remind us that even in the face of modernity, the old ways of preserving food and culture can continue to thrive, connecting generations and preserving the flavors of Nepal’s culinary heritage. So, the next time you savor a bite of Nepali pickle, remember that you are not just enjoying a delicious condiment; you are partaking in a cultural legacy that has endured for centuries.

Do you know what connects the art of Dolma making in Azerbaijan, the French Gastronomic meal, Singapore’s vibrant Hawker culture, and the traditional Japanese Washoku? The answer is delicious and culturally rich food. These culinary traditions are not only about food but are also proudly listed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List. This list safeguards a wide range of food and food-related cultures, from Belgian Beer to the tradition of Couscous, Korean Kimchi to Neapolitan Pizza, thanks to the dedicated efforts of individuals and national and international actors.

Now, let’s bring our focus closer to home. A decade or so ago, the vibrant streets of Kathmandu Valley were filled with the aroma of Jho Bhoya, a cherished Newari feast served on Saal tree leaves. People gathered, sitting on traditional straw mats (Sukul), to indulge in this four-course extravaganza. This culinary adventure included beaten rice, meat, spinach, peas, potatoes, cucumbers, methi, pankua, yogurt, rice beer, alcohol, cauliflower, fruits, sweets, curd, and more. The feast was divided into four phases, each offering a unique array of flavors.

The food items are divided into four phases. In the first phase, beaten rice, especially radish pickle, 1-2 pieces of meat, green garlic, and more are served. The second phase features Dyakala (gravy meat), legumes, cauliflower, and potato. Moving on to the third phase, legumes, mushrooms, methi soup, pankua, radish, and chana are served. Finally, in the fourth phase, bhutaan, curd, small peas, radish, carrot, cucumber, fruits, and sweets are served.

So, what happened to Jho Bhoya? Is it expensive to organize? I don’t think so. People are paying a minimum of Rs 2,000 per plate for a regular feast, and it can be organized within that budget. The scarcity of human resources to serve these dishes may be a challenge, but the most pressing concern is the dwindling knowledge. Those who possess the culinary secrets are aging, and few young individuals are eager to inherit this invaluable heritage. It's clear that we must act to preserve it, but the question is how?

To conserve and promote our Intangible Cultural Heritage, the first step is to monetize it. This ensures that those dedicated to protecting our culture and traditional food have the means to live with dignity. A significant boost to conservation and promotion could come from adding Jho Bhoya or the entire Newari food culture to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

The registration of Nepal’s Newari cuisine as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list is indeed possible, but it requires a well-coordinated effort by the Nepali government, local communities, and cultural preservation organizations.

Achieving this recognition demands a thorough documentation of Newari cuisine. This documentation should encompass its history, traditional recipes, cooking techniques, rituals, and social customs related to food preparation and consumption. Every detail should be meticulously recorded.

The active involvement and support of the Newar community are crucial since they are the primary bearers and practitioners of this culinary tradition. Their insights, knowledge, and consent are essential in the process. Collaboration with culinary historians, ethnographers, anthropologists, and other experts is also necessary. These experts can provide a comprehensive understanding of the cultural significance and uniqueness of Newari cuisine.

We must emphasize the cultural significance of Newari cuisine, not just as a source of sustenance but as a symbol of cultural identity, community cohesion, and the preservation of local traditions.

Sustainability is another significant aspect. We should highlight the sustainable practices associated with Newari cuisine, such as the use of locally sourced and seasonal ingredients, which foster a harmonious relationship with the environment.

Newari cuisine deserves a place in the global gastronomic landscape, given that gastronomy encompasses the art and science of enjoying food and drink. It goes beyond mere consumption to include the appreciation of food, understanding its cultural and historical significance, and exploring different tastes, textures, and flavors.

Additionally, raising public awareness about the significance of Newari cuisine and the importance of its preservation, both locally and internationally, is paramount. We must develop a plan for the safeguarding of Newari cuisine, ensuring that traditional practices continue to be passed down through generations.

It’s important to note that the process of registering a cultural element as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage can be complex and time-consuming. Successful nominations require a strong demonstration of community involvement, commitment to preservation, and a deep understanding of the cultural significance of the tradition.

Join this campaign for your community and savor the journey towards Culinary Nirvana while enlightening others about your heritage. This process necessitates support from the Nepali government, Guthi Sansthan, Nepal Tourism Board, cultural organizations, and international bodies that can aid in the nomination and provide financial or technical assistance.

Financial support is essential, especially considering the constraints faced by the Kathmandu Metropolitan Corporation in utilizing its budget. Therefore, we can request KMC to allocate funds for this noble endeavor. Together, we can ensure that the flavors and traditions of Newari cuisine continue to thrive and captivate the world.

In conclusion, with careful structural planning, meticulous documentation, and unwavering community support, Newari cuisine has the potential to be recognized and celebrated on the international stage as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. This recognition will help preserve and promote this unique culinary tradition for future generations and elevate Nepal as a global tourism destination.

As a young chef, I was fascinated by the idea of chaurasi byanjan, which means a grand feast featuring 84 different dishes all served at once. It’s not your typical three- or four-course meal. It’s an incredible array of flavors and textures. ‘Chaurasi’ in Nepali means 84, and ‘byanjan’ refers to various types of food. This intriguing tradition is deeply rooted in Nepali culture and is reserved for special occasions like weddings and rice-feeding ceremonies, which mark a child’s transition to solid foods.

I started looking for information about these 84 dishes in books and online, but I couldn’t find much. Gradually, I went from just being a chef to becoming a research and development chef with a hobby of exploring Nepali cuisine and promoting it internationally. When I had some free time, I searched the internet to learn more about chaurasi byanjan. I was fascinated by it and wanted to learn more.

I found something similar called ‘chhpan bhog’ in the Indian context. It was a completely vegetarian meal that used to be served to Lord Krishna. So, I wondered, did Nepali people add 28 meat dishes to the 56 dishes of chhpan bhog? The problem was I didn’t know much Sanskrit which made it really hard to access Eastern knowledge. There had to be some way for me to find out more about this elaborate feast.

I turned to people who seemed knowledgeable about chaurasi byanjan. The first theory connects it to Maharshi Charak, the father of Ayurveda, and his book Charak Samhita, but detailed information is scarce. Another theory links it to the wedding ceremony of Ram and Sita, hosted by King Janak. Yet the details are elusive. There are many other theories too but the information is either limited or vague.

The most convincing theory suggests that this tradition began during the Malla dynasty and it’s purely an indigenous way of serving a feast. It’s said that this tradition continues at Bikramshil Mahabihar (Bhagwan Bahal) in Thamel, Kathmandu.

After uncovering these facts, I sought out gurus with knowledge of chaurasi byanjan. After months of following these experts, some claimed to be writing books on the subject, promising details upon publication, while others said it was their lifelong research and chose not to share. People claimed to know about it but were hesitant to share the details.

I resumed my research and discovered that chaurasi byanjan is more than just a feast. It’s a celebration of balance and variety. Each dish on the menu holds a special significance, whether it’s the spiced lentils of bara or the fermented leafy greens of gundruk. The culinary journey begins with staples like rice and dal, representing the heart of Nepali cuisine, and extends to intricate desserts like peda and rasgulla, showcasing the country’s sweet tooth.

Chaurasi byanjan doesn’t have a fixed set of varieties. It all depends on preferences, seasonality, locality, region, and the dishes typically associated with celebrations. The choices of a multimillionaire and a middle-class family would differ. Exploring Nepal’s chaurasi byanjan is a sensory journey, offering insights into the rich tapestry of culture, the abundance of nature, and the artistry of cuisine that defines this remarkable culinary tradition. Next time you see a feast laid out, try noticing all the different food and drinks there are on the special spread.

In recent times, a significant shift has been observed in the way Nepali people acquire and prepare fish. Many are now opting to purchase live fish, which they clean at the market before bringing it home to cook. This change in consumer behavior can be attributed to concerns regarding a carcinogenic substance known as formaldehyde solution, or formalin. Indian traders and suppliers have been using formalin to extend the shelf life of fresh or chilled fish, artificially enhancing their sensory attributes.

However, Nepali suppliers have taken a different approach, transporting live fish from regions such as Janakpur, Chitwan, and even as far as Chandrapur to Kathmandu in water tanks. This practice has led to the presence of aquarium tanks in the local fish markets. And this shift in sourcing has made live fish readily available in local markets, where you can now purchase them with ease.

This transformation in the availability of live fish is a relatively recent development. Nepal, a landlocked country surrounded by majestic mountains, boasts numerous rivers but lacks access to the sea. Despite this geographical limitation, fish has always held a special place in Nepali culture. It plays a crucial role in various Nepali rituals, such as Tharu weddings and Newar Mahapuja ceremonies. Fish is an integral part of shagun, a traditional Nepali ritual that blesses individuals through food and drink.

Even though Nepal has lots of rivers and lakes, the availability of live fish has historically been a luxury in the hill regions, including Kathmandu Valley, which is far from the sea. To fulfill cultural rituals, our ancestors turned to dried fish, known as sidra, and combined it with achar, a spicy sauce. While in the Indian context, achar means spicy pickle, in the Nepali context, it can refer to a chutney, spicy sauce, or spicy pickle.

Now, let’s delve into the story of sidra ko achar, the spicy sauce made from dry fish. Dry fish, much like sidra ko achar itself, tends to elicit strong opinions—it’s a dish you either love or love to hate. For those who appreciate it, sidra ko achar stands out for its unique blend of ingredients and distinct aroma.

In my opinion, sidra doesn’t have a bad smell; it’s all about the distinct aroma and cultural essence it brings. You don’t need many ingredients; simply take a piece of sidra and roast it over an open flame to experience the authentic taste of Nepal. You can even transform one kg of tomato chutney into sidra and tomato achar using just one piece of roasted Sidra.

Sidra ko achar isn't just a dish; it’s a culinary tradition passed down through generations. Every Nepali household takes pride in having its version of this delectable creation, reflecting family heritage and regional influences. While the recipe may vary from one kitchen to another, the essence of Sidra Ko Achar remains constant—a celebration of Nepali flavors. It has become a favorite in households across the country, showcasing the art of culinary creativity and the depth of flavor that can be achieved through the harmonious marriage of spices, vegetables, and tradition.

The heart of sidra ko achar lies in its harmonious combination of ingredients. Local sidra varieties, celebrated for their distinct flavors and textures, take center stage. Onions, garlic, green chilies, and tomatoes join the ensemble, each contributing to its unique character. Mustard oil and red dry chilies add depth and an irresistible aroma.

The preparation of sidra ko achar involves a meticulous sequence of steps that gradually build up the dish’s complex flavors. The sidra is gently fried in golden mustard oil until it reaches a tantalizing crispness, creating a flavorful foundation. The sizzle of red dry chilies adds drama to the process as their deepening color signals the imminent arrival of a captivating taste symphony. Chopped garlic and onions join the dance, filling the air with their inviting fragrance. The dish evolves further with the addition of tomatoes, turmeric powder, and cumin powder, weaving a tapestry of flavors that dance on the palate.

As the final notes of this culinary masterpiece approach, fried sidra and timmur powder, derived from Sichuan pepper, are introduced, creating a crescendo of taste that awakens the senses. A squeeze of zesty lemon juice elevates the dish to a new level of vibrancy. Chopped coriander leaves provide a burst of freshness, reminiscent of Nepal’s lush landscapes. The dish is now ready to be savored and shared, embodying the perfect fusion of tradition and innovation.

Sidra ko achar transcends its role as a mere dish; it becomes a journey of taste and togetherness. Each bite encapsulates the essence of Nepali culture, the warmth of family, and the joy of sharing. As the alluring aroma of sidra ko achar permeates Nepali households. It serves as a reminder of the richness embedded in this ancient land—a richness that extends beyond the plate, inviting everyone to savor the beauty of Nepal, one flavorful bite at a time.

In a world where culinary traditions often merge and blend, sidra ko achar remains a steadfast guardian of Nepali heritage. It testifies to the enduring power of tradition, innovation, and the shared human experience of savoring a meal together. So, as you find yourself captivated by the fragrant embrace of sidra ko achar, you not only indulge in a symphony of flavors but also join a timeless celebration of culture, family, and the simple joy of coming together over a shared love for the culinary arts.

The author is a London-based R&D chef  

As a Brahmin from the hills, I was raised with certain dietary restrictions during certain holy days. Being told not to eat ‘impure stuff’ only fueled my curiosity and cravings for those forbidden foods. One such dish that I used to avoid as a Brahmin was Pani Roti.

However, as I delved deeper into the culinary world, I came to realize the significance and hidden treasures of Pani Roti. Many people jokingly referred to it as the ‘Bahun ko pasta’—the Brahmin version of pasta, made with vegetables but without garlic. Yet, as I expanded my knowledge of different cultures and cuisines, I discovered that Pani Roti was closely related to Thenthuk, a Tibetan hand-pulled noodle soup.

Pani Roti is primarily prepared during Ekadasi, the eleventh lunar day of each of the two lunar phases in a Vedic calendar month. On these days, fasting is observed, and food items like rice, dal, cereal grains, onion, and garlic are avoided. Some devotees consume only fruits or fast without consuming anything. In the hills of Nepal, where food scarcity has been a persistent issue, fasting is not mandatory, and Pani Roti is prepared on two significant Ekadashis called ‘Thuli Ekadashi,’ which includes Harishayani Ekadashi and Haribodhini Ekadashi.

The name ‘Pani Roti’ can be translated to ‘bread in water’ in English, but it goes beyond its simple literal meaning. Pani Roti is a traditional Nepali cuisine that is not only a simple dish but also a nutritious and flavorful one. Unlike many festival dishes that require several accompanying dishes, Pani Roti stands as a complete and satisfying meal.

The preparation of Pani Roti involves cooking wheat flour dough balls in a pressure cooker along with curry made from vegetables like leaves (karkalo ko paat), the young stalks (gaaba or gaava), and the taro tubers or corms (pidhaalu) of taro plant or unripe pumpkin, complemented by the addition of greens. This delightful combination of wheat flour balls and vegetable curry provides sustenance for an extended period, making it an ideal choice for Nepali villagers engaged in extensive farming work with limited time for cooking.

In contrast, Thenthuk, originating from Tibetan cuisine, is a versatile and heartwarming soup commonly found in the streets of Kathmandu, especially in Tibetan restaurants and small eateries. Thenthuk, also known as hand-pulled noodle soup or thukpa, is a delightful and nutritious dish popular in Amdo, Tibet, where it is often served as a comforting lunch or dinner option.

The main components of Thenthuk include wheat flour dough, mixed vegetables, and tender Himalayan goat (Chyangra), mutton, or yak meat. The adaptability of Thenthuk allows for modern variations like Vegetable Thenthuk to cater to vegetarians and those seeking a lighter option. By incorporating seasonal and local vegetables, Vegetable Thenthuk remains fresh, vibrant, and brimming with flavors.

The clear vegetable broth in Thenthuk allows the natural tastes of the vegetables to shine through, creating a light and healthy option suitable for any time of day. Whether enjoyed as a nourishing lunch or a comforting dinner, Thenthuk provides the necessary sustenance to keep individuals energized without feeling overly heavy or indulgent.

Both Pani Roti and Thenthuk embody the essence of Nepali and Tibetan comfort cuisine. These dishes carry cultural significance, evoke nostalgia, and offer heartwarming flavors and nutrition. Pani Roti and Thenthuk showcase the beauty of traditional cooking methods, the use of seasonal and local ingredients, and the power of culinary heritage in bringing families and communities together.

In a culinary landscape that often emphasizes novelty and innovation, it’s essential to celebrate and preserve the unique flavors and cultural heritage embedded in dishes like Pani Roti and Thenthuk. These traditional delicacies offer more than just sustenance; they are a reflection of our history, values, and the essence of what it means to share a meal with loved ones.

As we savor the simplicity and depth of flavors found in Pani Roti and Thenthuk, let us celebrate the culinary treasures that connect us to our roots and enrich our lives. As we gather around the table to enjoy these cherished dishes, let us also take a moment to appreciate the elders in our families who pass down these recipes, keeping the flame of tradition alive for future generations to enjoy.

In this rainy season, you can enjoy the warmth and spice of Pani Roti or Thenthuk, comforting your body and soul. For those in (or, from) Dharan, you can even compare your version of veg Thukpa with Pani Roti and Thenthuk and savor the unique delights of each dish.

As we embrace the legacy of Pani Roti and Thenthuk, let us remember that food is not just a means of sustenance, it’s a gateway to our culture, heritage, and memories that bind us together as a community. Let us cherish and celebrate these comfort cuisines that have been an integral part of our lives, connecting us to our past and infusing warmth into our present.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef