Saving sattu sarbat
As someone from the Nepali hills, my knowledge of ‘sattu’ was once limited to its use during the auspicious day of Akshaya Tritiya. On this day, we were served dry sattu with ‘sarbat’. Our sattu was made from barley and sometimes mixed with jaggery, while the sarbat was a refreshing drink made from lemon and sugar. Offering sattu and sarbat to others on Akshaya Tritiya is believed to please Lord Vishnu. But today I want to discuss a different kind of sattu—one made from black chickpeas (chana) and its accompanying sarbat.
First, let’s clarify the difference between sattu and besan. Not all chickpea flour is sattu. Essentially, sattu refers to any grain or legume that has been roasted and ground into a fine powder. For example, when black chickpeas are ground without roasting, the result is besan. However, once roasted and powdered, it becomes sattu. Sattu can also be made from roasted and powdered maize, barley (jau), or a mix of these grains.
According to food writer-researcher turned anthropologist, Shirin Mehrotra, from India, traditionally making chana sattu involves soaking black chickpeas in water, drying them under the sun, and then roasting them using a technique called ‘bhoojna.’ In this method, a cast-iron wok filled with sand is placed on a wood-fired stove. The sand ensures even heat distribution and removes all moisture from the chickpeas while preserving their nutrients. The roasted chickpeas are then milled along with their husks, resulting in a product with an earthy taste and aroma that lasts longer.
Sattu has been a staple food for farmers and the working class in the Madhesh region of Nepal and the bordering Indian states of Bihar and Eastern Uttar Pradesh. This is likely due to its affordability and high nutritional value. Packed with vitamins, minerals, protein, and fiber, sattu is a powerhouse of nutrition, providing the energy needed for a full day’s work. This is why it has earned the status of a superfood.
Consuming sattu on an empty stomach in the morning can do wonders for the body. It aids in proper digestive tract function, with the salt, iron, and fiber content reducing stomach issues and improving bowel movements. According to studies, dietary fiber intake can increase stool frequency and improve bowel movements in people with constipation.
Sattu is also a detoxifying agent, helping to eliminate toxins from the body and intestines. It energizes the body and offers protection from various health disorders. Additionally, sattu helps keep the body cool and hydrated throughout the day, making it an excellent summer drink.
For individuals with diabetes, sattu is an ideal food due to its low glycemic index. Diets with a high glycemic index can lead to higher blood glucose and insulin levels, glucose intolerance, and an increased risk of type 2 diabetes. In contrast, low glycemic index foods like sattu have protective effects on the body.
Rich in fiber, sattu is also beneficial for those suffering from high cholesterol. It helps regulate blood pressure and, when consumed on an empty stomach, can aid in weight loss by reducing bloating, enhancing metabolism, and burning calories effectively. The potassium and magnesium in sattu help improve appetite, while its iron content stimulates the production of red blood cells, ensuring adequate oxygen supply and energy throughout the day.
Despite its numerous benefits, the popularity of sattu sarbat is waning. In the past, this refreshing drink was common, especially in hot and humid regions. But a conversation with a friend from Janakpur revealed a concerning trend. He mentioned that while a 50 ml cup of milk tea costs Rs 20 and is favored by the youth, a 300 ml glass of sattu sarbat costs only Rs 30 but is mainly consumed by middle-aged and older individuals. The lack of young customers is forcing sattu sarbat vendors to close their stalls and shift to other occupations.
In an era dominated by marketing and advertising from multinational companies, traditional drinks like sattu sarbat are being overshadowed and forgotten. To preserve this nutritious tradition, positive discrimination from the government and a concerted push from the people are needed. Are we ready to give sattu sarbat the market it deserves?
Promoting sattu sarbat can start with small steps. Educational campaigns highlighting its health benefits could raise awareness among younger generations. Local governments could support vendors through subsidies or promotional events. Schools and colleges might introduce sattu sarbat in their canteens, encouraging students to try this traditional drink.
Moreover, integrating sattu in modern recipes and cuisines could attract a broader audience. For instance, sattu smoothies or energy bars could appeal to health-conscious consumers. Social media influencers and food bloggers can play a pivotal role in reviving interest in sattu sarbat by sharing innovative recipes and personal testimonials.
By promoting and preserving sattu sarbat, we not only honor our traditions but also provide a nutritious, affordable option that benefits everyone’s health. Let’s take action today to save sattu sarbat and ensure it remains a cherished part of our dietary landscape.
Baral is a UK based R&D chef
The many benefits and dangers of moringa
One of the most recent plants to receive the ‘superfood’ label is moringa, known by various names such as sohijan, saijan, sajiwan, munka, munga, or sitalchini, depending on what you call it. The English name ‘moringa’ originated from the Tamil word ‘murungi’ or the Malayalam word ‘muringa.’ This so-called miracle tree, sajiwan, has been standing for thousands of years in every neighborhood of Tarai and the mid-hills.
Nowadays, moringa leaf powder is being sold in the Nepali market, averaging Rs 180 for 100 grams, promising benefits such as enhancing your sex life, balancing hormones, protecting the liver, helping fight free radicals, reducing inflammation, helping to balance blood sugar, improving digestion, and so on.
During my childhood, I never knew about eating moringa leaves. My mother used to make curry from the moringa fruit. The fruit is typically a three-valved capsule, 10 to 60 cm in length, often referred to as a ‘pod’ and resembling a drumstick, hence the name ‘drumstick tree.’ The leaves, on the other hand, were reserved for the animals.
Legend has it that the warriors of Chandragupta Maurya, the disciple of Chanakya who defeated Alexander the Great, were fed moringa leaf extracts. It was believed that this decoction relieved them from the pain and stress of war, making them known for their stamina and valor. Moringa not only provided them with the necessary strength as warriors, but it was also a stress reliever and pain reliever. It’s also said that Roman historians recorded that these warriors needed less sleep and hardly got sick.
The plant is native to South Asia but also grows in Africa, Asia, and South America. South Asian, Greek, and Egyptian civilizations have been using moringa for thousands of years for various purposes.
Research indicates that moringa leaves are extremely nutritious; they contain larger amounts of several important nutrients than common foods. They contain vitamins like A, B1, B3, C, and minerals such as calcium, chromium, protein, zinc, and many more. Often associated with these nutrients are impressive statistics. For instance, moringa leaves contain twice as much protein and four times more calcium than milk, and four times the vitamin A of carrots. Hence, they can help combat malnutrition, especially in developing countries.
So how do you eat moringa then? Curry made from moringa fruit is quite common in Nepali households. Moringa leaves can be eaten fresh, cooked, or dried and powdered. They can be added to soups, stews, smoothies, or yogurt. Moringa pods can be had cooked or pickled. Moringa seeds can be roasted and eaten like nuts or ground into a powder and used as a coffee substitute. Moringa oil can be used for cooking or applied topically to the skin.
For moringa leaf soup, sauté onions and garlic in ghee or oil. Add moringa leaves, water, and your favorite seasonings. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the leaves are tender.
For moringa stir-fry, stir-fry your favorite vegetables with moringa leaves. They can also be wilted with any other green. For moringa pesto, combine moringa leaves, garlic, nuts, parmesan cheese, and olive oil in a food processor. Serve with pasta or bread. For moringa tea, steep dried moringa leaves in hot water for 10 minutes. Strain and enjoy.
For moringa flower curry, use fresh, young moringa flowers. Gently wash the flowers in cold water to remove any dirt or insects. Soaking the flowers overnight helps remove bitterness and makes them tender. You can skip this step if you are using young flowers. Mash the flowers after boiling to help release their flavor and blend better with the other ingredients.
Add cooked lentils or chickpeas for extra protein and texture. Include a pinch of turmeric and ground black peppercorn, coriander for a different flavor profile. Temper with ghee, which will give a final touch of richness. If you prefer a spicier dish, add chopped ‘akbare’ or ‘dalle khursani’, or red chili flakes along with the green chili. Serve moringa flower ‘sabzi’ hot with roti, paratha, or steamed rice. You can also enjoy it as a side dish with curries or dals.
However, everything must be consumed in moderation. Consuming large amounts of moringa to increase balance hormones or protect the liver might be dangerous for health. Even Ayurvedic practitioners don’t recommend moringa for pregnant or nursing women. Though the leaves provide pregnant mothers with plenty of vitamins and minerals, the bark may cause uterine contractions. If you are taking medications, it’s recommended to consult a doctor or Ayurvedic practitioner before consuming moringa. Ayurveda says moringa’s heating nature can aggravate pitta, and its bitter taste and light, dry qualities could potentially unbalance vata.
Lab studies show that moringa could lead to liver and kidney damage as well as infertility. It can also cause problems with certain diabetes medication. It can also lower blood pressure and slow heart rate because of the alkaloids in the plant. There might be uterine contractions from moringa bark, and cell mutations caused by a chemical isolated from roasted moringa seeds. It can cause interference with fertility and upset stomach, gas, or diarrhea due to its laxative properties. So, as with anything and everything else, exercise caution and moderation when taking mornings.
The author is a UK based R&D chef
The bounty of ‘basant ritu’
Living in the land of four seasons, I miss ‘basant ritu’, one of the six seasons in Nepal and a time of new growth and renewal, transitioning from the cold winter to warmer temperatures and longer days. During basant ritu, Nepal’s natural beauty is on full display, with lush greenery and colorful blossoms from the lowland of Tarai to the highland mountains. The English word ‘spring’ simply does not capture all the essence of basant ritu.
The lush greenery and colorful blossoms provide us with many vegetables, and one of them is ‘koiralo ko phool’ (Mountain Ebony—Bauhinia variegata). While having the tangy and spicy ‘achaar’ (pickle), I used to feel that nature has blessed us with this bountiful and tasty flower. After exploring the culinary world as a chef, I realized that we have actually underutilized koiralo.
According to researchers, the origin of koiralo had first been reported in the East Indies area. It grows at 1300 m altitude but is also found in deciduous forests and occurs up to 900 m altitude in dry mixed forests. Koiralo trees are mostly found in tropical and subtropical countries. It’s native to many countries including Nepal, India, China, Pakistan, Burma, North Thailand, North Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. It’s quite common in the Indian states of Tamil Nadu to as high as Jammu and Kashmir.
It’s called ‘raktakanchan’ or ‘phalgu; in the Sanskrit language. In many languages, the name of koiralo is derived from Sanskrit’s raktakanchan, including ‘devakanchanamu’ (Telugu), ‘kanchanal’ (Punjabi), ‘kachan’ (Odia), and ‘kachnar’ (Hindi). In Pahadi Hindi, it’s ‘koliar’ or ‘koiral’. In English, it has different names, including Mountain Ebony, Orchid tree, Camel’s foot, Napoleon’s hat, Paper mulberry, and Poor man’s orchid.
We, Nepalis, mostly use buds and flowers, whereas in India leaves and seeds are used. The leaves of the koiralo plant are used in the preparation of curry, in the form of vegetables, consumed as a side dish along with rice, and used as flavorings in meat and fish. Apart from making pickles, the flower is used in the preparation of curry, raita, flour; cooked as a vegetable; flavoring of meat and fish; and filler in pakoras.
The seeds are rich in several amino acids and are used as pulses in several regions of northeastern and central India. The buds are used for making pickles, curry, flour; flavoring agents in many products; used for making vegetables; and young buds of the flower are used for making various tasty broths. It’s said that the roots, stems, leaves, blossoms, and seeds of the kanchanara are all filled with beneficial nutrients and medicinal substances that offer incredible benefits for general health.
In Nepal, two koiralo items are popular. One is a flavorful vegetable—boiled koiralo ko phool possesses a unique taste and texture, often described as slightly bitter with a subtle sweetness. It can be stir-fried, sautéed, or incorporated into curries for a delightful twist.
A tangy pickle is another popular way to enjoy koiralo ko phool in Nepal. Pickling preserves the flowers and adds a burst of flavor to meals. Here, I will run you through how to make it. The recipe is from my late mom. You can tweak the recipe to your liking to create your own version of the pickle.
Ingredients
400 gm koiralo ko phool
4 medium-sized potatoes
1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped
2 spring garlic chopped
Fresh coriander leaves, chopped
2 gm turmeric powder
2 gm ground cumin
2 gm red chili powder
17 gm white sesame seeds, roasted and ground
1 gm Sichuan pepper Timur, ground
3 gm fenugreek seeds for tempering
2-3 dried red chilies, broken into pieces
2-3 green chilies, chopped
30 ml raw mustard oil
30 ml vegetable oil
1 lime or lemon, juiced
10 gm salt
Instructions
First, boil the koiralo ko phool. In a pot of boiling water, blanch until slightly softened but retaining some texture. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.
Next, boil the potatoes: In a separate pot, boil the potatoes until tender. Peel and cube them, adding them to the bowl with the koiralo ko phool.
Pour all the powdered spices on top of the potato and koiralo mix.
Put vegetable oil in a pan over medium heat. Once hot, add the fenugreek seeds and let them sputter for a few seconds. Add dry chili, fry until black, and pour on top of the spice mix. Cover for a minute.
Add chopped onion, green chilies, and dried red chilies to the mixture with the rest of the raw mustard oil.
Mix with the rest of the raw mustard oil.
The author is a UK based R&D chef
The goodness of lapsi
The discovery of ‘lapsi’, the Nepali hog plum, in a New York superstore left me pleasantly surprised. As I held one in my hand and inhaled its sweet aroma, a rush of memories from my childhood and youth flooded my mind. Clutching onto the lapsi felt like reuniting with a dear old friend, bringing tears of pride to my eyes.
Perhaps they were tears of nostalgia, flowing from the depths of my heart. In that special moment, I felt an unmistakable bond with lapsi, (Choerospondias axillaris), as if it were meant to be mine. With a sense of pride, I strolled through the streets of New York, humming along to Kumar Basnet’s melody, ‘Lapsi ko gedo chusera, jyamir nibuwa sadhera, patpat jibro patkaudai.’
Scientists say that lapsi is indigenous to the hills of Nepal and can also be found in the hills of India (Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, and Assam), Bhutan, Thailand, Vietnam, and China. Known as Lepchipoma in Assamese, Amrda in Bengali, and Nansuanzao in Mandarin, which translates to ‘southern sour date,’ lapsi carries a rich cultural heritage
Lapsi originates from a sizable tree reaching a height of approximately 25 meters, bearing small, yellow, fleshy fruits abundant in calcium, protein, and sucrose. The tree is dioecious, hosting both male and female species, posing a challenge for wild fruit harvesting. However, through grafting techniques, the trees can be controlled for smaller sizes and enhanced fruit yield.
During the onset of spring, the lapsi tree adorns itself with delicate, light-greenish blossoms, soon accompanied by tiny oval fruits measuring around two to three centimeters in diameter. Upon ripening, these fruits transition to a vibrant yellow or red hue, boasting a distinctive sour, tart flavor. Laden with essential nutrients such as vitamin C, vitamin A, and dietary fiber, lapsi offers numerous health benefits. It’s celebrated for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
While ripe lapsi fruits are intensely sour due to their high vitamin C content, few enjoy their pleasant tartness, either fresh or as ingredients for sweet and salty dried fruit nuggets. Although separating the pulp from the seeds can prove to be challenging, cooking facilitates this process. Encased within a hard rubbery skin, the fruits harbor a pale-yellow flesh firmly attached to a large brown seed.
Despite its nutritional prowess, lapsi’s utilization has predominantly remained localized, as noted by many food scientists. Nevertheless, lapsi’s economic significance is on the rise, with its fruit serving multiple purposes. The pulp is transformed into pickles, candies, and spicy delicacies, while the peel can be powdered, and the seeds find diverse applications, from ointments to fire starters. Ripe lapsi fruits present opportunities for both local consumption and international export.
Harvesting occurs as the fruits turn yellow, typically between December and September, allowing farmers to cater to market demands or process them into tantalizing pickles and candies. Furthermore, the dried skin finds utility as fruit leather (paun) or a souring agent for cooking.
Among Nepal’s culinary delights, lapsi ko achar stands out as a favorite pickle. This rich brown, gooey concoction boasts a tantalizing blend of sweetness, spiciness, and tanginess. Although each family has its unique recipe, the process typically involves boiling the lapsi fruit until tender, preserving both pulp and seed integrity.
Subsequently, the peeled fruit undergoes cooking with oil and an array of spices, including sugar, fenugreek seeds, dried chilies, turmeric, cinnamon, ground cardamom, fennel seeds, and chopped dried fruit. Once cooled, the pickle is packed in jars and it can maintain its flavor for up to a year at room temperature.
Beyond its culinary applications, lapsi boasts diverse qualities. Rich in vitamin C, the fruit is integral to various traditional medical practices. Moreover, its hard oval seeds serve as fire starters in rural kitchens or as playthings for children.
In recent years, lapsi has gained popularity as a commercial commodity, gracing the shelves of retail and department stores nationwide. With traditional methods gradually giving way to mass production, lapsi delicacies are now available in convenient mason jars, masquerading as homemade pickles.
In Nepali cuisine, lapsi serves as a quintessential souring agent, enhancing a myriad of dishes, from classic curries to momo chutney and soups. Its versatility and unique tang contribute significantly to Nepali culinary heritage.
Lapsi’s applications extend beyond its delectable pulp, encompassing the peel, seeds, and even natural food preservation techniques through sun-drying. Much like sumac and mango powder in other cultures, lapsi imparts a tangy essence to Nepali cuisine, bridging culinary traditions across borders.
For those traversing markets far from the hills of Nepal, encountering lapsi evokes cherished recollections of childhood games and familial feasts, symbolizing a tapestry woven from the threads of home, tradition, and culinary innovation.
The author is a UK based R&D chef
The truth about turmeric
Have you heard about turmeric latte? If not, it’s a milk drink with turmeric powder, ground cinnamon, honey, or maple syrup that reduces inflammation, aids digestion, and lowers cholesterol levels. Essentially, it’s a slightly tweaked version of ‘besar dudh’, providing similar benefits.
Another popular product these days is Carecumin, a liquid turmeric supplement with fruit flavor. It claims to lead to significant reductions in aches and pains, boost immunity, and improve gut health.
These are modern marketing gimmicks to sell the knowledge of our forefathers on turmeric.
Now, let’s embark on a journey to explore the fascinating world of turmeric, tracing its roots back to ancient times and following its path to kitchens around the globe.
Turmeric’s tale begins in South Asia, particularly in Nepal and India. For thousands of years, turmeric wasn’t just a flavor enhancer, it was a revered medicinal herb. People used its vibrant yellow powder to soothe aches and pains, fight infections, and add a touch of sunshine to their dishes.
But how did this golden goodness travel the world? It all comes down to the ancient spice routes. Imagine bustling marketplaces filled with exotic treasures. Traders carried turmeric along these routes, introducing it to new cultures and palates. From Arabia to China, Africa to Europe, turmeric’s unique flavor and medicinal properties spread like wildfire.
You might wonder why turmeric isn’t a star player in Chinese cuisine. While some Chinese dishes do incorporate turmeric, other spices like ginger and Sichuan peppercorns tend to dominate. This difference reflects the diverse flavor profiles that have developed in different regions around the world. Just like how some countries love the heat of chili peppers, others might prefer the earthy tones of turmeric.
Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: Why is Nepali turmeric so special? Food enthusiasts swear by its quality. Grown in the fertile foothills of the Himalayas, Nepali turmeric boasts an intense aroma, earthy flavor, and higher content of curcumin. Curcumin is the golden hero within turmeric, packed with potential health benefits.
This exceptional quality comes at a premium. Nepali farmers use sustainable methods, nurturing their crops without harsh chemicals. This translates into a higher price for exporters, but it also means a more rewarding experience for those seeking the finest turmeric on the market.
So, what makes Nepali turmeric so expensive?
First is the high altitude at which it’s cultivated. The crisp mountain air and well-drained Himalayan soil create ideal growing conditions for turmeric, contributing to its intense aroma and flavor. Then there’s the case of sustainable practices. Nepali farmers often rely on traditional methods, avoiding chemical fertilizers and pesticides. This eco-friendly approach ensures a purer product but requires more labor, impacting the cost.
As we delve into the world of turmeric, let’s not forget its intriguing cousin, white turmeric, also known as Curcuma aromatica or mango ginger. Primarily grown in the monsoon regions of Nepal’s Himalayas, white turmeric offers a unique twist on the golden spice.
While both yellow and white turmeric share curcumin as a key component, white turmeric boasts a higher concentration of other beneficial compounds, including vitamin A, protein, fatty acids, and minerals. This unique profile translates to potential health benefits similar to yellow turmeric, with a focus on skincare and throat infections.
Traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine, white turmeric is believed to help brighten and lighten the skin. Its anti-inflammatory and antibiotic properties might aid in easing throat infections and congestion.
Unlike its yellow counterpart, white turmeric has a milder, more citrusy aroma and flavor, making it versatile for various culinary uses. It can be consumed raw, dried and powdered, or even enjoyed in tea form.
While research on white turmeric is ongoing, its potential health benefits and unique flavor profile make it an exciting addition to the turmeric family.
Interestingly, the limited availability of white turmeric due to its specific growing conditions also contributes to its value. This, along with its potential health benefits, positions white turmeric as a niche but promising player in the world of spices.
Let’s talk about the promising potential of turmeric in managing inflammation, a key player in various conditions. Studies suggest turmeric may help alleviate symptoms of arthritis, and inflammatory bowel disease, and even ease muscle soreness after exercise.
Furthermore, early research indicates turmeric’s potential role in boosting the immune system, potentially aiding in defense against common colds and flu. Additionally, some studies explore its possible involvement in weight management and even cancer prevention.
Unlike some other turmeric-growing regions, Nepal has a smaller production capacity, leading to higher prices due to limited supply and high demand.
Beyond these factors, the future of Nepali turmeric looks bright. As people become more aware of ingredient quality and origin, the demand for authentic Nepali turmeric is likely to rise. This can empower Nepali farmers and contribute to preserving their valuable agricultural heritage.
Turmeric’s journey is a testament to the power of taste and tradition. From its South Asian roots to its global presence, this golden spice continues to add vibrancy and potential health benefits to dishes around the world. So, the next time you savor a curry or sprinkle turmeric on your veggies, remember the long and fascinating journey this wonder spice has taken.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Get to know the super cool bel
Bel fruit, scientifically known as Aegle marmelos, offers a multitude of health benefits. Studies suggest that bel possesses antimicrobial properties, potentially aiding in the fight against certain bacteria and fungi. Its anti-inflammatory effects have also been noted, providing potential relief from bodily inflammation.
Moreover, bel is believed to harbor hepatoprotective properties, which could contribute to liver health, along with anti-diarrheal effects to alleviate digestive discomfort. Its anti-mutagenic properties may help prevent DNA damage.
When you delve into the study of bel, you can uncover many more claims about its health benefits. But did you know that bel patra once cooled down Lord Shiva? If it could cool down the God of Gods, then the pulp of the bel fruit can cool us down during summer. How? Let’s begin with the story of Mahadev or Shiva during the time of the churning of the ocean.
But first, let’s address the false story of bel bibaha—the misinformation about Newar girls marrying the bel fruit. The ceremony is called Ihi, and the girls are married to Suvarna Kumar, which symbolizes Lord Vishnu. It probably started to save Newar women from ‘Sati Pratha,’ where widows were forced to sacrifice themselves in the burning fire. During Ihi, bel fruit is given as a witness, as bel fruit (wood apple) has a peculiar quality of not rotting and remaining fresh forever.
Due to the release of poison during the churning of the ocean, the entire world became unable to bear its heat. Even the Sura and Asura (gods and demons) were troubled by the heat. Then everyone worshiped Lord Shiva and asked him for his help in getting rid of the heat created by the poison.
Lord Shiva drank the poison to free everyone from it. The heat of the poison was so intense that its effect did not diminish, and Mahadev’s throat turned blue. Then the Sura and Asura offered bel patra and water to Mahadev. Due to the effect of bel patra, the temperature of the poison started decreasing. Lord Shiva’s fever subsided after the offering of bel patra, and he became happy and blessed everyone, saying that from now on he would fulfill every wish of those who offer bel patra to him. Since then, the tradition of offering bel patra on Lord Shiva or one of his forms—the Shiva linga—has been ongoing.
According to another story, the leaves are dearest to Lord Shiva because the Purana mentions that once Goddess Parvati’s sweat droplets fell on the Mandrachal Mountain. It led to the growth of the bel plant. So, the Goddess is considered to reside in the bel tree in all her forms.
Bel is known as Bengal quince, stone apple, curd fruit, elephant apple, Adhararutha (Sanskrit), Iyalbudi (Tamil), Sriphalamu (Telugu), Billi (Gujarati), and Bel in Nepali, Hindi, and Bengali.
Bel possesses many medicinal values and is therefore used as an ingredient in Ayurvedic herbal medical preparations. The fruits, bark, leaves, seeds, and roots of bel contain bioactive compounds such as coumarin, xanthotoxol, imperatorin, aegeline, and marmeline.
Bel sharbat is traditionally made during summer. It’s said that if you drink bel sharbat in the morning, it will protect you from outside heat throughout the day. The plant is highly edible, and the fruit is eaten raw or made into marmalades, jams, jellies, and drinks.
In Indonesia, the fruit is opened and dressed with palm sugar for eating at breakfast. Young leaves and shoots are cooked as a vegetable in Thailand or used as a condiment in Indonesia. An infusion of the flowers is used to make a refreshing beverage. The fruit is also processed to make candied fruit and fruit toffees.
In Nepal and India, bel sharbat is quite popular during summer. There are many ways of making it. The seeded pulp is beaten also with milk and sugar to make sharbat. In the Indian state of Odisha, bel fruit pulp is mixed with fresh cheese, milk, water, sugar, crushed black pepper, and ice, and it becomes the great drink called bela pana.
During their New Year’s Day, Maha Bishuba Sankranti (on Baishakh 1 of the Nepali New Year’s day), Odia people prepare special bela pana with ripe bel, milk, black pepper, cheena (cheese curd), tiny pieces of peeled banana and honey or jaggery, yogurt, cardamom, ground cashews, and freshly grated coconut.
One popular method of making bel sharbat is to wash wood apples, cut them, and take out their pulp. Mix it with double the volume of water and mash it. Run this mashed pulp through a strainer and extract the juice by pressing it with the help of a spoon.
Add sugar to the juice. When it’s mixed in the juice properly, pour cold water or put some ice cubes in it. You can mix salt and cumin (jeera) powder as per your requirement. You can make four to five glasses of squash from one kg of wood apples.
Efforts to conserve the Bel tree are crucial as over-exploitation and habitat degradation have led to its classification as ‘near threatened’ on the IUCN Red List. To safeguard this vital aspect of culture and tradition, initiatives to plant and conserve bel trees are necessary.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
The biryani invasion
Biryani dominates online orders in Kathmandu, followed by momo, burgers, pizza, fried chicken, rolls, samosas, naan, chowmein, and noodles.
A few months ago, I was surprised to read news about the popularity of biryani in Kathmandu. Initially, I thought its influence might be shaping Nepali cuisine, but then I realized that food transcends geographical boundaries. I became confident that a unique variation of the biryani—Nepali biryani—would gradually emerge.
In my role as the research and development chef for a prominent airline and event company, I delved into the intricate world of biryani, uncovering its fascinating history and evolution. Biryani, a culinary gem and global sensation, has its origins shrouded in mystery, with theories pointing to its introduction by the Mughals from Persia or its creation in South India as the ‘Oon Soru’ or ‘one-pot meal.’
The Mughals, renowned for their culinary expertise, left an indelible mark on biryani by introducing Persian ingredients, cooking techniques, and the iconic ‘dum’ cooking method, similar to how we cooked ‘pakku’. In this technique, rice and meat are sealed in a pot over a low flame. Saffron and yogurt played a pivotal role in shaping the biryani we savor today.
Biryani’s historical journey through ancient India is evident in references to similar rice dishes like ‘yavasa’ mentioned in the Arthashastra, an ancient Indian book by Chanakya. The Mughals’ influence, particularly their love for saffron, yogurt, and the dum technique, significantly contributed to the rich and aromatic flavors of biryani.
Regional variations of biryani across India add to its charm, from the fragrant and sweet South Indian biryani to the globally renowned Hyderabadi biryani. In my exploration, I found that biryani has become not only a beloved dish but also a top choice for home delivery, ranking as the number one most-ordered dish on various online platforms in India. And the same thing is happening here in Nepal.
When I’m stuck or short of a dish during my food presentations for the airline, and if I have to prepare a staff meal, biryani is my problem solver. It’s a last-minute fix that is so versatile, accommodating lamb, chicken, fish, seafood, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, Jain Hindu, or Muslim preferences. It serves as a main dish fulfilling everyone’s desires.
Has anyone cooked biryani? There is a precise technique and process to follow, creating layers of mostly meat and rice with fried onion, mint, coriander, rose water, kewra water, yogurt, clarified butter (ghee), saffron, and a carefully selected blend of whole garam masala, finished with garam masala powder – the key to biryani, along with long-grain aged basmati rice.
In essence, biryani is a rice dish that originated in India but has spread worldwide. It’s a fragrant rice dish enjoyed with various meats, vegetables, and spices. Here, we will explore some famous biryani dishes from different countries.
In Saudi Arabia, it’s called Mandi; in Bahrain, Machboos or Machbosh; in Qatar, Mashkool. An epic Ruz Sayadeya, or Egyptian seafood rice, starts with a base of onions caramelized to perfection. In a hot pan, add a drizzle of oil and then add grated onions, spices, salt, and pepper, stirring over low heat until the onions are caramelized and have a deep amber color.
Is paella, the national dish of Spain, related to Spain? Although both are very popular rice dishes, paella is a dish from Spain that originated after the Arabians invaded and ruled the Iberian Peninsula. Paella is usually made with bomba rice, which is highly water-absorbent, giving the dish a mushy texture. Apart from meat, lots of seafood like oysters, crab, prawns, etc., are used in this dish. It’s conventionally cooked in a paella pan, a flat-bottomed, broad dish with handles on both sides. Traditionally, it was cooked on weekends by men who used to rest on weekends.
Did pulao become paella? With Arabs bringing rice to Spain, it’s likely they also brought numerous rice dishes. Imported dishes get ‘translated’ by local ingredients and culture. I’m confident that Arab predecessors didn’t include pork sausage in their rice dishes. Given some Muslims’ aversion to shellfish and other non-fish sea creatures, black paella may be indigenous to Spain.
But dishes like Arroz con Pollo? They’re likely just minor variations on the theme of pulao, pilow, pilaf, and biryani.
Biryani’s history reflects dynamic evolution, adapting to changing tastes and preferences. Modern variations include different meats, the incorporation of vegetables, and the creation of fusion biryanis. Chefs and home cooks have showcased their creativity with innovations such as biryani bowls, wraps, and healthier alternatives like quinoa biryani.
The journey of biryani from ancient India to its current global popularity is a testament to its enduring charm and the adaptability of this timeless culinary delight. As a chef, I’m excited by the continued innovation and creativity surrounding biryani.
Due to its growing popularity, biryani can even be found in unique variations in countries like Sri Lanka, Burma, Brunei, and even Thailand. Biryani spread like wildfire through India and eventually found its way up to Nepal.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Documenting the knowledge of marcha
In many Nepali communities, ‘jaad’ (beer) holds deep associations with God and nature worship. It features prominently in various rituals, from birth to death, and is even considered a purifier of spirit and body. You could say jaad holds a sacred status within many Nepali communities.
Nepali alcoholic beverages primarily fall into two categories: fermented (commonly called jaaḍ) and fermented and distilled (known as raksi). Raksi, scientifically classified as ethyl alcohol, is derived from jaad, earning it the title “mother of all raksi.” But what gives life to jaad? Grains like corn, millet, wheat, barley, and rice, or perhaps fruits, or the special yeast called ‘marcha’?
The jaad-making process begins with the meticulous cleaning of the chosen grains. These are then boiled in a metal pot (preferably copper) until cooked through and imbued with a delightful flavor. This cooking breaks down the starch in the grains, preparing them for the next crucial step which is fermentation.
Once the cooked grains cool to room temperature, the unique marcha (yeast) is introduced. The mixture is thoroughly stirred and sealed in a container for fermentation, which can last anywhere from two weeks to even longer.
During fermentation, the marcha devours the natural sugars present in the grains, transforming them into alcohol. This is precisely why marcha plays such a vital role in crafting this alcoholic beverage. To accelerate this process and ensure the yeast thrives, the container is kept in a warm environment, providing the ideal temperature for the chemical reaction.
Fruits like apples, bananas, peaches, wild berries, and apricots can also be substituted for grains. However, when using fruits, the cooking process is skipped. Instead, the fruits are mixed directly with marcha to initiate fermentation.
Fermentation is a fascinating process where microscopic organisms like yeast or marcha (sometimes even bacteria) act like miniature chefs, using the sugars in ingredients to bake a unique treat: alcohol, the ‘fizz’ we enjoy in the drink. While it may seem simple, this process demands days of dedicated effort, traditionally carried out by the skilled hands of Nepali women.
Marcha, known as ‘okhati’ in the local language, translates to ‘medicine.’ The quality of jaad directly depends on the quality of this yeast cake. Some even use charcoal to enhance the jaad’s flavor. The scientific rationale behind this lies in charcoal’s ability to absorb unwanted odors and colors, similar to how good wines and whiskeys are aged in charred oak barrels.
Many have documented the okhati (marcha) making process, traditionally passed down from mothers to daughters. The sheer variety of plants and herbs used is extensive. Food scientists and students of the Himalayan region often cite the research article ‘Plants used in murcha preparation in Eastern Nepal’ by J. B. KC, D. K. Subba, and B. K. Rai (published in 2001) for the raw materials involved. This paper lists 38 diverse species, ranging from Abhijalo (Drymaria cordata), Adhuwa (Zingiber officinale), Anaras (Ananas comosus), shoots of Ghodtapre (Centella asiatica L), Wild Leaf (Kurilo Asparagus racemosus) to many types of Unyu (Pteridium revolutum). The paper focuses solely on the eastern region, highlighting the vastness of marcha knowledge waiting to be explored across Nepal.
Nepali women begin by collecting herbs from the jungle, followed by a meticulous cleaning and drying process. Ground rice or millet is then mixed with these herbs, sometimes incorporating a touch of old Marcha (Joran) for added depth. Round-shaped cakes are formed and placed in dry locations, often on rice hay or phiraunay leaves, before being stored in a warm environment. In some villages, these cakes are covered with rice hay or cloth to simulate a ‘fever’ of 38-40°C, providing the ideal warm temperature. After seven to eight days, the marcha is ready for use.
This generational knowledge of home brewing, including marcha making, has thrived even without formal scientific understanding. While the general masses who practice it may not grasp the intricacies of fermentation, their cultural heritage keeps this tradition alive.
A recent news story mentioned Minister for Industry, Commerce, and Supplies Ramesh Rijal’s plan to promote the sale of domestic liquor through product branding. He aims to support small and domestic industries in this endeavor, considering Nepal’s annual imports of alcoholic beverages reach nearly two billion Nepali rupees.
However, before commercialization, it’s crucial to safeguard the knowledge behind these traditions. We must document the scientific understanding of the process, and its raw materials, and develop standardized production procedures and quality control systems. We need to develop a scientific production process and a quality management system. I believe we are a bit lagging on issues related to hygiene, so we should also focus on hygienic design, packaging, and distribution systems.
The government should determine production standards and quality for domestic alcohol, and also make arrangements for promoting sales in a way that benefits actual farmers. This will ensure the cultural knowledge of brewing and marcha making is preserved as well as help the industry flourish.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef