Exploring Nepal’s rich brewing traditions

Picture the astonishment on a traveler’s face as he witnesses a waiter at a traditional Kathmandu restaurant handling a glass of flaming raksi. Even a tentative sip of this potent, age-old distilled alcoholic concoction can prompt any newcomer to exclaim, ‘Incredible, that’s remarkably robust!’

These ‘traditional’ eateries also serve a concoction known as aila. Crafted by the Newar community, aila appears to possess even more potency than paa (of Gurungs), aairak (of Tamanags), hengma (of Bantawas), sijongwaa aara (of Limbus), and raankau madda (of Magars).

Speaking of traditional raksi reminds me of the occasion when Nepali raksi secured the 41st spot in CNN World’s prestigious compilation of the 50 most delectable beverages. Tim Cheung, a CNN travel correspondent, eloquently described raksi as an alcoholic elixir crafted from millet or rice, characterized by its potent aroma and a scorching sensation upon consumption, which mellows into an unexpectedly smooth and velvety experience. This homemade elixir becomes a cherished indulgence during festivities, with some regarding the drink itself as the cause for celebration.

Every connoisseur of spirits visiting Nepal invariably develops an affinity for our indigenous alcoholic creations. Yet, it appears that we have yet to truly honor our raksi and jaad. The state’s imposition of prohibition, as stipulated by the madira (alcohol) Act of 2031, demands individuals to obtain a state license for home-brewing—a financial burden out of reach for many communities.

A Supreme Court verdict permits the annual production of up to 30 liters for family consumption. Regions like Gandaki and Lumbini Provinces have taken the initiative to legally brand local raksi. Bhirkot Municipality in Syangja has even escalated matters by embarking on the production and branding of raksi. While politicians vocalize the need for branding, no concerted endeavor to reform federal law has materialized; thus, these initiatives remain ineffectual.

Nevertheless, some politicians and entrepreneurs are striving to establish Nepali raksi as a recognized brand. The challenge lies in the dearth of scientific documentation on this traditional spirit. Some foreign enterprises have already introduced and marketed beverages in Nepal, dubiously labeled as local Nepali raksi or jaad.

Gandaki University has embarked on a journey to brand Millet raksi. A comprehensive evaluation of samples from five districts within the Gandaki province aims to ascertain their quality. Notably, there exists limited research on this subject, one of which is led by Narbada Thapa. Her team’s study reveals that the average ethanol concentration in homemade alcoholic beverages hovers around 14.0 percent (ranging from three to 40 percent) for distilled varieties and 5.2 percent (ranging from one to 18.9 percent) for non-distilled alternatives.

 The research underscores that the median ethanol concentration in homemade alcoholic beverages in Nepal surpasses the potency of factory-produced beer. The strength of these libations varies based on the type, ingredients used, production location, and regional distinctions.

Nepali raksi

In the rugged expanse and verdant hills of Nepal, the art of crafting raksi represents an exquisite blend of tradition and technique. This unique beverage, akin to rice wines across Asia, comes from grains like millet, rice, or wheat. The process commences with the fermentation of these grains, an intricate choreography of nature bestowing life upon a new libation. As time progresses, the drink matures, flavors evolving and transforming.

Tongba

In the lofty Himalayan mountains, where the cold is biting and warmth is sought, tongba becomes a cherished companion. Forged from fermented millet, this unique drink emerges from the collaboration of earth, fire, and time. Millet undergoes metamorphosis within bamboo vessels, maturing over weeks or even months to metamorphose into a comforting elixir capable of warding off the cold. Tongba transcends mere consumption; it stands as a symbol of togetherness, inviting friends and even strangers to unite.

Himalayan chang

Himalayan Chang epitomizes reverence and resilience. Made from barley, an exceptional grain, its creation involves skilled hands. A blend of cooked rice and dry wine yeast is nurtured for a week, culminating in the emergence of chang. Chang is a perennial companion, offering solace during joyous and somber moments alike. It accompanies farewells, honoring those departed, and provides solace for sorrowful hearts. During Losar, the Himalayan New Year, chang symbolizes hope and fresh beginnings. It’s a testament to the human capacity for creativity even in the harshest environs.

Jaad

Jaad, another Nepali creation, emerges from the fermentation of wheat, rice, or millet over a span of about a week to ten days. It’s tailored to be enjoyed during scorching summers, offering refreshment with a hint of coolness. With a modest alcohol content, jaad boasts a sweet yet slightly tangy flavor profile.

Within the vast embrace of the majestic Himalayas, where time takes on a different rhythm and nature bestows its unique touch upon everything, drinks such as Nepali raksi, tongba, nigaar, chang, and jaad embody the resilience, camaraderie, and sagacity of our people. These drinks harbor a narrative, a memory, and an emotion surpassing the confines of a glass. These beverages transcend mere consumption—they function as conduits bridging past, present, and future. In celebrating these traditions, we honor our origins and our trajectory.