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As Dashain approaches, Nepal is filled with the aromas of spices, roasted meats, and the warmth of family gatherings. For me, memories of childhood in Kathmandu come flooding back—flying kites on rooftops, the colorful creations dancing in the sky, and the sound of laughter all around. Kite-flying was more than a game. It was a way to bond with family and friends, celebrating freedom and joy.

During breaks from kite battles, we’d enjoy simple, yet unforgettable snacks made by our mothers. The cool, crisp weather of the season added to the perfect festive atmosphere. Now, as a chef, these memories inspire me to craft a Dashain feast that embodies togetherness, tradition, and flavor, especially for meat lovers in the family.

A feast rooted in tradition

Dashain is known for its hearty meat dishes, symbolizing abundance and unity. Growing up, goat pakku (slow-cooked meat), mutton curry, and sukuti (dried meat) were festival staples. This year, I aim to celebrate those traditional flavors while introducing a few new dishes from different Nepali communities. My goal is to bring fresh ideas to the table, allowing everyone to experience something new while staying rooted in tradition.

Dashain is not just about food. It’s about creating memories and bonding over shared meals. By showcasing dishes from various communities, we can celebrate our rich Nepali culinary heritage while bringing different traditions together.

Rayo ko saag with goat fat: A Dharane delight

One dish I’m excited to serve this year is ‘rayo ko saag’ (mustard greens) cooked with fatty goat meat. Popular in eastern Nepal, especially in Dharan, this dish combines tender, fatty goat meat with slightly bitter mustard greens. The goat fat adds a rich, melt-in-your-mouth quality, creating a comforting dish perfect for Dashain. It’s simple yet deeply satisfying.

Tite wachipa: A bold Kirat dish

For those eager to try something new, I recommend ‘tite wachipa’, a traditional dish from the Kirat community. Made with chicken and a bitter herb, wachipa offers a unique blend of bitterness and spice. It’s not commonly found on Dashain tables, but it’s perfect for pre-festival meals. The bitter herb is said to cleanse the palate, making wachipa an intriguing addition to a meat-heavy feast.

Pakku and taas: A tasty duo

Goat pakku is a classic Dashain dish, but why not mix things up with taas from Chitwan? Taas is stir-fried mutton, marinated and cooked until crispy on the outside yet tender on the inside. Served with bhuja  (puffed rice), it’s a delicious alternative to traditional pakku. By rotating between pakku and taas, you can keep things fresh while offering familiar flavors.

Goat katia: A Mithila specialty

Another dish I’d love to introduce is goat katia, a spicy stew from the Mithila community. Slow-cooked to perfection, this dish is packed with layers of flavor as the spices infuse the meat. Paired with fresh roti or rice, goat katia is perfect for a festive gathering. It’s simple yet sophisticated, leaving your family talking about it long after the meal is over.

Sekuwa: A grilled favorite

No Dashain feast is complete without sekuwa, Nepal’s famous grilled meat. Whether made from goat, chicken, or buffalo, sekuwa’s smoky, spiced flavor is synonymous with celebration. This year, I plan to dedicate one day just for sekuwa, marinated in Nepali spices, grilled to perfection, and served with achar and salad. Its simplicity allows the meat’s flavor to shine, making it a must-have for any festive meal.

Haku choila: A Newari classic

Another dish perfect for Dashain is haku choila, a Newari-style grilled buffalo meat. Seasoned with mustard oil, garlic, and chili, this smoky, bold-flavored dish is a favorite for meat lovers. Paired with traditional ayla (Newari rice wine), haku choila adds an exciting element to the pre-festival celebrations.

Chicken roast: A dashain tradition

No Dashain feels complete without a festive chicken roast. This dish, reminiscent of grand family gatherings, features chicken marinated in spices and slow-roasted until crispy and tender. The aroma alone is enough to draw everyone to the table. A well-cooked chicken roast adds a touch of elegance and warmth to any Dashain meal.

Pulau with roast lamb or chicken

This year, I’m introducing a new twist on tradition by serving pulau, a spiced rice dish, topped with either roast lamb or chicken. Pulau brings a sense of occasion to the table, reminding me of grand wedding feasts. Paired with khutti (bone broth) and timmur and tomato achar, it’s a hearty, satisfying dish that brings a festive spirit to Dashain.

As we prepare for Dashain 2024, let’s make it a celebration to remember with a feast of mouth-watering, spicy, tangy dishes that will leave a lasting impression. Let’s celebrate not just with food but with memories that warm the heart and soul, bringing family and friends closer together during this special time.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef

Dear readers,

I usually publish my newsletter every Friday. However, with the Dashain break approaching, I’m sharing this update midweek. While Dashain is here, many of us are not in a festive mood. The recent floods and landslides, which tragically claimed 246 lives and left others missing, have cast a shadow over the celebrations. In some areas, victims are still struggling to access basic daily essentials. Although people have started leaving Kathmandu to celebrate Dashain, many highways and roads remain in poor condition, contributing to accidents.

Reports indicate that the monsoon, which brings 80 percent of the country’s annual rainfall, is withdrawing. While heavy rains are unlikely, moderate to light rainfall may continue. These disasters have forced policymakers to reconsider the current development model.

On the political front, there have been no major developments. Former King Gyanendra Shah recently made an unofficial visit to Bhutan, receiving royal treatment, sparking speculation about its potential political impact. Royalist factions are celebrating, suggesting this could help build support for the monarchy’s return. However, major political leaders have yet to comment.

The implementation of recommendations from parliamentary probes into cooperatives has been slow, possibly due to the aftermath of the floods or a lack of political will. Rabi Lamichhane, leader of the Rastriya Swatantra Party, is facing protests from cooperative victims in his home district, Chitwan. Earlier concerns about his arrest have eased.

Meanwhile, Prakash Man Singh Raut has assumed office as the 32nd Chief Justice of Nepal. He faces the daunting task of restoring public trust in the judiciary, which has suffered in recent years. With a reputation for fairness and impartiality, legal experts believe his 18-month term could bring judicial independence. Born in Udayapur in 1961, Raut’s career includes being a Supreme Court Justice since 2016, a former advocate, and president of the Supreme Court Bar Association in 2006.

In environmental news, Nepal is set to receive payments for reducing carbon dioxide emissions through its forests in 13 Tarai districts. Between 2018 and 2024, the country is expected to receive $5 for every ton of carbon sequestered, totaling 2.4m tons under the Tarai Arc Landscape Program. This payment is due by October.

In international news, Israel recently held memorials marking one year since a Hamas-led raid, the deadliest attack in its history. The situation in the Middle East remains volatile, raising concerns for the safety of Nepali workers in Lebanon and Israel. Foreign Minister Arzu Rana Deuba has urged Nepal’s ambassadors to prepare for potential emergencies.

During the Dashain holiday, the print edition of The Annapurna Express will take a break, but we will continue to provide breaking news, analysis and updates on our online platform at theannapurnaexpress.com. Please visit our website for the latest updates.

The number of people leaving Kathmandu for their hometown to celebrate Dashain is increasing day by day.

Nowadays, New Bus Park, Gongabu, is getting crowded due to the sheer number of people going home for Dashain and buying bus tickets in advance.

With the start of the biggest festival of Nepalis, people, who are living in Kathmandu Valley due to various purposes, have started returning home to celebrate Dashain with family members and relatives.

Chief of Kathmandu Valley Traffic Police Office, Deputy Inspector General of Police Bharat Bahadur Bohara said a total 126,435 people left Kathmandu Valley from September 30 to October 3 morning in vehicles—buses, trucks, and motorcycles.

Similarly, Spokesperson of District Police Range, Kathmandu, Nabaraj Adhikari told RSS that the crowd of people returning home has increased at New Bus Park after schools have started closing for the holidays with the beginning of Dashain festival.

He further said they have increased the number of security personnel at New Bus Park keeping the growing crowd of people there in mind, stating that a help desk has been established in order to make passengers travel more smoothly.

Likewise, crowds of people returning home and pressure of vehicles has increased at New Bus Park, Kalanki and Koteshwor areas, shared Kathmandu Valley Traffic Police Office.

Kathmandu is experiencing significant traffic congestion at its entry and exit points due to an influx of passengers and vehicles during the Dashain festival. Driver Ramit Oli, who operates on the Kathmandu-Dhangadhi route for Sudurpaschim Travel, said there is a significant rise in the number of people leaving the city for their hometowns as the festival began.

Road conditions have deteriorated due to rain-related disasters, yet vehicles remain packed as demand rises. By Thursday afternoon, a total of 820 motor vehicles, including buses, microbuses, trucks, private cars, and motorcycles, had departed from Kathmandu. According to Superintendent of Police Nawaraj Adhikari from the District Police Range Kathmandu, 13,503 passengers left the city with those vehicles.

As of noon today, 544 vehicles entered Kathmandu, carrying 6,554 passengers. The number of people traveling in reserved and private vehicles, which are not accounted for in police records, is also said to be increasingly high.

Bus counters have already accepted advance ticket bookings until October 9, making it extremely challenging for travelers to secure a ticket. Lalit Magar from Rolpa said he arrived at the New Buspark in Gongabu in the early morning but was struggling to find a bus ticket to go home.

Hearing on writ petition of habeas corpus would be conducted for four hours from 11 am during Dashain festival holidays as well.

The Supreme Court would remain open for hearing on the writ petitions on Dashain holidays except the day of Ghatasthapana (October 3), Saturday and the day of Vijaya Dashami. 

Though the Supreme Court remains closed from Ghatasthapana to Kojagrat Purnima on the occasion of Dashain festival, only hearing on habeas corpus cases would be conducted. 

The "Navaratri", a nine-night festival known as Bada Dashain and a significant celebration for Hindus in Nepal, commenced today.

Ghatasthapana falls on Ashwin Shukla Pratipada, the first day of the bright half of the lunar calendar month Asoj or Kartik.

According to the Nepal Calendar Determination Committee, the auspicious time for observing Ghatasthapana this year is at 9.16 am today.

Deity Shailaputri is worshiped for observing Ghatastapana on the auspicious hour.

The festival entails reverence for deities such as Brhamacharini, Chandraghanta, Kushmanda, Skandamata, Katyayani, Kalarati, Mahagauri, and Siddhirati.

The first day is being marked by worshiping the deity Shailaputri in accordance with Vedic rituals and preparing for Jamara (barley shoots) by sowing maize and barley seeds in a jar filled with soil and cow dung for germination.

Prayers are also offered to Durga Bhavani, the goddess of power today. Germination of the auspicious "Jamara" is also initiated at Hanumandhoka Dashain Ghar in accordance with Vedic rituals.

On the 7th day of the festival, Dashain Phulpati are brought to home on October 9.

The committee has set 11:36 am as the most auspicious time for Dashain tika on October 12 (Asoj 26).

Dashain is the most significant festival in Nepal, celebrated with family gatherings, laughter, and of course, food. The dining table becomes the heart of the celebration, bringing everyone together to share, laugh, and enjoy meals that reflect love and unity. While meat dishes like goat curry and sukuti are often seen as staples during Dashain, I believe this festival should be just as delightful for vegetarians. After all, food is about inclusion, and when we cook for loved ones, we should ensure everyone feels welcome at the table.

I believe it’s important to reimagine the Dashain menu to cater to those who prefer plant-based meals. Why not celebrate the spirit of togetherness with a vegetarian feast that’s just as flavorful, joyful, and satisfying as any meat-based spread?

Reimagining vegetarian samay baji

If you were to be my guest this Dashain, I would serve you a vegetarian version of ‘samay baji’, a Newari platter traditionally filled with meat but now designed to cater to vegetarian tastes. Each element of this dish would represent the diversity and richness of Nepal’s culinary heritage, made with local, seasonal ingredients. Every bite would reflect the colors and flavors of Dashain, honoring both tradition and innovation.

Chiura (Beaten rice): Light and crispy, this staple pairs perfectly with every other dish, providing a crunchy base for the flavorful elements on the plate.

Bhatmas (fried black soybeans): Crispy and nutty, these black soybeans add texture and balance, offering a satisfying crunch with every bite.

Wa/Bara (lentil pancakes): Rich in protein, these soft lentil pancakes nod to tradition while ensuring the dish remains hearty and fulfilling.

Soybean or mushroom choyela: Typically, a meat-based dish, choyela in this vegetarian version uses smoky grilled soybeans or mushrooms, seasoned with Nepali spices.

Palu (finely cut ginger): This burst of freshness ties the whole plate together, balancing the richness of the other dishes.

Tofu chili: In place of the traditional boiled egg, this spicy stir-fried tofu brings a bold flavor to the plate, adding a dash of heat that’s perfect for the festive meal.

Vegetable pakora: Crispy on the outside, tender inside, these vegetable fritters are a nostalgic touch, reminiscent of fried fish from Malekhu but in a vegetarian form.

Aalu sadeko (spicy potato salad): This tangy, spicy potato salad is full of the addictive, fiery flavors that Dashain meals are known for.

Greens (saag): Whether sautéed spinach or mustard greens, no Nepali meal is complete without greens. They add a colorful, healthy touch to the feast.

Achar (pickles): No Dashain platter is complete without pickles. My version would feature radish, carrot, and lapsi berry, creating a tangy, spicy accompaniment. I’d also include chukauni, a creamy yogurt-based potato pickle from western Nepal, adding a regional twist.

Aila (Newari wine): A small shot of aila would complete the experience, pairing beautifully with the earthy flavors of the vegetarian samay baji.

This vegetarian samay baji is a celebration on a plate, where each element is thoughtfully crafted to honor tradition while offering something new and exciting.

Vegetarian options

Dashain is a festival of abundance, and for me, the essence of this celebration lies in the togetherness it brings—not in the sacrifice of animals. Nepal has a long history of vegetarian cuisine, and this Dashain, I want to showcase how these dishes can stand proudly alongside traditional meat offerings. Here are some of my favorite vegetarian delicacies that are perfect for the festival.

Soybean chili: A spicy, tangy dish where soybeans are the star, offering a bold depth of flavor that’s both exciting and familiar.

Paneer masala: Paneer cooked in a rich, spiced tomato sauce brings a sense of indulgence and comfort to the table.

Aalu cauli (potato and cauliflower curry): This hearty, flavorful dish is packed with Nepali spices, making it the perfect accompaniment to the festive spread.

Mushroom choyela: A vegetarian twist on the traditional grilled meat dish, this version uses marinated mushrooms, offering the smoky flavor that Dashain feasts are known for.

Soy keema kerau masala: My signature dish for Dashain 2024, this soy mince cooked with peas in a spicy gravy provides the perfect vegetarian alternative to keema, giving that famous ‘piro’ (spicy) kick.

Each of these dishes tells a story of family, culture, and love—the essence of what Dashain is all about. Cooking for the people you care about is an act of love, and the joy that comes from creating these meals is shared by all who gather around the table. The heart and soul you put into the kitchen translate into the joy felt at the dining table, making each meal unforgettable.

Celebrating with vibrant vegetarian dishes

This Dashain, I invite you to celebrate with dishes that are as colorful and festive as the kites we once flew on our childhood rooftops. Plates filled with spicy, tangy, and flavorful vegetarian dishes can ensure that this festival will be one to remember. A feast that brings people together, full of flavors that will have your family talking for the rest of the year—a true celebration of tradition, love, and unity.

With this approach, Dashain becomes a time to honor the rich variety of Nepali cuisine, ensuring that everyone at the table, vegetarian or not, feels included and celebrated.

The author is UK-based R&D chef

The Nepal Rastra Bank (NRB) has launched the service for exchanging clean notes for the public today, targeting the Dashain festival.

According to NRB assistant spokesperson Dr Dilliram Pokhrel, the service shall be available until October 8 at the central bank's central and provincial offices and at the branches of all banks and financial institutions.

Pokhrel said individuals are allowed to exchange up to Rs 18,500 of denominations of five, 10, 20, 50, and 100 per head from any bank or financial institution accessible to them. 

Until last year, the Bank would circulate completely fresh notes for the Dashain purpose, but the provision has been changed this time. This time, used but clean or unstained notes are to be provided.

Maha Navami, the ninth day of Bada Dashain, is being observed today by offering special worship to Goddess Durga.

Special worship is performed at the Dashainghar and Kota as well as different temples of Goddesses where billy goats, ducks, pigeons, and he-buffaloes are sacrificed today. Similarly, Durga Saptashati and Devi Stotra are recited at home as well as in different shrines today.

A large number of devotees gather at various shrines of the country to perform worship today, the last day of Navaratra.

On this day, security forces also perform kot puja or worship of armories.

Similarly, the Taleju temple located at Hanumandhoka in the federal capital is also opened for devotees to pay homage on this day. Preparations have been completed for devotees to pay homage at the temple, it has been said.

Hindus across the country are celebrating the eighth day of the ten-day-long Bada Dashain festival as Maha Ashtami by worshiping the Goddess Durga Bhawani.

On this day, people offer special prayers to the goddesses Mahakali, Mahalaxmi, and Maha Saraswati. This particular day of the Dashain festival is considered significant as it is believed that on this day the Goddess Durga gained her divine power.

On the occasion, people perform religious rituals at the Dashain Ghars and armories and offer worship to goddesses at various shrines by offering sacrifices of different animals. The people also chant the mantras from Durga Saptashati, Shrimad Devi Bhagwat and Devi Stotra scriptures.

Devotees throng various goddess shrines in the Kathmandu Valley early in the morning to offer worship and make offerings of goats and ducks.

Likewise, across the country, people visit various goddess temples to perform worship and make offerings, including the sacrifice of goats, ducks, and roosters.

Special Durga Puja ceremonies and prayer rituals take place at the Dashain Ghars. There is also a tradition of worshiping weapons, vehicles, and machines on the day of Maha Ashtami.

For those who refrain from animal sacrifices, various vegetables and fruits are offered in place of animals.

Furthermore, on this day, a special Kalaratri worship is performed at midnight at the Dashain Ghar in local Hanumandhoka. 

The Manakamana cable car service is to remain closed for three days, starting from October 23, during the Dashain festival.  The service is operated by the Manakamana Darshan Pvt Ltd.

According to company Deputy Manager Ujjwal Sherchan, the service will not be operational on Nawami, Dashami and Ekadashi of the Dashain festival. It will resume on October 26.

The Manakamana cable car based in Kurintar (Cheres) of Ichchhakamana-4 in Chitwan was established in 2055 BS.

The famous Manakamana Temple in Shahid Lakhan Rural Municipality in Gorkha is reachable by a 10-minute journey from Kurintar via the cable car.

Doctors have advised the public to be careful of their food choices during this festive season.

They prescribe for limiting the intakes of meat products, beverages and sugary foods during the Dashain festival. 

BP Koirala Memorial Cancer Hospital's medical oncologist Dr Guru Sharan Shah cautioned that festival foods are generally not suitable for good health and can increase the risk of cancer.

Liquor products, in particular, can contribute to various cancer risks including  liver, throat, stomach, breast and intestine cancers.  

Dr Shah also highlights the health risks associated with excessive intake of red meat and sugary foods, which can increase the risk of colon cancer. Grilled meat, due to the presence of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, is linked to an increased risk of stomach cancer.

Dr Shankar Laudari, a cardiologist at Chitwan Heart Hospital, recommends a daily meat intake of just 50-70 grams per person. Consuming more than 150 grams of meat per day can lead to a 15 percent higher chance of suffering a heart attack, according to the doctor.

Moreover, regular meat consumption is associated with a higher risk of diabetes and high blood pressure. "To mitigate these risks, it is advisable to remove fat and skin from meat before cooking and prepare it with minimal oil, spices, and salt. Chicken is a better choice compared to mutton, and fish is recommended over red meat," Laudari added.

Senior physician Dr Bhojraj Adhikari advises the public to maintain a balanced diet during the festival season, urging  them to avoid red meat when possible. "Skinless meat is a good source of protein and is healthier. Excessive use of salt, oil, and spices to enhance the taste of meat is discouraged from a medical perspective."

It is worth noting that frozen meat, as well as grilled, fried, and dried meats, are not considered healthy options. 

Fresh meat should be prepared with minimal salt, oil, and spices. Combining meat consumption with beverages and smoking poses greater health risks. 

A better approach is to include fruits and vegetables along with meat products for a more balanced and health-conscious diet, doctors recommend.

Karveer Budha, a resident of Rajutara in Junichande-7, Jajarkot, was hopeful of receiving rice from the government's depot for Dashain celebrations. But his hopes were dashed as officials informed the locals that the depot would not be able to distribute rice before the Dashain festival.

The disappointment is palpable among the locals who are now uncertain about how to secure rice for the Dashain festivities. Rice is already scarce in the local market, and if available, it comes at a high price compared to the subsidized rice distributed by government depots.

The Food Management and Trading Company (FMTC) has been distributing subsidized rice in various remote areas of the country. However, residents like Karveer are dismayed as the state-owned food company has failed to supply rice to depots in different remote villages. “The Dashain festival is upon us, but we don’t have a grain of rice at home. The government’s depot has remained closed for three months. How can we celebrate in this situation?” lamented Ramkali Gharti of Rajutara.

 The shortage is not limited to the depot in Rajutara. Government depots in Tangachaur, Kauli, and Nayakbada of Barekot, Chaukha of Nalgad, Tapuchaur of Kushe, and Dashera and Pajaru of Chhedagad have all run out of stock. Locals who depend on these depots now face uncertainty about celebrating Dashain, all due to the FMTC’s failure to initiate the tendering process for rice supply on time.

The remote municipalities of Nalgad and Chhedegad, as well as Kushe and Junichande rural municipalities, are grappling with severe food grain shortages. With their summer crops not yet ready for harvest and the FMTC failing to supply food to its depots, residents are facing a challenging situation.

The FMTC has recently chosen bidders to supply food grains to its remote depots. “We selected the successful bidder 10 days ago, and our head office has given us 15 days to sign an agreement with them,” said Ram Prasad Poudel, the chief of FMTC Jajarkot Office. “We urged the company to commence rice transportation immediately, but they are refusing citing bad road conditions due to the monsoon.”

A recent meeting of the District Food Management Committee had requested the relevant authorities to ensure rice supply to government depots before the Dashain festival.

FMTC Jajarkot Office has appointed MB Builders of Jajarkot to transport rice to government depots in Chaukha, Tapuchaur, and Tangachaur. Similarly, Anjila Traders from Nepalgunj have been roped in to transport rice to depots in Pajaru, Dashera, Nayakbada, and Rajutara. According to Poudel of FMTC Jajarkot Office, they will supply 750 quintals to Chaukha, 1,000 quintals to Nayakbada, 500 quintals to Tapuchaur, 750 quintals to Tangachaur, 700 quintals to Rajutara, and 500 quintals each to Dashera and Pajaru.

While Pajaru and Dashera will receive their rice supply from Nepalganj, other depots will receive their supply from the district headquarters Khalanga. Locals prefer thick rice due to its affordability. However, the FMTC Jajarkot Office has only fine rice in stock which is being distributed in the district headquarters, Khalanga. The situation has left locals in a difficult position. As paddy is not cultivated in most remote areas of Jajarkot, locals rely on government depots for their rice supply. However, the FMTC consistently fails to transport rice to these depots on time due to inadequate preparation and an apparent lack of concern for the plight of people in remote areas.

The sixth day of Bada Dashain is being celebrated by Hindus across the country today by worshiping Goddess Katyayani Devi.

Goddess Katyayani is described in Hindu scriptures as a symbol of beauty. It is mentioned in the scriptures that Goddess Katyayani came to this world to prevent obstacles from demonic demons while doing good deeds including charity.

There is a religious belief that worshiping Goddess Katyayani on the occasion of Navratri brings strength, prosperity and knowledge.

The devotees have thronged the Hindu shrines across the country.

In Kathmandu Valley, devotees throng Guheshwori, Jaya Bageshwori, Maitidevi, Kalikasthan, Naxal Bhagawati, Bhadrakali, Kalankimai and several other temples from early morning.

Likewise, Palanchwok Bhagawati, Nala Bhagawati, Kamalamai, Ichchhakamana, Manakamana, Gadhimai, Pathibhara, Dantakali, Baglung Kalika, Bindhabasini, Tal Barahi and other shrines have also received a large number of devotees on the sixth day of the Bada Dashain today.

President Ram Chandra Paudel is to offer tika to VIPs and members of the general public on Bijaya Dashami, the main day of Dashain festival.

According to a press release issued by the President’s Office, President Paudel will offer Dashain tika from 2 pm to 5 pm at Sheetal Niwas.

The President’s Office said that President Paudel is scheduled to offer Dashain tika to VIPs from 2 pm to 3 pm and the general public from 3 pm to 5 pm.

The VIPs include deputy prime ministers and ministers, heads of states, judges, members of the federal parliament, officials of constitutional bodies.

Civil servants, Nepal Army and Nepal Police personnel among others can also receive tika from the President.

The President’s Office has urged one and all to put on decent clothes while coming to receive Dashain tika.

Albeit, age has caught up with me—past my mid-sixties today—every Dashain, when kites dot the sky in a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors–red, blue, yellow, green, you name it, the sight mesmerizes me to take a flight down memory lane to my childhood fantasy—flying and fighting kites.  

Bygone memories surge back, and the image of a skinny little boy swims before my eyes. Oblivious to the rest of the world, he totes a lattai (wooden reel), his eyes glued on his red kite pivoting, spinning, and diving in the sky in the sweltering midday sun, his face turned ruddy swathed in sweat and grime—for all he cares. 

Just then, out of the blue, a yellow-n-black bi-colored kite looms, spoiling for a fight. The boy watches the adversary and, with bated breath, braces himself. The challenger soars up, whirls, and tears down upon his kite. 

Attaboy! The boy smartly outwits the blitzing onrush, propels his kite above the opponent’s, and, gaining the upper hand, zeroes in on it before it can get its bearings. The duel kicks off, both fixated on a kill as lines get fed, and the warring kites spin away. 

Hardly past a few moments, the bi-colored contender, unawares, totters and plunges earthward in a pathetic glide. ‘Chait’, bursts out the boy, bellowing at the top of his voice—his cheeks flushed florid.  

How can I forget those stirring moments drenched in excitement and drama, let alone the wide-eyed, heady little lad flying his kite? Because, dear readers, I was ‘he’.

In the 1960s, in Kathmandu, with no telly and dreary delays (some for months) for movies to switch at the handful of theaters, for the youngsters, the only way out to unwind during the Dashain holidays was to fly kites, run kites and fight kites.

I was 10/12 years old, and my passion and obsession was flying kites. And to satisfy my craze, I would go to any lengths head over heels. I whined, scrounged, stole, threw one too many tantrums at home, and did not mind trading mom’s thrashing for a day’s kiting. 

Following the Dashain escapades, what stood out as endearing reminders were the tell-tale cuts, gashes, and rashes, all so gallantly endured during the time, and the sudden nostalgic feeling a cherished season had again gone by a little too early.

The historical Asan Tole, in those days, with a sprinkling of kite shops, was the hub for all the kiting paraphernalia. Unlike the ready-to-use glass-coated strings (available in later years), we had to do with plain strings. The kites came from Kolkata and Patna (India), the strings from Bareilly (India), while the local carpenters made the wooden reels.

There was more; we could not just yet have a go at flying, as we stood no chance of sparring it out with other flyers without applying the maza on the string—a concoction of alas (flax seed), arrowroot powder, sago grains, a slippery extract squeezed out of a cactus plant called ghyukumari (aloe vera), and powdered glass (pounded electric bulbs). 

We brewed the whole gamut of ingredients into a thick consistency and then applied it to the string and let it dry in the sun; every kiter prided himself in his maza recipe, which he kept hush-hush for success at kite fighting, rested upon it.

I was not an ace fighter, but I held some clout over my neighborhood peers. In my elements, I downed seven or eight kites in a day against a loss of two or three, a feat my local pals admired. But there were days when only frustrating defeats stared me in the face. 

I had friends who were great at kite running, but I needed a stomach for it as it called for speed and brawn that I lacked, and as often as not, such runs ended up in brawls.

One Dashain, our neighborhood was in for a big jolt—an intruder had trespassed our territory, blazing a cutting spree across our sky, spelling doom for every single kite that dared cross its path. None stood a chance, and none—spared. A confrontation for me was inevitable, but I was not the kind to be intimidated that easily. But, it looked like I was fated, too, like the other kiters. It hurt bad when I lost kite after kite to this formidable adversary.

What confounded us most was his style of launching an attack, which was weird to all flyers of our genre. The rule of thumb for us was to secure an upper hold over the opponent’s line and feed the line in a steady, unhurried motion after complete contact. To our disbelief, this fellow did the contrary by engaging his line from below. Incredible!

The kite approached from below, lifted straight up in an unexpected rush, and before we could grasp what was happening, our lines snapped as if a razor had touched them off. Just like that, no kidding! The cutting binge continued for days; all we could do was gawk at our hapless kites. None of our ruses worked against this seemingly invincible invader.

Overnight, this stranger had turned into a superstar, talked about in hushed tones whenever the boys met in the alleys of our neighborhood. Words flew around that this fellow was from India visiting an uncle in our neighborhood.

Near desperation, I decided to visit this mystery fellow, a dark horse—just a spitting distance away from my house. When I dropped by the house, to my great surprise, I found him flying his kite with his bare hands, the reel held by another chap. 

Whoa! No boy in Kathmandu then flew with bare hands! Even as I watched, dumbfounded at the ease, the flourish, and the control he displayed at tugging and jerking on his line, he downed two kites to their doom.

I cautiously approached him, anxious to get to the bottom of this mystery, “Wow! That was superb—two kites downed in less than ten minutes. You know this is the first time anyone has struck off kites in this style in our neighborhood.”

“Well, there is nothing special to it. In India, we fight kites this way,” he smiled. Fascinated, I decided to pry into the matter, pushing on, “It beats me how you do it ‘cause we only spar by paying off our line.”

“Simple,” he volunteered. “If you are mounting your attack by hauling your line, you have to pilot from below when you go for the coup de grace. You need to maintain the upward surge at a very fast and unbroken pace. If you stick to a rapid drag, keeping your line taut, it devastates your opponent.”

“So what’s the other guy supposed to do to foil this attack?” I egged him impatiently. “No sweat! All he has to do is make a dive for it to meet the surge as fast as he can until his line gets into full contact and let go of his line. This way, the other guy won't stand a ghost of a chance.” For me, it was a sensational revelation.

As expected, I had a showdown with him the next day; I launched an attack following the newcomer’s instruction to the letter. I could not believe my eyes when down went his kite; the day followed with three more victories for me against him with just one loss. 

So, after all, this guy was not as invincible as all the local boys and I had come to believe. One should have watched me then, swaggering down the street, my chin held high, my neighborhood boys eyeing me green with envy!

 Most admittedly, the chap from India had caused quite a stir in our neighborhood like never before. The dog-fights between us continued for two more days, each vying to outwit the other, scores almost nip and tuck. Our kites dominated the sky as if the rest did not exist. However, we all this time shared a strange camaraderie despite our kites being in perpetual warfare.

Following a week of our tug of war, I was all set as usual, with a renewed enthusiasm for a face-off. But the sky was conspicuous by the stranger’s kite’s absence. I frantically scoured the sky for his kite to appear almost the entire day, followed by a disappointing two more days–to little avail.

I learned he had left for India. For many Dashains that followed, as the pirouetting kites flashed in vibrant hues and shades against the indigo sky, I really and truly missed the invader from the blue.

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Nepal Rastra Bank has started distributing new banknotes to the general public for Dashain festival from Monday.

Each person will be allowed to exchange up to Rs 18, 500 in denominations of Rs 5, Rs 10, Rs 20, Rs 50 and Rs 100 and 1000, the bank said.

Naresh Shakya, Executive Director of Currency Management Department, said that the bank is planning to issue new banknotes worth around Rs 10 billion.

Meanwhile, people have started queuing up at Nepal Rastra Bank (NRB) office in Baluwatar to collect new banknotes for Dashain since early morning.