From Malekhu to global culinary heights

When I received the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Asian Curry Awards 2024 in London on November 17, memories of my journey flooded back—from my maternal uncle’s small eatery in Malekhu to the grand gala dinners of the Western world.

My father served over 24 years in the Indian Army as a Gurkha Lahure, often far from home. This left my mother to shoulder the family and social responsibilities alone. Naturally, I found myself helping in the kitchen, cooking for the family. I proudly say, “I’m my mother’s son,” because my culinary journey began with her.

From my mother, I learned the importance of simplicity in cooking: Use what is available, cook quickly, make it healthy, and ensure every meal feels like home. She always relied on local and seasonal ingredients. This philosophy of simplicity, speed, and health became the foundation of my culinary journey.

As I grew up, I spent time at my maternal uncle’s house. Both of my uncles were hoteliers, not in the five-star sense but as owners of roadside tea stalls serving Nepali khana sets and snacks to travelers along the Prithvi Highway. One uncle, Chabilal Maraharra, was the visionary behind Malekhu Macha Bazar. He popularized Malekhu ko Macha, a local fish delicacy paired with aloo chop (crispy potato cutlet fritters) with tangy tomato chutney. This creation turned Malekhu into a culinary brand. At his eatery, I discovered the power of commercial cooking and learned the basics of the hospitality business.

Today, Malekhu is synonymous with fried fish, but it was my uncle’s goat meat curry that defined the Nepali Khana set. His expertise earned him the nickname Chop Baje. Inspired by him, my cousin opened Hilltop, a high-end roadside eatery, and other members of my family have carried forward this legacy, continuing to serve travelers along the highways connecting Kathmandu, Pokhara, and Chitwan.

I was a part of this culinary heritage. Raised in Pokhara and Malekhu’s vibrant roadside eateries, I later moved to Kathmandu. Life in the capital introduced me to Newari bhatti pasals, which I consider as integral to Nepali culture as tapas bars are to Spain or pubs to Ireland. These humble establishments are unsung heroes of our food culture, bringing people together over authentic local flavors.

Another culinary influence was my aunt, a Newar from Patan, who could whip up a traditional Nepali Khana set in minutes. Beyond her cooking skills, she was also an architect and designer. From her, I learned the art of plating, balance, and respecting local ingredients.

This boy from Malekhu eventually reached some of the world’s most prestigious kitchens. I had the honor of cooking for the Ambani family during their non-stop flight from Los Angeles to Mumbai, preparing every dish served—soups, canapés, appetizers, main courses, desserts, and breakfasts. Knowing they trusted only my food for this significant journey filled me with immense pride.

I also cooked for the former Saudi prince, now King Mohammed bin Salman, during a crucial trip to Imola, Italy, at the height of COVID-19. This mission was critical as he negotiated a Formula 1 contract for Jeddah. I’ve served at Augusta for the Gulf Masters, catered for Bernie Ecclestone and his family, and participated in events like Formula 1 and the FIFA World Cup.

Each chapter of my journey holds significance, but nothing compares to the pride I felt on award day. Receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Asian Curry Awards from the Asian Catering Federation was a moment of triumph. Held in London—the curry capital of the world—the event was attended by UK ministers, Lords, mayors, and pioneers from the Asian hospitality industry, along with over 200 media personalities.

The Asian Catering Federation (ACF), representing 30,000 Asian and Oriental restaurants of the UK, organizes these awards to honor all Asian cuisines, from Bangladeshi and Indian to Korean, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and beyond.

Standing on that stage, I reflected on the journey that brought me here—from cooking simple meals with my mother to representing Nepal on a global platform. This award was not just for me. It was for my family, my community, my fraternity, and my country. This achievement is a milestone, but my journey is far from over.

After receiving this honor, my focus has shifted to nurturing the next generation. I aim to mentor young talent, guiding them to achieve greatness and take Nepal’s culinary identity to even greater heights. I envision a future where they stand on global stages, earning accolades and inspiring others.

The future of our industry lies with the next generation. They bring fresh ideas, creativity, and a drive to innovate. As seasoned professionals, it’s our duty to equip them with the tools, knowledge, and platforms they need to succeed.

My vision is to help these young chefs navigate the challenges of the culinary world while preserving the rich traditions that define our craft. I hope to see them become culinary heroes who lead with integrity, passion, and a commitment to excellence.

By empowering the next generation, we ensure our legacy endures. The culinary fraternity is not just about individual achievements. It is about collective progress and shared success.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef