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 Last week I had a front-of-house and back-of-house view of the new Kathmandu Marriott Hotel at Naxal. I can see the hotel from my bedroom window and it’s a somewhat sad looking, Soviet style grey block of a place. But it’s quite different when you get up close!

 If you are driving, you need to negotiate the small roads round Nag Pokhari. Unless you are familiar with the area, the first time might be a bit of a challenge. Once there, they have an underground car park. Entering through large glass doors the lobby is spacious with a very high ceiling. So high a bell the size of which would do any monastery proud hangs out of reach. The seating area in the lobby overlooks an inner courtyard that is open to the air, appropriately called Naxal Square. A couple of small water features and some greenery grace the courtyard. There is access from here to the infinity pool above.

 Still on the ground floor, we can find the Kathmandu Baking Company, or KBC. Offering cakes, donuts, cookies, pastries, coffee and juices to take-away or eat-in, this is a welcome addition for anyone who lives locally (aka me). Later when going behind the scenes I learned that the pastry chef at KBC spent many years in the Hyatt in both Kathmandu and Chennai. Next door are several nooks and crannies belonging to the Thamel Kitchen. This promisingly named restaurant offers, as they describe it, authentic multi-cuisine from the interactive kitchen.

 For those who love modern pan- Asian food, Edamane Restaurant upstairs offers live Yakitori ( Japanese skewered meats cooked over charcoal), other Japanese delicacies, and dishes from around Asia. The décor here is particularly intimate and attractive, overlooking the open courtyard. Also with a cosy yet sophisticated feel is the Roxi Music Bar, which has live jazz on the weekends. With an outdoor seating area complete with gentle waterfall, this could be the ultimate chill-out spot. Meantime, for those who prefer a little more action, the gym and pool are at hand. The pool is the standard hotel-size, with a smaller, shallower pool for children. This one contains another water feature: stone lions, the likes seen in the Durbar Squares, stand guardian over the water. The gym is set up, with the spa area coming online soon. Along with hotel guests, the gym, pool and spa will be open to those who wish to become Marriott fitness members.

 Membership is limited so get along soon! I was told they have not decided yet whether the pool will be open to non-members, but it seems likely they will have a Saturday lunch and swim deal. Also for non-Nepali guests a casino will be open around August 2019.

In case you have visiting friends or clients, the almost 200 deluxe and king guestrooms are larger than the norm and fitted with the usual quality furniture and fittings you would expect from the Marriott. Bathrooms are spacious, with separate bathtubs and showers. I found the suite rooms a bit disappointing as with the room divided they take on the appearance of being smaller than they actually are. But for those who like their sitting and sleeping areas separated (by a reversible large flat screen TV) then it’s good. *Plus point: they have two accessible rooms for guests who require a wheelchair or have similar needs.

The huge banquet space, with amazing contemporary chandeliers, and smaller meeting rooms, all with state of the art AV equipment, are available for conferences, meetings and events. If you are thinking of getting married, Shaadi by Marriott is a specialised wedding planning facility, taking care of every detail for your big day.

With a French manager, international management team, Nepali chefs and front-of-house staff, all of whom have served in some of the best hotels around the world, the standard of service is high. Backof- house they have their own staff training facilities as well as motivational murals and posters along the corridors to inspire and educate. Something a lot of hotels in Nepal really should have. With the final touches due to be in place by end of July I certainly intend to be back very soon.

 Those of you who are regular readers will have noticed that I was not in the paper last week. When I queried why my column didn’t appear I was told that a two-page sports feature had taken up my, and other, space. Yes, quite true, I had noticed the middle spread was all about sport. “Not all read­ers are interested in football”, I quipped. “It’s World Cup cricket”, came the reply. “Which just proves my point. Period.” So it would seem we are entering five weeks of world class cricket coverage. Which, now that I look closely at the two-page spread, is being held mainly in England.

Despite being British, I know noth­ing about cricket. Or very little about it. I have, over the years, watched the IPL matches out of India. On and off. With interesting names such as Chennai Super Kings and Kolkata Knight Riders and having patrons/owners the likes of Shah Rukh Khan, there is a little more spice (masala maybe?) to watching this cricket league. But it’s mainly the audience’s reactions that I am watching. To me the audiences in India provide more entertainment that those men in various colors running around a field! The cheer­leaders dancing around, pompoms in hand to Bollywood numbers are also fun to watch. And so, just not (English) cricket!

Aside from the IPL, I know as much about Indian cricket as I do about any breed of cricket. But I do know that when India and Paki­stan play, the TV viewing rates go through the roof! Quick men­tion here of the fact India play Pakistan on June 22 in the Cricket World Cup. I might even watch that one—if someone will sponsor me a drink or two!

Meantime, oddly enough, some weeks ago I did meet Jonty Rhodes, a former South African cricket player and fielding coach of IPL team the Mumbai Indians. He, along with West Indies and Afghanistan coach, Ryan Maron, were here in Nepal for a 10-day high performance coaching camp aiming to both train coaches and select a few young players for the national under-19 team. Not only was Rhodes extremely impressed by the level of ability in Nepal, he also stood up for child rights. In the press meet of the Dhangadhi Premier League (DPL) 2019 Rhodes signed a commitment to end child mar­riage in Nepal, put forward by social partner World Vision International Nepal. Bet you didn’t know that Mr Cricket Fan.

Okay so maybe I do know more about cricket than I realized. Per­haps it’s my sporty father. I don’t think he ever played cricket but when I was very young he was the commentator at Gayfield Park, the football stadium in Arbroath, Scot­land. Since we lived in Arbroath at the time, and since he somehow, I don’t know how, was obviously enough of a fan to be a commentator, he supported the Scottish Football League team, Arbroath FC. And still makes an annual trip to Gayfield to support his team.

I remember sitting high up in the commentator’s box on Saturday afternoons. Most probably having an Arbroath pie at half time. Or a bri­die (similar to a pie but shaped more like a big Tibetan Shabaley), coming famously from down the road in For­far. But no, I don’t like football either. Also in Arbroath, my father was a tennis coach at a private tennis club. And no, I don’t like tennis either. See a pattern here?

Anyway, back to the World Cup Cricket, which I will not be watch­ing. For those who got excited to see the schedule printed out in the middle of this publication last week I can only say bah humbug! Just kidding… But some of you were missing me, I know. I’ll see you guys in the bar. And rest of you, cricket loving folks, I wish you few no balls!

 Now that summer is finally here I feel inspired to eat more salad. Trying to get into the fitness thing is always a challenge but this time round I’m determined to also get into nuts and seeds. As a child and teenager I didn’t like nuts (except salted peanuts). Even later I pretty much turned my nose up at almonds and the like. Perhaps the ones found in Scotland in those days were old, bordering on stale? So when did I develop a taste for these parcels of natural goodness? Perhaps when I first came to Nepal.

Which was in the winter and fresh peanuts in shells were seen on every street corner. Warm from roasting. But living on the Tarai I don’t remember there being many varieties of nuts around. Ultimately, I think my nutty attraction started around the time when the dieting fraternity decided that nuts were no longer ‘fattening’, but contained ‘good fats’ and therefore we were free to add them to our daily diet. In fact we were positively urged to add them.

Walnuts probably came first for me. Walnut and beetroot salad is still very much on my menu. And, I hate to admit it, but I never saw raw beetroot until a few years ago. The beetroot I ate in Scotland came pickled in a jar. And I honestly thought the color was an additive! But remember I come from a country where fried Mars Bars (in batter) is a real thing! Sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds came next. Sprinkled over the top of a salad or in morning muesli. (I can see my child self making a face.)

With rising awareness on health issues and more reasonable prices, I think more and more people will be going nutty over seeds

I was introduced to chia seeds a couple of years ago and I started adding those to yogurt, muesli and salads also. Flax seeds are something I have come across more recently, and now use both the seeds and oil (am I not good?). My mother always has fresh blueberries in the fridge, but I have yet to develop a taste for them. However, I am trying really hard to incorporate the dried variety into my salads too. Whether any of these make us more healthy I guess depends on all sorts of personal factors, but if they taste good, why not? (Reading this back my child self is asking if I have turned into a bird…)

But why are they so pricy here? Can seeds and nuts really be this expensive or are they just marked up for the niche market which is mainly expats? Most of the above were once only to be found at the organic markets around town and are still prohibitively expensive. I guess it’s economics of scale. As a result, I used these seeds, nuts, and dried fruits sparingly, thinking more about my budget than my health.

But good news! I have now found all of the above (and more) at a more affordable price, aiming I guess at a growing local market that is becoming health conscious. Interestingly, the producers’ website states they have been in operation for over 30 years! It doesn’t explain further so I think perhaps in the past they specialized in the more traditional nuts for festive occasions. Sold now in 100g and 250g (unfortunately plastic) jars with the benefits and eating suggestions printed on the labels, the nuts, seeds and dried fruits are still a bit pricy, but nowhere as expensive as those in the organic markets.

Definitely this is still a bit of a niche market but with rising awareness on health issues and more reasonable prices, I think more and more people will be going nutty over seeds (and nuts, and dried fruits…) And although this is not an advert for the company I know readers now want to know its name. Morsel International. Google it!

 According to Wikipedia, the only international airport currently in Nepal was established in 1949, officially inaugurated in 1955 by King Mahendra. In 1957 the grass runway was replaced by concrete, and the name Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) given in 1964.

 Since then it would appear not too much has changed. In 1992, there were two major disasters. The first involving Thai Airways Flight 311 when all 113 on board lost their lives. The second came only two months later when Pakistan Airlines Flight PK268 crashed with 167 lives lost. In both cases, the investigation pointed to ineffective radio communication between the ground and flight crew.

At that time there was no instrument landing system (ILS) in place, and it was only in 1994 that licensing of air traffic controllers was introduced. In 1998 an ASR/SSR radar system was inaugurated, funded by the Government of Japan that has supported many safety features ever since. But the challenges presented by the location of TIA remain.

We all have a love-hate relationship with airports, right? Therefore anything an airport authority can do to make the journey more bearable is appreciated. So, leaving mountainous terrain aside, let’s look (as I promised you last week) at the services provided to customers at the TIA. Let’s start with departing passengers. Those family members, friends or tour guides who have come to see off their loved ones must say their goodbyes at the entrance. No opportunity for that final hug inside the building. Just a very public farewell on the roadside. And don’t bring the family car with you—no stopping please!

Finally out of the airport, where is the transport? No airport buses, no signposts for public transport.

On receipt of your boarding pass, travel upwards to complete an immigration form (for departure?), and through passport control. Where the computer may or may not be working (which is probably why we need those immigration forms). Experienced TIA travellers will not head toward security yet—knowing there are not enough seats at the gates for everyone. Very experienced TIA travellers will know there is a restaurant upstairs (don’t be confused by the Business Class Lounge sign) run by the Radisson Hotel. (Please keep this secret!) Security negotiated, hunt for a seat at your gate and wait until it is your turn to either walk across the tarmac or be bussed 60 metres. Ignore the laughing tourists.

And if you came to Nepal for adventure, well the adventure starts, sure enough, at Arrivals. Inside, unsuspecting tourists mill around looking for the ‘correct’ counter or struggle with machinery designed to smooth the visa process. Eventually stumbling through immigration, be prepared to have your carry-on luggage scanned because who knows, the country you just left might have a less intensive security check (eye roll). Then the fun really begins.

Wait endlessly for your luggage to appear. Hopefully you arrive at a time when there are not too many planes landing, taking up the two baggage belts, mixing the luggage from one flight with another. Your luggage might be unceremoniously dumped on one side, so check the floor also. Luggage tags will be inspected on exiting the airport. How many newbies actually kept their luggage tags?

Finally out of the airport, where is the transport? No airport buses, no signposts for public transport. And haven’t we been told prepaid taxis are more expensive? But best just cough up for a prepaid or face a long walk to the new car park or main road where you can try to negotiate a rate which will probably be more than the prepaid cab was anyway. Welcome to Nepal!

 It’s not something you often hear in Kathmandu: ‘The customer is always right’. For those unfamiliar with the phrase, or living in Nepal for so long they have forgotten its meaning, it translates into ‘good customer service’! Having just bought a SIM card, and being wished happy birthday for the next day by the saleswoman (copy of passport required and it seems she had taken note) I stand outside Arrivals at Changi Airport wondering my best route. Instantly my body language is noted and there is assistance at hand. Changi employs people whose sole job is to advise lost-looking tourists. This was just the beginning of three days of great customer service!

 I’m amused to note that Singaporean taxi drivers have the same basic conversations as those in Nepal: where are you from, how do you like the country, etc, etc. They also have a great sense of humor. I’m told by a laughing (middle-aged) driver “That time has expired la” when I explain I lived in Singapore 25 years ago. He is highly amused and amusing. I notice waiting staff are very efficient and can make recommendations on or off the menu. I notice seats reserved for the elderly or people with special needs on public transport left vacant or given up willingly. But good customer service is not restricted only to human interaction. Great signposting and information boards make Singapore extremely easy to negotiate; it’s hard to go wrong really. So, yes, I enjoy my days of being ‘always right’ and the feeling of being welcome as a visitor to this small country.

 Then I move on to Indonesia. I’m instantly reminded of Nepal. People trying really hard to please but just being slightly off-point and often being a bit grumpy or employing that giggle that foreigners often mistake as rudeness but which is actually covering a momentary insecurity. Over the years I’ve seen a lot of conflict between a foreigner and a local because of that giggle. But last year when in Scotland I realized that I have come to not only accept but expect it.

 The occasion was getting out of a swimming pool which had steps rather than a ladder. Somehow I managed to slip and fall up the steps. Turning to the Scottish ladies nearby I expected the sympathetic, slightly embarrassed, not-quite-sure-whatto- say giggle. What I got was concerned words and looks. Which somehow made me feel more stupid for falling.

 “Don’t have” is the bored reply as an assistant gives a nanosecond glance to the sample bangle I have with me

 Meantime over in Bangkok I’m searching a huge shopping mall for the cheap bangles I bought there in the past. “Don’t have” is the bored reply as an assistant gives a nano-second glance to the sample bangle I have with me. “Don’t have” is a common response in Thailand but I’m never sure whether it means they really don’t have the item or you and your request are too small to deal with. Finding the required bangles myself, the assistant is happy enough to take my money though. My thoughts run something like “… see you had them, you just didn’t want to bother looking for an item costing less than $6 …..” I wander off into the maze of stalls. A few minutes later the girl comes running up, full of smiles at having found me, clutching my sample bangle which I had dropped. Sometimes cultural differences make it hard to see customer service which is there all along!

 No need to discuss the ‘customer service’ rolled-out at the TIA! In fact having been dazzled by Changi Airport I think a little comparison review is needed. Until then, have a great week and thank you for taking the time to read this column!  

I never thought I would be writing about a children’s playground. But recently I found myself taking a couple of kids along to ‘By the Way Organic Garden with Kids Venue’ on the recommendation of a friend. Those of you who have kids will know that playgrounds in Kathmandu are few and far between. I’ve been to Alice Restaurant in Naxal several times as they have a nice little play area for children. But the problem with Alice is it’s a victim of its own success. It can be impossible to get a table there on weekends and holidays!

So I was interested to find out more about By the Way Organic Garden with Kids Venue (By the Way, for short). We arrived on New Year’s Day around 1pm and the place was ours alone. A large outdoor space as well as an almost as large indoor space dedicated to kids. Swings, slides, various things to climb on, climb over, crawl through, hide inside or jump off were on offer in a rainbow of colours. “WOW” said one child. “Wow” said I. “Wow” mimicked the taxi driver. Within the next half hour two other families arrived giving the children new friends to interact with. There seemed a camaraderie between the adults—like we were sharing a little-known secret.

Inside, apart from the play area, there are two areas set up for adults. One is more café style, with nice seating, and the other more canteen style. If you can drag the children away from the play apparatus to eat! But I have to say, the menu did not live up to the ‘organic garden’ name. The usual momos, chicken wings, pizza and French fries were on offer. Perfect for children of course. But we three (bideshi) adults wanted a good cappuccino and something a little less oily. This inspired me to find out more. And give some constructive feedback!

 With no management on site that day, I later contacted one of the team of partners, Shanta Dev Duwadi. The waiter had already told me that the current management was new, and I found out that the restaurant has been running only a few months. When I asked Duwadi about the reason behind By the Way, it was much as I expected. “We grew up in a Kathmandu with green spaces but today there is nowhere for children to play. There are no public parks and very few homes have gardens. We wanted to create somewhere safe and sunny for children.”

Although the playground had been running for some time, the restaurant is a new venture by the current management. Now for some feedback! Perfect as the menu was for the kids (momos and French fries are pretty much what they want regardless), us adults would have enjoyed something healthier. The main draw is, 100 percent, the playground and facilities for the kids. But the addition of just one coffee machine would make all the difference to me.

 Duwadi mentioned that they have agriculture land in the valley and they plan to introduce their own, homegrown vegetables to the menu in due course. Not quite organic, but without chemical pesticides.

 It was also mentioned that the masala and spices used in the kitchen are freshly made, not shop bought. Home grown vegetables and fresh spices on the menu and the planned small vegetable market is something to look forward to. Meantime, I noticed a BBQ counter and was told this is only available on pre-booking for private parties. And with plenty of parking space it’s the ideal place for kids’ parties. Definitely!

 Situated at Maharajgunj and open from 9am till 7pm, By the Way charges Rs 150 per hour per child. Which I feel is worth the money. And yes, we will be back on a regular basis! For further information check out their Facebook page or call 01-4371030.

I talk often enough about fourwheel vehicles. Or more specifically, taxis. Even more specifically, their drivers. But what about bikes? First off, I still get confused when I hear the word bike. Where I come from, a bike is what children get for Christmas. Yes, what is termed a ‘cycle’ here in Nepal. To me then, a motorised ‘bike’ is a motorbike. And, while on the topic, a scooter is a scooter, not a scooty (however it is spelt). Who came up with that word anyway, it’s hardly an abbreviation worth bothering about?

Anyway, back to bikes (of the motor persuasion). They are everywhere. Parked on the pavement, triple parked in designated spots, driving on the pavement, suddenly appearing from narrow lanes not big enough to swing a cat; you know it! But in case you don’t know—bikes are supposed to follow the same rules as cars. That is, not being two abreast so you can chat to your friend. Not four abreast just because you can. And definitely not weaving in and out, and tearing around the wrong side of a vehicle making it a real danger for pedestrians.

I still get confused when I hear the word bike. Where I come from, a bike is what children get for Christmas

 I realize, monetary constraints aside, the majority of people have bikes as they are easier to handle and faster to navigate through the congestion. That said, what is not on is bikes making the congestion worse by not waiting their turn at a junction and by filling every available gap. Really no one is going any faster if you act in this haphazard manner. A few months ago I wrote about the art of shopping in Nepal. Where the shop keeper serves six people at one time. He gets through the customers equally as quickly on his clock but the least pushy customer may find himself taking five times as long while others are served ahead of him. That’s how it is with bikes. The more bikes that push and squeeze their way to the top of the queue the more time every other vehicle takes to get across the junction. So you Mr Macho get home 30 seconds quicker but the rest of us have to spend another five minutes in the line while 20 bikes sail ahead.

 And it’s not just the men. Female bike riders (or ‘scooty’ riders), if not equally as aggressive, are equally as dangerous. Probably more so. Like the college-aged bike riders who are extremely gung-ho with their devilmay- care attitude, female riders seem oblivious to other road users. Is it because they ride less frequently or is it because they feel they have an ‘Equal Right’ to the road? Or is it just because they are more bitchy to other road users, especially female pedestrians? I often get the feeling it is the latter. Because whereas there are a few gentlemen on the road, there are not any gentle-women! There are just hard-core feminists making their point.

Getting back to bad road habits— why do cars and bikes heading the same direction across a junction go two different ways? I mean when there is a police box in the middle of the junction or some other obstacle, the traffic streams to both the left and the right. I’m from Britain where we have an excellent system to control the flow of traffic at a junction. A round-about. Similar to those round police boxes in the middle of the chowk, but bigger. Sometimes the size of Maitighar. Or as small as my desk (if it was round). These ensure the flow of traffic runs smoothly, one way around the crossing. Even if you are riding a bike. Imagine— traffic running smoothly and predictably. And we all get home so much sooner!

Nestled up a short driveway in busy Gairidhara, Noya (meaning “beauty of god” in Hebrew), is a peaceful 11-room boutique hotel set in its own courtyard. Being an original Rana house, it seems fitting that, since Rana architecture was heavily influenced by British neoclassical traditions, Noya serves traditional English afternoon tea.

I have personally been doing the rounds of places that provide afternoon tea. A short round, as no one in Kathmandu does this! The Hyatt used to provide afternoon tea in their lobby lounge but according to the head waiter, they stopped several years ago. Fairfield by Marriott periodically provides an afternoon tea menu, but with very Indian inspired eats. As distant from an English afternoon tea as, well, India is from England.  

Naturally it’s possible to buy excellent cakes and tea/ coffee in many restaurants in town. But there is something luxurious about having sandwiches, cakes and scones presented as a three-in-one meal, in a stunning setting. So Noya Hotel is filling a much needed gap in the market. And this might be the perfect thing to do over the Easter weekend!

Recently I talked to Santosh Bahadur Shah, the owner of Noya, to ask how his idea of creating afternoon tea in Kathmandu came about. “As a London based commodities trader, my passion for tea and coffee led me to form a UK company trading in tea and coffee,” explains Shah. Growing up in London was the main reason for him becoming involved in the afternoon tea culture—think Fortnum and Mason, and Kensington Gardens Hotel, the pinnacles of afternoon tea. “Travelling around Europe promoting Nepali tea and coffee, I also had the chance to sample a lot of afternoon teas in different countries. You could say I am a connoisseur not only of fine teas, but also of afternoon tea culture,” laughs Shah. 

Returning to Nepal to open Noya Hotel was the perfect opportunity to pass on his passion and fascination for tea to both those living in Kathmandu and visiting tourists. I asked if he thought Kathmandu was ready for an afternoon tea culture. “Tea growing was established in Nepal long before coffee was introduced and if you think about it, every Nepali family drinks tea in the morning and afternoon. In Darjeeling there is a culture of having scones and pastries with tea in the afternoon, so why not Kathmandu?”  

Buying tea directly from small plantations in Illam, Jiri, and Dhankuta, and from major tea companies, Shah offers a variety of Nepali teas as well as teas from China, Japan, Sri Lanka and Thailand. In the afternoon tea set you can chose from Japanese Matcha tea and Thai Pea tea, to Blooming tea and hand-rolled Himalayan tea. All teas are served in real antique silver teapots (imported from London), with silver plated tea strainers and the finest bone china cups.  

But no afternoon tea is complete without the food! Noya offers a variety of finger sandwiches, savouries, scones with jam and clotted cream, Victoria sponge, and other cakes. Your typical English afternoon tea. But again in-keeping with that fusion of cultures, Noya also offers afternoon tea Nepali style. On offer with Nepali chai is a range of savouries such as bara, chatamari and khapse, and sweets. Determined to keep away from Indian sweets, Shah sources his sweets, including barfi, jeri-swari, and gulmadi, from small family-run, traditional sweet shops in Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu. Tasty, and helping to keep alive the dying tradition of Nepali sweet making! All the goodies in the English and the Nepali afternoon tea sets are served on a three-tier plate stand, a pure afternoon tea etiquette, starting with savoury on the bottom and ending with the sweetest titbits on the top. 

Afternoon teas are available daily by reservation only (one day prior). From Rs 2,500 per set (for 2 people). For further information, and to make reservations, see Noya on Facebook.