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The Midnight Riders Trio, popularly known to its fan and followers as TMR Trio, is a one-of-a-kind blues-rooted band based in Kathmandu. With over 10 years of experience playing covers and originals together as a band, TMR Trio finally launched its debut album ‘Baiguni Lai Blues Le Marnu Parcha’ on 21 September at Club 25 Hours, Tangalwood. Produced by Chicago-based Wild Yak Records, this album contains nine Nepali tracks which explore various sub-genres of blues. TMR Trio is currently one of the most recognized blues bands in the country having played extensively in Kathmandu, as well as Pokhara, Narayanghat and Bhairahawa. The band plays blues covers of international artists and also performs its originals in Nepali. This extended playlist makes it one of the most unique bands of the country loved by audiences of all ages, gen­ders and social standing. TMR Trio’s forte is playing live, as we saw at the album launch last week. The band’s Western-influenced Nepali sounds have a niche, but ardent group of follow­ers. Supported by Newaz, who kicked off the gig with their own unique sound, the launch was attended by these die-hard fans, despite it being a gig-infested Saturday in town!

The original TMR (known as The Midnight Riders) was founded by Deep Shamsher Rana, Sunny Mahat and Jimi Blues in May 2010; playing for the first time at “Let the Good Times Roll I” in June 2010. The band then played with different line-ups and covered a wide range of music genres from 80s pop to rock. Unfor­tunately Rana had to leave the band around 2014 because of professional commitments. The remaining members released The Midnight Riders’ debut album, Yaatra, in 2017. It was somewhere around the 2014 mark that I first heard the band. But I’ve got to admit I enjoyed the cover versions that Sunny Mahat, bass­ist and band manager talks about below!

“The album did not do well, and we think it is because of the “cover music” tag we had at that time. We were more popular for playing AC/DC covers than originals. Everywhere we played, AC/ DC songs were requested,” states Mahat. “It was fine at first. We were getting good gigs. But after a while it got monotonous.”

So how did the band tran­sition from The Midnight Rid­ers, cover band, to TMR Trio we know today?

“Jimi’s love for the blues had always been there. So we formed a Trio and named it TMR Trio, an abbreviation of the larger band’s name. At that time the The Midnight Riders’ singer Jigme Lepcha was tak­ing a break from music, so we rebranded ourselves as TMR Trio,” Mahat.

Going back to the new album, its name is interesting. What does it mean exactly? “It’s a whimsical take on the age-old saying ‘Baiguni Lai Gunn Le Marnu Parcha.’ Roughly translated in English it’s ‘the ingrate should be won over with benevolence’,” explains Mahat. Jimi Blues laughs, “Yes, TMR Trio wants to win everyone over with the blues and spread the mes­sage that music helps you win against all sorts of evils and negativity.”

The album contains music written, performed and recorded by TMR Trio. The lyrics are in Nepali and the band has explored the many sub-genres of rock music, in-keeping with its blues roots, and also keeping in mind com­mercial aspects of music for the younger crowd.

For example, you might have heard the peppy ‘Funky Kathmandu’ which set a trend of #FunkyKathmandu on social media. This was a taster for the completed album! I note that there is one non-original track on the album, a rendition of Mukti and Revival’s ‘Kanchi Nani Blues’—a deliberate tribute to one of the most influen­tial blues-based bands in the country.

According to the band, TMR Trio has followers in Nepal, including expats and locals, as well as Nepalis living abroad. So why not check out their Facebook page for news of their upcoming gigs? And don’t forget to purchase the new album!

As I write this, Indra Jatra is in full swing. And the rain is falling. Heavily. A couple of months ago I wrote in this column that the monsoon rain appeared to be falling only at weekends. Then it disappeared pretty much all togeth­er. Over the last two or three weeks it came back with a vengeance! And everyone is discussing how the mon­soon should be on the way out by now. Even the BBC advised that the ‘receding’ monsoon was return­ing for one last go. But Facebook reminds me that over the past five or six years I have written comments in September about how much late rain is pelting down. So it’s not just this year we are getting a lot of last-minute rain; our memories are simply short!I live between two, let’s call them ‘rivers’ for the sake of argument. Over time these two rivers have had their banks encroached by houses. In fact one river runs completely under my road to emerge around 200m further on to join its sibling. Reunited they both flow on under Uttar Dhoka road and I assume into the palace grounds. Although I must admit I don’t see any evidence of this. (If you know where that river goes to please let us know in the online comment box!) Each year my road floods as these siblings try desperately to fit into their tiny channels, fail, and rush at consider­able speed along the slightly sloping roads. Being trapped between these two rivers means there is no way into the neighborhood that doesn’t involve wadding through knee-deep water. Thankfully, once the rain stops, the water miraculously dis­appears.

So now I want to mention the heroes of this story. No, not Lord Indra, but a couple of taxi drivers! Those of you who either know me, or read this column regularly know my ongoing battle against taxi driv­ers. Yet two weeks ago, coming back from a meeting, we could see the larger road to my place was run­ning with water. At a gallop. A truck was sitting in the middle of this, obviously wondering what to do next. Reversing the cab out of the road I suggested going another way round which would get me closer to where I thought I would have to start wadding through the murky water. That road was also flooded but my hero braved the water and took me directly to dry land. As it was Teej my neighbors had visitors dressed to the nines in their heavy silk finery. They looked relieved when he said he could take them out of the rising ocean of filthy water.

The next morning I saw some of my neighbors pumping water out of their lower-than-the-road homes. That was a futile job as later that same day the tsunami of dirty water came again. With the rain not as heavy I was confident that the road would not flood. Obviously Indra did not take this position. This time Utta Dhoka and three roads leading to my apartment were flooded. But as luck would have it I had anoth­er hero of a taxi driver who drove through even deeper water to reach my place. I was seriously worried about the engine. This time a private car was sitting on the only dry spot and took comfort that the taxi got through and decided to make a go of it. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you how that story ended.

But back at my story: I have now come to the conclusion taxi drivers get so bored in their daily grind their refusal to go where you want them to is their way of kicking back. But give them a challenge and they will rise to it. Like true knights of the road!

And BTW, Lord Indra, we thank you for this year’s rain but now it’s time to leave. Please.

Aloft Hotels are open in space and spirit. Fresh, purposeful environments and vibrant spaces that bring people together... the next generation of hotels, using technology and design to enhance experiences and move at the pace of next gen guest. Or so they state on their website. But is Kathmandu ready for the next gen of hotels? 

Aloft in Kathmandu is situated in the heart of Thamel. Attached to the new Chhaya Center. A unique combo of mall and hotel, a first for Nepal, in an area not surrounded by other high rise buildings. This facilitates views of Swayambhunath from the WXYZ bar and some of the sleeping rooms. If, as it is said, location is everything, then Aloft has it all! Yet, Aloft Kathmandu Thamel also has the familiar appearance and vibrant style which their regular global, young and hip customers will recognize. Such as a 24/7 one-stop shop for snacks.

Having just opened in July this year, the rooms are priced very reasonably (put your trendy guests here folks). But I want to know more about what’s on offer for those of us who live in Kathmandu. I’m excited to know ‘Live at Aloft’ will be coming on-stream soon, a live music event in the bar area. I took a look at the Splash swimming pool. Here is something a bit different. An indoor infinity pool. Huge glass windows give it that infinity outlook without the danger of sailing over the edge!  A huge plus in my book. 

The area around the pool is spacious with large sofas, and a bar. Opened only at the beginning of this month, for September there are some nice offers. Every Saturday and Sunday, enjoy a Splash & Nook a.k.a swim and buffet lunch at the Nook restaurant. And I can confirm the Nook serves excellent food! Or every day (until 15 September, so act fast) is Splash & Akua. Swim and enjoy a snack platter at the poolside. Since that latter offer runs until 7 pm, we can watch the lights come on over the city. 

Better still, once the Nilgiri Sky Lounge and restaurant comes on-line in early November it will be possible to take in the lights of the city for the whole evening. According to the blurb, this (indoor) rooftop bar will capture the essence of Kathmandu without losing the international vibe. Focus is on creating a cocktail culture in Kathmandu. Like the sound of that! For those with upcoming conferences, seminars, or weddings, there are three large comfortable event halls.

Aloft around the world is renowned for its technology: unlock your room with your phone or Apple watch or be served by a robot. Kathmandu is not quite ready for the bots but if you are a Marriott Bonvoy (loyalty card) member, you can use your mobile to unlock your door. In addition, Aloft Kathmandu Thamel has the fastest internet speed in town. 

Aiming at keeping their footprint low, Aloft is on its way to eliminate single use plastics such as shower toiletries. Currently they are working with Soap for Hope—an organization that collects leftover soap for recycling, and use Ma-Paani water throughout the hotel. Ma-Paani is the only bottled water brand in Nepal that is HACCP certified. I’m reliably told they are also sourcing organic vegetables and working with homestay owners as part of their socially conscious program. Aside from the fact this no doubt is ‘company policy’, the GM Vikram Singh has a true passion for Nepal, having worked here in the 2000s in Gokarna Forest Resort.  He says Aloft is a “casual 5 star with a Nepali soul”.

And long story short, yes, Kathmandu is ready for the next gen of hotels! Don’t believe me? Go see for yourself!

For further information and upcoming offers, please see their FaceBook or Instagram: Aloft Kathmandu Thamel. 

Over coffee this afternoon I and a few friends were having a laugh about the various Facebook groups that we are in. And those we have left because they just got too judgmental. One friend recalled a global yoga group. Discussion in this group devolved into a ‘shouting’ match between those in the East who said they were the originators of yoga and professed to belonging to a ‘pure’ form of the practice, and those in the West who thought their way of incorporating yoga into their busy lives, complete with designer yoga pants, was correct. As tempers rose and friction developed my friend realized that both East and West were dismissing with their rants the philosophy and five basic principles of yoga, which include relaxation and mediation.  

Another friend questioned the purpose of one of the local groups we are all in and which often sparks great debate over a whole range of subjects from animal rights, to where to buy the best organic vegetables. We recalled that the group is very entertaining; with one or two regular ‘contributors’ always having something to say about everyone’s post. And not necessarily positive.  At a time long ago the group moved far from its aim of providing information for those wishing to buy and sell around town. 

We also recalled another group where information is often sought from those visiting or newly arrived in Nepal. Questions of a legal nature often arise. To which most of us will give the correct and, as far as we know, legal response. But still the person posting the question will keep on eliciting responses until they get the one they want. Even if the majority insist that that response is incorrect. They just won’t listen to those with more experience.

Sitting at the table with us was a friend who is a psychologist and deals with young people who are so addicted to social media they barely live outside of their phones. For them these arguments on Facebook may seem innocuous, and a source factual information. And to some extent they are right. It is my opinion that the arguments and information on Facebook are a miniature reflection of what is going on in the world at the moment.

It seems the world is becoming like the yoga group. Instead of embracing our differences, countries seem to be becoming more insular and fail to recognize others’ point of view. Just like that local Facebook group. A few people around the world are loudly making their views heard and have something to say on every topic, regardless as to what it is. Then there are those who supply an abundance of ‘fake news’. And, my goodness, people believe this nonsense even when others, usually more qualified to explain the situation, say differently. It would appear people only want to believe their own truths and are unwilling to accept something they do not want to hear. 

Are we all like those teenagers sitting in front of a tiny screen, isolating ourselves from the rest of humanity? Are we convinced our beliefs are right and those of others are wrong? Do we all propagate ‘fake news’ either intentionally or because we have lost the ability to think for ourselves?

I was stunned this week to learn that Greta Thunberg, 16, who is my personal climate emergency hero, is subject to much hate—even from those who are in positions of authority and should know better. How far have we sunk when we raise up the chauvinistic and narrow-minded and caste dispersion on those (particularly young women) who should be celebrated?

I pray Greta is right when she says, “When haters go after your looks and differences, it means they have nowhere left to go. And then you know you’re winning!” Because the world needs a win right now.

PechaKucha or chit-chat in Jap­anese (ぺちゃくちゃ) is kind of a thinking person’s speed dat­ing. And like speed dating, you nev­er know what you are going to get! To elaborate, PechaKucha is a sto­rytelling platform where different presenters show 20 slides for 20 seconds each. Presenters then pro­vide the commentary as the slides automatically run alongside. Hence the format is also known as 20x20. Created in Tokyo in 2003, the orig­inal intention was to provide a fun, relaxed set-up to enable young designers and architects to meet, show their work and exchange cre­ativity. This idea took off and the following year many European cities started hosting PechaKucha Nights. Today, 1,135 cities around the world are involved.

 In March 2011 Kathmandu held its first PechaKucha (PKN) in what many of us call “the old” Attic Bar. Established by Sujan Chitrakar, head of the Center for Art and Design at Kathmandu University, and Chris Haughton, London based illustrator, today Chitrakar is joined by Bhushan Shilpakar as co-orga­nizer. But how did PechaKucha Night come about in Kathmandu? “The original idea of focus on art and design initially caught my interest. But here in Kathmandu we don’t just focus on the arts but also have presenters from many genres. PechaKucha has gone global but when we held the first PechaKucha, Kathmandu was the 375th partic­ipating city,” explains Chitrakar.

 Held every two or three months from 2011 to July 2015, when the organizers took a break, PKN returned with a bang to Kathman­du this March. Now preparing for Volume 17, I asked Chitrakar what were the most memorable pre­sentations for him so far. “With so many great presenters it would be biased of me to name just one or two. But the one that really stands out was during the very first PechaKucha in 2011. Ex-Kumari Rashmila Shakya gave a presen­tation about her life and the then newly published book based on her experiences called Immortal to Mortal,” says Chitrakar. “At that time we had approached different venues; the owners of the Attic were the only ones who were as excited as us. That first event, with great cooperation from the Attic, a huge audience, and a line-up head­ed by an ex-Kumari—it was more than memorable!”

 ntrance was minimal but now the door price is Rs 300. “Although everyone involved in PechaKucha is a volunteer and venues never charge for their premises we now need to send $1 per audience head to HQ in Tokyo. And we also need to hire the audio equipment etc,” explains Chitrakar. But despite the increased ticket price, the two events held this year have each attracted around 300 people. I noticed many artists, performers, activities, and students among the audience. “In South Asia PechaKu­cha has not really taken off, but in Kathmandu it is vibrant and active. Probably because we have a good audience and presenter flow; expats coming and going etc.” On the 20x20 theme I noticed that in other countries PechaKucha Nights start after 8pm. 2020hrs to be exact. I’m told, “8.20 pm would be rather late to start a program in Kathmandu, wouldn’t it?” Yes, indeed!

Future plans? “It would be pos­sible for other cities in Nepal orga­nize a PechaKucha Night. Pokhara would work well,” stated Chitrakar. “We could help them organize until they got onto their feet. As an orga­nizer it can be daunting. I always have a panic attack—speakers who cancel last minute—that kind of thing!”

PechaKucha Kathmandu, Vol­ume 17 will take place (so I am told) at the beginning of Septem­ber. Venue not confirmed yet. But gather up your friends and go along for a fun evening of presentations, food and drinks. You might learn something also.

 For further information see the PechaKucha Night Kathmandu FaceBook page

 In the time before we all had smart phones, photography was an art. Sure, we probably had small cameras. But we recognized that the ‘professionals’ had better equipment, and had the eye and patience to set up a photograph and get the lighting right. Care was tak­en in every shot, love was put into every print. I know quite a number of these old-school photographers. Colin Baxter, the renowned photographer of Scottish landscapes, did contract photography for the company I worked for in Scotland. That was in the days before his own love of land­scape and Scottish scenes grew into postcards, calendars, posters, and books for which he is now known around the world. Jill Gocher is a Bali-based Australian photographer. Having lived in Nepal in the early 2000s her passion then was Tibet and Tibetan faces. I have three of her photographs hanging on my wall. All featuring Tibetan nomads.

I just found out this month that the photographer, Iain Macmillian, who shot the cover of the famous Abby Road Beatles album, was from my hometown of Carnoustie, Scot­land. I didn’t know him but think that deserves a mention here! And there are the fantastic photogra­phers in Nepal. These include (late) Juju Bhai Dhakhwa whose work in the 1960s was mainly of friends, family and neighbors around his home in Nagbahal, Patan. A time capsule of life in that era. Then of course there is Mani Lama who has been a photographer in Nepal for more than 40 years and winner of various awards.

But it’s not these photographers I want to talk of today. I want to talk about YOU. You, the ‘professional’ (who is getting paid) and you, the wannabe professional, and you, the Facebook and Instagram posters. The photographers of the past, and those who still work with respect for the subject, are unobtrusive; know­ing the best shots are often candid. And with the knowledge they are there to record the fact, event or scene, do not prevent others from enjoying the same! The modern ‘photographer’ by contrast seems to think he has exclusive right to any event happening.

Yes, he (usually a he) has been paid by the organizer to take pho­tographs or film of the event. But in doing so he does not seem to apply any common sense and realize that while he is a paid part of the organiz­ing team, the audience has paid (or given their time) for the privilege to be there as a guest. What happened to the saying “guest is god”? As the guest, or audience, I have a really hard time understanding why the photographer/videographer needs to be right in front of the stage at all times.

Last year at an open air event in Boudha, at one point there were three film crews (I think local TV channels) ON the stage. At the same time! We the paying audience could not see the performers for the cam­eras! Why not, since you know you are going to be covering an event, check out the place beforehand and work out where you can get the best shots while not blocking what the audience has come to see. Which is definitely not you!

Then I come to Instagrammers. There are now at beauty spots around the world signs telling us where to stand for the best selfie. It’s hilarious that pictures of mar­vellous landscapes show nature at its best, while on the other side of the camera are dozens of wan­nabes waiting their turn. Or worse still, features are added. Look up Penataran Lempuyang (Gates of Heaven) Temple in Bali. No lake there. But mirror like water is add­ed, I assume on an app, to give the gates their supposedly more photogenic appearance.

So, in brief, because I could say more, be considerate when taking photographs and pleeeaase, ancient architecture needs no app to make it look stunning!

There are nine categories of endangerment from ‘extinct’ to ‘not evaluated’. The latter meaning there is no concern of endangerment. While this species is not yet on the ‘endangered’ list it appears to be very much on the ‘vulnerable’ list. We might ask ourselves when this species moved from being of no concern to being ‘vulnerable’. A quick Google check is quite an eye opener; for it all started in 2017 with a nine-year-old American boy!

Milo Cress, nine, started the cam­paign against… plastic straws! Since then many large companies and even major cities have banned this invasive species. July 2018 saw Seat­tle banning plastic straws and in January of this year Washington DC followed suit. With McDonalds, Starbucks and some airlines phasing plastic straws out, could its days be numbered?

More than a year ago I also took a stand and started requesting cafes not to give me a plastic straw. I brought from the UK packets of metal straws which I handed out to friends. At that time there were very few cafes in Kathmandu doing away with the multi-coloured, attractive, yet non-essential, plastic tubes. Since we like-minded friends all drink in Curilo Café, the wait­ress there was very quick to pick up on this and started offering the plastic straw alongside, not inside, drinks. You could then decline if you wanted to.

As far as I know Soma Café was the first to ban plastic straws altogether. Since then more and more cafes and restaurants around town are using paper or metal straws. This week I bought a drink from KFC and they provided a very clumsy paper straw. But paper nevertheless. Mankind has been using straws since around 3,000 BC. In Nepal tongba has always been served with bam­boo straws; I have yet to see it served with a plastic straw. So maybe the habit of using natural straws just needs to be reinstated.

I guess we have all seen the video of the rescued sea turtle that had a plastic straw pulled from its nose. I think that, along with numerous videos of islands of plastic floating on the world’s oceans, has really brought home how effective human­kind has become at destroying the planet. But with no ocean in Nepal, and with fires containing plastic burning pretty much 24/7 around town, why have we in Kathmandu simultaneously and without col­lusion decided to send the plastic straw into extinction?

It’s a question I don’t have the answer to. I know for me, I have reduced my use of plastic bags considerably but do still accept some. They, terrible as they are, have a reusable purpose as a gar­bage collector, a wet swimsuit bag, or container for potentially leaky items. But the plastic straw has no value whatsoever when its three minute life span is complete. Yet some people, children in particu­lar, do like the excitement of draw­ing a drink up through a tube. If you think back, wasn’t it only on special occasions you got a straw in your drink? Definitely a ‘good time’ apparatus!

Enter, or should I say, re-en­ter the paper straw! Paper straws have been around a long time but they used to instantly turn soggy. Or were chewed up by young kids within moments. But today the paper straw has becoming stronger and more viral!

Naturally, banning of plastic straws is not going to save the planet or reduce the ocean’s plastic islands. It is only the tip of the iceberg. But, since it seems mainly the younger generations that are killing off this species, maybe the plastic straw is the gateway to more personal, then community, then country-wide restrictions on single-use plastics. Let’s hope this vulnerable species continues its journey to endanger­ment then ultimately to extinction!