Resonance– Echoes of the Valley
Resonance, a satellite music event under the umbrella of Echoes of the Valley, takes Echoes out of the city to collaborate with communities who hold the belief that intangible heritage should be showcased as valid even today. Last Saturday, March 17, it was Banepa that vibrated with this Resonance. The day kicked off with a procession of bhajan and traditional dances through old Banepa town. Two stages were used throughout the day— at Teen Dhara Dabu and Thanpati Narayan Temple.
As the crowd wandered between the two venues they were invited to view an art exhibition at the Lokeshwor Temple and enjoy Newari food and “chang” (Newari rice beer). The crowd ebbed and flowed but at noon Earth’a caught the crowd with their blend of distinctive sounds and ideas. Then, running back up the hill to the temple, the crowd was treated to the sounds of the Percussion Ensemble from the Indian Culture Center before descending again to the dhara to witness the unique sounds of Marta del Grande from Italy. The crowd swelled to hear her influences of jazz through to electronics and were entranced when she performed with local musicians, and Indian Classical singer Chandresha Pandey. Ason Gunla Baja Khala then took the vibe back to its roots through Buddhist Newari devotional music.
By then the local crowd was committed and ready for the Word Warriors to perform their spoken word poetry in Newari, Nepali and English. Chandresha Pandey made a second appearance in Zeromile, with Ranzen providing electronic accompaniment. The beats and melodies were inspired by the classical tradition of India, with the temple setting elevating the experience.
By the time Mi Ku and Ma took to the stage the temple was atmospherically lit and the enthusiastic crowd was overflowing and jostling for space. Combining contemporary folk with witty poetry and sounds from sarangi to guitar, Mi Ku had the crowd swaying. Credit must go to Pushpa Palanchok, vocalist in both bands, for her sometimes comic, poetry, beautiful voice, and stage presence. It was a magical end to a wonderful day.
Echoes of the Valley and the Resonance Edition is an initiative of, and organized by, Kanta dAb dAb, in collaboration with Kutumba, Night, and the Banepa Institute of Music and Arts.
For information,
echoesinthevalley.com
From trollyes to trolls
There are rumors we might get a metro system or sky train in Kathmandu. Wouldn’t that be interesting? I think it is quite clear an underground metro would not be suitable in the unstable ground underneath a city that sits not only on a dried out lake, but a seismic fault. But a feasibility study has been done as to whether we might be able to install an electric skytrain. Off the top of my head the monorail/skytrain will run from Tilganga Eye Hospital to Shahid Gate and on to Koteshwor. But don’t quote me… I might be dreaming!What I didn’t imagine was an electric bus system, the trolleybus, which used to run various places around the city and its outskirts. In fact, on my first visit to Kathmandu in 1990 I rode that bus to Bhaktapur. And it ran through agriculture land and rice fields. (Next time I’m in Scotland I’ll look to see if I have any pictures from that trip.)
I also seem to recall a few years ago the trolleybus was reintroduced within the city. I know one of the routes ran up to the stadium. I’m sure it was challenging in those days to make anything electrical work well. So it’s interesting that the powers (sic) that be are contemplating using electricity again to operate a public transport system. Power aside, do we want to be sitting how many meters up in the air in a metal container if there is an earthquake? And, even those of you who think the earthquake is ‘done’, what about the disruption to traffic which this system will cause while it is being constructed? Does anyone know the reason the trolleybus system was ditched in the first place? It would be interesting to find out.
Most of us remember the road expansion project—indeed it is still going on. I live near Lazimpat and it took—what—three years to complete the enlargement of Lazimpat Road. The inconvenience, dust, and disruption to people’s lives was huge. Not to mention those who lost their livelihoods and homes because of it. Can we really go through more years of that?
I have also ridden the train out of Janakpur which meandered at snail’s pace through thatched roofed villages. Yes—there was a train! The only train in Nepal! Why did that close down? It certainly wasn’t for lack of customers. When I went on it, it was completely packed with villagers transporting goods from Jankapur back to their homes. Standing room only!
After visiting whichever village we went to, my friend and I decided to walk back to town as it was slightly faster than the train! I hear that the train service been opened again, and I did plan to visit the railway station when I was in Janakpur three months ago. But I failed to get to the station so I am none the wiser as to why it closed.
As road congestion becomes an increasing problem in Kathmandu, it is sensible to look at other alternatives. But how about the easy and considerably less expensive options first? Options such as proper bus lanes, expanding the Sajha Yatayat network, and how about carpooling? We all know carpooling can work here in Kathmandu as informal car (and bike) pooling was successfully set up by the Nepali youth during the blockade in 2015/16. A similar system could be introduced which requires, as in other countries, cars to contain more than just the driver at peak times. And of course parking facilities outside core city areas where people can then walk or take (especially provided) public transport to work would reduce vehicle numbers in the city center.
However, all of this could be just a dream…
Choking Kathmandu
As I write I look at the air quality app on my phone. It shows a reading taken at Phora Durbar at 10.25 am as ‘very unhealthy’ at 276 PM2.5. That purple band across my phone is enough to know it’s a bad day. These little pesky airborne particles that are smaller than the diameter of a human hair are impossible to see but are too easy to get into our mouths, noses, and ultimately, lungs. Leaving the science behind, what the purple band across my phone means is everyone, regardless of how fit, is at risk at that given time.
I take a quick look at Delhi—which is currently at 182 PM2.5 (unhealthy and red), switch over to Beijing, which reads 46 PM2.5 (good and green). What? Beijing is notorious for being extremely polluted and Beijing’s air today is ‘good’ and Kathmandu’s is ‘very unhealthy’? I’m rechecking on Beijing and come across a Reuters article from December 2017 which states “Beijing may have turned a corner in its battle against the city’s notorious smog”.
Although the article goes on to say the current winter climate has a lot to do with the lowering of pollution and Beijing certainly isn’t out of the woods yet, Reuters gives credit to the Chinese government for introducing tough anti-pollution measures. This is food for thought indeed. There are a number of individuals and organizations in Kathmandu that are working for better air quality, and they indeed have their work cut out. Let’s give them a hand when we can. And yes, while it’s hard for the average person to make a dent in air pollution, it is possible to take little steps such as not burning rubbish and not having bonfire parties.
Meantime, what can we do now for our own health?
I have a friend who sells special masks designed to filter out pollution. I personally wear one of those blue surgical masks. A recent remark by a doctor about the paper masks being a ‘placebo’ got me looking at research. Tests have been done and those blue paper masks come out pretty good (80 percent filtration). Not as good as masks especially designed for wearing in pollution (80 to 95 percent). Unfortunately the blue mask fails when you take into account it does let air in through the sides when worn by a human and not a test machine.
Hmm… guess we have to either buy a more expensive, firm fitting (hotter) mask, or hold down the sides of our masks when walking! I remember when it was only a few foreigners wearing masks and what strange looks we got. Now I see a large number of locals wearing a mask when going about their lives.
Putting the causes of pollution and the impact on health aside (as if we can really), the other sufferer here is Kathmandu herself. Remember how beautiful it was to look up at snow-mountains from almost any location in town, every day? From many viewpoints the foot hills and high mountains were spectacular in their respective greens and white. Many of us have flown into the valley and seen the crystal clear mountains and hills which take our breath away (in a good way).
We still get glimpses of course, after rain the sky of clear blue is a magnificent backdrop for the Himalayas, and during the Dashain holiday there is less traffic to pollute the skies. But on an ‘average’ day, not so much. And it impacts the global image of the country. For many tourists the name Kathmandu conjures up an image of a green valley, white peaks and wonderful heritage; how disappointed they must be when they arrive to smog, dust and dirt. Naturally when they go home, conversation will turn from their wonderful trek to the terrible air in Kathmandu…
Musicians raise suicide awareness
The Mental Health Promotion and Suicide Prevention Center (MHPSP) has been working to raise mental health awareness among students and teachers. According to MHPSP, 13 to 14 people commit suicide every day in Nepal. With many people lacking access to psychiatric care, MHPSP is looking to establish a toll-free suicide helpline by collaborating with the Ministry of Health.
As part of an awareness raising program, musicians came together with the MHPSP in a fundraising event held in Tangalwood on March 3. Among the performers were Mental Radio, a band started with the express intent of raising awareness on mental health. The Elements, Joint Family International, 1974 AD, and a contemporary singer-songwriter from Iceland, Högni Egilsson, also performed.
Joint Family International had the crowd dancing to reggae beats but when the final band came on stage the audience really came to life. 1974 AD did not disappoint and gave a wonderful performance.
For more information about MHPSPC, contact the organization on 01-4411264.
Celebrating vaginas
We have just celebrated International Woman’s Day and by coincidence, in the same week, I watched a film about the American Suffragette Movement, followed closely on HBO by another film on the Civil Rights Movement. Into the whole ‘rights’ package of the first week in March, add the Human Rights Film Festival and the Vagina Monologues, both held in the Nepal Tourism Board Hall. While it’s great to celebrate the achievements of women, why in 2018 do we have a world where the rights of women, indigenous peoples, religious minorities and those with certain skin color are still an issue? Will we ever reach a point when everyone is equal? Until women stop bitching about other women, until the privileged stop looking down on those who are worse off than themselves, until men start really standing up for females, and until men “get over themselves”, I fear the answer to that question is ‘NO’.
Wow! This column got serious fast. So let’s get back to vaginas…
Written in the mid-1990s by Eve Ensler, the Vagina Monologues is an episodic play looking at consensual and non-consensual sexual experiences, body image, genital mutilations, reproduction, sex work, etc. Oh, that doesn’t sound sexy at all—that sounds as if, as Ensler says, “women’s empowerment is deeply connected to their sexuality”. Ensler also says “I’m obsessed with women being violated and raped, and with incest. All of these things are deeply connected to our vaginas.” These thoughts prompted her to interview hundreds of women, out of which a play was born. Ensler found out quickly that a play could be more than a staging of drama, it could be a global call to action.
I first saw the play around the mid-2000s in Kathmandu. I found it quite shocking to hear these conversations take place on the stage of the City Hall. During that performance several people walked out and I thought “this is too much, too soon for Nepal”. Ten plus years later the Vagina Monologues reappeared, and I think now the time is right. Women and men are more aware, and vocal and angry about physical and sexual abuse against women and girls. And, just so you know, name calling and discussing sexual intent with someone who is not interested is also sexual abuse.
I think back to Lainchour in the monsoon and a young guy on a scooter who was spouting terrible expletives in English as I walked through the evening rain. Since telling him to “F” off wasn’t working, I chose to ignore him. Nothing he was saying was new to this woman: isn’t that fact alone very sad? He disappeared and a few minutes later someone grabbed my arm. Turning, I found a young Nepali girl of around 20 holding onto me for dear life. He had directed his nasty, verbal sexual abuse at her. For her, his obscene words were something unheard before and had affected her deeply.
Sobbing and shaking, she tried to explain to people waiting at a bus stop, but they merely looked shocked and helpless. I walked with her and offered to put her in a cab. She refused…probably thinking how she would explain arriving home by taxi. I knew she was not going to tell her parents about this incident. Why? Because it is always the woman’s fault—in this case she was out at 7pm. 7pm! No, not the man’s fault, says society, but her fault.
Today the Vagina Monologues are making young women in Kathmandu think and take a stand against sexual abuse. Sexual and physical abuse of women and girls is not new of course. But what is new is that women are shouting “Enough!” Encouraged by those in Hollywood and the sports arena, women and girls all over the world are finally speaking up for themselves and for their vaginas.
A cabaret of talent
Over two recent weekends Kathmandu saw its first and fabulous cabaret. Featuring dance, music, mime, and one-act plays it prompted me to think about all the wonderful art and cultural events that happen here. I think many people do not realize just how talented the Nepalis are as a nation. With an ancient tradition of wood and stone carving, thanka and religious paintings, architecture, bronzes, pottery etc, Nepal, and particularly, Kathmandu Valley, is a place with art and culture in its blood.
It’s no surprise then that there is so much talent among the youth as well. Art, music, drama, to name just a few, are not only vibrant but positively electric. I can say, and frequently do say, I am not an artiste (no talent, sob!). But I am what every artiste needs, the audience. And at that I am extremely experienced and talented!
Having said that, however, it can be so hard to keep up with all the social events happening around town. Maybe I should become a critic of the arts and actually get paid to attend events. Now there’s a thought! I love to attend the theater and was really disappointed when my favorite, and ‘father’ of modern theatre in Nepal, Gurukul, had to give up its premises some years ago.
Meantime, Mandala, Shilpee and a few others are still going and have opened their doors to other groups to use their premises. While most of the theater groups produce in Nepali, there are one or two who do produce in English. But there is something refreshing about the audiences who go along to the Nepali productions.
They are, in general, young and enthusiastic with no pretentious intentions we often see at the theaters in the West. They are there purely because they enjoy it. My level of understanding varies depending on the difficulty of the subject matter but regardless as to how much information I gain through my ears, the acting is of such a high standard, my eyes provide enough information to keep me engaged!
Sometimes there are stunning performances and theater events, such as ‘Arjuna’s Dilemma’ staged at Patan Museum, a collaboration of actors, musicians, dancers and opera singers from Nepal, US and Europe. Based on a text from the Bhagavad Gita this production was the first opera in Nepal and outdid itself visually and musically.
In the past Gurukul was host to an annual International Theater Festival with theatre groups coming from all around the globe. More local productions I have loved include an interesting adaptation of ‘Swan Lake’, and one where a character zip-lined above the audience in a replica ropeway crossing the Karnali River.
Painting and installation art is another genre populated by very talented artists, and whether it is images of landscapes, portraits, or more contemporary styles such as a huge red rectangle painted onto the buildings of Kirtipur, there are frequent exhibition openings happening around town. One of my favorites has come firmly onto the Kathmandu scene after a bit of a rocky start—street art.
A few years ago Color Kathmandu took to the streets with dozens of local and international street artists and created murals to represent the 75 districts of the country. These beautiful works were somehow not very popular with the authorities that took a dim view of street art appearing overnight on public buildings. Thankfully, with two embassies entering into the spirit of brightening up the city streets, the local authorities have accepted that street art can be beautiful, enlightening, and educational.
Festivals celebrating art such as Photo Kathmandu, Kathmandu Triennial, and the International Tattoo Convention, cover more styles that I can fit in this short column. But you get the idea. So much talent, not enough time to enjoy it all! And then there is the music scene in Kathmandu, which must, I feel, wait for another week to write about…
A cabaret of talent
Over two recent weekends Kathmandu saw its first and fabulous cabaret. Featuring dance, music, mime, and one-act plays it prompted me to think about all the wonderful art and cultural events that happen here. I think many people do not realize just how talented the Nepalis are as a nation. With an ancient tradition of wood and stone carving, thanka and religious paintings, architecture, bronzes, pottery etc, Nepal, and particularly, Kathmandu Valley, is a place with art and culture in its blood.
It’s no surprise then that there is so much talent among the youth as well. Art, music, drama, to name just a few, are not only vibrant but positively electric. I can say, and frequently do say, I am not an artiste (no talent, sob!). But I am what every artiste needs, the audience. And at that I am extremely experienced and talented!
Having said that, however, it can be so hard to keep up with all the social events happening around town. Maybe I should become a critic of the arts and actually get paid to attend events. Now there’s a thought! I love to attend the theater and was really disappointed when my favorite, and ‘father’ of modern theatre in Nepal, Gurukul, had to give up its premises some years ago.
Meantime, Mandala, Shilpee and a few others are still going and have opened their doors to other groups to use their premises. While most of the theater groups produce in Nepali, there are one or two who do produce in English. But there is something refreshing about the audiences who go along to the Nepali productions.
They are, in general, young and enthusiastic with no pretentious intentions we often see at the theaters in the West. They are there purely because they enjoy it. My level of understanding varies depending on the difficulty of the subject matter but regardless as to how much information I gain through my ears, the acting is of such a high standard, my eyes provide enough information to keep me engaged!
Sometimes there are stunning performances and theater events, such as ‘Arjuna’s Dilemma’ staged at Patan Museum, a collaboration of actors, musicians, dancers and opera singers from Nepal, US and Europe. Based on a text from the Bhagavad Gita this production was the first opera in Nepal and outdid itself visually and musically.
In the past Gurukul was host to an annual International Theater Festival with theatre groups coming from all around the globe. More local productions I have loved include an interesting adaptation of ‘Swan Lake’, and one where a character zip-lined above the audience in a replica ropeway crossing the Karnali River.
Painting and installation art is another genre populated by very talented artists, and whether it is images of landscapes, portraits, or more contemporary styles such as a huge red rectangle painted onto the buildings of Kirtipur, there are frequent exhibition openings happening around town. One of my favorites has come firmly onto the Kathmandu scene after a bit of a rocky start—street art.
A few years ago Color Kathmandu took to the streets with dozens of local and international street artists and created murals to represent the 75 districts of the country. These beautiful works were somehow not very popular with the authorities that took a dim view of street art appearing overnight on public buildings. Thankfully, with two embassies entering into the spirit of brightening up the city streets, the local authorities have accepted that street art can be beautiful, enlightening, and educational.
Festivals celebrating art such as Photo Kathmandu, Kathmandu Triennial, and the International Tattoo Convention, cover more styles that I can fit in this short column. But you get the idea. So much talent, not enough time to enjoy it all! And then there is the music scene in Kathmandu, which must, I feel, wait for another week to write about…
Taxi woes
There are basically three types of taxi drivers in Kathmandu—the silent type, the chatty type, and the ‘let me get as much money as possible from you’ type. That’s not to say the silent and chatty types are not trying to increase their earnings. In fact the chatty type may get a tip just because he is so engaging while stuck in a jam. On other days I’m less inclined to answer the standard questions about my place of origin, marriage status and place of work. Nor I am really wanting to take the guy to my country to drive the car that he believes I have there.
On the days when I am quite happy to reply to the questions, the answers may vary slightly depending on the (perceived) character of the driver. But I always have a (fictional) husband waiting at home and two children (one of each) either here, or at university in Britain or off travelling the world. Some days I work for an NGO, other days I am a trainer, or a housewife.
Meantime, the driver who is trying to get more money out of me is out of luck! Having lived here before many of the drivers were old enough to reach the pedals, I know the approximate (and sometimes the exact) cost from A to B. And I know the shortcuts.
But give credit where credit is due: I have never had a Kathmandu taxi driver try to take me the long way round in order to increase the amount on the meter.
I remember a time when it was really hard to get a taxi, because there just wasn’t the same number on the road. And those that were available were horrible old cars that had no suspension and were built for midgets. You know the ones—those that were eventually sent off to do the airport run. Tall tourists with huge backpacks or suitcases squeezing into those oddly narrow vehicles. What an introduction to the country!
Yellow and black ones
Thankfully the taxis on offer at the airport are now much more comfortable and the pre-paid ticket takes the strain out of communication for arriving tourists. Meantime, while we are reminiscing, do you remember auto-rickshaws? Those yellow and black ones. Nostalgia! In fact I was quite upset when auto-rickshaws were removed from the streets of Kathmandu because they were so much cheaper than taxis—it cost me Rs 11 to ride from my apartment to Lazimpat (a 15-minute walk). And they were quite fun to ride in as they zipped through the traffic and down small roads which should really be gullies. It made you feel like you really were in a different place!
On the other hand, the brand new cabs have heaters for those cold nights. Which can, if you shut your eyes, make you feel like you are indeed in a different time and place.
Finally, the silent type. While it’s nice after a hard day to drive in silence (maybe some Bollywood on the radio), those silent types can be a little creepy. They don’t respond to a cheery “Namaste”, seem unimpressed by your thorough knowledge of the road or your limited Nepali language skills. Hopefully they are just concentrating on the road, and not burdened by a personal problem which might make them less than reliable drivers. Or, even worse, fingers crossed they are not some psycho madman.
The latter thought only seems to strike when it’s late at night and seems to grow along with the silence. I know Nepali friends who take down the number of the cab to text home before getting in. But, realistically, who am I going to text? I never get those silent types to drive me right up to my door but ask them to stop a bit down the road. The local dogs then offer their friendly faces and escort me home. In the morning of course it all seems so silly—until the next silent taxi driver.
I believe there is now the equivalent of Uber in Nepal. Having never taken Uber I have no idea how this works. But I am reliably told the idea here is that you call, and they turn up. Interesting! How on earth do they find my house? And is that really easier than me walking to the chowk? Which brings me to the question of street names and house numbers, or lack thereof…
Jackie adds a Scottish flavor and an expat take to her column—sometimes with a twist of sarcasm
