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This Saturday female-headed bands including Nattu with 11.11 NST, Mental Radio, Space, Faithom, and Somiya Baraily are coming together to celebrate women. The Butterfly Effect, organized by Sangeet Pathshala in association with Dristi Nepal, is bringing together musi­cians, celebrities, key personnel, and the general public to celebrate women and raise awareness to end gender-based violence. “With so much press about violence against women and children and with the #MeToo and #HearMeToo campaigns we felt the time was right to hold such an event,” explains Bijay Khadka, founder of Sangeet Pathshala. “We do this out of respect for women and children,” he says.

The concert will also feature Samriddhi Rai, Didi Bahini, and Superfuzz, and is the celebration phase of a bigger project to raise awareness through the contribu­tions of celebrated figures from different sectors, and, post-event, to bring skills development to women in need through the management of Dristi Nepal, an NGO working with women affected by the use of drugs and HIV/AIDS.

Aside from great music, the whole event will be inclusive and fun! The audi­ence can participate by dropping their suggestions for anti-violence against women slogans (via Sangeet Pathsha­la’s FB page). The winners will have their slogans printed on tote bags and receive gift hampers. Hampers will also be distributed on the day to lucky mem­bers of the audience. But you have to be there to win! Other souvenirs to take home include a photo booth set up to take selfies. And if you want something more permanent, Inkasm will be offering small, female-power inspired tattoos at the event, and for a few days after, for Rs 3,000. Profits from the tattoos will be given to Dristi Nepal.

The event at Tangalwood, Kathmandu, from from 3 pm onward, is free. Sup­ported by the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC) and the Aids Healthcare Foundation (AHF Nepal), The Annapurna Express is the media partner for the event and proudly supports gen­der equality and equity.

 “… Kathmandu is Shangri-la… you’re going to find everything you need there,” Paulo Coelho

Last week I was at a memorial gathering for Jan Salter who died earlier this year. Jan was famous for her paintings (Faces of Nepal) and for being the founder of the Kathmandu Animal Treatment Center (KAT). But before that Jan was an adventurous traveler, what we would now describe as a hippie! Over wine and candlelight we reminisced how she told us of her travels through South East Asia, in the 1960s I believe, in the days of conflict, dubious border crossings, and definitely no tourists!

This brought to mind a book I have just read… Paulo Coelho’s new work Hippie is a biographical tale, taking place in 1970, before Coelho became a writer, although his budding passion as a ‘mystic seeker’ is very clear.  In the book, he describes the people, the hippies, who join him on the Magic Bus which travelled overland from Europe to Kathmandu via Eastern Europe, Istanbul, Tehran, and Baghdad. 

When I first came to Nepal, this overland route was still open, albeit in much more comfortable buses than the Magic Bus (an old school bus with static seats). Those buses would occasionally call into Bardia (where I was living at the time) and could be seen parked in hotels in Thamel. I’m not sure exactly when these overland buses stopped running: either politics got in the way, or it was too dangerous to drive through conflict zones.   Which is a shame, because I think I would love to do this now!

Perhaps the average person in the West has lost the ability to feel what those hippies and spiritualists like Coelho and Namnik felt?

Which leads me back to those ‘old’ friends of Jan living in Kathmandu. Wouldn’t it be fascinating to find out who came across land? (Please tell us!) Air travel at that time was, of course, only for the wealthy as plane tickets were expensive. Thus, the cheap overland option would have been very attractive. According to Coelho it cost $70 from Amsterdam to Kathmandu. I can’t even fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara for that price now. Despite air travel being ‘affordable’ for the masses!

Unfortunately the Shangri-la described by Coelho no longer exists. Or doesn’t it? Perhaps it’s just taken a different, harder-to-find format. Last month I watched an Avenues TV interview with Lotan Namnik, a Tibetan musician here to take part in the film ‘Dakini’ with Bhutanese film maker/writer Khyentse Norbu (Rinpoche Dzongsar Jamyang Kheyntse). Namnik is of the opinion that Nepal is still a magical, spiritual place with friendly, kind, peaceful, and grounded people. 

Serenity, calmness, and a rejection of haste, he stated, is part of the people’s make up, and is something other countries don’t have. I think that those who identify as either an original hippie or post-hippie era ‘hippie’ can agree with this to some extent. But is it getting harder to see past the bright lights of consumerism and the fast-forward towards infrastructure development, to the things that attracted them here in the first place? I also believe that, for some years now, Westerners newly arrived for extended stays often fail to see the beauty underneath the dust and cut their stay short, leaving disappointed that Shangri-la could not be found. In Kathmandu at least. 

Perhaps the average person in the West has lost the ability to feel what those hippies and spiritualists like Coelho and Namnik felt? Or is it the fact we can now be in Amsterdam, London or New York in the morning, and reach Kathmandu the same evening? Completely bypassing the mystical transition from one culture to another as we pass through the physical transit of generic airports. I wonder what those hippie travelers of the 1970’s would make of Kathmandu today! Would they be able to find Shangri-la?   

‘Hippie’ will be available in Nepali from Bookworm early 2019

Nepal has an abundance of fabulous festivals and here is one more for the celebration calendar. And even if you are not celebrating Christmas, Christmas markets act as a one-stop-shop for gift-hunters!  Not only a big shopping opportunity, these markets are great social events to mingle with people from all walks of life. The markets mentioned here are not the only ones in town so check out venues near you!

The GIZ Christmas Bazaar offers an opportunity to purchase goods from fair trade vendors

 The Kathmandu Chorale host their annual Holiday Concert on Dec 8, Saturday

Awon Christmas Bazaar

This is among the pioneers of Christmas markets in Kathmandu. AWON, or Active Women of Nepal, is a non-profit organisation that aims to make a difference in the lives of disadvantaged women and children.  This year sees the Awon Christmas Bazaar head to a new venue. Over the years, as new markets joined the Christmas calendar, the AWON Bazaar lost some of its sparkle. So let’s see whether the new location can bring life back into this long-established event.

What to expect: Goods on display include a range of items mainly from not-for-profit vendors. Food stalls have been a feature in the past.

The details: Saturday Dec 1, 10am to 5pm, Soaltee Crown Plaza. Rs100 for adults, Rs50 for children.

GIZ Fair Trade Christmas Bazaar

GIZ is a German INGO which has been working in Nepal since 1974 in more than 60 districts. The GIZ Fair Trade Christmas Bazaar offers an opportunity to purchase goods from fair trade vendors—from Christmas decorations to items for children and the home. 

What to expect: Artisans will be on hand with live demonstrations to inform and entertain the whole family. Children will have the opportunity to block print their own Christmas cards. The International Club offers room for children to run around and food, including Gluhwein (hot, spiced wine) and German delicacies, will be available.

The details: Saturday Dec 1, 11am to 5pm, at the International Club, Sanepa. Entrance free.

Summit Hotel Christmas Bazaar

This is another pioneer of the Christmas market scene in Kathmandu. And perhaps it offers the most in terms of Christmas ambiance. Again, the vast majority of goods on sale are from non-profit vendors but there is a wide range of other goods such as silver jewellery, face and body products, pashminas etc as well. 

What to expect: Come in daylight hours when it’s warmer or come after dark when the twinkling lights and the sound of the Kathmandu Choral singing fills the air. There are dozens of stalls selling everything one could want to make Christmas special, including authentic Christmas cake. Plenty of food and drink is available in the garden, or take advantage of the hotel’s warm bar and restaurant.

The details:  Sunday Dec 9, noon to 8pm at the Summit Hotel, Sanepa. Free entrance.

Ecole Française International de Katmandou (the French School)

This is the first time the French School will be hosting a Christmas market, so here is an opportunity for those of us who have not been there to take a look around their green environment! As the school is focused on French education in Nepal, they have brought a French theme to Christmas with a host of French vendors, shops, artists, and restaurants.

What to expect: French and local produce, including gifts, children’s toys, jewellery, leather craft, etc.  To keep the children occupied there will be face painting, bouncy castle, and other activities and games. Food and drink will have a French theme and includes a barbeque and French Himalayan cheeses, including Raclette (hot melted cheese).

The details: Saturday Dec 1, 10am to 4pm at the school premises, Lazimpat.  Free entrance.

Le Sherpa

While not a Christmas market as such, Le Sherpa will add additional Christmas themed gift stalls to their usual Saturday market.

What to expect: In addition to fresh produce, there will be Christmas themed stalls and goodies. Plenty of space for children to run around in and if it all becomes too much, parents can always escape to Le Sherpa restaurant for brunch.

The details: Saturday Dec 1, 8 and 15, 8.30am till 12.30pm, Le Sherpa premises, Panipokhari. Free entrance.

The Local Project

Bringing together local artisans The Local Project is hosting three Christmas Markets at different locations.

What to expect: Beautifully crafted and unique gifts all made in Nepal.

The details: Friday Nov 30, 6 to 10pm, at Evoke; Saturday Dec 8, 2 to 6pm at Moksh; Saturday Dec 15, 4 to 8pm at Basecamp.  Free entrance.

Festivals also Need Music!

Where and When: The Kathmandu Chorale will be hosting their annual Holiday Concert on Saturday Dec 8, at the British School at 3pm and 6pm. Free admission, charity donations welcome. 

Christmas Treats!

What’s a festival without some yummy treats? Check out the Annapurna Hotel, Shangri-la Hotel and the Radisson Hotel cake shops for Christmas inspired cookies and cakes. Lakuri Bakery (Soma Café, Baluwatar) will once again be making their Christmas cupcakes, chocolate Yule logs and iced Christmas cookies. Meanwhile, Hermans Bakery (Sanepa) will be baking Christmas inspired goodies; as will bakeries in your neighbourhood!

Merry Christmas!

I’ve just wasted an hour trying to convince people in a backpacking Facebook group that the Himala­yas ain’t no walk in the park. But have you noticed the majority of young, on-a-shoestring trekkers feel it’s not only perfectly safe, but part of the ‘experience’ to trek alone? Their come-back is pretty much that they should not have their trip spoilt by taking others along with them. Usually in these cases I suggest to at least take a porter—someone who knows the route, can predict (as far as possible) weather conditions, can go for help if necessary, and—here is a unique thought—whose income will go to support his family. But no; dare we use the word, millennials are not for this. And this is hardly countered by the trekking fraternity here who keep any accidents, missing per­sons, etc pretty much under wraps. I doubt very much, unless it’s some­one from their own hometown, very few people outside of Nepal hear about these incidents. Accidents and deaths while summiting Everest or other 8,000-ers are a different matter of course. These are usually widely known because the climb­ing community is small and often victims or their climb leaders are well-known. And then those back­packers turn round and say that mountaineering is a whole different ball game.

But gung-ho trekkers forget that mountaineers have prepared well, have climbed other high mountains and are generally in great shape with great support teams and equip­ment. Yet climbers understand the real dangers that mountains’ pose. Meantime, backpackers swap their flip-flops for trekking boots in Thamel and imagine that Himalayan trekking routes are very much like the mountain trails they have at home.

But even so; let’s take a quick look at the highest ‘mountain’ in the UK, Ben Nevis, situated in Scotland. Ben Nevis is—okay don’t laugh—1,345m in height. It takes approximately 3.5 to 5 hours to summit, and sees about 150,000 hikers every year. But Ben Nevis is a very fickle moun­tain where the weather closes in at exceptional speed. The mountain rescue people report that in 2017 they responded to 78 call outs and rescued 82 people. In 2016 they report 20 people died on the moun­tain. And that is with the hiking season of June to October.

So given this bit of a hill, less high than Kathmandu, sees this many deaths a year even with the excellent helicopter and dog rescue teams always on standby, what makes people think they can happily trek 4,000 or 5,000 metres in the Hima­layas without the mountains occa­sionally fighting back?

Gung-ho trekkers forget that mountaineers have prepared well, have climbed other high mountains and are generally in great shape

Are we in Nepal promoting trek­king as an easy thing? Something that anyone and everyone can do, and enjoy without much thought, planning or, potentially, negative outcome? If you go with an experi­enced trekking company or guide and know your own body’s limita­tions there is no reason why your trek shouldn’t be safe and enjoyable. But if you take a look at the trek­king websites, in order not to scare potential customers off, I feel a lot of less reputable agencies down-play how arduous trekking can be. And stretching the truth aside, let’s not forget what is an ‘easy’ or ‘moder­ate’ trek for your average mountain dweller or trekking guide is far from easy or moderate for your average office worker on their two week annual leave!

Then there is whole giving back to the local community angle. It doesn’t take a lot for tourists to work out that most of the trekking companies are Kathmandu based and the majority of the money does not go to communities they are trekking through, especially if it is a camping trek. So for some, this is another reason not to go with a registered agency or guide. The on-going question is how to address these issues. Trekking people, répondez s’il vous plait.

Phosphene: A phenomenon characterized by the experi­ence of seeing light without light actually being presentSomehow I kept hearing sound bites of the Phosphenes at various venues around town. But I had never been able to catch their whole set until recently. Having seen some­thing about them I was not sur­prised, unlike my friend who joined me, when the audience sat down on the floor in front of the stage ready to enjoy the night. “Why are they sitting?” my friend asked. I feel she thought she was coming to see a rock cover band. Well the Phosphenes are far from that, which is why I want­ed to find out more about the four young people and their music.

It turns out it is not as easy as you might think to pin down their style! “We listen to different art­ists and get inspired—we are jazzy but not exactly jazz, more jazz/pop kind of. We are experimenting with different genres—electronic, indie, psychedelic,” explains Abhishek Pokhrel (vocals and guitar). “We used to define ourselves as an indie band, but if we have to describe ourselves today we would say we are more experimental singer/song­writer stuff,’ says Karna (guitar and electronics).

“Not exactly,” chimes in Pokhrel, “our inspiration comes from the Beatles because they went through many genres and that is what we are doing: exploring. That’s how we are learning. Aside from the Beatles our influences are Damien Rice and Nick Drake, among others. Possibly because we all come from different streams of music. Mine is classical, Prajwal (Aryal, vocal and guitar) is from a metal band…”

“And I don’t have any formal music education. I have just been playing for a long time through what I see and hear,” laughs Karna. And so the conversation continued, but two things they all did agree on: that music comes from the heart. And the fact that writing in English is easier than writing in Nepali.

So why is that? “We grew up listen­ing to English so we are more famil­iar with that language, even although we talk in Nepali to each other,” says Pokhrel. “We are picky about finding the right word in Nepali,” continues Supriya Moktan, vocals and key­board. “We are being asked to write in Nepali, because that is needed to market our music to the Nepali audience. I have been pushing them (Aryal and Pokhrel) to write Nepali songs so we can then travel round Nepal and maybe also attract the overseas diaspora. Within Nepal, it’s easier to market Nepali songs than English ones,” explains Karna. “But everyone can connect with our songs because of the fact they are in English,” comments Pokhrel. “Yes, we tried to write in Nepali but it didn’t work,” laughs Moktan. Again a gentle, light-hearted disagreement takes place.

I asked if, at the moment, they had any regular gigs. I was told that their music is considered a bit too ‘different’ by venue owners. They feel venues place less value on orig­inal music than on covers. Having been together in the current format since 2016, the Phosphenes, along with a small group of upcoming bands, such as Kta Haru and Pahenlo Batti Muni, are now taking matters into their own hands, and are start­ing a movement towards original music. Something is in the air—per­haps some unique gigs with these bands to counter what they feel is an unhealthy market, against bands who play originals. Until then, what they wish for is that venue owners realise how much work goes into song writing and up their appreci­ation. Much like that of their audi­ence, the core of whom are long term fans who have been very supportive of the band since the beginning. In short, this is definitely a band worth watching. Preferably live.

The Phosphenes’ music can also be found on iTunes, Spotify and YouTube.

Print and social media are flooded with news of the international and local artists who are congregat­ing in Kathmandu this week for Nepal’s own jazz festival. We are all excited to see on stage artists coming from around the world. But what about those working in the background? As the audience we rarely acknowledge the technicians, so let’s address this now. I first met Daniel (Danlo) Laurent in 2014 when I myself was one of those invisible vol­unteers helping Jazzmandu run smoothly. Born in Swit­zerland, Laurent studied elec­tronics and music, beginning his career in small clubs and recording rock bands. Accord­ing to him, life was intense then: handling the sound at big festivals, and for interna­tional bands on tour. Aside from work, philosophy and travel are his passions. So per­haps these, and his love of Asia, drew him to Jazzmandu, where he has been the main sound technician for the past nine years. Like me, he saw an advert for volunteers and thought it would be ‘interest­ing’. Unlike me, what Laurent brings to the table is three decades of experience, in 40 countries, recording over 150 albums, having his own recording studios, and work­ing at such festivals as Cully Jazz and Montreux Jazz.

How does Jazzmandu com­pare to the likes of these Euro­pean festivals? “Jazzmandu is unique because it is more than a jazz festival: it is a state of mind with energies that cannot be found anywhere else. The artists are gener­ally very touched by their participation for that reason. It took me a while to under­stand how things work in Nepal, but little by little things dropped into place and I feel we can be satisfied with the progress the festival has made over the years.”

Why, after so many years, is he still drawn to Nepal? Laurent replies, “Coming to Nepal and Jazzmandu is a human adventure which I would like to continue for the foreseeable future. And, there are still things I would like to see improved so that this festival can grow and evolve even more. I remember my very first day at Jazzmandu; actually there are so many memorable moments from the past years. Crazy jam ses­sions at Gokarna, intense and magical moments at Kantipur Temple House… too many to mention,” he laughs.

And what about those tense moments when things go wrong? “Of course we have faced hardships. The most radical were those long power cuts. Now everything is on battery. Overall, my main fear is communication problems between the stage and the control room. My wish? If I could have one, it would be for me to give back to Nepal as much as Nepal has given me in terms of inspiration and joy.” And what does he look forward to the most this year? “If I have to say just one thing, I would say the audience reac­tion—here are always so warm and appreciative,” he reflects.

Jazzmandu is spread over many venues and obviously each must have its own chal­lenges. “Yes, each place has its own particular identity. The main challenge is to guarantee a linear and homogeneous sound to all the audience, regardless of where they are sitting. I would say Kantipur Temple Hotel is one of the most interesting because it is possible to mix natural and amplified sounds. The most difficult is probably the Yak and Yeti Hotel because of the sound reflection on the buildings at the side of the stage. Overall, in each venue, I would love a little more time to get things right; to improve the monitoring manage­ment of the sound on stage,” answers Laurent.

So this year, when you go along to Jazzmandu, look out for the guy behind the sound­board with the look of high concentration on his face. Without him those on the stage would be mere shadows of their talented selves!

Jazzmandu runs from November 1-6 at different ven­ues around the valley.

Anyway, moving on from Dashain… I love Tihar! For an expat living in Nepal (other than those married to locals or having close family ties here), Tihar is something we can celebrate by our­selves. Even without going out of your own home you automatically become involved when the bhailo deusi singers come around. Tradi­tionally a few handfuls of rice, some sel roti and a few pennies perhaps, displayed lovingly on a nanglo with a butter lamp and flowers for deco­ration, were handed out to the sing­ers. Now this is frowned on by the groups of youths with their portable loud (loud!) speakers and modern as well as classical numbers!

They want money, and not just a few pennies! It is, however, all good fun and after you have dealt with the local youth group, the local children, and the local wom­an’s group, you can always switch off your lights and pretend you are not at home. Remember to put in your ear plugs! For readers who are newly arrived in Nepal, be pre­pared—have sufficient small notes for the little children who will come around, or shyly be singing and dancing in the street. Sweets won’t be refused either.

Have larger notes for the ‘main’ groups from your area. And don’t forget to enjoy the spectacle. While not akin to Halloween, remember back to when you were small and the fun you had going from door to door and how hopeful you were that you would get some goodies? Bhailo deusi singers are hopeful too!

I’ve been here long enough that I put my own lamps on the veranda and open my door to let Laxmi in. My first Tihar in Kathmandu was at the late Jan Salter’s house, and she, using traditional oil lamps, set a precedent for me. I might not use oil lamps, but I make sure, even if I go out for the evening, the lamps (candles in little clay pots) are lit on my return.

Being that my ‘Nepali family’ are Buddhist, they don’t celebrate Tihar at home so we usually go out to the ‘Garden of Dreams’ on Laxmi Puja where we can enjoy the whole garden being a blaze of light and the children can play on the ping (festival swing) that is installed for the period. Most likely we will head over to ‘Fire and Ice’ for what has become our ‘traditional’ Tihar food. Well, pizzas are round aren’t they, just like sel!

Speaking of food, hard on the heels of Tihar comes Chhat which is celebrated in the Eastern Tarai, particularly around Janakpur. Chhat celebrates the sun god, Surya, who is welcomed by worshipers who gather by the many ponds to greet the sunrise. Like all festi­vals, Chhat has its speciality food. My first trip to Janakpur took place during Chhat some 15 years ago. I was introduced then to delicacies such as anarsa (similar to a donut), curryburry (little balls of spiced masuri dal), and rashiyaw (rice based sweet dish of coconut, dried dates and ginger). Oh my mouth is watering now. So maybe this year after lighting the Tihar lamps I will head on down to Janakpur to wel­come the sun and eat some tasty homemade food! o

 While we in Kathmandu are lucky to have the likes of the Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival (KIMFF), Film South Asia, and a host of for­eign language film festivals, what we do miss are mainstream and art house English language films. Brit­ish films in particular. While the American superhero movies are all very entertaining, they lack a certain through-provoking quality for those who want a bit more than just an hour and a half of swashbuckling adventure.

 ‘That Good Night’ ticks all the boxes: entertaining, yes definitely; thought provoking, yes, we will talk about this movie for weeks; great actors, some might argue one of best actors ever, and certainly time well spent.

The basic story line of That Good Night is one of a 70-plus-year-old suffering from a terminal illness. Before he dies he has two aims: to be reconciled with his estranged son and to make his passing as easy as possible for his younger wife. He is a member of an exclusive and expen­sive euthanasia organization, which he hires to send him painlessly and quickly into ‘that good night’. What makes this film particularly poignant and tenderly watchable is the main character played by Sir John Hurt, who himself died of a terminal ill­ness at the age of 77 in January 2017, shortly after the film was shot.

Released in May 2018, the film received mixed reviews. No one can fault the acting of Golden Globe and BAFTA Award winning Hurt, espe­cially as it was his final role, and one that mirrored his own imminent death. But some critics were quick to pick holes in the weak story line and the abilities of the other actors. For me, just your average film buff, the movie was a gentle and visually stun­ning production in contemplation of both the quality of life, and whether we should have a choice in the time and method of our death.

For those who do not know, John Hurt was a British actor whose career spanned over 50 years, with award-worthy performances in ‘A Man for All Seasons’ (1966), ‘The Naked Civil Servant’ (1975), ‘Mid­night Express’ (1979) and ‘Alien’ (1979), among others. Playing alongside him in That Good Night is Charles Dance, another veteran of British cinema who readers might recognize from ‘Game of Thrones’ where he plays Tywin Lannister. In That Good Night Dance he plays the almost ethereal representative of the euthanasia organization, someone who is only seen by Hurt’s character, and leaves us wondering if he really does exist at all, or is he a figment of imagination. Swedish actress Sofia Helin plays Hurt’s younger wife and brings a sense of summer sun, stylish fashion, and sensuality into the pro­ceedings, which is paralleled by the glorious Portuguese setting.

Without giving too much away, Hurt’s character has called his son to his home in order to reconcile their differences before he dies. Unfortunately, things do not go according to plan, mainly because of the father’s grouchiness and bad behavior towards his son’s girlfriend. Having failed in this, Hurt takes the decision to go ahead with his assist­ed death anyway. This too fails. He feels he has been cheated out of his death and out of the money he paid, but Charles Dance’s character claims this is because he does not believe Hurt truly wants to die just yet. Sure enough, as things prog­ress, Hurt gets a chance to live out another few months in happiness with his family before he goes into ‘that good night’