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Bharat Pariyar, 21, is a mahout (an elephant handler). He lives in Sauraha, Chitwan. His father works abroad as a driver in Saudi Arabia. Pariyar comes from a family of seven, with three brothers and two sisters. He started working at an early age to support his family. Now, he is a professional elephant handler, working for an American project that rescues wounded, old elephants that are forced to work despite their bad health. All elephants are kept unchained.

Every day, Pariyar starts his work by feeding the rescued elephants. Then he and his friends take their elephants, Maya Kali, Champa Kali, and Srijana Kali, to the riverside where they play with dirt and water. This happens twice in a day, from six to 10 in the morning and two to five in the evening.

Pariyar and his friends sit in an ancient Tharu structure known as ‘machan’ built to provide shade from the scorching Tarai heat. They watch their elephants from a distance. Tourists gather to take pictures near the elephants and that’s when they have to be alert. Pariyar says he makes sure to be by his elephant’s side at those times to prevent possible attacks.

Later, they clean the dirt off the elephant’s backs and ride back to Sauraha. Elephants need to be fed often, even late at night, so Pariyar manages food for the elephants before calling it a day.

The Shiva Linga is a representation of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva. It symbolizes the formless and limitless nature of Shiva, representing both creation and dissolution. The Lingam is typically depicted as an elongated oval-shaped stone or pillar, often with a cylindrical base called the yoni, symbolizing the cosmic womb.

This past week, I came across Mithilesh Kumar Santra’s Murti Kala Kendra, a statue shop in front of the west gate of Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu. Upon entering, I saw many designs of Shiva Linga and statues of different Hindu deities. They also make statues of humans, with photos as references.

The statues are made of marble, black stone, or red stone. Black stone statues cost double as ones made in red stone or marble. Eighteen-year-old Aman, who is helping his father with the business, says “I often see Lord Shiva in my dreams. He tells me to work hard and concentrate more on my work without worrying about the result.”

Making statues of people is also popular. A single statue of a human that’s made with marble weighs around 200-250 kg. It’s designed in India. Making precise detailing on statues requires big machinery and that’s the reason such designs are made in India and then brought to Nepal. It costs a minimum of Rs 70,000 to make a human half-body statue.

There are five different designs of Shiva Linga found at this shop, the prices of which range from Rs 50,000 to 75,000. The worship of the Lingam is an ancient tradition that dates back thousands of years and continues to be an integral part of Hindu spirituality and rituals. It’s believed that the Lingam embodies the essence of Shiva’s energy. Devotees worship Shiva Linga as a symbol of the divine power of Lord Shiva and as a means to connect with the universal energy.

Full moon live concerts take place every full moon night at the Kirateshwor Sangeet Ashram, which lies on the east bank of the Bagmati river on the premises of Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu, Nepal. 

The ashram, which was established in 1991, was founded for the development of classical music in Nepal. It offers vocal classes, dance classes, and a variety of music courses.  

Every year, a competition is held at the ashram and only the most deserving students get a chance to play during holy full moon nights. The winner is awarded a year of scholarship at the ashram as well as a cash prize. 

The concert is held between five to eight in the evening. It’s free and everybody is welcome. The music is soothing and it feels a little spiritual too. The tunes transported me to a meditative state of sorts. It’s an extremely calming experience that can recharge and rejuvenate you. 

I was surprised to find out that not many people know about these concerts that have been happening regularly for the past 25 years. I believe we must do everything we can to promote this event as a tourism activity. Though I saw a lot of locals and tourists alike when I was attending one, the concert deserves a much larger crowd and fanbase. 

Veda Herbal Product is a small-scale industry that makes soaps, essential oils, massage oils, hair oils, etc. They have a range of fragrances—citronella, mint, honey blend, neem, rose, sandalwood, lemongrass, etc. Butter tree soap is one of their best selling products. Their products are used in hotels in Nepal and exported to Japan and various European countries.

“Butter tree soap is a great alternative to perfume-mixed commercial soaps. It has high medical value too,” says Rajiv Pandey, the founder of Veda Herbal Product. Located in Bhangal in Budhanilkantha, Kathmandu, the company was founded five years ago. Pandey’s father was an Ayurvedic doctor who provided the necessary information needed to launch the brand.

The process of making handmade soap generally involves mixing fats or oils with a strong alkali solution (such as lye) to initiate a chemical reaction called saponification. The process starts with collecting all the ingredients needed for the soap recipe, including oils or fats, lye, water, fragrances, colorants, and any other additives. The oils and fats are heated until they melt and mix. Lye is then added to the water and stirred until it dissolves completely. The desired fragrance is added once both the oil and lye solution have cooled to a suitable temperature.

The workers then pour the soap mixture into molds of the desired shape. The soaps are left in the molds for 24-48 hours, after which they are cut into bars. The bars are placed on a rack in a well-ventilated area to cure for four to six weeks. This allows excess water to evaporate, resulting in a harder, longer-lasting bar of soap.

The kite eagle, also known as the black kite, can be found in Kathmandu, Nepal. These birds are quite common in urban areas and can often be seen soaring through the skies or perched on top of buildings and trees. They are opportunistic feeders and are known to scavenge for food in urban environments. The black kite is a common raptor found in many parts of the world.

This week, I went west of Swayambhunath temple where I came across a restaurant called Moon Rock. The restaurant is run by Tsering Gyalpo Lama and he owns the land it’s built on. The restaurant has gained popularity in the past couple of months as it offers an amazing panoramic view of Kathmandu Valley.

Every day, Lama feeds many eagles. He tosses meat treats in the air, standing on his restaurant’s rooftop. He does this between three to five in the afternoon, and with such regularity that the birds have come to anticipate it. The meat he feeds the birds is usually leftovers from the restaurant.

The eagles consume about five kilos of raw meat each day, he says, adding he noticed that the birds of prey seem to prefer chicken meat. “They can catch it while flying and eat on flight too,” says Lama, the wonder evident in his voice.

Lama is fascinated by eagles and hopes to have one as a pet someday. He is planning to rename the restaurant. He wants to call it the Eagle Feeding Restaurant so that people know what to expect when they go there. Currently, he lets those who want to feed the birds do so at no extra cost.

During my visit to the restaurant, I could hear screeches of baby eagles asking for food as they were flying above our heads. After Lama fed them, they took flight towards Swayambhunath temple and eventually headed into Kathmandu Valley. Complete with breathtaking views of the valley, it made for a fascinating scene and experience.

If you have visited the Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu, Nepal, in the past year, you might have come across a lovely park. Built on an area of 50,800 square meters, this garden boasts over 150 varieties of plants, trees, herbs, etc. The scientific name of each plant is written on little placard-like tags next to it. A stroll through the garden can be peaceful, relaxing, and educational at the same time.

Before the park was revamped and inaugurated on the New Year of the Hindu calendar (1 Baisakh 2080), it was a dumping site of sorts and also a place where people gathered to partake in illegal activities like drug use, etc. Now, it’s turned into a spiritual haven of sorts. It has seven major spiritual structures that each tell different stories of ancient Hindu texts, including the Vedas, the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and other Sanskrit epics.

You have to buy a ticket to enter the park. It costs Rs 50. I bought one and was offered a guide. He led me through all the main sections, explaining the importance and theme of each segment of the park. There weren’t many people and the place had a calming ambiance. It’s an ideal place for those who prefer to spend some time alone. It’s also a good place to meditate. I will go again and I recommend you to visit it too. It’s an oasis of calm in the heart of the city.

Pashupati crematorium is located in the Pashupatinath temple premises in Kathmandu, Nepal. It’s a sacred Hindu site where cremations take place along the Bagmati River. Near the crematorium is the shop where you can find everything that is required for a traditional cremation—Paddy, straw shoes, ghee, wooden logs and sticks, green bamboo stretchers specially used to carry dead bodies from ambulances into the landing stairs (ghat) of the Bagmati river.

This shop fixes the prices of goods that are delivered and unloaded at the banks of Bagmati. The staff carry them and store them in the shop’s warehouse. Green bamboo is often used to carry dead bodies in some cultures due to its easy availability, strength, and symbolism. Bamboo is lightweight, flexible, and abundant in certain regions, making it practical for constructing a simple stretcher or carrier. Additionally, in some cultures, bamboo holds cultural or religious significance, and the use of green bamboo may be tied to symbolism related to life, renewal, or nature. The exact reason varies based on local traditions and beliefs.

I came across a middle-aged man selecting bamboo meticulously. His name was Rajkumar Tandukar. He told me he was preparing to make a ladder-shaped structure just behind the shop. It has been a decade since he has been doing this. He has made as many as over 25 bamboo stretchers in just a single day. Even though Pashupati now has an electric crematorium, the traditional method of cremation is still preferred over it. I saw many funerals being carried out along the banks of the river.

Stone crafting is an art form that requires a lot of concentration. It’s a highly skilled craft that involves sculpting and engraving on flat slabs of stone. Artisans use various tools like chisel and hammer, and the level of carving that is achievable if done with the right techniques is simply amazing.

On a recent visit to the Swayambhunath temple, I chanced upon a souvenir shop that sold stone carvings ranging from religious symbols and deities to mythological scenes and intricate patterns. I approached the man who was there. He told me he was the artist behind the crafts, before adding that it could take up to two months for complex designs and 3D sculptures. “Carving isn’t only an artistic expression but also a method to convey spiritual and cultural aspects rooted in the Nepali tradition,” he said.

Skilled artisans select the appropriate type of stone, considering factors like color, texture, and durability. Common choices include marble, granite, or soapstone, each offering a distinct canvas for the artist’s vision. The first step involves rough carving of the stone into a basic form, setting the foundation for the intricate details that will follow.

Stone carving has ancient origins that date back to prehistoric times, and has been preserved to date by passing the skills to younger generations. The earliest evidence of stone carving can be traced to the Paleolithic era when primitive tools were used to carve simple shapes and figures into rocks and stones. Although many advanced tools and machines have been developed now, handmade stone carvings still sell at the highest price range as it takes time, effort, and skills.