Historic palace being rebuilt sans permit
Despite its cultural and archeological significance, the nearly six-century-old Mustang Palace doesn’t inspire much awe. In fact, the closed and decaying doors and windows give an impression that the palace is getting more decrepit. But the fresh layer of earth in some walls raised an obvious question: who is renovating the place? Historical records suggest that the Mustang Palace was constructed in 1440 following the establishment of an independent Mustang state. Besides the palace’s unique style that is appropriate for the high mountainous region, the tall walls surrounding the entire capital are an extra attraction. But the collapsed walls are a pathetic sight now. Within the confines of the walls are the palace, a Buddhist shrine and 170 houses built in ancient styles of architecture.
The palace is a five-storied building with 108 rooms. It houses important Buddhist texts, statues, ancient artifacts as well as over 300 sheep and mountain goats.
Coming back to the present, my investigation revealed that the palace’s façade is being redone by an NGO named HimalAsia Cultural Heritage and Educational Foundation, without the government’s knowledge. The NGO works on issues related to mountain culture and education and has offices in Germany and Sikkim besides one in Kathmandu.
Such unsupervised reconstruction threatens the palace’s originality. “Official indifference on the one hand and the NGO’s negligence in the name of reconstruction on the other have spoilt the palace’s traditional splendor,” says Madan Rimal, a culture expert. “No heritage building can be altered without government permission. The Department of Archaeology (DOA) has to take charge of the palace’s reconstruction.”
The DOA isn’t aware of the reconstruction work on the palace either. Director General Bhesh Narayan Dahal pleads ignorance and admits that his office hasn’t been able to take charge of the renovation even though it should. Following the monarchy’s abolition, the Mustang Palace has been reduced to a tourist attraction, and no more. While the government, through the Office of the Nepal Trust, has started conservation work on the palaces of the Shah kings, the Mustang Palace hasn’t drawn its attention. Ramchandra Tiwari, Chief District Officer (CDO) of Mustang, says he has no information about the palace’s reconstruction. “There is no record of any organization seeking permission for it. But we can certainly look into it,” says Tiwari.
However, Indra Dhara Bista, a Province 4 assembly member, says that in the absence of government funds, the palace’s renovation was commenced with the help of the NGO. “As the palace became dilapidated, it stopped attracting tourists. So we started renovating it, even though the money had to come from an NGO,” says Bista.
Susan Vonderheid, Director of HimalAsia, admits that her organization started reconstruction work on the palace without informing state authorities. “We started our work on the basis of our agreement with the Mustang Palace. We don’t know the rest,” she said.
The palace had already fallen victim to state apathy, and the 2015 earthquake only exacerbated its state. Tourists aren’t allowed inside the palace after the quake damaged its structure. “The palace must be conserved; this is our common concern,” says Rinjing Dorje Bista, chairperson of Lo Manthang rural municipality-5. “Upper Mustang is interesting and important not only because of its natural beauty but also because of its rich history, culture and archeology. The palace obviously has its own significance,” says Bista.
Some locals are preparing to launch an initiative to place the Mustang Palace and the settlement in its vicinity on the World Heritage List. “The bottom line is that the palace has to be restored to its former glory. All we ask is that there be an environment where domestic and foreign tourists visit this place to see the palace,” says Tashi Gurung, a local.
By Chhetu Sherpa | Lo Manthang, Mustang
Making sense of the long delay in left merger
Both India and Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli were in a mood to wrap up the unification process of CPN-UML and CPN (Maoist Center) before the start of Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s Nepal visit on May 11 and 12. As India has of late been dragged into a few controversies in Nepal, including, most notably, during the 2015-16 border blockade, New Delhi wanted to preempt the perception that the left unity had its blessings. For his part, PM Oli, who has in the past few years stood firm in his nationalist stand, would naturally want to safeguard the image of the new party from the damaging ‘pro-India’ label. But their desire could be thwarted, primarily because Maoist Chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal wants ‘credible’ assurances that either he will be the prime minister after two and a half years or he will get to lead the combined left outfit post-merger. Yet it is hard to see what such assurances could be. If Dahal wants Oli to commit, in writing, to relinquishing the prime minister’s chair after some time, Oli could perhaps oblige. But such a commitment will be meaningless if, tomorrow, the rest of the UML leadership is not willing to accept him as their prime minister. Ditto with any assurances on the party’s chairmanship.
This is why Dahal has of late been hinting that he is looking for ‘collective assurances’ from the UML top brass. But with the UML still very divided on Dahal’s role in the new party, such a promise would be hard to get. Alternately, Dahal has proposed that party unification take place on a 50-50 basis, with near equal division of seats between UML and Maoist Center in all important decision-making bodies in the new party. That would make it easier for Dahal to stake a claim on either party leadership or the prime minister’s chair in the future. But then, a 50-50 division of spoils will be unacceptable to UML rank and file.
Interestingly, Dahal is also said to be open to party unification, even in unequal terms, if China is ready to act as a witness to the ‘gentleman’s agreement’ with Oli, whereby Oli commits to giving up one of the two executive posts at a fixed future date. Of course, Dahal cannot expect India, the other big external power in Nepal, to play that role because the Indians no longer trust him much.
Neither Oli nor Dahal can afford to be seen as backing down from the merger promise, which, after all, helped them secure a two-thirds majority in last year’s general and provincial elections. But signs are that it could take some time yet.
Annapurna Post celebrates 16th anniversary
Annapurna Post daily, the flagship publication of Annapurna Media Network (AMN), completed 16 years of its publication on May 3, which is also the World Press Freedom Day. The Nepali daily has been in publication continuously since May 03, 2002.
Speaking on the occasion of the 16th anniversary, Captain Rameshwar Thapa, the chairman of the AMN, said, “The newspaper has adeptly carried out with not just professional responsibilities but also many social obligations since the start of its publication. Now, we are committed to helping the country implement the new constitution.”
Thapa also clarified that the publication had no political agenda and that it was committed to independent journalism.
Vijay Kumar, AMN’s Group Editor, said the progress Annapurna Post has made till date is satisfactory but that it could ill afford to rest on its laurels. He also praised the “young and energetic” leadership of Rajaram Gautam, the editor of Annapurna Post.
Speaking at the same program, Gautam, for his part, committed himself and his team to the newspaper’s new motto Khoj Naya Soch Naya (‘New investigations, new thoughts’).
In search of a summer within
FICTION
In the Midst of Winter
Isabel Allende
Translated into English by Nick Caistor and Amanda Hopkinson
Published: October 2017
Publisher: Scribner, an imprint of Simon & Schuster UK Ltd
Pages: 342, paperback
In an interview, Isabel Allende said that she wrote ‘In the Midst of Winter’ in 2016 just when she was coming out of a divorce after 28 years of marriage and her agent, three close friends, and dog had all died. It was during these trying times that she came upon a quote by Albert Camus: “In the midst of winter, I finally found there was within me an invincible summer. For the summer that we all have inside to manifest we need to open the heart and take risks.” And that’s what the book is about: Three traumatized people trapped in a snowstorm in Brooklyn, New York facing a life-and-death situation. By choosing to support one another and being kind, they ultimately discover the invincible summers that lie within them. The book opens with a minor car collision, between 60-year old scholar Richard Bowmaster and Evelyn Ortega, an undocumented Guatemalan refugee. This incident sets into motion a chain of events which forces the two and 62-year-old Lucia Maraz, a visiting professor at NYU, who is also Bowmaster’s coworker and tenant, to deal with a situation that, to begin with, is not their problem, and which seems to be spiraling out of control by the minute.
While ‘In the Midst of Winter’ mostly focuses on Richard, Lucia, and Evelyn’s seemingly ordinary lives, mystery and intrigue simultaneously weave their way into the story, making what would otherwise have been a slow narrative into a gripping can’t-stop-till-I-know-what-happens-next read.
Lucia and Evelyn sometimes feel like extensions of Allende’s personal history as the author has said, time and again, that, for much of her life, she’s felt like a foreigner. And it seems here, through them, Allende is taking the liberty to make her readers understand what the immigrant experience is like.
Though there can be no better time to tell immigrants’ stories, you sometimes wish the writing were a little less flowery, allowing you to focus on the character’s lives instead of getting stuck in the imageries it manages to conjure.
Also, ‘In the Midst of Winter’ feels a little awkward because something doesn’t seem right and the ending too is a bit off. But, all in all, Allende deserves to be read because her stories get you thinking about the many things you tend to take for granted in life.
The gripping tale of palace intrigues now in English
The English translation of ‘Maile Dekheko Durbar’, a bestselling book by Vivek Kumar Shah, former military secretary to the late king Birendra Shah, has hit the bookstores. ‘Maile Dekheko Durbar’ had created ripples in Nepal’s political circle when it was published in 2010. The English version is entitled ‘Witnessing Palace, Power and Politics’.
The book takes its readers deep into the intrigues of the Narayanhiti Royal Palace and provides an inside view into the momentous events of our times: the Royal Palace Massacre, king Gyanendra’s wresting of executive powers, the Maoist armed rebellion, its genesis and the forces backing it, the Comprehensive Peace Agreement between the mainstream political parties and the Maoists, the end of monarchy and the advent of republicanism in Nepal.
Written with valor and at great personal risk, the book is a must-read for anyone who wants to understand Nepal’s contemporary history.
At the launch of ‘Witnessing Palace, Power and Politics’ this week in Kathmandu, author Shah said that many friends had requested him to translate ‘Maile Dekheko Durbar’ as soon as it was out. “Now that the translation has come out,” he says, “many people who didn’t have access to Nepali can enjoy the book.”
“The book is a living history,” he adds.
The book is published by FinePrint in hardcover and is priced at Rs 1,012.
The Zen of Thai food
The Zen Bistro & Café serves ‘authentic’ Thai Cuisine inside its calm and discreet premise at Bansbari, on the way to Narayanthan. “Food so authentic, you’ll have to double-check whether you’re in Bangkok” — Zen’s Facebook page reads and the many reviews by its customers on the page back it up. Zen’s Pork BBQs, Delicious Shrimps Wrapped in Bacon, Wonderful Crispy Spinach and Spicy Lemon Fish are dishes its customers swear by.
With ample parking space and also easily accessible by public transportation, Zen’s location away from the core city’s hustle makes it an ideal place for a quiet evening dinner or a lazy afternoon brunch.
THE MENU
Chef’s Special: Tom Yum Soup, Summer Style Papaya Salad, Deep Fried Fish with Panag Sauce
Opening hours
11:00 am - 10:00 pm
8:00 am - 10 pm (Saturday)
Live Music: Every Friday
Cards: Accepted
For reservations: 014017654
Nepal’s renewable future
Developed for the first time in 1954 in the Bell laboratories, Solar cells are revolutionary technology to harness the free energy provided by the sun. One hour of solar energy that falls on the earth in a day is capable of powering the world economy for that day. Solar energy also provides great scope for job creation.
Solar is being productively harnessed by both India and China. Narendra Modi recently had the 75 MW solar plant in Uttar Pradesh commissioned by the French President Emmanuel Macron and China has the world’s largest installed capacity for renewable energy.
Nepal has to spend more than 50 percent of its foreign currency to import petroleum products, two-thirds of which is used to power the hungry transport system. Diverting these resources to electrically-powered zero emission vehicles can create job opportunities never before imagined. Solar, wind and hydro powered charging stations for electrical vehicles can be deployed even in the remotest corners of Nepal.
Kathmandu’s tourism opportunities are overshadowed by its ill repute as the world’s most polluted cities. Protecting its cultural heritage from pollution has been a challenge. Going green can expand and save the economy in more than one way.
The traditional pollution-based economy has created two classes of people: have and haves not. But distributed renewable energy will generate equal income for all involved stakeholders. These sources of energy can be people-owned, and as such the fruits of the economy will be widely shared.
Renewable sources of energy are easily deployed and scalable, especially solar. Technological development over past four years in Solar PV systems goes beyond hydro and wind. With vocational training a college graduate can be the sole required skilled manpower. Solar PV system thus has been responsible for three million jobs around the globe. Bringing our brothers and sisters back home though creation of lucrative jobs is the need of the hour.
The renewable energy penetration for China and India are 15 and 25 percent respectively, as of 2015. With other renewable energy, the major challenge is to store for emergency use; hydro has the most feasible storage option.
With combined development of solar and hydro in Nepal, we can easily be a renewable energy supplier to both these economies. There are tremendous growth opportunities in these energy markets. The long-term objective of creating a sustainable Nepali economy goes hand in hand with the interests of our neighbors and leading world economies.
Our economy can be a role model and develop concurrent to the 17 sustainable development goals of United Nations. The goals are broad and interrelated, with one common thread: renewable energy. So long as anybody can remember, the water has never stopped flowing, the wind has never stopped blowing and there is sunshine year round.
BY SOUGAT DHUNGEL
Hyatt helps with after-quake rehabilitation
To celebrate Hyatt’s 8th Global Month of Community Service, associates from Hyatt Regency Kathmandu volunteered with Habitat for Humanity Nepal to help re-build an earthquake-affected family in Panchkhal, Kavre on April 23.
The Hyatt Global Month of Community Service program encourages hotels around the world to give something back to the communities they call home. A total of 30 associates from different departments participated in the construction activity in an effort to strengthen their commitment and bond with the local communities.
The team of associates traveled 47 kilometers to volunteer in building a house for 56-year-old Lata Man Tamang, living in Panchkal. His house was completely destroyed during the earthquakes in 2015. The Participatory Approach for Safe Shelter Awareness (PASSA), a group formed as part of Habitat Nepal’s Nepal Earthquake Assistance Program, identified as one of the most vulnerable persons in the community, allowing him to receive extra support, such as goods-in-kind, top-ups and labor support, on top of the typical reconstruction grants offered to rebuild his house.