Nepal’s tourism sector has long relied on only a handful of popular trekking destinations. However, the need of the hour is to identify and explore new places with tourism potential. If we make the effort, we can find countless unexplored destinations across the country that can offer travelers even more diverse experiences. Recently, we explored one such place, a destination that very few people have heard about.
In the northeastern part of Lamjung district, in Gandaki Province, lies a magnificent destination offering breathtaking views of more than a dozen mountains, including Mt Machhapuchhre, Mt Dhaulagiri, Mt Ngadi Peak, and Mt Boudha. This place is home to more than seven lakes, each with its own name and unique stories, making it distinct from other popular tourist spots. This is the Mhe Mhe Pokhari Cultural Trail Trek.
We—a team of 32 trekkers from “Happy Hikers” and “The Walkers,” along with 35 porters, kitchen staff, and guides—officially inaugurated the historic Mhe Mhe Pokhari trail in Dordi Rural Municipality-7 of Lamjung district. Upon reaching Hilebesi, approximately 180 km from Kathmandu, around 100 villagers welcomed us with garlands and tika.
After the warm and grand welcome at Hilebesi, we traveled by bus to Upper Khinchowk, about an hour’s drive away. There, another group had been eagerly waiting for nearly three hours to greet us with lively cultural dances and music performances. Although we wished to stay longer and enjoy the program, fatigue caught up with us. After a hearty dinner, we retired to our homestays.
The next morning, after enjoying sel roti along with curry and tea for breakfast, we gathered at a designated spot to begin the trek. The air was filled with warmth and smiles as the mothers’ group bid us farewell, applying tika and showering us with blessings.
Soon after leaving the village and entering the jungle, the steep ascent, and the terror of leeches, began. However, the higher we climbed, the better the views became. On the first day, we trekked for about six hours, ascending from 1,200 m to 2,570 m. We set up our tents at Pauli Danda, where we also found a small shed. It was here that we caught our first glimpse of the majestic Mt Boudha and Mt Himalchuli.
By the time we reached our first stop, the sun was setting toward the horizon, casting a golden glow across the mountains. The moment was unforgettable, although clouds had already covered some of the surrounding ranges.
The next morning, we witnessed a captivating sunrise from Pauli Danda. The eastern sky glowed in deep shades of red and orange, and from the ridge we could see more than eighteen majestic peaks, Mt Manaslu and Mt Himalchuli to the north, and Mt Machhapuchhre and the Annapurna range to the west. After breakfast, we set off for our next destination, picking jungle fruits like chutro (berberis) and raspberries along the way.
The trail was so tranquil and enthralling that we were completely absorbed in its beauty, hardly noticing when we reached Khole Pokhari, an open ground rather than a pond. According to our guide, there used to be a beautiful pond here. However, it was believed that whenever two people went near it, only one would return. In other words, the pond was thought to claim a life. In anger and fear, villagers eventually cut down part of the hill and drained the pond.
Later, it was believed that the spirit had settled at Barah Pokhari, just below the hill, prompting villagers to build a temple there. Listening to these stories, we reached Thodi Danda, our third-day station. We set up our tents while watching an astonishing sunset. As night deepened, the temperature dropped, and because our tents were pitched on a slope, we struggled to sleep comfortably.
On the fourth day, barely ten minutes after starting our walk from Thodi Danda following breakfast, we reached a stunning spot surrounded by rhododendron trees and a wide green meadow. From there, the Manaslu Himalayan range stood directly before us, with Mt Annapurna visible to our left.
We spent some time taking photos and videos. As it was our acclimatization day, we walked only a short distance and spent the night at Komro Danda. Situated at an altitude of 4,000 m, Komro Danda was truly a wonderful place. The view of the mountains and the sunset from there remains vivid in my memory.
Despite its beauty and tranquility, the area suffers from a lack of water. Heartfelt thanks go to the porters, who walked nearly an hour to fetch water and cook for us. Recently, the local authority constructed a dharmashala there, providing a proper resting place for travelers. Once the water problem is resolved, the journey will become much easier. We spent the night at the dharmashala.
The next day, having been informed that the trail ahead would be long and challenging, we began walking soon after breakfast without delay. We had now entered the alpine zone. The trail grew narrow and demanding, but the stunning views of Boudha Himal made the journey feel vibrant and rewarding.
As there was no open ground to pitch tents, we had to walk directly from Komro Danda to Mhe Mhe Pokhari Base Camp to spend the night. We had noodles for lunch that day. The trail after lunch proved to be the most challenging and adventurous part of our journey. The weather was cold, and thick fog blanketed the surroundings. The path was rocky, narrow, and difficult, forcing us to walk while taking support from the rocky walls.
Each time we reached the top of a hill, another appeared right in front of us. After much hardship, we finally crossed two hills—Tare Deurali (4,350 m) and Chabi Danda (4,380 m)—and reached Mhe Mhe Pokhari Base Camp.
A dharmashala had been built there, so half of our group took shelter inside while the rest stayed in tents. On the sixth day, after walking for about twenty minutes, we were rewarded with the serene Mhe Mhe Pokhari Lake. According to a local guide, the lake got its name when a person, seeing its vastness for the first time, was so shocked and dizzy that the words “Mhe Mhe” escaped his mouth. In the Gurung language, Mhe Mhe is an expression used when one feels dizzy.
It is believed that those who make a wish upon reaching the lake will have it fulfilled. A few minutes of uphill walking led us to several other stunning lakes, including Narsingh Lake, Talwar Lake, Dhalkyu Lake, and the mother of all lakes: Dudh Pokhari. Each lake appeared in a different color, some green and others blue.
Some members of our group even scaled Mhe Mhe Peak (5,049 m), also known as Mhe Mahe Pass, with the help of a guide. Those who did not attempt the peak spent their time around the lakes, quietly soaking in the beauty and capturing photos and videos.
On the seventh day, after packing our lunch, we descended straight to Thodi Danda and spent the night there. The eighth day involved a long descent to Duwar via Barah Pokhari. As we reached the village, we found the villagers eagerly waiting to welcome us.
Witnessing the welcome ceremony reminded us that the cultural saying “Atithi Devo Bhava” (Guests is god) still thrives in Nepal. At the end of the trek, we realized that Nepal continues to hold countless hidden gems, waiting to be explored and shared with the world.
