Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty in India, heard about Simraungarh, a flourishing settlement deep inside the jungle. While returning from Bengal, he ordered his army to conquer it. The last king of the Karnata dynasty, Harisingh Dev, didn’t attempt to resist. Upon hearing of the approaching Tughlaq army, he abandoned the fort and fled, carrying his goddess, Tulja Bhawani, with him.

Sometime in 1324, while escaping northward, his army grew hungry. The goddess Tulja Bhawani instructed them to eat the first animal they saw in the morning, which happened to be a water buffalo. Later, Harisingh Dev’s dynasty ruled the Kathmandu Valley, integrating and establishing Newar culture.

This is the story we often hear about how the water buffalo became a staple in Nepali cuisine.

According to Bikram Vaidya, a renowned US-based chef, researcher, and writer, Harisingh Dev’s ancestors came from southern India, where the tradition of sacrificing water buffalo and consuming its meat was already well established. He suggests that they brought this practice with them. For over 2,000 years, water buffalo has remained the most prized and primary source of protein for the Newar people.

Throughout the history of the Indian subcontinent, the water buffalo has held deep cultural and ritualistic importance. Archaeological evidence from the Harappan civilization (dating back 5,000 years) depicts the sacrifice of water buffalo, highlighting its role in both sustenance and spirituality. This practice spread across regions, taking on unique expressions among different communities, including the Newars.

The tradition of eating buffalo meat, popularly known as ‘buff’, is also linked to the Mahesh Pal dynasty, which ruled parts of the Kathmandu Valley. Historical accounts suggest that buffalo meat consumption was institutionalized during their reign to promote sustainable food practices. Male buffaloes, which were not useful for dairy production, became a primary source of meat, ensuring that no part of the animal went to waste.

During the Malla dynasty (12th to 18th centuries), the Newars flourished as a community deeply engaged in trade, art, and culture. The Malla kings’ patronage of festivals and rituals reinforced the role of water buffalo in religious offerings. Male buffaloes, in particular, were used in sacrificial ceremonies during major festivals such as Dashain, Indra Jatra, and Pachali Bhairav Jatra. This tradition continues today, symbolizing the connection between the buffalo and divine appeasement.

This philosophy aligns with the modern ‘nose-to-tail’ culinary movement, which emphasizes using every part of an animal. For the Newars, this approach was both practical and celebratory. Each organ and cut of the buffalo was transformed into a delicacy, enriching their cuisine with a diverse range of flavors and textures.

According to Bikram Vaidya, when animals are slaughtered during special occasions, over 30 different dishes are prepared using various parts of the buffalo. Newar cuisine exemplifies the principle of zero waste, ensuring that every part of the male buffalo is utilized. Here is a glimpse into some of the most remarkable buffalo dishes in Newar cuisine:

• Nhyapu (Buffalo Brain): A delicacy cooked with spices, creating a creamy and rich dish.
• Tisya (Buffalo Meat): Tender cuts cooked in a variety of ways, from grilling to stewing.
• Mye (Buffalo Tongue): Marinated and grilled, valued for its chewy texture.
• Swan (Buffalo Lungs): Often stuffed and fried, showcasing innovative cooking techniques.
• Sapumhicha: A celebrated dish of buffalo tripe stuffed with bone marrow and then fried.
• Go (Stomach): Cooked in curries or stir-fried with spices.
• Sen (Buffalo Liver): Prepared with mustard oil and garlic for a rich flavor.
• Hi (Blood): Coagulated and spiced to create a savory dish.
• Chwahi (White Blood): Another unique preparation of buffalo blood.
• Dayekagu La (Cooked Meat): A staple in every feast, featuring richly spiced buffalo meat.
• Takha La (Jellied Meat): A winter delicacy made by slow-cooking meat and allowing it to set into a jelly.
• Sanya Khuna: A spiced, jelly-like preparation made from buffalo soup.
• Haku Chhwela: Smoky grilled meat marinated in spices.
• Mana Chhwela: Boiled and marinated buffalo meat.
• Bhutan: Stir-fried intestines, a crunchy and flavorful dish.
• Chhyala (Head Meat): A flavorful preparation using meat from the buffalo’s head.
• Mikha (Eyes): Cooked and spiced, exemplifying the true nose-to-tail philosophy.
• Bosyanndra (Blood-Filled Intestine): A sausage-like preparation made with seasoned blood.
• Kachila (Raw Meat): Seasoned raw minced meat, often served with toasted flatbread.
• Chyakula: A unique dish made from specific cuts of buffalo.
• Khaya Chhwela (Chicken Chhwela): An adaptation using chicken.
• Nyaya Chhwela (Fish Chhwela): A version made with fish, adding diversity to the spread.
• Jan La (Back Meat): A prized cut prepared with care.
• Takula (Large Cuts): Often slow-cooked for a tender texture.
• Twanang: Another specialty cut prepared in traditional ways.
• Hyakula: A key part of the feast, highlighting specific cuts.
• Nhyepang (Tail): Cooked with spices for a chewy delight.
• Sapu (Tripe): Used in various dishes, often paired with spicy sauces.
• Amphi Chhyala: Meat prepared using a unique method involving aged spices.
• Kaa Kwa (Meatball): Meatballs made from buffalo meat and herbs.

When I set out to discuss buffalo dishes in Newar cuisine, I knew my knowledge and language skills were limited. Additionally, I haven’t tasted many of the dishes I have described here. However, as American writer Maya Angelou once said:Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better. With this in mind, I have made an attempt, and I encourage young Nepali food lovers and food scientists to document and preserve the rich variety of buffalo dishes in Newar cuisine.

The author is a London-based R&D chef