Born into a traditional Newar family in Bode, Bhaktapur, Sujan Baga Shrestha grew up watching and celebrating various Newa festivals and rituals. From a young age, he felt a deep calling to participate in the sacred tongue-piercing ritual, a tradition deeply rooted in his family. His father had performed the ritual for eight years, and his uncle (kaka) had also upheld the practice for several years. For Shrestha, this was more than a ritual—it was a spiritual journey, a connection to his ancestors, and a way to honor his identity.
He remembers that he was only 8–9 years old when he started understanding that his uncle also pierced the tongue. When he used to ask about the ritual, his father used to say that it was only done for god and to honor god. However, when he was 18 or 19, his father refused to let him participate, believing he was too young. Shrestha recalls the emotional moment vividly. Tears streaming down his face, he pleaded to his father to allow him to continue the family tradition in front of the camera who were shooting for his father’s piercing ceremony. As a child, he had witnessed the ritual up close, and the experience had left an indelible mark on him. He was determined to follow in his father’s footsteps, no matter the challenges.
Now a professional driver, Shrestha sees the tongue-piercing ritual as a profound spiritual experience. He believes that Nepal’s Newa culture is a source of global pride, and many Nepalis abroad continue to honor these traditions. By participating in the ritual, he aims to preserve and promote this cultural heritage, ensuring that it remains alive for future generations.
Shrestha’s faith in the power of tradition was reinforced during the devastating 2015 earthquake. While destruction ravaged much of Nepal, no houses in his community were damaged, and no lives were lost. He attributes this miracle to the blessings of the gods, who he believes watch over those who uphold their cultural practices with a pure heart.
His father, who observed the ritual for four consecutive years, was a major source of inspiration. However, after his grandmother’s passing, his father had to pause, and another uncle took over. Shrestha had wanted to step in, but his father deemed him too frail at the time. This only deepened his resolve to participate when the opportunity arose again.
Despite his passion, Shrestha has faced physical challenges, including a recurring shoulder dislocation that makes strenuous activities difficult. His first experience with the ritual was a mix of excitement and nervousness. Participants must fast for four days beforehand, consuming only alcohol if they choose. On the day of the piercing, Shrestha’s father and uncle, the ritual leader, instructed him to close his eyes. The initial piercing of the upper layer of his tongue was bearable, but the lower part brought searing pain, forcing him to squeeze his eyes shut. Yet, in that moment, he felt an overwhelming sense of pride.
One of the most remarkable moments came during the fasting period. Shrestha felt weak and suffered from a persistent cough. “But as soon as I wore the ritual costume and ghungroo (ankle bells),” he recalls. “I suddenly felt empowered, and my cough vanished.” This transformation left him in awe, reinforcing his belief in the spiritual energy of the tradition.
His second experience was even more daunting. Battling a 102-degree fever, Shrestha endured the ritual with grit and determination. When asked if he would participate again this year, he said he would decide in a few days, showcasing his unwavering commitment despite the physical toll.
The rituals surrounding the tongue-piercing tradition are steeped in discipline and reverence. Participants must offer coins which are called Bapenatyau to four key individuals—Pama (the main leader), Kaminaya (the piercer), and two Pancha Bali (representatives from the Shahi family). Strict purity rules follow: no contact with animals and women, staying indoors, and avoiding food touched by others. Even local leaders, including the Mayor and parliamentary representatives, join the ritual, underscoring its communal significance.
After the piercing, the restrictions lift, and participants enjoy a feast. When asked how they manage to eat after such a painful procedure, The leader of the ritual, Pama explains that temple mud is applied to the pierced area, providing relief. With a laugh, he adds, “After the piercing, I can easily eat a whole plate of spicy choila in the evening.”
Shrestha is passionate about passing down the tradition. If the younger generation expresses interest, he vows to support them wholeheartedly. As a newly married man, he acknowledges it may be years before his future son might participate, but he encourages his younger brother to take part if he wishes. For Shrestha, keeping the tradition alive is a sacred duty.
Though he doesn’t know the exact history of the ritual, he shares that it was practiced by his grandfather. Growing up in a family that faced poverty, Shrestha witnessed many struggles. Yet, he believes that dedicating time to the ritual has brought divine blessings and protection. “God has looked after us and kept us safe from harm,” he says.
The ritual has also shaped how the community perceives Shrestha and his family. They are treated with immense respect, and neighbors are always willing to lend a hand. For Shrestha, the tradition has brought only positivity into his life.
The final stages of the ritual are equally profound. On the 5th day of Baisakh, the leaders carry the Khatt/Kharpan of Kalika Kumari, a deity, in a sacred procession. No one is allowed to see them, and the carriers chant “Binami,” a Newar word meaning “Excuse me,” as they roam the area at night. Shrestha admits he is particularly scared of this day, as he has never dared to break the rule and peek.
Through his journey, Shrestha embodies the enduring power of tradition. His unwavering dedication to the tongue-piercing ritual reflects his deep connection to his culture, spirituality, and community. He hopes that future generations will continue to uphold these time-honored customs, ensuring that the rich heritage of the Newar people thrives for years to come.
