When I first moved to Kathmandu from Pokhara for my studies, everything felt new and overwhelming. Away from the warmth of home and my mother’s cooking, I longed for familiar flavors. Living on a student budget meant I couldn’t indulge in culinary luxuries every day, but there was one breakfast that became my solace: ‘Haluwa-swari’, ‘jeri-swari’, paired with ‘tato tato chiya’ (hot tea) and ‘piro aalu kerau tarkari’. It was a taste of comfort in a city that felt unfamiliar.

What is haluwa?

Haluwa is a sweet semolina pudding that is rich, buttery, and fragrant. Made primarily from semolina (suji), ghee (clarified butter), sugar, and milk or water, it’s flavored with cardamom and garnished with nuts and dried fruits such as almonds, cashews, and raisins. The cooking process involves roasting semolina in ghee until golden brown, then adding sweetened milk or water and stirring until it achieves a thick, smooth consistency.

Haluwa’s luxurious texture and rich flavor make it a dish of celebration, often prepared during festivals, pujas, and special occasions. However, when paired with swari, it transforms into a humble yet indulgent breakfast. The slightly grainy texture of haluwa, combined with the flaky, crisp swari, creates a delightful contrast.

What is swari?

Swari is a flaky, deep-fried flatbread that resembles puri but is slightly thicker and less oily. Made from wheat flour, a touch of ghee, and water, the dough is rolled into small discs and fried until golden and puffy. Swari has a soft interior and a crisp exterior, making it an ideal accompaniment to both sweet and savory dishes.

In the context of haluwa-swari, the swari acts as the perfect vehicle for scooping up the rich, sweet haluwa. Its neutral taste balances the sweetness of haluwa, making every bite a harmonious blend of flavors and textures. Swari’s versatility also makes it an excellent companion for piro aalu kerau tarkari, demonstrating its importance in Nepali breakfasts.

What is jeri?

Jeri, known as jalebi in other South Asian cuisines, is a spiral-shaped, deep-fried sweet soaked in sugar syrup. Made from a fermented batter of all-purpose flour and yogurt, the mixture is piped into hot oil in circular patterns and fried until crispy. Once golden, the jeri is immediately immersed in warm sugar syrup, allowing it to absorb the syrup and become irresistibly sweet and sticky.

Jeri is often served alongside swari, creating the iconic jeri-swari pairing. The crispy, syrup-soaked jeri provides a burst of sweetness that contrasts beautifully with the flaky, neutral swari. This combination is both decadent and comforting, making it a favorite breakfast or snack for those seeking a touch of indulgence.

What is aalu kerau tarkari?

Aalu kerau tarkari is a spicy potato and green pea curry that embodies the essence of Nepali comfort food. Made with boiled potatoes and fresh or dried green peas (kerau), the dish is seasoned with turmeric, cumin, coriander, chili powder, and mustard seeds. A touch of garlic, ginger, and fresh coriander enhances its aroma and flavor.

This dish is beloved for its simplicity and versatility. The potatoes absorb the spices beautifully, while the green peas add a burst of sweetness and texture. When paired with swari, aalu kerau tarkari becomes a hearty and satisfying breakfast. Its spicy kick is perfectly complemented by a cup of hot Nepali tea, making it a favorite among students and workers alike.

The cultural significance

This breakfast combination of haluwa-swari, jeri-swari, and aalu kerau tarkari holds a unique place in the food culture of Kathmandu Valley. Rooted in the Newar community, it represents a blend of traditional flavors and modern-day convenience. While the Newars are renowned for their elaborate feasts and unique culinary practices, this breakfast showcases their ability to create balanced and wholesome meals that are both delicious and practical.

In the bustling streets of Kathmandu, small tea shops and eateries serve this breakfast to locals and visitors alike. It’s common to see people gathered around, sipping hot tea and savoring each bite of haluwa-swari or jeri-swari, often while engaging in animated conversations. For students and young professionals, this breakfast offers a sense of comfort and nostalgia, evoking memories of simpler times.

For many, this breakfast is not just about the food. It’s about the memories it carries. It takes one back to the early mornings in Kathmandu, the warmth of a bustling tea shop, and the camaraderie of friends. It’s a reminder of the small luxuries that brought immense joy during student life—a time when every bite was savored not just for its taste but for the connection it fostered.

As a student from Pokhara living in Kathmandu, the absence of home-cooked meals often made this breakfast a cherished ritual. It was more than just sustenance. It was a moment of solace and indulgence amidst the challenges of academic life. Even today, living far from Nepal, the thought of haluwa-swari, jeri-swari, and aalu kerau tarkari evokes a deep sense of longing and pride in the culinary heritage of Kathmandu Valley.

Why hasn’t this breakfast gone global?

While Nepali momo have gained international fame, this iconic breakfast has yet to make its mark globally. One reason could be the intricacy involved in preparing these dishes, especially the perfect swari and the syrup-soaked jeri. Additionally, the breakfast’s cultural context and deep-rooted connection to Kathmandu’s street food culture make it challenging to replicate the same experience elsewhere.

However, this also adds to its charm. The exclusivity of haluwa-swari, jeri-swari, and aalu kerau tarkari keeps it special, preserving its status as a beloved breakfast of Kathmandu Valley. For those who have moved away from Nepal, the nostalgia associated with this breakfast keeps it alive in their hearts, even if it is not readily available.

Haluwa-swari, jeri-swari, and aalu kerau tarkari are a celebration of Nepali culinary artistry and a testament to the rich food culture of Kathmandu Valley. For those who have experienced it, this breakfast is a cherished memory, a taste of home, and a symbol of simpler, happier times. While it may not yet have traveled globally like momo, its significance remains unparalleled for those who hold it close to their hearts.

The author is a London-based R&D chef