Nostalgia of gudpak

In his famous poem on Nepal’s societal and political dynamics, Bhupi Sherchan described the country as ‘hallai halla ko desh’ (land of uproar and rumors). Reflecting on that sentiment, there was a time when whispers spread about Indian sweet shop owners allegedly conspiring against Nepal’s gudpak industry. This was during a crackdown by the Department of Food Technology and Quality Control (DFTQC) on gudpak shops in Kathmandu’s New Road in September 2011.

The raids unearthed alarming levels of toxins, bacteria, and acidic elements in gudpak, which could cause food poisoning. Shop owners faced legal battles and imprisonment, leaving many to believe it marked the end of this beloved Nepali delicacy. But gudpak proved resilient, making a remarkable comeback despite the setbacks.

For me, gudpak is more than just a sweet treat. It’s a comforting slice of my childhood, infused with nostalgia. Living in the UK, I often try to replicate its taste with Indian or Pakistani sweets like habsi haluwa. But nothing quite matches the unique charm of gudpak. Every bite reminds me of Kathmandu, where it was not just food but an emotional and communal experience.

Back in the day, gudpak was a treasured gift. Whenever someone traveled from Pokhara to Kathmandu, the one repeated request was, “Bring back gudpak.” It wasn’t merely a snack but a symbol of love, capable of lighting up entire households. I recall waiting eagerly for my uncle’s visits, certain he’d bring that familiar box of gudpak. It wasn’t just our family that celebrated. Even neighbors joined in on the excitement. Gudpak, in those moments, was about more than taste—it was about shared joy and community.

Though many renowned Gudpak shops in Kathmandu have closed, the sweet remains alive in my memories. Gudpak is a part of my identity, tying me to Kathmandu’s bustling streets and my childhood in Nepal.

The story of gudpak’s creation is as layered as the sweet itself. Some believe it emerged from Nepali confectioners’ creativity, blending leftover sweets into a harmonious new recipe. Others trace its origins to the early 20th century, crediting Panna Lal Maskey, who introduced gudpak to Kathmandu in 1933 at his Ason shop. The name itself derives from ‘gud’ (jaggery or edible gum) and ‘pak(h)’ (the process of cooking). This innovative fusion secured gudpak’s place in Nepal’s culinary heritage.

Gudpak starts with a creamy base of khuwa or khoa, made from buffalo or cow milk, renowned for its rich texture and flavor. The finest khuwa, often sourced from Banepa or Panauti, can even stand alone as a treat. Nuts, dried fruits, and spices—like almonds, cashews, dates, and watermelon seeds—are then folded into it. The result is a fragrant, caramel-colored delight, best enjoyed fresh for its gooey and soft texture.

Modern gudpak production has evolved, with gas stoves replacing traditional wood-fired methods. While techniques have changed, the essence of gudpak—a nutrient-dense, flavorful confection—remains intact.

Among gudpak varieties, sutkeri gudpak holds special significance. Made specifically for new mothers, it includes herbs like battisa powder (a blend of 32 herbs) and jesthalangwadi (another 14-herb mix). It’s believed to support postpartum recovery, providing energy, warmth, and immunity. Even today, it’s a cherished gift for new mothers, symbolizing nourishment and care.

Gudpak is a cultural emblem. A 2010 survey revealed that gudpak was particularly popular among the Newa community, often featuring in celebrations and festivals. Annually, about 579 metric tonnes of Gudpak are produced, with the industry valued at Rs 192.5 million. A kilogram of quality gudpak sells for around Rs 800, reflecting its continued importance in Nepali culture.

Despite its cultural significance, the gudpak industry faces challenges. Many iconic shops have closed due to competition from Indian sweets and Western desserts. However, stalwarts like Shree Ganesh Mithai Pasal and Best Mithai Sweet Shop continue to uphold the tradition, catering to loyal customers with authentic gudpak and pustakari.

Gudpak’s legacy endures, connecting generations and preserving its place in Nepal’s culinary and cultural landscape. In Kathmandu, gudpak remains a beloved treat, especially during festivals and as a gift for loved ones.

Whenever I long for home, I close my eyes and relive the sweet memory of gudpak—its rich flavor and emotional resonance tethering me to my roots in Nepal. It’s more than a confection. It’s an irreplaceable part of my life and identity.