Durga Prasai, BRI, medical tourism and more

Nov 20

Mid Baneshwor, Kathmandu

Newspaper readership might be declining, but in Kathmandu’s tea shops, the headlines are still the spark for lively gossip. I’ve been noticing this ever since I started writing this column. That’s why tea shop owners make sure there’s at least one fresh newspaper on hand every morning—it’s as essential as the tea itself.

The other day, I stepped into a small tea shop in Mid-Baneshwor. It was quiet, just two people sipping tea. When one of them left, I worried the shop might be too empty to gather a decent story. But the man sitting next to me saved the day. He grabbed a copy of Naya Patrika and blurted out: “This is what happens in Nepal all the time. It’s unfair!”

The headline he was reacting to reported political meddling in the investigation of cooperative fraud. Apparently, only opposition leaders were being targeted, while ruling party leaders were conveniently off the hook. He was especially riled up about the arrest of Rabi Lamichhane, the chairman of the Rastriya Swatantra Party, calling it a politically motivated move.

Soon, another patron chimed in, steering the conversation toward corruption during the Panchayat era. He claimed the final years of the regime were riddled with shady deals, especially as the country transitioned to a multi-party democracy in 1990. According to him, revenue offices became cash cows for politicians, with prime ministers cutting deals to place senior officials there in exchange for a slice of the earnings.

Just then, three regulars strolled in, greeting the owner as they made themselves comfortable. The focus shifted to Durga Prasai’s recent arrest. Opinions were flying in all directions. Some defended the government’s move, while others speculated it was an attempt to suppress a rally Prasai had planned. One man brought up Prasai’s claims about Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli having stakes in a Cambodian telecom company. While some dismissed it as nonsense, others argued that Oli’s past visits to Cambodia and the involvement of Nepali businesspeople made it worth investigating.

At this point, someone brought up how easy it is to fake documents and media nowadays. “Deepfakes,” I interjected. That word caught their attention, and I explained what I knew about the technology. Then I slipped back into listening mode as the debate continued.

The conversation took a personal turn when an older man joined us and ordered tea without sugar. He shared how diabetes had been a constant battle for him over the past decade. “It’s tough being alone,” he said. His wife had passed away five years ago, and his children were settled abroad in Canada and Australia. His son was in town for Dashain, mainly to get some dental work done because healthcare is so expensive overseas.

This opened the floodgates to a discussion on medical tourism. One man remarked how even wealthy Nepalis return home for affordable treatment. The conversation turned to lifestyle changes, with some advocating dietary adjustments over exercise. The tea shop owner joined in, admitting he also had diabetes but relied solely on medication.

Talk of health gave way to real estate woes. The older man mentioned trying to sell land in the far-western region but lamented the sluggish market. “Nobody’s buying unless it’s for building a house,” he said. A man from Kavre added that the recent floods and landslides had made things worse. Showing photos on his phone, he pointed out how risky it was to invest in flood-prone areas now. For once, everyone agreed.

The tea shop owner eventually joined the chat, venting about the government declaring a public holiday to mourn a former speaker’s death—after office hours had already started. “What’s the point?” he grumbled. The topic fizzled out quickly, though, with most patrons uninterested.

Finally, the discussion turned to politics, as it always does. The ruling CPN-UML’s decision to hold street protests on November 22 came under fire. “Why is a ruling party blocking roads?” one man asked. Another accused the UML of giving Durga Prasai too much attention. As they debated the party’s stance on China’s Belt and Road Initiative (BRI), my time ran out. I had to leave for a meeting, but the conversation was still going strong when I stepped out.

Once again, the tea shop had delivered—a microcosm of Kathmandu’s concerns, debates, and daily life, all over a cup of tea.