Adventurous journey to Gosaikunda during festive holiday

Holidays in Nepal, especially Dashain and Tihar, are becoming an opportunity for travel enthusiasts to explore the country’s natural beauty and experience its rich cultures and traditions. I recently embarked on a five-day trek to Gosaikunda in Rasuwa, starting from Sundarijal in Kathmandu with a group of friends, and the trip was filled with memorable moments and lessons that could be valuable for the Nepal Tourism Board.

Heavy rains just before the Dashain holiday had initially disrupted my travel plans due to the resulting landslides and floods, which cut off roads across the country. The BP Highway, in particular, suffered severe damage, forcing many travelers, especially those from Bagmati and Koshi provinces, to cancel their plans. Given the road conditions and the ongoing monsoon, I had not made any firm plans. However, an old friend unexpectedly called, suggesting we trek to Gosaikunda—one of the places on my bucket list. After discussing the route, we decided to trek from Sundarijal instead of driving to Dhunche, to avoid the risks posed by monsoon rains and dangerous road conditions.

Our trek began at Sundarijal, where we purchased tickets at the army checkpoint for 100 rupees each. After a four-hour walk, we stopped for lunch at Chisapani before continuing on to our first overnight stop at Pati Bhanjyang. Along the way, we encountered a lively couple drinking local alcohol outside their home. Their warmth and hospitality were infectious, and we even shared a brief dance to a folk song they loved. For me, part of the joy of traveling lies in connecting with local communities and their traditions, and this interaction was a perfect example of that.

The hospitality at Pati Bhanjyang was memorable. The homestay owner served us local meat and a uniquely flavored cucumber, and their warm, friendly treatment made the experience even more special. From Pati Bhanjyang, we set off for Kutumsang (altitude 2,470 meters), but the stunning scenery slowed us down. We kept stopping to capture photos, forgetting the time. One challenge in this area is the lack of readily available food—hoteliers usually only prepare meals if informed in advance. However, the people we met along the way made the journey unforgettable. One elderly woman returning from a local Gumba left a deep impression on me, reminding me of my own grandmother who passed away last year. Our conversation brought back fond memories, and as we parted ways, I left a small token of money with her. She blessed me in return, placing her hand on my head, which brought me close to tears.

The three-hour trek from Kutumsang to Mangin Goth (altitude 3,285 meters) was challenging due to the uneven terrain and the aching leg of one of my friends, which worsened when descending. We pushed through, aware of the dangers posed by the dense forest and the presence of wild animals in Langtang National Park. We finally arrived at Mangin Goth at around 6:15 PM, using the light from our mobile phones. The warmth of the hotel, with its central firewood heating system, was a welcome relief after the exhausting day.

The next leg of our journey, from Mangin Goth to Phedi (altitude 3,720 meters), was even more difficult than we had anticipated. The terrain forced us to take frequent breaks. As we neared Phedi at dusk, the roaring sound of water and the flood-damaged paths heightened our anxiety. The couple running the hotel at Phedi had been there for nearly 30 years, and their story was both inspiring and humbling. They served us a surprisingly delicious meal, and we rested, knowing that the next day would involve scaling the highest pass on the route—Laurebina Pass (4,610 meters).

The climate at Laurebina Pass was unpredictable, with thick fog occasionally obscuring the mountains and lakes. But we were lucky, and at times the fog lifted, revealing the breathtaking views we had come for. It felt as though the landscape was playing hide and seek with us.

The scenery was incredible—tall pine trees, blooming flowers, and snow-dusted mountains. During tea breaks, I asked locals whether they had noticed any changes in the snow-covered peaks. Almost everyone mentioned that the snow has been melting rapidly in recent years and no longer lasts as long as it used to. This reminded me of Amitav Ghosh's “The Living Mountain,” which describes how once-resourceful mountains were exploited, leaving them barren.

While the trek to Gosaikunda via Sundarijal is an adventurous experience, there is a lack of information along the way that can frustrate travelers. I would recommend that the local government and relevant authorities promote homestays and encourage locals to sell homegrown products. Additionally, they should install clear signage and information along the route to prevent confusion. The disparity in treatment between foreign and local tourists should also be addressed to help boost domestic tourism. Finally, the route from Dhunche to Gosaikunda, though well-serviced in terms of lodging and food, should be extended to a three-day trek instead of two, to reduce the risk of altitude sickness for travelers.