Delightful dhakani

While browsing an electronic version of the book Home Chefs of the World—Rice and Rice-based Recipes, published by the International Rice Institute (IRRI) and the International Women’s Organization, I found myself captivated by this 33-year-old collection. As a lifelong lover of rice, I was thoroughly enjoying it when I came across a small write-up by Sushila Pradhan on a dish called Dhakani. I suddenly realized that I had missed out on this dish during ‘darr’, the special feast held before the fasting day of Teej which was celebrated recently.

Traditionally, Haritalika Teej celebrates the divine union of Shiva and Parvati. During this festival, Hindu women from the hills (except for Hindu Newar) fast for 24 hours without food or water, seeking special blessings from Lord Shiva for a good husband and for the longevity and prosperity of their spouse. Nowadays, however, Teej has evolved into a celebration of womanhood, observed by women across Nepal, from the Madhesh to the hills and mountains, transcending ethnic boundaries. The darr feast, which was once a single-day affair, has become a month-long gathering for women.

Dhakani was traditionally eaten at midnight before Teej because its heaviness sustained fasting women for 24 hours. During the Teej festival, women don vibrant red saris, gather to sing and dance, and fast while praying for their husband’s well-being. Before the fasting day, they indulge in a feast known as darr, where dhakani is a staple. Rich in calories and nutrients, dhakani provides the energy needed for the day-long fast.

 Dhakani, sometimes called dhakane, can be described as a sweet pulao. It’s said to have originated in eastern Nepal and is known by different names in various regions. Despite its sweetness, it’s not served as a dessert due to its heaviness. Instead, it’s usually served as dinner or lunch during festivals or special occasions.

Growing up, Teej was a distant festival for me, something I observed from afar. My father, a Gurkha lahure, was often away due to his job, but he made sure we were always well provided for. My mother, who had lived in Kashmir, understood the value of rich foods and had a unique talent for selecting the finest ingredients. My maternal family, with roots in Burma, also celebrated festivals with grandeur, and my thulo mama (uncle) was a self-taught chef who delighted in creating culinary masterpieces. Despite these rich experiences, I rarely participated directly in Teej celebrations.

 That changed during my college years in Kathmandu, Nepal. One rainy monsoon day, still dressed in our college uniforms, my cousin invited me to her home for Teej. As we walked through the rain-soaked streets, I saw women in vibrant red saris singing and dancing, their joy contagious.

 At my thulo mama’s home, I was immediately greeted by the rich aroma of something warm and sweet. It was dhakani, simmering on the stove, prepared by my uncle with his usual enthusiasm. I still remember the delight of tasting that dish for the first time—the sweetness of sugarcane molasses, the soft, creamy rice, the crunch of cashews and raisins, the fragrant hint of cardamom, and the subtle kick from black pepper. It was simple yet luxurious and, for me, a revelation.

Ingredients:

1 cup rice (Anadai ko chamal)

2 tablespoons butter (ghee)

1 cup khudo (sugarcane molasses)

4 cups milk

2 tablespoons dry coconut, grated and sliced

2 tablespoons cashews

2 tablespoons raisins

1 teaspoon black pepper

4 green cardamom pods

Steps:

• Begin by soaking the rice in water overnight. This softens the rice, allowing it to absorb flavors better during cooking. After soaking, drain the rice and set it aside.
• In a medium-sized pan, heat the butter (ghee) over medium heat. Add the drained rice and sauté for about a minute until the rice is lightly coated with butter.
• Once the rice begins to dry slightly, add the sugarcane molasses, grated and sliced dry coconut, black pepper, and crushed cardamom pods. Stir continuously for another two to three minutes to ensure the molasses dissolves and all ingredients blend well.
• Add the milk to the pan and bring it to a gentle boil. Stir occasionally to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom.
• Once the milk comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and let it simmer. Cook until the milk is mostly absorbed and the rice becomes tender and creamy. Stir occasionally to ensure even cooking.
• Once the rice is fully cooked, remove the pan from heat. Add cashews and raisins for a delightful contrast of textures. Transfer the dhakani to a serving platter. Enjoy it warm or at room temperature.
• With proper research and promotion, Dhakani could be preserved and popularized as a Nepali food gift (koseli), similar to how peda from Barmajhiya or pustakari has gained recognition. This dish could surely become popular among national, local, and international tourists as a ready-to-eat delicacy from Nepal.

 The author is a London-based research and development chef