Saving the legacy of Ram Bhandar

Imagine Kathmandu before the infamous Kot Massacre on September 14, 1846. Brisharaj Rajkarnikar, a man from the Newar Uray community of Yala (Patan), was experimenting with sweets. He shared his creations with family and neighbors, and soon, word of his expertise reached the royal palace.

Brisharaj was summoned to the court, where his sweets became a favorite among the king, queen, and other royals. After the Kot Parba, he was called back to the palace to resume his role as the royal sweet-maker under the new ruler, Jung Bahadur. One day, while working in the kitchen, Brisharaj met Maharaja Jung Bahadur and seized the opportunity to get approval to open a sweet shop. Thus, in 1848, Ram Bhandar was born.

However, maintaining the quality that has been a hallmark of the shop for over 175 years is challenging. Sixty-nine-year-old Divakar Rajkarnikar is Brisharaj’s great-grandson and the current owner of Ram Bhandar. However, things are far from sweet sailing at the sweet shop today. There are many challenges in maintaining quality, Divakar ‘dai’ (elder brother) told me on the phone. He explained that sourcing high-quality raw materials has become increasingly difficult, and finding and retaining skilled human resources is another hurdle.

Ram Bhandar, named after Lord Ram and featuring a logo with a bow and arrow, has long been a symbol of Nepali culture. Located in Thapathali, Kathmandu, the shop has been famous for sweets like jeri, swari, malpuwa, selroti, lakhamari, lalmohan, and gund-paak. After the collapse of its original location, the shop found a new home on the banks of the Bagmati River, thanks to the Ranas. The shop’s association with Nepal’s royal families further cemented its reputation.

Sweets hold a special place in Nepali culture, and Ram Bhandar’s offerings, especially the rasa-madhuri, have become essential to celebrations, festivals, and personal milestones. The Rajkarnikar family has preserved traditional recipes and techniques, avoiding artificial colors and preservatives. Divakar dai recalled how his father and grandfather would personally deliver sweets to customers who couldn’t visit the shop, a tradition of personal touch that continues to this day.

To adapt to modern times, the family has invested in new equipment, including cold rooms to ensure freshness. Divakar dai’s son, who holds an MBA from Australia, has returned to help blend tradition with modernity for the shop’s continued success. Ram Bhandar also plays a vital role in local empowerment, employing 18 people, 40 percent of whom are women.

Despite competition from Indian sweets and unhealthy industry practices, the Rajkarnikar family’s commitment to quality and tradition remains strong. There is potential for Ram Bhandar to expand internationally, bringing Nepali sweets to a global audience through franchising or establishing outlets in Nepali communities abroad. Ram Bhandar’s story is a remarkable journey of tradition, quality, and cultural significance. For over 175 years, the Rajkarnikar family has maintained a legacy that spans generations, making Ram Bhandar a beloved institution in Nepal.

Divakar dai says, “Nepali people remember Ram Bhandar no matter where they live. Even today, Nepalis living abroad order sweets online for Dashain, Tihar, or on Aama/Ba ko Mukh Herne Din (Mother’s Day and Father’s Day respectively), and we deliver them to their loved ones. When they return to Nepal, they visit our shop, and a taste of jeri swari brings back childhood nostalgia or memories of student life.”

Ram Bhandar’s legacy is built on the love and trust of its customers. The business isn’t just about making money. It’s about continuing a 175-year tradition and four generations of dedication, moving forward with moral responsibility. Franchising opportunities and establishing outlets in Nepali communities abroad could be viable paths for growth.

Ram Bhandar’s journey from a small home business to Nepal’s oldest sweet shop is a remarkable story of tradition, quality, and cultural significance. Its sweets are a connection to the past, a celebration of the present, and a promise for the future. With a rich history and unwavering commitment to excellence, Ram Bhandar remains an integral part of Nepal’s cultural and culinary landscape.

Baral is a UK-based R&D chef