Nepal is a fusion of cultures, boasting one of the most vibrant food scenes in the world. Our cuisine is a rich, diverse culinary heritage, not just a blend of different cultures but a delightful mix of flavors, colors, and aromas. Every region in Nepal has its unique dishes, and even within the same cultural family, the food can vary.

Most people from the hills of Nepal are familiar with ‘masaura,’ which are fermented sun-dried vegetable balls made from various minced vegetables and black lentils. However, many are not familiar with ‘biriya’, a pride of Mithila. Recently, during my visit to Nepal, I had the chance to taste biriya in Kathmandu. I loved it.

Biriya is a dry green vegetable dish eaten during the rainy season. Like masaura, women gather green vegetables, let them wither slightly, wrap them in black gram paste, and let them dry during the winter. The dried biriya is stored in a dry place and used as an alternative vegetable during the rainy season when fresh vegetables are scarce.

This practice follows the saying wrap and dry vegetables when they are found in abundance. People collect mustard leaves, broadleaf mustard, and grass peas, let them wither, and wrap them in black gram flour paste.

Mithila food is gaining popularity, but do you know what Mithila food is? Or where Mithila is? It’s not just another form of ‘dal-bhat and tarkari.’ Mithila lies in the foothills of the Sivalik or Churia range of the outer Himalayas and is fed by many rivers. The river water adds fertility to the soil, making it ideal for agriculture and fish farming. Every village has multiple ponds for fish farming. Mithila has its own natural adaptation of land and climate.

While browsing the internet, I found that in the 11th century, Jyotirishwar Thakur wrote two books, ‘Varnaratnakar’ and ‘Prakriti Paingalam’, in which he explained Maithil cuisine, especially the love for fish and curd. The great Mithila poet Vidyapati of the 13th century is also said to have mentioned different Maithil foods in his books.

Some friends from Mithila have shared a famous proverb: ‘Maachh, paan, aur makhaan, e teen ta aichh Mithila ke jaan,’ which means ‘fish, betel, and water-lily seeds are the most special delicacies of Mithila’.

The Maithil plate, or thali, includes rice, wheat, fish, and sweet dishes, using various spices, herbs, and natural edibles. No meal within the Maithil community is considered complete without leafy dishes known as saag. Our cuisine celebrates saag: bathua, laal saag, patua saag, genhari, karmi, and sariso saag. Leafy curries like colocasia curry (arikanchan or kanch in Maithili) or leafy fritters (tarua) made from ivy gourd leaves or pumpkin flowers are favorite accompaniments.

Returning to biriya, it is made from different leafy vegetables like bathua and methi, dipped in urad and besan paste, and sun-dried. Biriya pods can also be made from khesari saag (Indian grass pea leaves, Lathyrus sativus). Although the sale and storage of grass pea seeds are banned in Nepal and India due to their neurotoxin content, the leaves are safe and still used in rural kitchens to make biriya.

Here’s how to make biriya at home. It’s a recipe I learned when I first tried biriya in Kathmandu recently.

Ingredients:

10 to 15 Biriya pods

300 g potatoes, chopped

3 tbsp mustard paste

1 tbsp garlic paste

1 tsp turmeric powder

Chilli powder, to taste

1 tsp mustard seeds

2 bay leaves

2 tbsp mustard oil

Method:

Heat mustard oil in a pan, stir-fry the biriya pods lightly, and set them aside.

Add more oil, mustard seeds, and bay leaves to the pan. When the seeds begin to crackle, add the potatoes and fry.

Add mustard and garlic paste, then fry with the potatoes. Add turmeric, salt, and chili powder.

Cook for a few minutes, then add two to three glasses of water. Stir gently, cover, and simmer until it reaches your desired consistency.

Serve your Maithil-style biriya curry with hot rice. Sliced onions on the side make a great accompaniment.

Enjoy the flavors of Mithila with this traditional dish.

The author is UK-based research and development chef