Janti bakhro: A vanishing tradition

Generation Alpha might ask, “What is janti bakhro?” Generation Z will probably say, “I’ve heard about it but never tasted it.” For Generation X (1965–1980), the term itself brings nostalgia. Janti bakhro is a vanishing tradition, a culinary culture that faded during Nepal’s ten-year-long Maoist war.

 Imagine hot rice on a leaf plate and cooked goat meat—so hot that it burns your fingers and tongue. The memory of eating this delicious dish while the sauce leaked from the leaf plate remains vivid for many. Today, the custom of eating janti bakhro has largely disappeared. Instead, from villages to cities, wedding parties are now grand affairs with elaborate feasts.

 In the past, meat was a rare treat in most homes, typically cooked only during Dashain. However, when there was a wedding in a farmer’s household, a male goat would be slaughtered, and people from three to four villages would be invited. The goat meat would be used to prepare large pots of meat soup. This soup, along with rice, was served in leaf plates. As the rice soaked up the soup, the leaf plates would often leak, adding to the fun of eating. Each guest would receive a small piece of meat, a rare delicacy for many.

 When I was eight years old, my father was away, so I often attended weddings, rituals, and celebrations on his behalf as the eldest son. I still remember a particular wedding in Gorkha during my school holidays. It was a night wedding and a bus was arranged for the occasion. After the wedding ceremony, our bus made a stop, and all the janti (wedding guests) came together to prepare a simple meal of rice and goat curry.

 There were more than 150 hungry people but we somehow managed to cook everything within an hour. To ensure there was enough for everyone, we added a lot of soup to the goat curry. Instead of the usual spices, we used mustard cake (pina) to thicken the curry, which intrigued me as I was already interested in cooking.

 The experience of eating janti bakhro was unforgettable. The rice was cooked in a traditional Nepali pot called a ‘taulo’ or ‘khadkulo’ used for special occasions. We were served steaming hot rice and runny goat curry on leaf plates. The curry was spicy and aromatic with mustard, and the rice was overcooked. The challenge was to eat quickly before the sauce leaked from the leaf plates. Despite the haste, the flavors were incredible, and the meal was deeply satisfying, especially knowing it would be my last for the next 18 hours.

 This experience, which happened 36 years ago, is etched in my memory. The sights, aromas, and tastes are as clear as if it happened yesterday. This janti bakhro culture inspired me profoundly. I believe this dish should be featured on every restaurant menu in Nepal. It’s simple, easy to cook, and incredibly tasty. It represents a piece of our heritage that should not be forgotten. Let’s bring this traditional dish into the mainstream and celebrate its unique flavors and the communal spirit of cooking and eating together.

 Ingredients

780 gm goat meat (mixed and with bone)

120 ml mustard oil

5 gm fenugreek seeds

80 gm onion, finely sliced

20 gm garlic-ginger paste

120 gm tomato

5 gm turmeric powder

7.5 gm cumin powder

7.5 gm red chili powder

5 gm nutmeg powder

1.5 liters water

Mustard paste (to thicken)

100 gm mustard cake (also called Pina)

Salt to taste

10 ml lemon juice

Coriander leaves (roughly cut, for garnish)

 Instructions

Heat mustard oil in a pan and add fenugreek seeds. Let them sputter until they turn dark. Add finely sliced onions and goat meat, and sauté until dry. Add salt and garlic-ginger paste. When the mixture turns golden brown, add all the powdered spices and tomatoes. Cook until the tomatoes melt and form a thick sauce. Add water and cook until the meat is tender. Thicken the curry with mustard cake. Just before serving, squeeze lemon juice and garnish with coriander leaves.

 The author is UK-based research and development chef