Katiya mutton: A missed branding opportunity

Have you heard about Katiya mutton? Of course, you have. But have you heard about Katahariya town in the Rautahat district? Probably not. Despite being the birthplace of the Katiya mutton recipe, Katahariya has struggled to brand its culinary heritage properly. As a result, what was originally known as Katiya mutton is now gaining fame under the name Champaran meat.

Katiya mutton is a traditional dish featuring slow-cooked goat meat prepared in a ‘handi’, a type of clay pot. The meat is marinated with onions, garlic, and a blend of whole spices including ginger, coriander, bay leaf, cloves, dried chili, red chili powder, turmeric, cumin, and mustard oil. This cooking method and the unique combination of spices impart a distinct flavor to the dish.

A few years ago, Champaran meat was virtually unknown. Today, Indian chefs claim the dish originated in Ghorasahan, a village near the Indo-Nepal border in East Champaran. Renowned Indian journalist Vir Sanghvi once wrote about Champaran meat, quoting famous chef Manish Mehrotra, who is originally from Bihar. Mehrotra said, “When I was growing up in Patna, I had never even heard of this dish. Even when I traveled in Bihar, it never turned up. Yes, there were dishes like taash kabab. But this Champaran meat? Never.”

This new identity for Katiya mutton seems to be a result of rebranding. Despite this, many chefs and food writers agree that the best Champaran meat is made with Nepali goat, which is known for its superior quality.

For centuries, the people of Maithil, Bhojpuri, Rajbanshi, and Tharu communities have been cooking Katiya mutton. This dish, steeped in tradition, is prepared by slow-cooking the mutton in clay pots over a coal bed. This method is essential to achieve the dish’s rich, smoky flavor.

The transition from Katiya mutton to Champaran meat is a tale of missed branding opportunities. Despite the dish’s origins in Katahariya, the lack of proper marketing has led to its association with Champaran. This shift underscores the importance of recognizing and preserving culinary heritage.

Making Katiya mutton

Below is a detailed recipe for Katiya mutton, intended to serve three people. If you want to make it for six, just double the ingredients.

Ingredients:

•       1 head of garlic, 5-6 pieces

•       50 gm ginger paste

•       2-3 pieces dried red chili

•       1-2 bay leaves

•       4 pieces black pepper

•       2 cloves

•       1 or ½ inch cinnamon stick

•       2 cardamom pods

•       1 tablespoon coriander seeds

•       1 tablespoon cumin seeds

•       300-400 gm chopped onion

•       1 tablespoon turmeric powder

•       1 tablespoon garam masala

•       ½ tablespoon fennel seeds

•       Salt to taste

•       500 gm medium-sized mutton pieces

•       5-6 tablespoons mustard oil

•       1 tablespoon butter

Instructions:

Prepare the clay pot. Make sure your pot is of suitable size and has a lid. Immerse it in water for more than 20 minutes.

Season the pot. After soaking, dry the pot slightly by heating and apply a thin layer of mustard oil inside the pot.

Add Aromatics. Pour the garlic and ginger paste into the pot along with the dried red chili.

Add the bay leaf, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, chopped onion, turmeric powder, garam masala, fennel seeds, and salt.

Add the Mutton. Drizzle five to six tablespoons of mustard oil over the meat.

Cover the pot with its lid and place it over burnt hot coal. Cook for approximately two hours, stirring the meat two to three times during the cooking process.

While cooking, add a head of garlic and a spoonful of butter to enhance the flavor.

After two hours, remove the lid and check if the meat is tender. If not, cover and cook for another five to10 minutes. Cook uncovered for the last five minutes.

Finally, garnish the dish with fresh green coriander. Serve with salad, pickle, beaten rice, or roti.

The unique preparation method and the distinctive taste of Katiya mutton deserve to be celebrated. As more people discover the rich flavors of this traditional dish, it is crucial to acknowledge its true origins in Katahariya. By doing so, we can ensure that the cultural and culinary heritage of this region is preserved for future generations.

Moving forward, there is a pressing need to re-establish the connection between Katiya mutton and Katahariya. This can be achieved through increased awareness, proper branding, and the celebration of this dish in its true form. By highlighting its authentic origins and the traditional methods of preparation, Katiya mutton can reclaim its rightful place in the culinary world.

In conclusion, while Champaran meat continues to gain popularity, it is essential to remember and honor its roots in Katahariya. The rich history and unique preparation of Katiya mutton make it a dish worth celebrating and preserving. I wish we could rebrand our Katiya mutton and share it with the world.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef