In many Nepali communities, ‘jaad’ (beer) holds deep associations with God and nature worship. It features prominently in various rituals, from birth to death, and is even considered a purifier of spirit and body. You could say jaad holds a sacred status within many Nepali communities.

Nepali alcoholic beverages primarily fall into two categories: fermented (commonly called jaaḍ) and fermented and distilled (known as raksi). Raksi, scientifically classified as ethyl alcohol, is derived from jaad, earning it the title “mother of all raksi.” But what gives life to jaad? Grains like corn, millet, wheat, barley, and rice, or perhaps fruits, or the special yeast called ‘marcha’?

The jaad-making process begins with the meticulous cleaning of the chosen grains. These are then boiled in a metal pot (preferably copper) until cooked through and imbued with a delightful flavor. This cooking breaks down the starch in the grains, preparing them for the next crucial step which is fermentation.

Once the cooked grains cool to room temperature, the unique marcha (yeast) is introduced. The mixture is thoroughly stirred and sealed in a container for fermentation, which can last anywhere from two weeks to even longer.

During fermentation, the marcha devours the natural sugars present in the grains, transforming them into alcohol. This is precisely why marcha plays such a vital role in crafting this alcoholic beverage. To accelerate this process and ensure the yeast thrives, the container is kept in a warm environment, providing the ideal temperature for the chemical reaction.

Fruits like apples, bananas, peaches, wild berries, and apricots can also be substituted for grains. However, when using fruits, the cooking process is skipped. Instead, the fruits are mixed directly with marcha to initiate fermentation.

Fermentation is a fascinating process where microscopic organisms like yeast or marcha (sometimes even bacteria) act like miniature chefs, using the sugars in ingredients to bake a unique treat: alcohol, the ‘fizz’ we enjoy in the drink. While it may seem simple, this process demands days of dedicated effort, traditionally carried out by the skilled hands of Nepali women.

Marcha, known as ‘okhati’ in the local language, translates to ‘medicine.’ The quality of jaad directly depends on the quality of this yeast cake. Some even use charcoal to enhance the jaad’s flavor. The scientific rationale behind this lies in charcoal’s ability to absorb unwanted odors and colors, similar to how good wines and whiskeys are aged in charred oak barrels.

Many have documented the okhati (marcha) making process, traditionally passed down from mothers to daughters. The sheer variety of plants and herbs used is extensive. Food scientists and students of the Himalayan region often cite the research article ‘Plants used in murcha preparation in Eastern Nepal’ by J. B. KC, D. K. Subba, and B. K. Rai (published in 2001) for the raw materials involved. This paper lists 38 diverse species, ranging from Abhijalo (Drymaria cordata), Adhuwa (Zingiber officinale), Anaras (Ananas comosus), shoots of Ghodtapre (Centella asiatica L), Wild Leaf (Kurilo Asparagus racemosus) to many types of Unyu (Pteridium revolutum). The paper focuses solely on the eastern region, highlighting the vastness of marcha knowledge waiting to be explored across Nepal.

Nepali women begin by collecting herbs from the jungle, followed by a meticulous cleaning and drying process. Ground rice or millet is then mixed with these herbs, sometimes incorporating a touch of old Marcha (Joran) for added depth. Round-shaped cakes are formed and placed in dry locations, often on rice hay or phiraunay leaves, before being stored in a warm environment. In some villages, these cakes are covered with rice hay or cloth to simulate a ‘fever’ of 38-40°C, providing the ideal warm temperature. After seven to eight days, the marcha is ready for use.

This generational knowledge of home brewing, including marcha making, has thrived even without formal scientific understanding. While the general masses who practice it may not grasp the intricacies of fermentation, their cultural heritage keeps this tradition alive.

A recent news story mentioned Minister for Industry, Commerce, and Supplies Ramesh Rijal’s plan to promote the sale of domestic liquor through product branding. He aims to support small and domestic industries in this endeavor, considering Nepal’s annual imports of alcoholic beverages reach nearly two billion Nepali rupees.

However, before commercialization, it’s crucial to safeguard the knowledge behind these traditions. We must document the scientific understanding of the process, and its raw materials, and develop standardized production procedures and quality control systems. We need to develop a scientific production process and a quality management system. I believe we are a bit lagging on issues related to hygiene, so we should also focus on hygienic design, packaging, and distribution systems.

The government should determine production standards and quality for domestic alcohol, and also make arrangements for promoting sales in a way that benefits actual farmers. This will ensure the cultural knowledge of brewing and marcha making is preserved as well as help the industry flourish.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef