The roots of Aaitha Mari and Khurma

While exploring the streets of Istanbul, Turkey, I stumbled upon a charming sweetshop. Intrigued, I gestured towards one of the displayed sweets and placed an order. The friendly shopkeeper handed it to me with a big smile. Upon taking the first bite, a familiar taste reminiscent of my home country brought a smile to my face.

Later, I discovered that the sweet was Sekerpare (sheh-kehr-PAH-rih), a pastry that evoked the flavors of our own Aaitha (Lha) Mari, and Khurma Roti. So, what’s the connection between Turkish Sekerpare and Nepali Aaitha Mari? Sekerpare came to Turkey from Iran, where it is known as Shekarbura. The Persian words ‘shekar’ means sugar and ‘bura’ means to carve, cut, or split. In India, it’s called Shakharpara, with Northern India naming it Khurma, the same sweet made in our country during the Tihar festival.

The term ‘khurma’ translates to dates in Persian, indicating its Persian roots. Dates are a common ingredient in Northern Indian Khurma, providing a subtle sweetness and a soft texture to this delicacy. Over time, Khurma made its way into the kitchens of various Indian regions, each contributing its regional flavors and techniques to this beloved treat.

The basic ingredients for making Khurma include all-purpose flour, semolina, ghee, sugar, and various aromatic spices. These elements come together to create a deep-fried, pastry-like sweet, characterized by its crispy yet melt-in-your-mouth texture.

While the basic recipe remains consistent across India, variations of Khurma can be found in different states. In Rajasthan, for instance, a variation called Rajasthani Shakarpara incorporates the use of milk along with traditional ingredients, giving it a softer texture and appealing to those who prefer a chewier treat.

In South India, Khurma is often referred to as ‘Nei Urundai’ or Ghee Balls. Here, the sweet is prepared by rolling small portions of dough into round shapes, which are then coated with powdered sugar or coconut flakes. These bite-sized delights are perfect for festive occasions and are often enjoyed with a cup of aromatic filter coffee.

As Khurma entered Nepal, it took two separate paths. One followed the North Indian tradition, leading to the creation of Khurma Roti. The other path involved more experimentation with Shakarpara, resulting in the development of Aaitha Mari. The basic ingredients were changed, and an artistic touch was added, giving rise to Lakhamari.

Lakhamari is associated with marriages in the Newar community. In Kathmandu, Newars replace all-purpose flour with rice and lentil flour. Lakhamari is prepared by molding the mixture into various shapes and frying them in ghee or oil. After frying, they are immersed in chasni (sugar syrup) until ready.

The process begins with soaking rice and lentils throughout the day, usually left to soak overnight. The next day, the mixture is ground into a paste to make dough. Mixing water and ghee, the dough is kneaded well. Once it becomes soft, small balls are made and wrapped in cloth pieces. Following this, the Lakhamari dough is shaped in a pan and cooked.

During various festive occasions of Newars, 84 types of bread are prepared, with Lakhamari holding special significance. It serves as a symbol given by the boy’s side to confirm the completion of the marriage to the girl’s side.

The allure of Lakhamari extends beyond its flavors. Its presence in significant life events, especially marriage ceremonies, signifies reverence. It’s showcased prominently as part of the groom’s gifts to the bride’s family, known as ‘sagun.’ The name Lakhamari epitomizes its central role, prominently displayed alongside other ceremonial items, marking its integral place in Nepali traditions.

This revered sweet, with its extended shelf life of three to four months in sealed packets, holds immense export potential for the Nepali diaspora. Its popularity within the Nepali community worldwide provides an opportunity to introduce and showcase Nepali culinary heritage on a global stage. The rising global demand for authentic ethnic foods creates a favorable climate for Lakhamari’s integration into international markets.

The Nepali diaspora can serve as ambassadors for Lakhamari, championing its authenticity and cultural significance. Collaborating with local distributors, employing innovative packaging for prolonged freshness, and strategic marketing emphasizing its rich heritage could facilitate successful export endeavors. Additionally, diversifying flavors and shapes to cater to varied tastes while preserving its essence could broaden its appeal among international audiences.

My experience of treating myself to these delicious snacks, especially Lakhamari, which served as my all-day bites, highlights the enduring connection between food and cherished memories. Food possesses a remarkable ability to evoke emotions and transport us back to moments filled with joy and contentment, reminding us of special times in our lives.

Even after all these years, the flavors and experiences associated with Lakhamari and the meals from Lakhamari Chhen at Sorha Khutte, Kathmandu, remain a nostalgic and treasured part of my past, symbolizing not just a culinary delight but a portal to cherished memories from my college days.The author is a UK-based R&D chef