Preparing ‘pakku masu’

When I was a teenager, I visited my relatives in the hilly region of Kaski during the festive season of Tihar. For brunch, I was served a special dish called pakku meat with rice. I was quite surprised and couldn’t help but ask my aunt, “Did someone in the village make the dish for Tihar?” My aunt explained that the pakku meat had been prepared during the Dashain festival and saved for the occasion of Tihar. I felt privileged to be enjoying the delicious flavors of pakku that had been made about 20 days earlier.

In the past, many middle-class families would traditionally sacrifice a goat during Dashain, but they often couldn’t consume all of it within a few days. Meat was a rare and valuable commodity back then, so they came up with a way to cook the goat meat in fat and preserve it. This culinary tradition was born out of necessity, allowing Nepali families to make their meat last and savor its succulent taste for an extended period. The cold climate of the Nepali hills was also ideal for preserving meat, especially when it was cooked in a mixture of fat, mustard oil, and ghee. The generous use of fat, in my opinion, was the main ingredient that helped preserve the meat until winter.

In contrast to the Indian tradition, our celebration of Navaratri, the nine days of worshiping Shakti or the goddess, involves a lot of meat, alcohol, and food. We celebrate it for more than 10 days, and the most authentic food of Dashain is pakku, the slow-cooked meat in fat.

Pakku meat is a beloved dish that graces Nepali dinner tables during this special season. It’s not just a meal; it represents the heart of Nepali culinary heritage and the skill of preserving flavors.

Pakku meat, a slow-cooked goat dish, plays a pivotal role during Dashain. The preparation of this delectable treat is a labor of love, blending time-tested methods with a unique selection of spices. At the heart of pakku meat’s distinctive flavor lies the secret ingredient: pakku masala. This special spice blend is more than just a seasoning; it’s the soul of the dish, composed of a variety of spices like coriander, bay leaves, fenugreek seeds, dry ginger, garlic, cardamom, cumin, cloves, long pepper, and many more. Each spice contributes to the rich and authentic Nepali flavor that defines pakku masu.

To create pakku meat, one must start with the right ingredients, particularly goat leg pieces, preferably from a young goat. The meat is then marinated with mustard oil, a blend of spices, and aromatic ginger and garlic. The slow-cooking process, often executed in a heavy-bottomed pot or a pressure cooker, allows the flavors to blend. No water is added to the pot, and onions or tomatoes are conspicuously absent during the cooking process. This extended cooking time yields tender, flavorful meat, eagerly anticipated by Nepali people during Dashain.

One notable aspect of pakku meat is the quantity in which it is prepared. This generous serving size is perfect for hosting extended family and guests who come together to celebrate Dashain. As the dish is reheated and served, its flavors deepen, creating a taste that evolves. The more you reheat it, the darker, richer, and more tender it becomes.

For many Nepali individuals living far from their homeland during Dashain, preparing pakku meat is a way to reconnect with their roots. It’s a journey back home, a method to honor cherished traditions, and a means of sharing a piece of Nepal with their loved ones, no matter where they are in the world.

Pakku meat, with its rich flavors and cultural significance, exemplifies how food can be a source of celebration, connection, and nostalgia. If you’ve never had the pleasure of savoring goat meat or are interested in exploring the diverse facets of Nepali cuisine, don’t hesitate to give pakku meat a try. It’s not just a dish; it’s a part of Nepali tradition and a flavorful celebration of Dashain. It’s worth noting that every family has its unique way of preparing Pakku, and the following is one particular recipe that I hold dear.

Ingredients

Two kg goat meat

Five gm (two tsp) cumin powder

Three gm (1.5 tsp) chili powder

Four gm (two tsp) turmeric powder

Four gm (1.5 tsp) garam masala

16 gm (one tbsp) garlic paste

12 gm (one tbsp) ginger paste

Four bay leaves

Four cloves

Two gm black peppercorns

Two cinnamon sticks

Four black cardamoms

120 ml (eight tbsp) pure mustard oil

120 ml (eight tbsp) ghee (brown butter)

20 gm salt

Method

Begin by marinating the larger pieces of goat meat with mustard oil, garlic, ginger, salt, garam masala powder, cumin powder, chili powder, turmeric powder, and ghee. Allow the meat to marinate for at least four to five hours

Once the marination is complete, place all the marinated meat in a clay pot, ensuring that the lid is tightly sealed. Some cooks add a layer of flour dough around the top to seal it and ensure an airtight vessel. Let the pot simmer over low heat for another four hours.

This recipe is incredibly straightforward, emphasizing the importance of good-quality meat and the use of high-quality ingredients. However, the true magic lies in the cooking technique employed.

Pakku meat is at its best when cooked over an open-fire stove, though this may prove challenging in a city setting. For urban dwellers, a kasaudi (a traditional wood-burning stove) is your best bet to achieve the perfect result. In the lack of these options, a pressure cooker or even a rice cooker can be used. In the case of the latter, simply place all the ingredients in the rice cooker and switch it on. Keep in mind that you may need to use a bit more oil and ghee for the rice cooker preparation.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef​​​​​​​