The aromatic delight that is sidra ko achar

In recent times, a significant shift has been observed in the way Nepali people acquire and prepare fish. Many are now opting to purchase live fish, which they clean at the market before bringing it home to cook. This change in consumer behavior can be attributed to concerns regarding a carcinogenic substance known as formaldehyde solution, or formalin. Indian traders and suppliers have been using formalin to extend the shelf life of fresh or chilled fish, artificially enhancing their sensory attributes.

However, Nepali suppliers have taken a different approach, transporting live fish from regions such as Janakpur, Chitwan, and even as far as Chandrapur to Kathmandu in water tanks. This practice has led to the presence of aquarium tanks in the local fish markets. And this shift in sourcing has made live fish readily available in local markets, where you can now purchase them with ease.

This transformation in the availability of live fish is a relatively recent development. Nepal, a landlocked country surrounded by majestic mountains, boasts numerous rivers but lacks access to the sea. Despite this geographical limitation, fish has always held a special place in Nepali culture. It plays a crucial role in various Nepali rituals, such as Tharu weddings and Newar Mahapuja ceremonies. Fish is an integral part of shagun, a traditional Nepali ritual that blesses individuals through food and drink.

Even though Nepal has lots of rivers and lakes, the availability of live fish has historically been a luxury in the hill regions, including Kathmandu Valley, which is far from the sea. To fulfill cultural rituals, our ancestors turned to dried fish, known as sidra, and combined it with achar, a spicy sauce. While in the Indian context, achar means spicy pickle, in the Nepali context, it can refer to a chutney, spicy sauce, or spicy pickle.

Now, let’s delve into the story of sidra ko achar, the spicy sauce made from dry fish. Dry fish, much like sidra ko achar itself, tends to elicit strong opinions—it’s a dish you either love or love to hate. For those who appreciate it, sidra ko achar stands out for its unique blend of ingredients and distinct aroma.

In my opinion, sidra doesn’t have a bad smell; it’s all about the distinct aroma and cultural essence it brings. You don’t need many ingredients; simply take a piece of sidra and roast it over an open flame to experience the authentic taste of Nepal. You can even transform one kg of tomato chutney into sidra and tomato achar using just one piece of roasted Sidra.

Sidra ko achar isn't just a dish; it’s a culinary tradition passed down through generations. Every Nepali household takes pride in having its version of this delectable creation, reflecting family heritage and regional influences. While the recipe may vary from one kitchen to another, the essence of Sidra Ko Achar remains constant—a celebration of Nepali flavors. It has become a favorite in households across the country, showcasing the art of culinary creativity and the depth of flavor that can be achieved through the harmonious marriage of spices, vegetables, and tradition.

The heart of sidra ko achar lies in its harmonious combination of ingredients. Local sidra varieties, celebrated for their distinct flavors and textures, take center stage. Onions, garlic, green chilies, and tomatoes join the ensemble, each contributing to its unique character. Mustard oil and red dry chilies add depth and an irresistible aroma.

The preparation of sidra ko achar involves a meticulous sequence of steps that gradually build up the dish’s complex flavors. The sidra is gently fried in golden mustard oil until it reaches a tantalizing crispness, creating a flavorful foundation. The sizzle of red dry chilies adds drama to the process as their deepening color signals the imminent arrival of a captivating taste symphony. Chopped garlic and onions join the dance, filling the air with their inviting fragrance. The dish evolves further with the addition of tomatoes, turmeric powder, and cumin powder, weaving a tapestry of flavors that dance on the palate.

As the final notes of this culinary masterpiece approach, fried sidra and timmur powder, derived from Sichuan pepper, are introduced, creating a crescendo of taste that awakens the senses. A squeeze of zesty lemon juice elevates the dish to a new level of vibrancy. Chopped coriander leaves provide a burst of freshness, reminiscent of Nepal’s lush landscapes. The dish is now ready to be savored and shared, embodying the perfect fusion of tradition and innovation.

Sidra ko achar transcends its role as a mere dish; it becomes a journey of taste and togetherness. Each bite encapsulates the essence of Nepali culture, the warmth of family, and the joy of sharing. As the alluring aroma of sidra ko achar permeates Nepali households. It serves as a reminder of the richness embedded in this ancient land—a richness that extends beyond the plate, inviting everyone to savor the beauty of Nepal, one flavorful bite at a time.

In a world where culinary traditions often merge and blend, sidra ko achar remains a steadfast guardian of Nepali heritage. It testifies to the enduring power of tradition, innovation, and the shared human experience of savoring a meal together. So, as you find yourself captivated by the fragrant embrace of sidra ko achar, you not only indulge in a symphony of flavors but also join a timeless celebration of culture, family, and the simple joy of coming together over a shared love for the culinary arts.

The author is a London-based R&D chef