Unraveling the history of samosas

When ‘samosas’, the beloved snack of South Asia, first made their way onto our ancestors’ plates remains a mystery. However, one thing is certain—they didn’t simply fly directly to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Instead, they gradually crossed the Indo-Nepal border and gained popularity as ‘Singada’ in the Madhes region. This delectable treat was referred to as ‘Shingaras’ or ‘Singada’ in the Indian states of Bihar, Bengal, Assam, Odisha, and Jharkhand, due to its resemblance to the shape of the local water chestnut known as ‘Sighara.’ Interestingly, when ‘Singada’ reached the hills of Nepal, it transformed into its original name samosa.

The tradition of inviting skilled craftsmen, known as ‘mistris,’ from India to learn new crafts still exists in Nepal. It’s likely that the sweetshops in Kathmandu invited ‘samosa mistris’ directly from Delhi. As a result, the snack became known as samosa in Kathmandu.

The culinary history in our region is complex and undocumented. It primarily relies on oral tradition, where knowledge is passed down from fathers to sons or through the hands-on experience gained by assisting fathers and uncles in the culinary craft. One prominent figure in this realm is ‘Ghadsiramji,’ also known as ‘Maharaj-ji,’ who introduced the art of cooking Indian dishes to Kathmandu. His renowned establishment, Amrit Bhandar, located in Chokhachhe Galli, Indra Chowk in Kathmandu, was established in 1878 and gained popularity for its delectable offerings like ‘aaludam,’ ‘furandana,’ ‘jalebi,’ and ‘halwa.’ Interestingly, there is no mention of samosas in the oral history, even by his son, the legendary BL Sharma.

Nepal’s open border policy with India has allowed a rich exchange of ideas, culture, and cuisine. Samosa represents the harmonious coexistence of different cultures and has won the hearts of both Nepalis and Indians. It has become a symbol of unity, transcending political boundaries and fostering a shared appreciation for culinary arts.

As Nepal became a popular destination for pilgrims seeking solace at sacred sites like the Pashupatinath Temple and Gautam Buddha’s birthplace in Lumbini, the samosa played an unexpected role in their journeys. Pilgrims from distant lands embarked on challenging treks, and the samosa became a convenient and portable source of sustenance for them. Some believe that the samosa arrived in Nepal with these pilgrims or skilled workers.

Today, when you stroll through the lively streets of Kathmandu, explore the enchanting landscapes of Pokhara, or visit any tiny eatery in Shaphebar or near the tea estate of Ilam, you’ll be greeted by the enticing aroma of freshly fried samosas. These delicious snacks have become popular street food in Nepal and can be found in local eateries, tea shops, and food stalls. They are often served with ‘chutney’ or ‘chhole’ and enjoyed as a snack or part of a meal.

Whether eaten as a quick bite or as part of a traditional feast, the samosa continues to evoke nostalgia, reminding Nepalis of their rich heritage and their nation’s intertwined history. Despite having worked in the UK for nearly 20 years and having traveled extensively, experiencing cuisines from around the globe, I have never encountered the level of satisfaction I experienced while dining at the ASCOL (Amrit Science Campus) canteen. Although they never served piping hot samosas, the taste still lingers in my mouth.

In a land shaped by spirituality, migration, and cultural exchange, the journey of the samosa exemplifies the power of food in bringing people together. As Nepal embraces its diverse heritage, the samosa remains an integral part of its culinary story—a story that transcends borders, unites communities, and celebrates the shared love for delicious food.

Interestingly, despite popular belief, the humble Indian samosa actually originates from Central Asia. Early medieval texts from Persia mention similar snacks called ‘sanbosag’ and ‘samsa,’ which are considered early relatives of the samosas we know today. There are also accounts of small, triangular mince-filled snacks eaten by travelers under names like ‘sanbusak,’ ‘sanbusaj,’ and ‘sanbusaq.’ During the Delhi Sultanate rule, Middle Eastern chefs migrated to India in search of work and brought the samosa with them. Over time, the snack gained favor with Indian royalty and gradually became synonymous with Indian culture and cuisine.

When British colonizers arrived in India, they developed a fondness for the samosa and brought it with them on their travels. As a result, various versions of the samosa emerged, depending on the region and country where it was prepared. For example, Middle Eastern samosas are semi-circular and filled with cheese, onions, minced meat, and spices, while Israeli samosas often feature chickpeas and pine nuts.

In India, the country most commonly associated with the samosa, the snack is often served with chutney, shaped into a triangle, and enjoyed when it is crispy and lightly golden. The most common fillings for Indian samosas include boiled potatoes, peas, green chilies, and a blend of spices. One thing is certain, the samosa represents adaptability, tolerance, and invention. Even after centuries of interpretation, it remains one of the most beloved street snacks in India today.

Although traditional variations are typically triangular, there are countless ways to create a samosa. Many skilled chefs combine the snack with other dishes to create exciting new fillings, such as the ‘samosa chaat.’ Today, in the category of vegetarian snacks, samosas are arguably the second most popular option after vegetable momos.

During our younger years, there were numerous sweetshops situated between Ratna Park and Rani Pokhari in Kathmandu. These sweetshops had large metal plates placed above the burning stove near the cash counter. Samosas were prepared in the enclosed kitchen and placed on these plates. They were never served hot, but the accompanying semi-liquid vegetable curry was served hot. However, everything changed when a samosa shop opened in a narrow, dimly lit alley opposite Bishal Bazaar on New Road.

Surendra Sharma, a migrant from Burma, initially went to Rajasthan in India to seek his fortune. Perhaps facing setbacks there, he eventually arrived in Kathmandu and opened a tea shop. In the 1980s, approximately 40 years ago, Surendra ventured into the samosa business and began frying them in an open kitchen. The response was instant and overwhelming as people got hot, spicy, and fresh samosa cooked in front of them. 

It’s difficult to put into words the sheer pleasure of dipping a piping hot samosa into a delightful sweet and sour sauce on a chilly day in Kathmandu. The shop had no official name, but it was located adjacent to a store called Tip Top Tailors. Consequently, people started referring to the samosas as ‘Tip Top ko samosa’ (Samosa from Tip Top). Although the owners named it Sauwgat Sweets, for us it will forever be Tip Top ko samosa.

The history of these triangular-shaped samosas holds many angles that require exploration through systematic research. From my perspective, it’s an endeavor that young culinary students should undertake. As for individuals like me who are of a certain age, our role lies in simply savoring the delightful crunch and taste of samosas.

The author is a UK-based R&D chef