Momo, momo-cha, mo:mo:, whatever you call it, you can’t leave a restaurant in Nepal without ordering this delicious meat-filled goodness. Dumplings have been in existence for a long time. The Georgians call it ‘Khinkali’, Koreans call it ‘Mandu’, Russians named it ‘Pelmeni’, Poles call it ‘Pierogi’ while the Japanese fondly call it ‘Gyoza’. But momo is unique to Nepal. Dumplings originated some 1800 years ago in the Han dynasty in China. Zhongjing, one of the founders of traditional Chinese medicine, is believed to have created the first dumplings out of dough, meat, chili, and herbs as a cure for frostbite. There was a point in time when a few autonomous regions in the Chinese mainland used to prepare crescent-shaped dumplings. Global cuisines have created their own versions of dumplings and we find many varieties with different fillings. Every nook and corner of the world that knows about dumplings has its own version. Momo is what Nepal came up with. The story of how momo originally came to Kathmandu is an interesting one. During the 17th century, trade routes between Kathmandu and our northern neighbor, Tibet, were blooming. Dumplings were already a staple snack in Lhasa. During that time, around 40 skilled tradesmen from the Newar community who wore white topis (caps) had the special privilege to travel to Lhasa for trade. It was then in Lhasa that the Newar traders got introduced to these famous dumplings. It fascinated them no end. The dumplings were big in size and made with yak meat and onions, wrapped in finely kneaded dough.

These dumplings were later added to the traditional Newari cuisines served back home in the valley. The merchants who returned from their usual business at Lhasa would ask their wives to prepare something similar, but in a size that would fit into their mouths. The yak meat was switched with buffalo kachila (raw buffalo meat), and ginger, garlic, and local spices were added to the fillings. They would ask their wives to make round designs in the wrapper dough and seal it with the same pattern as while wrapping a saree. The small dumplings were then steamed. These Nepali versions were called momo-cha (cha being a term of endearment for anything small in Nepal Bhasa). Similar to small marbles unlike the larger Tibetan variety, momo-chas were easier to eat in one go, which meant they retained the succulent juices that exploded with flavors.

But momos were once meant for the rich. Affluent people used to order round momos that best suited their palate. They believed that the meat should be so soft that it should melt in the mouth, just like butter. Remember ‘guchha momos’? Well, those are the typical small marble (guchha) sized momos designed to be eaten in one go. They were bite-sized, soft, and delicious. It was a luxury. The story of how momo became commercially successful in Nepal is another anecdote that has gotten lost in food history. You were supposed to have one without a dip and feel the spices and the juicy meat dissolve in your mouth. Youth of those days would say that having big momos and adding dips on top of that was double murder of the beloved momo-cha. Ranjana Cinema Momo was the most popular eatery that served momos during the 1970s. Another was Jharana Momo, opposite the Kathmandu Metropolitan office. They offered such succulent momos. Soon, Ranjana Cinema Momo became widely famous as Kathmandu’s first successful commercial momo joint and a popular hub for youngsters. It quickly became a cultural hub and place where celebrities regularly hung out. Before long, RCM had five different outlets in the capital. However, commercialization and unnecessary experimentation are killing the essence of the momos. Momos have become bigger (think the ever-popular thulo momo) and they can no longer be eaten in one go, necessitating the need to be cut up which makes the juices spill out. What makes Nepali momo a class apart is its accompanying tomato chutney/achar. Early momo connoisseurs would roll in their graves if they knew the original flavors have been diluted, replaced, and experimented on. Experimentation is what brought momos to Nepal. But momo has taken its current form through a lot of metamorphoses. So, the current evolution of momos can be seen as a necessary step in its evolution story. But momo is perfect as it is. I believe the amalgamation of flavors is something that shouldn’t be tampered with a lot. Binod Baral is London-based Nepali R&D chef.