First Covid-19 and then dengue followed by a dreary Dashain, thanks to heavy rainfall, Kathmandu residents badly needed a break. Jazzmandu—probably the biggest music festival in Kathmandu—came to our rescue at the right time. Held from Oct 13 to 19, the 18th edition of the event gave us a chance to disconnect from the humdrum of daily life and indulge in some good music. Bringing together jazz performers from Nepal and all over the world, this year’s event, ‘Jazzmandu 2022’ had many performances in different venues. There were a total of seven artists: Jamie Baum Sextet (USA), Catia Werneck (Brazil/France), Yumi Ito (Switzerland), Jin Jim (Germany), Cadenza Collective (Nepal), Jonisha Poudel (Nepal), and Samundra Band (Nepal). At the grand finale of the event, held on Oct 19 at Hotel Yak and Yeti in Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, all the performers came together for a spectacular closing. The fest formally started on Oct 13, with Cadenza Collective jamming with their new and old friends in Kathmandu’s well-known jazz club, Jazz Upstairs. The performance by Cadenza Collective had both a jazzy and traditional vibe and people were grooving to their music. The opening act was indeed a blast for everyone who made it to the show.

The second show on Oct 14 had a bit of a personal touch. Held in several locations in Kathmandu, people could visit the place they were most comfortable with or go listen to an artist of their choice. Jamie Baum Sextet performed at Jazz Upstairs in Lazimpat, Jin Jin at Electric Pagoda in Thamel, Catia Werneck at Evoke Café and Bistro in Jhamsikhel, and Yumi Ito at Musicology in Patan. You could very well say there was some jazz in almost every corner of Kathmandu valley.

But without a doubt, the third day of the fest, on Oct 15, was the best one of all. Held at Gokarna Forest Resort, visitors got to enjoy live music under the open sky at the resort. The festival kicked off at three in the afternoon and went on till 10:00 pm. This informal, almost picnic-like way of enjoying jazz music in the company of your loved ones, while sipping a glass of wine, has over the years been a popular feature of Jazzmandu. The event had a slightly more formal vibe on Oct 17. Held at Aloft in Thamel, the event featured Catia Werneck and Cadenza Collective. They set just the right mood with their mesmerizing performances. Cadenza Collective opened the show with tunes that were a mixture of jazz with a hint of traditional music. It also included a jazzy version of ‘Tamang Selo’ which was simply amazing. They ended the show with their famous music, none other than the song ‘Momo Funk’, to which the crowd cheered and sang along. Catia Werneck performed next. Her music was all about love. The crowd loved her French music. It was evident by their cheers and claps. Visitors ApEx talked to said they just wanted to stand up and dance to the music. Werneck was enjoying herself. She clearly loved to sing. The vibe caught on. People were captivated by her charm. However, it was quite challenging to make Jazzmandu a successful event this year, mostly because of the dengue epidemic. “We followed the necessary protocols, gave our 100 percent, and hoped for the best,” says Samir Chhetri, media coordinator. Jazzmandu started in 2002 and has always had national and international artists. “But this time we wanted to do something different which is why we held workshops before the actual event,” says Chhetri. This year, Jazzmandu organized music and live sound workshops from Oct 10 to 12 for those interested to participate. They also conducted a music competition, whose winner got to perform during their event at the Gokarna Forest Resort. This time, Jazzmandu also had something to offer jazz enthusiasts—a chance to learn the music they loved. On Oct 18, there was a masterclass for anyone willing to attend. Although seats are limited, entry was free. You could get a basic knowledge of jazz music from well-known experts in the field. The classes were held in two locations: Yala Maya Kendra in Patan, Lalitpur, and The Music Room in Kathmandu. The mentors were Jamie Baum Sextet and Jin Jim, and Catia Werneck and Yumi Ito respectively. There was also a jazz performance at Yala Maya Kendra, in the evening, where the audience got a dose of traditional Nepali music with a touch of jazz. In the past, the audience used to be mostly tourists. Nepalis, Chhetri says, were not that aware or interested in jazz back then. But in the past few years, Nepalis have apparently shown interest in jazz. It was quite evident this year as the majority of the audience were Nepalis, although there were quite a lot of tourists too. “It was really nice to see so many locals enjoying our music,” says Chhetri.