It’s three in the morning and the Teendhara Chowk in Banepa is teeming with people as though it was a busy afternoon. Folks of all age groups are here. Many of them are holding tiki torches in their hands; others are just there to witness the spectacle that is about to unfold. In the cards is a torch rally, part of the Chandreshwori Jatra, also considered the largest festival in Kavre district. 

The three-day festival is held every year in honor of Chandreshwori, the avatar of Hindu goddess Parvati. It celebrities the triumph of good over evil. The torch rally, locally known as Ma-ta Puja, falls on the day of Buddha Purnima. 

Again, it’s well before dawn, the sky at its darkest. On the ground, certain energy is building up. There is a small group of young men with Dhimeys (traditional Newari drums) and Bhusyahs (cymbals) getting ready for the procession. There are people preparing the plates laden with offerings. 

Soon the torches are lit. The number of flames multiplies and there is a red glow all over. The rally is moving and so are the dancing flames. The movement of the fire-wielding procession resembles a rapidly spreading wildfire. I follow the march, which is set to conclude at the Chandreshwori Temple. 

As we approach the shrine, a large idol of the goddess herself looms over the procession. The radiance of torches gives her a formidable presence. She commands reverence among her worshippers. The moment is hypnotizing.