Despite its cultural and archeological sig­nificance, the nearly six-century-old Mus­tang Palace doesn’t inspire much awe. In fact, the closed and decaying doors and windows give an impression that the palace is getting more decrepit. But the fresh layer of earth in some walls raised an obvious question: who is renovating the place? Historical records suggest that the Mustang Palace was constructed in 1440 following the establishment of an independent Mustang state. Besides the palace’s unique style that is appropriate for the high mountainous region, the tall walls surrounding the entire capital are an extra attraction. But the collapsed walls are a pathetic sight now. Within the confines of the walls are the palace, a Buddhist shrine and 170 houses built in ancient styles of architecture.

 

The palace is a five-storied building with 108 rooms. It houses important Buddhist texts, stat­ues, ancient artifacts as well as over 300 sheep and mountain goats.

 

Coming back to the present, my investiga­tion revealed that the palace’s façade is being redone by an NGO named HimalAsia Cultural Heritage and Educational Foundation, without the government’s knowledge. The NGO works on issues related to mountain culture and edu­cation and has offices in Germany and Sikkim besides one in Kathmandu.

 

Such unsupervised reconstruction threatens the palace’s originality. “Official indifference on the one hand and the NGO’s negligence in the name of reconstruction on the other have spoilt the palace’s traditional splendor,” says Madan Rimal, a culture expert. “No heritage building can be altered without government permission. The Department of Archaeology (DOA) has to take charge of the palace’s reconstruction.”

 

The DOA isn’t aware of the reconstruction work on the palace either. Director General Bhesh Narayan Dahal pleads ignorance and admits that his office hasn’t been able to take charge of the renovation even though it should. Following the monarchy’s abolition, the Mus­tang Palace has been reduced to a tourist attraction, and no more. While the govern­ment, through the Office of the Nepal Trust, has started conservation work on the palaces of the Shah kings, the Mustang Palace hasn’t drawn its attention. Ramchandra Tiwari, Chief District Officer (CDO) of Mustang, says he has no information about the palace’s reconstruc­tion. “There is no record of any organization seeking permission for it. But we can certainly look into it,” says Tiwari.

 

However, Indra Dhara Bista, a Province 4 assembly member, says that in the absence of government funds, the palace’s renovation was commenced with the help of the NGO. “As the palace became dilapidated, it stopped attracting tourists. So we started renovating it, even though the money had to come from an NGO,” says Bista.

 

Susan Vonderheid, Director of HimalAsia, admits that her organization started recon­struction work on the palace without informing state authorities. “We started our work on the basis of our agreement with the Mustang Pal­ace. We don’t know the rest,” she said.

 

The palace had already fallen victim to state apathy, and the 2015 earthquake only exacer­bated its state. Tourists aren’t allowed inside the palace after the quake damaged its struc­ture. “The palace must be conserved; this is our common concern,” says Rinjing Dorje Bista, chairperson of Lo Manthang rural municipal­ity-5. “Upper Mustang is interesting and import­ant not only because of its natural beauty but also because of its rich history, culture and archeology. The palace obviously has its own significance,” says Bista.

 

Some locals are preparing to launch an ini­tiative to place the Mustang Palace and the settlement in its vicinity on the World Heritage List. “The bottom line is that the palace has to be restored to its former glory. All we ask is that there be an environment where domestic and foreign tourists visit this place to see the palace,” says Tashi Gurung, a local.

 

 

 By Chhetu Sherpa | Lo Manthang, Mustang