Khumai Danda: A precious gift of nature
While searching for an unspoiled and secluded trail near the Kathmandu Valley to spend my weekend, I came to know about Khumai Danda. Situated at an altitude of 3,245 meters above the sea level, it lies to the north of Pokhara in Kaski district.
Though Khumai Danda trek, also known as the Great Machhapuchhre Trail, is a newly-developed trekking route in the Annapurna Conservation Area, it has become a popular trekking destination among the domestic tourists in a short period of time.
Upon coming to know that Khumai Danda trek is a relatively easy trek in the Annapurna region, I decided to take my mom (62) on this journey. Despite being a regular hiker and nature lover, she had not experienced the real adventure of trekking due to her busy schedule. That is why, her yearning for walking into the woods for days was limited to herself.
So, a day before the journey began, we went to Thamel to buy trekking gear for her. The new trekking shoes and stick among others brought a joyous smile of excitement on her face.
The next day, I along with my mom and a friend took a night bus to Pokhara. As it was the first time for all of us traveling in the night bus, the excitement was palpable. But the exhilaration turned into grouchiness as the bumpy road that started soon after we reached Muglin disturbed our sleep the whole night.
When I heard the conductor saying Prithvi Chowk… Prithvi Chowk, it was already 4:30 in the morning. The road was quiet and silent. As it was a chilly morning, we wanted to have tea to beat the cold but did not find any tea shop with its shutter open.
So, we decided to walk toward Harichowk from where we had to take a jeep to Ghachowk. It took us around 1:30 hours to reach Harichowk. On the way, we saw houses built in Newari architecture with decorative brick works and ornately carved windows similar to those in the Kathmandu Valley.
As we were fascinated by the old houses, design and architecture, we decided to explore the place. While walking through a narrow street, we saw temples and shops selling religious stuffs.
With curiosity, when I asked a man about the place, he said the area is popularly known as Purano Bazaar or Old Town. He said that the place is located about 4 km north of the Lakeside.
In the 17th century, Pokhara used to be a hub for trade and business with Tibet. With an objective to promote trade in Pokhara, the king of Kaski invited Newars (well known as traders) of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur to settle in the area. When the people migrated to Pokhara, they brought the Newari style engineering and culture with them.
The people have become albeit modern with changing times, while preserving their locality beautifully. We reached Harichowk at around 6 am. A man standing on the roadside announced that the jeep will leave for Ghachowk at 7 am. While waiting for the jeep, we got into a shop to have tea.
In the meantime, we saw two girls from Kathmandu waiting for the jeep. Later, we three and the two girls booked a jeep to Ghachowk for Rs 3, 000. The four-wheeler left Harichowk at 7: 15 am.
The driver, a resident of Ghachowk, was so responsive and friendly. On the way, we talked about Khumai Danda and various other matters. He said that the place became popular as normalcy returned after the Covid-19 pandemic. Lately, it has been drawing people from across the country, he said.
Though the driver was supposed to drop us at Ghachowk, he took us straight to Saripakha. We reached there at around 8 am. He also booked a hotel for us in Khumai Danda and also ordered lunch at Hilekharka.
Without wasting time, we started walking steep stone stairs from Saripakha. Just 10 to 15 minutes after leaving the beautiful hamlet, we got to see a scintillating view of Mt Machhapuchhre and Mt Annapurna.
After walking together for around 30 minutes, the two girls faced difficulties in walking and decided to abort the journey. Soon after saying ‘ciao’ to them, we reached an open ground where we saw a traditional cow shed. A herd of buffaloes were grazing nearby under the morning sun.
Not treading for more than 15 minutes, we reached Tubu. Usually, people who start their trek from Ghachowk have their lunch at Tubu. But, as we started our journey from Saripakha, we decided not to stop there. After walking for around 1:30 hours, we reached Hilekharka at 10 am. While waiting for lunch, we opted to bask in the warmth of the morning sun, enjoying the panoramic view of high Himalayas.
The nutritious and local lunch at the Green Cottage was out of the world.
We left Hilekharka at 11:30 am. Once we crossed Hilekharka, we started climbing a steep trail into the forest of rhododendron trees. For the time being, the forest was an immediate sunburn relief for us. We reached Chichimle at 12:30 pm.
As we trudged higher up to Deurali enjoying the pastoral beauty of the Bhurjung river and uninterrupted view of Mt Machhapuchhre and Mt Annapurna, we reached a place where some people were building a home stay. They offered us tea and snacks. We had tete-a-tete for around half-an-hour.
Saying goodbye to them with a promise to meet again in the future, we entered a dense forest. While walking into the forest, the sound of rustling leaves and twittering of birds recharged us. When we reached Lobruchu, some people were having noodles. We also planned to have something to muster energy but the weather suddenly became cloudy. With fear that the rain would make for a tough grind for us, we decided to reach Khumai Danda at the earliest.
It was just half-an-hour away from our destination, and snow started to fall. Though the snow brought chill air from the Himalayas ranges, we also felt lucky as the snowfall was the first of the season.
Soon after we reached Khumai Danda, Naran Dai, the owner of the Green Cottage, with a warm smile spread across his face welcomed us with masala tea and popcorn.
As the weather was cold, we went directly to the kitchen to sit around the fire.
Other hikers from Butwal and Pokhara were also relaxing in the kitchen. When they started singing and dancing, the environment became ebullient. The sad part of the journey was we could not see the sunset.
While staying in the kitchen, we made a decision that we would go to Korchan Danda (3,700 m) to see the sunrise if the weather becomes favorable. Otherwise, we would return to Pokhara. After having dinner, we went to bed.
The next morning at around 4, we saw stars twinkling in the sky. My mom told me that the weather would be clear. At around 6 o’ clock, we headed toward Korchan Danda.
When the sun started to rise above Mt Machhapuchhre to lift the mask of the night, the magical golden color made us forget all the pain and stress of our life. As we went higher, the beauty of the sun and the views also escalated. It was a dream-like moment and the best ever experience of my life.
We spent some time glancing at the unlimited richness and beauty of the snow-capped mountains and nature. We played with the snow and also took photos and videos of pristine views of the Himalayas before returning to the hotel.
The local and authentic breakfast was waiting for us at the hotel. Some people had already left the guest house and some were preparing to leave. As the weather was bright and sunny, we decided to stay that day in Khumai Danda to behold the beauty of the sunset.
Coming out of the kitchen after having breakfast, we saw a herd of mules transporting water. A man, who was looking after the mules, said that he charged Rs 400 per mule from the hotel owner for ferrying the water. As we had nothing to do, we decided to go along with the man and the mules to see the source of water.
We walked behind the mules for around an hour to reach the water source. After having lunch, we freshened up and relaxed watching clouds dancing above the gigantic Mt Machhapuchhre. As the evening slowly descended, the red glow of the setting sun started to cover the sky. In what could be termed the ‘moment of golden hour’, the view was outside of the realm of imagination.
After having dinner, we went to bed to wake up early in the morning to see the sunrise. As there is a saying: just like the days, no two sunrises are the same, we felt like the sunrise on that morning was more beautiful than the previous day. That is why, one must see the sunrise and sunset from the Khumai Danda, the precious gift of nature.
Taking all the good memories with us, we headed toward Ghachowk from where we hopped onto a jeep and drove back to Pokhara. The breathtaking views of mountains, rich vegetation, culture and lifestyle of the people have made Khumai Danda, located on the lap of Mt Machhapuchhre, an idyllic destination among the trekkers in recent days.
Photos: Achitra Thieng
Ram Chandra Paudel elected new President of Nepal
Ram Chandra Paudel has been elected as the new President of Nepal. Nepali Congress candidate Paudel won the election held on Thursday by a huge margin.
He defeated Subash Chandra Nembang of the CPN-UML by 18, 284 votes.
Paudel garnered 33, 802 votes while Nembang secured 15, 518 votes.
According to the Election Commission, out of 882 voters, 831 cast their votes.
Of the 332 federal Parliament members, 313 cast their votes and out of 550 Province Assembly members, 518 cast their ballots.
A total of 14 lawmakers of the Rastriya Prajatantra Party and Prem Suwal of the Nepal Workers Peasants Party did not take part in the voting.
CPN (Maoist Center) lawmaker Barshaman Pun and Nepali Congress lawmaker Chandra Bhandari could not take part in the voting as they are in China and India respectively for treatment.
Federal Parliament and Province Assembly lawmakers are the voters for the presidential election.
A vote cast by a member of the federal Parliament has the weight of 79 votes, whereas the vote cast by a member of the Provincial Assembly has the weight of 48 votes.
The term of the Office of the President shall be five years from the date on which he/she is elected.
Nepali Congress President Sher Bahadur Deuba, CPN (Unified Socialist) Chairman Madhav Kumar Nepal, CPN (Maoist Center) senior Vice-Chairman Narayan Kaji Shrestha, Nagarik Unmukti Party Chairperson Ranjita Shrestha, Janamat Party leader Abdul Khan and Janata Samajbadi Party leader Ashok Rai proposed Paudel’s name for the President.
Democratic Socialist Party Chairman Mahantha Thakur, Janamorcha Party Chairman Chitra Bahadur KC, Nepali Congress Vice-President Purna Bahadur Khadka and CPN (Maoist Center) leader Hitraj Pandey seconded the proposal.
Nembang was proposed and seconded by just the UML.
The election for the fourth term of the President was held today.
Nepal got its first President through the voting on July 19, 2008 after the country adopted the democratic republican system through the 2062/63 movements. Ram Baran Yadav was elected as the first President of the country.
Yadav of the Nepali Congress obtained 283 votes against Ram Raja Prasad Singh from the then UCPN (Maoist) who got 270 votes.
After both the candidates failed to secure majority votes, re-election was held on July 21, 2008
Yadav won the re-election by garnering 308 votes while his closest contender got 282.
Bidya Devi Bhandari is now serving as the second and current President of the country. This is her second term in the Office of the President. She was elected on October 28, 2015 for her second term.
The new Constitution that was endorsed in 2015 as per federalism provisioned 334-member federal Parliament (the House of Representatives and the National Assembly) and the 550-member Province Assembly. The members of the federal Parliament and the Province Assemblies are eligible voters for the presidential election.
Bhandari secured 327 votes while her nearest rival Kul Bahadur Gurung of the Nepali Congress received 214 votes.
She was supported by the CPN-UML, the then UCPN (Maoist), Rastriya Prajatantra Party-Nepal and Madhesi Janadhikar Forum Loktantrik among other parties.
Out of the total 597 voters, 549 took part in the voting, and 48 remained absent. Eight votes were invalid.
She was re-elected as the President on March 13, 2018.
Of the total 884 eligible voters, 862 (326 under the federal Parliament and 536 under the Province Assembly) cast their votes. Eight votes were invalid.
Who is President-elect Paudel?
Paudel (78) was born in Risti Bahunpokhara of Tanahun district in September 1944. He got into politics at the age of 16 after the then Prime Minister BP Koirala and his entire Cabinet members were arrested in 1960.
Paudel worked closely with Koirala after he returned from exile in India in December 1976.
He took part in the armed revolution launched by the Congress in 1961.
Paudel, who was elected as the President of the Student Union in the Saraswati Campus in 1966, was elected as the General Secretary of the Prajatantrik Samajbadi Yuva League in 1967.
He became the founding central member of the Nepal Student Union in 1970.
The party made him the coordinator of the Central Publicity Committee in 1983.
Paudel’s journey to the Parliament started after he won the 1991 election from Tanahun-1. Later, he became the local development minister. He was also appointed as the agricultural minister.
Paudel won the mid-term elections held in 1994 from Tanahun-2.
He served as the Speaker of the Parliament from 1994 till 1998. He was elected for the third term from Tanahun-2 in 1999.
He took the responsibility of Deputy Prime Minister, Home Minister and Communications Minister in 2000.
Paudel was appointed as the peace minister in 2002. He became the General Secretary of the Nepali Congress in 2005.
He was appointed as the coordinator of the Peace Secretariat after the Maoist joined the peace process by signing a 12-point agreement with seven political parties.
Paudel was appointed as the peace and reconstruction minister in 2006. He became the Vice-President of the Congress in 2007.
Paudel, who was elected as a member of the Constituent Assembly held the same year from Tanahun-2, became the Parliamentary Party leader of the party in 2008.
He could not be elected to the post of Prime Minister despite contesting the election for 17 times in 2010. Maoist Chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal and CPN-UML leader Jhalanath Khanal were the candidates.
Paudel was elected as the member of the Constituent Assembly for the second time from Tanahun-2. He became the acting President of the Nepali Congress after the demise of then President Sushil Koirala in 2015.
He lost to Sher Bahadur Deuba in the party’s 13th convention held the same year. He also lost the election held in 2017.
However, Paudel was elected as a member of the House of Representatives from Tanahun-1 this time. He spent around 13 years in jail.
Rolwaling Valley: A perfect place to find solitude
Fed up with the monotonous routine and also to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, I along with three other friends planned for a trek to find solitude and to get recharged in the lap of nature.
So, after holding discussions for a week to explore the unexplored place for a new taste, we decided to go on a trek to Rolwaling Valley, a beautiful valley with great Himalaya trails. The excitement was in the air.
The main attraction of this trek is the Tsho Rolpa Lake and the Dudhkunda Lake.
Situated at an altitude of 4, 580 m from sea level, Tsho Rolpa lake, located at the Gaurishankar Conservation Area Project (GCAP) in Dolakha district, is one of the biggest glacial lakes of Nepal. Though the lake is popular for its beauty and serenity, it has not been fully explored.
“Tsho” means lake and “Rolpa” means Rolwaling Valley. The name Rolwaling means ‘valley carved by a plough’.
Similarly, Dudhkunda is one of the highest altitude lakes of the country surrounded by beautiful mountain ranges.
With exhilaration, we prepared a complete itinerary, hoping to quench the thirst of traveling.
On October 1, we took a taxi early in the morning to the bus station in Jadibutti. It may sound strange, but we got stuck in a traffic jam in Koteshwor for almost four hours.
At one point, we got frustrated and even planned to abort the journey. But we tried to console ourselves, saying good times always come with a cost.
We witnessed the traffic jam as hundreds of people were leaving their hometown to celebrate Dashain festival, the biggest and longest festival of Nepal.
The bus left the station at 10 am.
After a seven-hour drive, we reached Singati at around 5 pm. From there, we hired a Jeep to Chetchet, the place from where we had to start the trek.
We luckily found a room with four beds as the lodges were packed with trekkers.
We changed our dress and went to the kitchen for dinner. We prepared everything for tomorrow and went to bed.
The following morning, we were greeted by a huge and beautiful waterfall right in front of the guest house. We got thrilled to see the cascade which we were not expecting at all.
In the meantime, a local suggested us take a short and old route through Righu, the place which was not in our itinerary.
After trekking for three hours from Chetchet, we reached Uttise at around 10 am. We decided to settle down there to have noodles as breakfast to muster the energy to climb up.
Walking for almost three hours by the banks of Rolwaling river and through a dense forest hearing the sounds of birds chirping, we stopped for lunch at Surmuche. We had not expected that we would be served with local organic food. It was unbeatable.
After resting for some time, we headed towards Dongang, the first station of our jaunt. Walking past numerous waterfalls and bridges for around three hours, we reached Kyalche. We saw a board mentioning the distance between Kyalche to Dongang (1:30 hour).
Not long after we reached Dongang, the evening set in. We checked into the hotel. The weather was cold. So, we quickly put on jackets to keep ourselves warm. The view from the hotel to the riverside was astonishing.
We went directly to the kitchen to sit around the fire. While we waited for our dinner, we ordered Tongba (millet-based alcoholic drink) to keep ourselves warm. After having dinner, we ushered into the rooms.
The next day, we woke up at around 6 am and packed all our stuff and went to the kitchen for breakfast and bid adieu to Dongang.
We started to walk around 8 am. At times, the group split owing to the varying walking pace. I, along with a guy, a solo traveler who joined our group in Kathmandu, met a group of four people on the way to Thangding. We introduced each other and had a short tete-a-tete. After walking around half-an-hour, we were blessed with beautiful Mount Gaurishankar which was smiling at us. The view of the clouds moving over the mountain was priceless. We took photos of the breathtaking vista and spent a moment there.
After walking around two hours we reached Thangding. The trek from Dongang to Thangding took us through dense woods and uphill climbs. The route offered us an alluring and changing landscape.
We stayed there for around an hour basking in the warmth of the morning sun, having noodles and sipping mint tea and enjoying nature. The mint tea was the best ever. It worked as an energy drink for us.
After being completely refreshed and recharged, we headed towards Beding. Soon after we left Thangding, we walked past a holy temple of Lord Shiva. The day was sunny and we were enjoying walking in the forest rich in biodiversity.
We were slowly leaving the forest area behind. Now, the main exciting part of the journey began. The route became easier. We were walking on the river bank, watching several beautiful waterfalls on the other side. Due to the autumn season, leaves on the trees have changed the color from green to yellow, orange, red and brown. The spectacular gigantic mountain ranges were right in front of us. The view was royal.
After an hour-long trek, we came across a suspension bridge from where we saw a small village. We thought the village was Beding. So, we decided to spend some time on the bridge taking photos.
Soon we reached the village, we realized that it was not Beding, instead a school and monasteries. Beding was around one hour far away. So, we increased our walking pace as we were already late for lunch.
We reached Beding at around 2 pm. We stopped for lunch at Gaurishankar Hotel. We were served with a delicious lunch.
After walking for around an hour towards Na village, the weather suddenly became cloudy. At one moment, the surroundings were covered by the fog and the atmosphere abruptly became cold. So, we put on jackets and woolen hats to beat the cold. By the time we reached Na village, it was already dark. As there was no room in the Na View Point Hotel, we were advised to go to another hotel. The hotel had not even the most basic facilities. There was only an old lady to cook dinner for us. We were asked to help her. We had no option but to help her as we were starving to death. Without complaining, we had dinner and went to the room which was 100 meters away from the kitchen.
The next morning, when we woke up, we saw Mount Gaurishankar standing tall. It was a heavenly experience. But it did not last even for half-an-hour. A layer of cloud covered the mountain tops and could see nothing.
After having breakfast, we headed towards Tsho Rolpa Lake, two hours from Na Village. The route was easy at the beginning. But it became difficult and we had to go through steep stairs for around an hour to reach the lake.
The moment we reached the lake was surreal. But it started raining minutes after we reached the destination. We had to admit that lady luck was not with us on that day. The weather took a toll. We had seen mountain ranges surrounding the lake in the pictures, but we hardly saw one. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the view and walked around the lake to take photos. The different kinds of good experiences.
Then, we walked towards another destination, Dudhkunda Lake. The way to Dudhkunda, situated at an altitude of 4, 700 meters, was quite technical and tough. It is hard to reach Dudhkunda without a guide. There is no proper trail. We crossed a river and two to three hills to reach there. When we reach Dudhkunda, it was still raining. After around 20 minutes, the weather became clear which brought smile in the hangdog faces for a time being. The view was incredibly beautiful. The lake was blue and saw some mountain ranges, a respite for us.
After spending around one hour, we walked back to the hotel where we had kept our belongings. It was raining all the way to the hotel. Though we had raincoats in our bags, we forgot to carry them on that day. All the excitement and energy soaked up by the time we reached the hotel.
We put on raincoats and headed towards Beding the same day. We all were soaked to the bones when we reached the hotel in Beding. While having dinner, we heard the news that it will rain for some more days. But still we decided to climb down as we had to reach Kathmandu on time to put Dashain tika. The next day, we woke up early in the morning, had breakfast and walked towards Simigaun, the place which we had escaped earlier.
We had no alternative but to take the route of Simigaun as the torrential rain had washed away the walking trail.
The route was quite difficult. We walked for almost one hour down the stairs to reach Chetchet. It was already dark when we reached the guest house. We went to bed after having dinner to give rest to our tired muscles.
The next day, we took a jeep and headed towards Kathmandu.
Untouched by modernity, the Rolwaling Valley, which lies close to the Tibetan border, is one of the go-to destinations of Nepal. The Rolwaling trek is an audacious trek that offers you a taste of pristine wilderness, glorious mountains and many more.
Photos: Achitra Thieng and Anjali Thing
CPN (MC) Chairman Dahal becomes Nepal's new prime minister
CPN (Maoist Center) Chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal has been appointed as the new prime minister of Nepal on Sunday.
President Bidya Devi Bhandari appointed Dahal as the prime minister as per Article 76 (2) of the Constitution.
President Bhandari’s press advisor Tika Dhakal said that preparations are underway to swear him in as the prime minister at 4 pm on Monday.
This is Dahal’s third stint as the country’s chief executive.
Various six political parties had submitted a letter to the President saying that CPN (Maoist Center) Chairman Dahal be appointed as the prime minister.
CPN-UML Chairman KP Sharma Oli, CPN (Maoist Center) Chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal, Rastriya Prajatantra Party Chairman Rajendra Lingden, Rastriya Swatantra party Chairman Rabi Lamichhane, Janamat Party Chairman Chandrakanta Raut, Nagarik Unmukti Party Chairperson Ranjita Shrestha had signed the letter.
Earlier, President Bhandari had called upon the political parties representing the House of Representatives to claim the post of prime minister as per Article 76(2) of the Constitution by 5 pm today.
Article 76 (2) stipulates that in cases where no party has a clear majority in the House of Representatives, the president shall appoint as prime minister a member of the House of Representatives who can command majority with the support of two or more parties represented in the HoR.
Despite being appointed as the prime minister with a clear majority, Dahal will now have to win the trust vote in the 275-member Parliament within 30 days as per Article 76 (4) of the Constitution.
Dahal must prove that he has the confidence of the Parliament. If he fails, a new process of government formation will begin.
Dahal joined hands with the CPN-UML by quitting the coalition to form yet another left alliance after Nepali Congress President Deuba refused to give him the post of prime minister.
Dahal will lead the government for the first-half of the government’s term, followed by UML Chairman KP Sharma Oli.
The Maoist Center and UML have also agreed to share the post of parliament speaker on a rotational basis. UML will hold the post of President for a full five-year term.
Earlier on Saturday, CPN (Maoist Center) Deputy General Secretary Barshaman Pun had warned Deuba that they would leave the coalition if they did not get the leadership of the government.
The Nepali Congress leaders, however, had been piling pressure on the party President to not hand over the post of prime minister to Dahal.
Dahal was appointed as the prime minister for the first time in 2008 after his party emerged as the largest party. He became the prime minister for the second time in 2016.
Meanwhile, President Bhandari congratulated Dahal for being appointed as the prime minister and wished for his successful tenure.