Youths demand resignation of Nepal’s newly appointed PM
In what has emerged as a dramatic turn of events in Nepal’s evolving political crisis, a group of youths staged a protest outside the Prime Minister’s official residence in Baluwatar at midnight, demanding resignation of newly appointed Prime Minister Sushila Karki.
Karki was appointed as the first female Prime Minister of Nepal on April 12 upon the recommendation of the Sudhan Gurung-led ‘Hami Nepal’ group.
They staged the protest after the news came out that Prime Minister Karki appointed former Managing Director of Nepal Electricity Authority Kulman Ghising as Minister for Energy, Rameshwor Khanal as Minister for Finance, and Om Prakash Aryal as Minister for Home Affairs without consulting the youth leaders who led the anti-corruption protests that toppled the KP Sharma Oli-led government.
Aryal is the legal advisor of the Kathmandu Metropolitan City Mayor, Balen Shah. He had played the role of facilitator during the Gen Z protests.
During the protest, also attended by family members of those who lost their lives during the protests, chanted various slogans like "Prime Minister should resign," and "Justice for the victims’ family," among others.
Gurung said, “People are powerful. No one can stop us. If we have the power to choose leaders, we also have the power to take them down,” adding “While I was managing bodies, Om Prakash Aryal was hatching a conspiracy to become the minister,” Gurung said.
The ministers participating in the Karki-led interim government will take the oath of office and secrecy on Monday.
The President Office informed that newly appointed ministers will be administered the oath of office and secrecy at 11 am today.
Former Chief Justice Karki was appointed as the Prime Minister of Nepal’s interim government after days of anti-corruption protests that claimed lives of 72 people and forced Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli to resign and flee his official residence in Baluwatar. With this appointment, she has made history by becoming the first female Prime Minister of the Himalayan nation.
According to Chief Secretary Ek Narayan Aryal, 59 protestors, 10 prisoners, and three security personnel were killed during the protests.
He said that 133 protesters and 57 security personnel, who were injured in the protests, are undergoing treatment at various hospitals.
He said that Prime Minister Karki has decided to provide free treatment to the injured, declare those who died in the protests as martyrs, and provide them with Rs 1 million each.
In accordance with Article 61 (4) of the Constitution, President Ram Chandra Paudel appointed Karki as the head of the interim government in consultation with the Nepal Army Chief and representatives of Gen Z who spearheaded the protests.
Known as Nepal’s first woman Chief Justice, Sushila Karki is admired for her clarity of thought, firm stance, and integrity during her tenure in the judiciary.
Karki served as the Chief Justice of Nepal from July 11, 2016, to June 6, 2017.
In April 2017, some lawmakers had attempted to impeach Karki accusing her of breaching the Constitution and failing to bear her duties, but the effort failed.
Nepal’s new Prime Minister Karki vows to end corruption
Newly appointed Prime Minister of Nepal Sushila Karki took charge of the office on Sunday.
After assuming the office, former Chief Justice Karki, the first woman Prime Minister of the Himalayan nation, urged the government officials to heed the demands of protesters to end corruption, ensure good governance and provide economic equality.
“I did not become the Prime Minister as per my wish. It was the responsibility given by the Gen Z protests to take the country towards the path of development and prosperity,” Prime Minister Karki said, adding, “I will hand over the power to the new government after six months by conducting the parliamentary elections set for March 5.”
“Everyone is aware of how the interim government was formed,” she said. “The arson attack on important structures as well as on commercial buildings of the country was shameful. How can they be called Nepalis.”
“This kind of incident has happened for the first time in Nepal. Government buildings were vandalized and set ablaze. I believe that it was premeditated. The guilty must be brought to justice."
She was of the opinion that the government should encourage industrialists and businessmen by providing loans or whatever they can do in this time of crisis.
Expressing grief over the loss of life and property during the protests, the Prime Minister assured that the government would provide appropriate relief and assistance.
Prime Minister Karki said that the structures destroyed during the protests should be rebuilt at the earliest.
She went on to say that those involved in setting fire to the government offices, including the Supreme Court, will not be spared.
“Criminals posed a challenge to us. This is a challenge for the country. We have to rebuild the structures with the help of people. Let’s all unite, Let’s not criticize each other,” the head of the government said.
She expressed concern that important documents were destroyed along with the Supreme Court and Singha Durbar, the main administrative building.
Karki, who was appointed as the Prime Minister of the interim government on September 12 following the Gen Z protests, assumed office today in the building constructed for the Ministry of Home Affairs in Singha Durbar. The Prime Minister’s building was set on fire during the protests.
Before assuming the office, Prime Minister Karki visited the Martyrs' Memorial in Lainchaur and laid a wreath at the statue of the martyrs.
On the recommendation of the Gen Z representatives, President Ram Chandra Paudel appointed former Chief Justice Karki as Prime Minister in accordance with Article 61 of the Constitution.
Prime Minister Karki is preparing to form a small Cabinet.
Earlier on September 13, Prime Minister Karki visited various hospitals to meet the people injured during the Gen Z protests.
Former Chief Justice Karki was appointed as the Prime Minister of Nepal’s interim government after days of anti-corruption protests that claimed lives of 72 people and forced Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli to resign and flee his official residence in Baluwatar. With this appointment, she has made history by becoming the first female Prime Minister of the Himalayan nation.
According to Chief Secretary Ek Narayan Aryal, 59 protestors, 10 prisoners, and three security personnel were killed during the protests.
He said that 133 protesters and 57 security personnel, who were injured in the protests, are undergoing treatment at various hospitals.
He said that Prime Minister Karki has decided to provide free treatment to the injured, declare those who died in the protests as martyrs, and provide them with Rs 1 million each.
In accordance with Article 61 (4) of the Constitution, President Ram Chandra Paudel appointed Karki as the head of the interim government in consultation with the Nepal Army Chief and representatives of Gen Z who spearheaded the protests.
Known as Nepal’s first woman Chief Justice, Sushila Karki is admired for her clarity of thought, firm stance, and integrity during her tenure in the judiciary.
Karki served as the Chief Justice of Nepal from July 11, 2016, to June 6, 2017.
In April 2017, some lawmakers had attempted to impeach Karki accusing her of breaching the Constitution and failing to bear her duties, but the effort failed.
Former Chief Justice Sushila Karki appointed Nepal’s first woman Prime Minister amid turmoil
Former Chief Justice Sushila Karki has been appointed as the Prime Minister of Nepal's interim government after days of anti-corruption protests that claimed 51 lives and forced Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli to resign and flee his official residence in Baluwatar.
With this appointment, she has made history by becoming the first female Prime Minister of the Himalayan nation.
In line with Article 61 (4) of the Constitution, President Ram Chandra Paudel appointed Karki as the head of the interim government in consultation with the Nepal Army Chief and representatives of Gen Z who spearheaded the protests.
Article 61 (4) of the Constitution states that it shall be the primary duty of the President to uphold and protect the Constitution.
She expressed her readiness to become the Prime Minister after an agreement was reached to dissolve the Parliament.
Meanwhile, President Paudel administered the oath of office and secrecy amidst a function in Sheetal Niwas.
After the swearing in ceremony, he also congratulated the newly appointed Prime Minister.
While congratulating her, President Paudel said, "May the country succeed and may the people prosper,"
Vice President Ram Sahaya Prasad Yadav, Chief Justice Prakashman Singh Raut, ambassadors of various countries, and high-ranking government officials were present in the program.
However, leaders of the parties representing in the Parliament did not take part in the oath-taking ceremoney, expressing dissatisfaction over the formation of the interim government.
Former Prime Minister Baburam Bhattarai was present on the occasion.
Similarly, representatives of Gen Z who were present at the swearing-in ceremony exchanged greetings and congratulated the newly appointed Prime Minister Karki.
Shortly after the swearing in ceremony, Paudel dissolved the House of Representatives, the lower House of the Federal Parliament, upon the recommendation of Prime Minister Sushila Karki.
According to a statement issued by the Office of the President, the next election of the Parliament will be held on March 5, 2026.
The Prime Minister is currently staying at her private residence due to damage caused by protesters at the Prime Minister's official residence in Baluwatar.
Nepal, which had practiced a bicameral system of legislature after the restoration of democracy in 1991, has witnessed several dissolutions of Parliament in the past.
KP Sharma Oli had dissolved the House of Representatives twice, first on December 20, 2020 and second on May 21, 2021. The Supreme Court overturned both the dissolutions.
The House of Representatives was dissolved for the first time in the country's parliamentary history on July 10, 1994.
Girija Prasad Koirala, the Prime Minister of the first elected government, dissolved Parliament after failing to endorse the policies and programs.
Writ petitions were filed in the Supreme Court against the dissolution. But all the writs were dismissed and the country went for mid-term elections.
Manmohan Adhikari, who became Prime Minister from the mid-term election, dissolved the House of Representatives on June 9, 1995.
The then Prime Minister Surya Bahadur Thapa on January 8, 1998 and Girija Prasad Koirala in 1998 had attempted to dissolve the Parliament but to no avail.
The then Prime Minister Sher Bahadur Deuba had also dissolved the House of Representatives on September 24, 2002. The Supreme Court also upheld it, but it failed to hold the election on time.
Who is Sushila Karki?
Known as Nepal’s first woman Chief Justice, Sushila Karki is admired for her clarity of thought, firm stance, and integrity during her tenure in the judiciary.
Born on June 7, 1952 at Shankharpur-3 of Biratnagar, Morang, Karki completed her Bachelor’s Degree from the Mahendra Morang College, Biratnagar and went to Banaras Hindu University in 1975 to earn a Master’s degree in Political Science. After obtaining a Bachelor's Degree in Law from the Tribhuvan University, she entered the legal profession as an advocate on March 29, 1979.
Karki spent three years teaching at the Mahendra Multiple Campus, Morang from 1985. She took the leadership of the Nepal Bar Association (NBA) Koshi Zone for three years from 1988, and later as the head of the NBA at the Biratnagar Appellate Court.
She received the title of senior advocate on December 20, 2004, and was appointed as a temporary judge of the Supreme Court on January 22, 2009. She became a permanent judge of the Supreme Court on November 18, 2010.
Karki served as the Chief Justice of Nepal from July 11, 2016, to June 6, 2017.
In April 2017, some lawmakers had attempted to impeach Karki accusing her of breaching Constution and failing to bear her duties, but the effort failed.
Monsoon trek to Kori Danda
With the onset of monsoon, the arid landscapes of Nepal begin to turn green. Rain-soaked hills come alive with a splash of color, as wildflowers briefly bloom, painting the countryside in hues that exist only in this season. Traveling has always been my passion. Driven by wanderlust, I longed to venture into uncharted places, and trekking during the monsoon had always been on my bucket list.
There is a saying: everything has its time, and everything is beautiful in its time. On June 21, 2024, as I was sitting with friends at Boudha, my phone rang. A friend was planning the Kori Danda trek and asked if I wanted to join. Without hesitation, I said yes. I too had been searching for a group to travel with during the rains. Our team would include three Nepalis and two Norwegians.
We knew the rains would test us, but the lure of lush forests, swelling rivers, and monsoon scenery was irresistible. According to plan, we left Kathmandu at 6 am, stopping at Naubise for breakfast. The Prithvi Highway up to Muglin was in rough shape, but beyond that, the road smoothed out, carrying us to Pokhara, the lake city.
After lunch, we headed towards Khaukhola and reserved a jeep for Sikles.
Perched at 1,940 meters, Sikles is Nepal’s second-largest Gurung settlement, with around 300 households resting under the shadow of the Annapurna and Lamjung peaks. On the way, we passed cascading waterfalls and small hamlets before reaching Chipli, another Gurung village.
The paved road ended there, and the journey turned into an off-road adventure. After three hours, we finally reached Sikles. Remote and untouched by urban sprawl, the village felt like a step back into a gentler time.
That evening we stayed at Namaste Guest House. Over barbecue, chatter, and laughter, the group bonded. The next morning, the mountains revealed themselves in the golden light, smiling like a newly married bride. It was a moment to cherish.
After breakfast, we began our trek. Monsoon trekking is not easy: trails become slippery, landslides loom, and rivers swell. Yet, the rains also breathe new life into forests and rivers, making everything feel freshly born. Around 10 am, we left Sikles, descending steeply for an hour and a half to Madkyu Bridge. The locals had warned us: from there to Tasa, the first station, the climb would be steep and grueling. They were right.
The uphill trail tested us under the searing sun. After two hours, we reached Marley Cottage, where we rested and ate noodles. Soon after resuming, rain poured down, and we trudged on in drenched raincoats. By 3 pm, we reached Tasa, shivering from the cold. The teahouse owner lit a fire for us, and one by one, other trekkers arrived. That night, we shared stories and laughter before falling into deep sleep.
The following morning, one of our Norwegian friends felt too weak to continue. We urged her to rest, and eventually, she decided to move along slowly. The trail offered no mercy: steeper climbs, denser forests, and constant drizzle. The Kori trail, being relatively new, had few trekkers, adding to the sense of wilderness. As the rain pattered on pine leaves, the forest shimmered in fresh green. The only unwelcome companions were leeches, clinging to shoes and legs, but we pressed on.
After six hours, we reached Deurali at 3,800 meters, just 15 minutes shy of Kori Danda. Our exhaustion melted away at the sight of the pristine surroundings, rolling hills, alpine meadows, and a horizon dominated by Himalayan giants. Reaching Kori felt like placing a final stone on a heavy load, a release of body and spirit.
That night, we huddled around the fire again, drinking in the warmth while rain poured outside. There is no water source between Tasa and Kori, so carrying bottles is essential for anyone attempting the trek. Many others had been waiting there for days, hoping for clear skies.
When dawn broke, fortune favored us. As we stepped outside, the sky unveiled its masterpiece: Annapurna and Lamjung glowing under the first light, wildflowers carpeting the pastures, and horses grazing against the backdrop of peaks. It was surreal, like a painting come to life, or as if the sky itself had blessed the mountains with a kiss.
We soaked in the moment, took photos, and then reluctantly packed to return. The descent was punishing, and by the time we reached Madkyu Bridge, our legs were trembling. We called for a jeep and drove back to Pokhara, tired but fulfilled.
For the Norwegians, the trek had been a dream fulfilled: to see the Himalayas up close in their raw beauty. For me, it was more than just a journey through nature. Like all voyages, it was a mixture of challenge and joy, of learning and renewal.
The Kori Danda trek, also known as the Toni Hagen Trail, is not for the faint-hearted. Its steep climbs and monsoon risks demand preparation and resilience. But for those willing to take on the challenge, the reward is unforgettable.
Five hiking destinations around Kathmandu
Hiking has emerged as one of the most popular activities in Kathmandu, especially after the Covid-19 pandemic brought life to a standstill. During the lockdown, many residents of the Kathmandu Valley found themselves confined to their homes, with little to do except watch TV or scroll through their phones. This period saw a dramatic rise in anxiety, depression, and other mental health issues. As a result, people eagerly awaited the day when the lockdown would be lifted, allowing them to venture outdoors and seek solace in the serene green hills. This longing for nature gave rise to a thriving hiking culture in Kathmandu. Here are five must-visit hiking destinations around the Kathmandu Valley:
Shivapuri
Standing at an elevation of 2,732 meters, Shivapuri Peak is one of the most popular hiking destinations near Kathmandu. The hike begins at Budhanilkantha and takes approximately five to six hours to reach the summit. The trail winds through the dense, biodiverse forests of Shivapuri National Park, leading to Nagi Gumba, a tranquil Buddhist monastery perched atop the hill. Along the way, hikers can enjoy stunning views of the Kathmandu Valley and visit Bagdwar, believed to be the source of the Bagmati River. A large fair is held here every Nepali New Year. From Bagdwar, it takes about an hour to reach Shivapuri Peak, where a large open ground and a statue of Shivapuri Baba await. The peak offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Ganesh, Langtang, and Jugal Himalayan ranges. Shivapuri is the second-highest hill in the Kathmandu Valley and can also be accessed via Tarebhir.
Jamacho
For those seeking a shorter hike near Kathmandu, Jamacho is an ideal choice. Located at an altitude of 2,128 meters, the hike begins at the Phulbari gate. As you enter the forest, the serene environment quickly helps you forget the chaos of city life. The hike takes about three to four hours to complete and leads to a sacred Buddhist site with a monastery at the hilltop. From here, you can enjoy clear views of the Manaslu, Ganesh, and Langtang Himalayan ranges, as well as the Kathmandu Valley.
Bhasmasur
Bhasmasur, the third-highest hill in Kathmandu at 2,500 meters, is a fantastic hiking destination in the southern part of the valley. The hike starts from Hattiban and takes around six hours to reach the top. The trail passes through Hattiban Resort and Champadevi, where you can visit the Champadevi Temple and the Padmasambhava Cave. The path winds through dense forests of pine and rhododendron, offering a peaceful escape into nature.
From the summit, hikers are rewarded with panoramic views of the Langtang, Jugal, and Gaurishankar Himalayan ranges. For those looking to extend their adventure, the hike can continue to Chandragiri.
Kakani-Suryachaur
The Kakani-Suryachaur hike is a short and easy trail located to the north of Kathmandu. Situated at an altitude of 2,000 meters, the hike begins in Kakani, a popular picnic spot known for its strawberries and trout fish. The trail takes you through dense forests of pine and rhododendron within Shivapuri National Park. After about three hours, you’ll reach Suryachaur, an open ground offering spectacular sunset views. Local eateries along the way provide opportunities to enjoy a hearty meal amidst nature.
Nagarkot-Sankhu
Nagarkot, a well-known tourist destination, is famous for its sunrise and sunset views. The Nagarkot-Sankhu hike is a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life. Starting from Nagarkot Bazaar, the trail passes through an eco-trail, Kattike Bhangyang, a Tamang village, and Jaharsinghpauwa before reaching Sankhu, a charming Newari village. The hike takes about five hours and is relatively easy, offering majestic views of the Jugal and Gaurishankar Himalayan ranges. Along the way, hikers can explore traditional Tamang villages and immerse themselves in local culture.
Photos: Achitra Thieng
Bhairab Kunda: A journey to the frozen lake
Bhairab Kunda, located in Bhotekoshi Rural Municipality-1, Sindhupalchowk district, north-east of Kathmandu Valley, is a newly opened trekking destination for domestic and international travelers. Despite being close to Kathmandu Valley, Bhairab Kunda has not gained much attention, mainly due to geographical difficulties. Situated at an altitude of 4,250 meters, the lake offers stunning views of Jugal Himalayan Range and Gaurishankar Himalayan Range.
According to Hindu mythology, Bhairab Kunda, a pilgrimage and spiritual site for both Hindus and Buddhist, is believed to be the place where Lord Shiva created the sacred lake by thrusting his trident into the ground. Known for its breathtaking natural beauty, tranquil atmosphere and religious significance, the Bhairab Kunda trail leads to spellbinding mountain vistas, stunning alpine landscapes and ethnic villages.
A good friend of mine introduced this place to me and told the historical and mythological stories about this place. “Have you ever seen a frozen lake?” my friend asked me. I said no. And she proceeded to tell me that the lake will be frozen in February. The way she described the place piqued my curiosity. Upon reaching home, I started searching for the videos of Bhairab Kunda on YouTube. I was fascinated by the blue lake with mountains surrounding it. I also learned that the trek to Bhairab Kunda can be completed in two days.
The next day, I made a plan to visit Bhairab Kunda with my friend. Another friend also decided to join us on the journey. We bought some essential things needed for the trek. The same week, on Friday, we left Kathmandu for Sindhupalchowk at 11:30 am. We had two routes to go to Sindhupalchowk—one from Dhulikhel and another from Nagarkot. We decided to take the Nagarkot route, as it would be shorter for us to travel from Boudha. We were excited for the journey, as we were taking our motorcycles this time. Fortunately, the weather was on our side; it was a beautiful day and the landscapes en route were mesmerising.
We stopped for lunch by the riverside at Sukute after riding for nearly three hours. The next spot we stopped on that day was the Last Resort. We rested there for a while and had some cold drinks. Before leaving Kathmandu, we had information that the road would be nice and smooth till Daklan and we had to go off-road for around 40 km. The off-road journey was bumpy, slippery and dangerous.
We reached Listi at around 6 pm, and it was getting dark. We had to take extra caution and be careful riding in the dark. The plan was to reach Chokor Mokor, but when we reached Bagam at 7 pm we were knackered. A hotel owner at Bagam suggested that we spend the night at his place, as the road ahead was not good for traveling at night.
But we decided to press on. The road was treacherous. At some sections, we had to push our bikes. Although we were tired, we had a perfect night sky; countless twinkling stars above us.
We reached Chokor Mokor where Pasang dai, the tea house owner, was waiting for us. After keeping all our belongings in our room, we went to the kitchen to warm ourselves by the fire. We met three other people there. We had a chat with them for some time and had our dinner.
The cold was intense—water turned to ice almost instantly. Pasang dai explained the severe water shortage in the area, mentioning that he had to pay Rs 8,000 for a 500-liter tank of water. The lack of electricity and proper toilets added to the challenges.
That night, one of our fellow travelers suffered from altitude sickness and had to be taken to a lower elevation. Early the next morning, one of our friends also experienced breathing difficulties and began vomiting. After administering medication and ensuring he was stable, we started our hike to Bhairab Kunda at 6 am. The three-hour trek on stone stairs led us to the frozen lake, surrounded by majestic snow-capped peaks. The sight was priceless, and we spent glorious moments there, capturing photos and videos, offering prayers at the temple, and soaking in the serene atmosphere.
On our way back, we learned that a hut we had admired earlier had caught fire. The sight of its ashes was heartbreaking. Pasang dai explained that some travelers had likely left a fire unattended, causing the blaze. The incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of responsibility while trekking, especially in fragile environments.
We returned to Kathmandu with a mix of good and bad memories. One crucial lesson from this journey is the importance of acclimatization—never ascend to high elevations (above 4,000 meters) from low altitudes in a single day. Spending a day below 3,000 meters can help prevent altitude sickness and ensure a safer, more enjoyable trek. Bhairab Kunda is not just a destination; it’s an experience that teaches resilience, responsibility, and the beauty of nature’s untouched wonders.
Photos: Achitra Thieng
Why do most of the trekkers fall in love with Langtang?
Here the stories of every trekking route are written by the feet of the trekkers and every trekking route writes the new stories of the footsloggers. There are many trekking routes in Nepal which unfold various facets of nature along with challenges in front of the trappers. And the same surviving obstacles and challenges help them become stronger and succeed in their careers.
Langtang Valley or Lamtang Valley trek is one of the popular trekking routes of Nepal which not only give you a life-time experience but also take you up close to various towering snow capped mountains in a short period of time.
This time, with a short plan and preparations, I along with my friends decided to trek to and explore Langtang Valley.
As per the plan, we reserved a Bolero jeep. As we left the bustling streets of Kathmandu behind, the city slowly gave way to lush greenery and serene landscapes.
While we were discussing the place to have lunch, our jeep faced mechanical issues and got stuck in the middle of the road at Dharapani. We had no choice but to wait for another vehicle to pick us up. The driver said that we had to wait for around three hours for the vehicle. In the meantime, we had noodles as lunch and took photos and videos of the place for memory.
After the jeep arrived, we shifted our belongings to the new vehicle. The driver was congenial. He explained to us the stories behind the popular places on the way to Syabrubesi, the first stop of our jaunt. He even booked a hotel for us in Syabrubesi, a small town that serves as the gateway to Langtang Valley.
When we reached our hotel at Syabrubesi, we ordered our dinner as we were so exhausted after a long journey and went to bed.
The next morning, we packed all our possessions, had breakfast and got ready to start the slog. The morning was bright and cheerful. The trek started with the breathtaking and tranquil views of Bhotekoshi river. We walked by the river through a dense forest in between the hills for around three hours before stopping at Bamboo for lunch. Having a perfect lunch basking in the sun in the winter season with good friends after a long hike was really a delightful experience.
We had already booked rooms at the Friendly Guest House in Lama Hotel for that day. As we had enough time, we did not rush our way up. We were walking up and down enjoying trails in the forest rich in biodiversity, cascading waterfalls and melodic sounds of birds chirping.
When we reached Lama Hotel, it was around 4 pm. We ordered our dinner and went directly to the dining hall to sit around the fire. The cold was unbearable. Some of my friends started making foreign friends, thanks to their friendly behavior.
We had to walk around 10 hours the following day. So, we went to bed early.
The next day, the morning was cold and slightly misty. We had our breakfast and started the trek. The destination for that day was Kyanjin Gumba, the last stop of Langtang Valley trek. The trail was quite steep compared to the previous day but the dramatic and scenic views of the river, mountains and forest made us reenergized.
After walking for around two hours, we reached Riverside, a popular stopper for trekkers on the way to Langtang Valley. Surrounded by pine trees, the place is on the level of the river and has two tea houses.
The distance from Riverside to Ghodatable, another stopper for the trekkers, is around two hours.
We decided to have our lunch there. The trail from Ghodatabela to Langtang Village is quite easy and passes through traditional villages and a monastery. We can see various species of rhododendron trees, small pine and juniper trees.
Upon reaching the Langtang Village, we saw a big open ground where yaks were grazing without herder and any fear. We took around half-an-hour rest there enjoying the view.
When we were heading towards Kyanjin Gumba from Langtang Village, we saw a magical view of sunset. It was glorious and eye striking. The view had left us spellbound.
When the sun was going down, it painted the sky with vibrant colors. It changed its color from creamy yellow to fiery red, light pink and glowing orange.
That beautiful sunset brightened all our moods and even helped us forget our fatigue. We were lost in the moment gazing at the sunset.
Meanwhile, many acclaimed artists, poets and musicians in the world have been inspired by the sunsets. They have even depicted sunsets in their work to evoke feelings.
It was getting dark. But we were quite far from our destination. We turned on our headlights in order to see the way clearly. On one hand it was fun waking in the dark with the support of lights, but on the other hand we were in dire need to reach the hotel as we were hit hard by the cold wave.
In the meantime, when we crossed a small hillock. We saw a village illuminated with lights. There were big and tall buildings with every kind of facility. It was like a city. We had not thought even in our dreams about that kind of developed village far from the Capital in the lap of mountains.
All of a sudden, one of our friends looked up to the sky and admonished us to glance there. Oh my god, what a view, we saw the unreal view of stars covering the sky, which stopped us in the trail for some time.
Like every day, we kept our belongings in the rooms and went directly to the dining hall to sit around the fire to keep ourselves warm. We had our dinner and went to bed.
The next day, we woke up early in the morning to leave for Kyanjin Ri. Kyanjin Ri is divided into two parts: Lower Kyanjin Ri (4,360 meters) from sea level and Upper Kyanjin Ri (4,773 meters).
Soon we began to trek, we climbed steeply on stone stairways and along the rugged trails for around three hours to reach Lower Kyanjin Ri. It was quite hard but we made it to the top. That day, we were heading to 4,700 meters from 3,800 meters.
Upon reaching there, the Langtang Himalayan Range, which had disappeared with the darkness a day before, started smiling with the ray of sunlight in the morning. We also responded with a bright smile.
The journey was not that easy. Sometimes, the feet used to hesitate to take a step ahead. There was the world of mountains. That is why, though we were tired of walking, no one was in a mood to stop. We kept on walking. When we looked down at the Kanjin Village and Kanjin Gumba, they were basking in the sun with a peaceful countenance.
We had our breakfast at Lower Kanjin Ri as we had carried all the essentials for the same. While having breakfast, Upper Kanjin Ri was also calling us to show its splendor. We rested as much as our body needed at Lower Kyanjin Ri. In spite of having difficulties in breathing, we reached Upper Kyanjin Ri, which we were proud of.
While descending, we took a different path which was less steep and much easier than the way we took to reach the view point.
This trek became a special one. Firstly, the body got good exercise. Secondly, Eyes got to see new and jaw-dropping panoramic views. Thirdly, we got to meet new people and make friends.
Trekking is not just about walking. It is a medium to explore ourselves and the country.
In conclusion, trekking through ethereal forest trails and quaint villages talking with friendly locals, watching sparkling rivers, gigantic snow capped mountains and rhododendron trees would no wonder attract travelers and trekkers from all over the world. Ancient Kyanjin Gumba is also one the attractions of the Langtang trek, where people can meditate, enjoy the art and architecture and soak in the serene beauty and ambience. Lastly, walking up to the Lower and Upper Kyanjin Ri would unquestionably offer an awe-inspiring panoramic view of Langtang Himalayan Range, that will leave anyone speechless.
So, right away, pack your bags to deep dive into nature and to discover the magic of Langtang.
Photos: Achitra Thieng
Khumai Danda: A precious gift of nature
While searching for an unspoiled and secluded trail near the Kathmandu Valley to spend my weekend, I came to know about Khumai Danda. Situated at an altitude of 3,245 meters above the sea level, it lies to the north of Pokhara in Kaski district.
Though Khumai Danda trek, also known as the Great Machhapuchhre Trail, is a newly-developed trekking route in the Annapurna Conservation Area, it has become a popular trekking destination among the domestic tourists in a short period of time.
Upon coming to know that Khumai Danda trek is a relatively easy trek in the Annapurna region, I decided to take my mom (62) on this journey. Despite being a regular hiker and nature lover, she had not experienced the real adventure of trekking due to her busy schedule. That is why, her yearning for walking into the woods for days was limited to herself.
So, a day before the journey began, we went to Thamel to buy trekking gear for her. The new trekking shoes and stick among others brought a joyous smile of excitement on her face.
The next day, I along with my mom and a friend took a night bus to Pokhara. As it was the first time for all of us traveling in the night bus, the excitement was palpable. But the exhilaration turned into grouchiness as the bumpy road that started soon after we reached Muglin disturbed our sleep the whole night.
When I heard the conductor saying Prithvi Chowk… Prithvi Chowk, it was already 4:30 in the morning. The road was quiet and silent. As it was a chilly morning, we wanted to have tea to beat the cold but did not find any tea shop with its shutter open.
So, we decided to walk toward Harichowk from where we had to take a jeep to Ghachowk. It took us around 1:30 hours to reach Harichowk. On the way, we saw houses built in Newari architecture with decorative brick works and ornately carved windows similar to those in the Kathmandu Valley.
As we were fascinated by the old houses, design and architecture, we decided to explore the place. While walking through a narrow street, we saw temples and shops selling religious stuffs.
With curiosity, when I asked a man about the place, he said the area is popularly known as Purano Bazaar or Old Town. He said that the place is located about 4 km north of the Lakeside.
In the 17th century, Pokhara used to be a hub for trade and business with Tibet. With an objective to promote trade in Pokhara, the king of Kaski invited Newars (well known as traders) of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur to settle in the area. When the people migrated to Pokhara, they brought the Newari style engineering and culture with them.
The people have become albeit modern with changing times, while preserving their locality beautifully. We reached Harichowk at around 6 am. A man standing on the roadside announced that the jeep will leave for Ghachowk at 7 am. While waiting for the jeep, we got into a shop to have tea.
In the meantime, we saw two girls from Kathmandu waiting for the jeep. Later, we three and the two girls booked a jeep to Ghachowk for Rs 3, 000. The four-wheeler left Harichowk at 7: 15 am.
The driver, a resident of Ghachowk, was so responsive and friendly. On the way, we talked about Khumai Danda and various other matters. He said that the place became popular as normalcy returned after the Covid-19 pandemic. Lately, it has been drawing people from across the country, he said.
Though the driver was supposed to drop us at Ghachowk, he took us straight to Saripakha. We reached there at around 8 am. He also booked a hotel for us in Khumai Danda and also ordered lunch at Hilekharka.
Without wasting time, we started walking steep stone stairs from Saripakha. Just 10 to 15 minutes after leaving the beautiful hamlet, we got to see a scintillating view of Mt Machhapuchhre and Mt Annapurna.
After walking together for around 30 minutes, the two girls faced difficulties in walking and decided to abort the journey. Soon after saying ‘ciao’ to them, we reached an open ground where we saw a traditional cow shed. A herd of buffaloes were grazing nearby under the morning sun.
Not treading for more than 15 minutes, we reached Tubu. Usually, people who start their trek from Ghachowk have their lunch at Tubu. But, as we started our journey from Saripakha, we decided not to stop there. After walking for around 1:30 hours, we reached Hilekharka at 10 am. While waiting for lunch, we opted to bask in the warmth of the morning sun, enjoying the panoramic view of high Himalayas.
The nutritious and local lunch at the Green Cottage was out of the world.
We left Hilekharka at 11:30 am. Once we crossed Hilekharka, we started climbing a steep trail into the forest of rhododendron trees. For the time being, the forest was an immediate sunburn relief for us. We reached Chichimle at 12:30 pm.
As we trudged higher up to Deurali enjoying the pastoral beauty of the Bhurjung river and uninterrupted view of Mt Machhapuchhre and Mt Annapurna, we reached a place where some people were building a home stay. They offered us tea and snacks. We had tete-a-tete for around half-an-hour.
Saying goodbye to them with a promise to meet again in the future, we entered a dense forest. While walking into the forest, the sound of rustling leaves and twittering of birds recharged us. When we reached Lobruchu, some people were having noodles. We also planned to have something to muster energy but the weather suddenly became cloudy. With fear that the rain would make for a tough grind for us, we decided to reach Khumai Danda at the earliest.
It was just half-an-hour away from our destination, and snow started to fall. Though the snow brought chill air from the Himalayas ranges, we also felt lucky as the snowfall was the first of the season.
Soon after we reached Khumai Danda, Naran Dai, the owner of the Green Cottage, with a warm smile spread across his face welcomed us with masala tea and popcorn.
As the weather was cold, we went directly to the kitchen to sit around the fire.
Other hikers from Butwal and Pokhara were also relaxing in the kitchen. When they started singing and dancing, the environment became ebullient. The sad part of the journey was we could not see the sunset.
While staying in the kitchen, we made a decision that we would go to Korchan Danda (3,700 m) to see the sunrise if the weather becomes favorable. Otherwise, we would return to Pokhara. After having dinner, we went to bed.
The next morning at around 4, we saw stars twinkling in the sky. My mom told me that the weather would be clear. At around 6 o’ clock, we headed toward Korchan Danda.
When the sun started to rise above Mt Machhapuchhre to lift the mask of the night, the magical golden color made us forget all the pain and stress of our life. As we went higher, the beauty of the sun and the views also escalated. It was a dream-like moment and the best ever experience of my life.
We spent some time glancing at the unlimited richness and beauty of the snow-capped mountains and nature. We played with the snow and also took photos and videos of pristine views of the Himalayas before returning to the hotel.
The local and authentic breakfast was waiting for us at the hotel. Some people had already left the guest house and some were preparing to leave. As the weather was bright and sunny, we decided to stay that day in Khumai Danda to behold the beauty of the sunset.
Coming out of the kitchen after having breakfast, we saw a herd of mules transporting water. A man, who was looking after the mules, said that he charged Rs 400 per mule from the hotel owner for ferrying the water. As we had nothing to do, we decided to go along with the man and the mules to see the source of water.
We walked behind the mules for around an hour to reach the water source. After having lunch, we freshened up and relaxed watching clouds dancing above the gigantic Mt Machhapuchhre. As the evening slowly descended, the red glow of the setting sun started to cover the sky. In what could be termed the ‘moment of golden hour’, the view was outside of the realm of imagination.
After having dinner, we went to bed to wake up early in the morning to see the sunrise. As there is a saying: just like the days, no two sunrises are the same, we felt like the sunrise on that morning was more beautiful than the previous day. That is why, one must see the sunrise and sunset from the Khumai Danda, the precious gift of nature.
Taking all the good memories with us, we headed toward Ghachowk from where we hopped onto a jeep and drove back to Pokhara. The breathtaking views of mountains, rich vegetation, culture and lifestyle of the people have made Khumai Danda, located on the lap of Mt Machhapuchhre, an idyllic destination among the trekkers in recent days.
Photos: Achitra Thieng