30 dishes from a buffalo
Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty in India, heard about Simraungarh, a flourishing settlement deep inside the jungle. While returning from Bengal, he ordered his army to conquer it. The last king of the Karnata dynasty, Harisingh Dev, didn’t attempt to resist. Upon hearing of the approaching Tughlaq army, he abandoned the fort and fled, carrying his goddess, Tulja Bhawani, with him.
Sometime in 1324, while escaping northward, his army grew hungry. The goddess Tulja Bhawani instructed them to eat the first animal they saw in the morning, which happened to be a water buffalo. Later, Harisingh Dev’s dynasty ruled the Kathmandu Valley, integrating and establishing Newar culture.
This is the story we often hear about how the water buffalo became a staple in Nepali cuisine.
According to Bikram Vaidya, a renowned US-based chef, researcher, and writer, Harisingh Dev’s ancestors came from southern India, where the tradition of sacrificing water buffalo and consuming its meat was already well established. He suggests that they brought this practice with them. For over 2,000 years, water buffalo has remained the most prized and primary source of protein for the Newar people.
Throughout the history of the Indian subcontinent, the water buffalo has held deep cultural and ritualistic importance. Archaeological evidence from the Harappan civilization (dating back 5,000 years) depicts the sacrifice of water buffalo, highlighting its role in both sustenance and spirituality. This practice spread across regions, taking on unique expressions among different communities, including the Newars.
The tradition of eating buffalo meat, popularly known as ‘buff’, is also linked to the Mahesh Pal dynasty, which ruled parts of the Kathmandu Valley. Historical accounts suggest that buffalo meat consumption was institutionalized during their reign to promote sustainable food practices. Male buffaloes, which were not useful for dairy production, became a primary source of meat, ensuring that no part of the animal went to waste.
During the Malla dynasty (12th to 18th centuries), the Newars flourished as a community deeply engaged in trade, art, and culture. The Malla kings’ patronage of festivals and rituals reinforced the role of water buffalo in religious offerings. Male buffaloes, in particular, were used in sacrificial ceremonies during major festivals such as Dashain, Indra Jatra, and Pachali Bhairav Jatra. This tradition continues today, symbolizing the connection between the buffalo and divine appeasement.
This philosophy aligns with the modern ‘nose-to-tail’ culinary movement, which emphasizes using every part of an animal. For the Newars, this approach was both practical and celebratory. Each organ and cut of the buffalo was transformed into a delicacy, enriching their cuisine with a diverse range of flavors and textures.
According to Bikram Vaidya, when animals are slaughtered during special occasions, over 30 different dishes are prepared using various parts of the buffalo. Newar cuisine exemplifies the principle of zero waste, ensuring that every part of the male buffalo is utilized. Here is a glimpse into some of the most remarkable buffalo dishes in Newar cuisine:
- Nhyapu (Buffalo Brain): A delicacy cooked with spices, creating a creamy and rich dish.
- Tisya (Buffalo Meat): Tender cuts cooked in a variety of ways, from grilling to stewing.
- Mye (Buffalo Tongue): Marinated and grilled, valued for its chewy texture.
- Swan (Buffalo Lungs): Often stuffed and fried, showcasing innovative cooking techniques.
- Sapumhicha: A celebrated dish of buffalo tripe stuffed with bone marrow and then fried.
- Go (Stomach): Cooked in curries or stir-fried with spices.
- Sen (Buffalo Liver): Prepared with mustard oil and garlic for a rich flavor.
- Hi (Blood): Coagulated and spiced to create a savory dish.
- Chwahi (White Blood): Another unique preparation of buffalo blood.
- Dayekagu La (Cooked Meat): A staple in every feast, featuring richly spiced buffalo meat.
- Takha La (Jellied Meat): A winter delicacy made by slow-cooking meat and allowing it to set into a jelly.
- Sanya Khuna: A spiced, jelly-like preparation made from buffalo soup.
- Haku Chhwela: Smoky grilled meat marinated in spices.
- Mana Chhwela: Boiled and marinated buffalo meat.
- Bhutan: Stir-fried intestines, a crunchy and flavorful dish.
- Chhyala (Head Meat): A flavorful preparation using meat from the buffalo’s head.
- Mikha (Eyes): Cooked and spiced, exemplifying the true nose-to-tail philosophy.
- Bosyanndra (Blood-Filled Intestine): A sausage-like preparation made with seasoned blood.
- Kachila (Raw Meat): Seasoned raw minced meat, often served with toasted flatbread.
- Chyakula: A unique dish made from specific cuts of buffalo.
- Khaya Chhwela (Chicken Chhwela): An adaptation using chicken.
- Nyaya Chhwela (Fish Chhwela): A version made with fish, adding diversity to the spread.
- Jan La (Back Meat): A prized cut prepared with care.
- Takula (Large Cuts): Often slow-cooked for a tender texture.
- Twanang: Another specialty cut prepared in traditional ways.
- Hyakula: A key part of the feast, highlighting specific cuts.
- Nhyepang (Tail): Cooked with spices for a chewy delight.
- Sapu (Tripe): Used in various dishes, often paired with spicy sauces.
- Amphi Chhyala: Meat prepared using a unique method involving aged spices.
- Kaa Kwa (Meatball): Meatballs made from buffalo meat and herbs.
When I set out to discuss buffalo dishes in Newar cuisine, I knew my knowledge and language skills were limited. Additionally, I haven’t tasted many of the dishes I have described here. However, as American writer Maya Angelou once said:Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better. With this in mind, I have made an attempt, and I encourage young Nepali food lovers and food scientists to document and preserve the rich variety of buffalo dishes in Newar cuisine.
The author is a London-based R&D chef
Jala Kapur: The culinary legacy
In the lively streets of Malekhu Bazar, where the Trishuli River flows with a soothing rhythm, my childhood memories are filled with the smell of fried fish and the sound of chilled beer bottles clinking. My maternal uncle, Chabilal Marahatta, known as Chap Baje, was a local legend. He started a small stall selling fried fish and aalu chap (spicy potato cutlet fritters), which quickly became a must-stop spot for travelers on the Prithvi Highway. But what made his stall truly unforgettable was the rare appearance of Jala Kapur machha, a fish so special it turned ordinary days into celebrations.
Jala Kapur, meaning “camphor of water,” is known as the king of fish in Nepal. Its buttery texture, few bones, and melt-in-the-mouth quality made it a favorite among those who could afford it. Back then, it was considered a luxury, reserved for the elite. Chap Baje’s stall was a cultural hotspot where travelers, drivers, and officers gathered to enjoy the flavors of Nepal’s rivers.
In those days, there were no mobile phones or fancy electric freezers. Instead, we relied on kerosene-powered fridges, often repurposed from old INGO vaccination programs. These fridges were a rare luxury, and only a few shops in Malekhu Bazar could afford them. Chap Baje was one of them.
Whenever we managed to get a Jala Kapur, it was a big event. The fish, with its delicate texture and rich flavor, was saved for special guests—VIPs, officers, and influential drivers who could make or break a business with their support. I remember the excitement when a Jala Kapur arrived. My uncle would carefully divide it, saying, “This piece is for the Hakim Saab, this one for the driver, and this one for the special guest who might stop by.”
In those days, relationships were built on respect and gratitude. One such tradition was bheti—a small gift or token of appreciation. Whenever we had a prized catch like Jala Kapur or Asala, I would accompany my cousin to deliver these fish as bheti to the homes of officers and influential figures. It was a way of telling them that they were valued and ensuring their continued support.
Jala Kapur, with its firm, buttery flesh, was the star of Chap Baje’s stall. Found in the cold, fast-flowing rivers of Nepal, this fish was a symbol of purity and quality. Its delicate flavor needed little seasoning—just a sprinkle of salt, a dash of turmeric, and a hint of local spices. Whether grilled, steamed, or fried, Jala Kapur was a dish that left a lasting impression.
But Jala Kapur isn’t just delicious; it’s also incredibly nutritious. This cold-water fish is high in protein which is essential for muscle growth and repair. It’s low in fat and thus a healthy choice for weight management. It’s also rich in Omega-3 fatty acids that promotes heart health, reduces inflammation, and supports brain function besides being packed with vitamins and minerals, including Vitamin D, B-complex vitamins, and selenium, which boost immunity and overall health.Its natural diet of aquatic invertebrates enhances its nutritional profile, making it a wholesome addition to any meal.
The term Jala Kapur is a local name used in Nepal, and its scientific classification remains unclear. According to FishBase, the name Jalkapoor is associated with several species, including Pangasius pangasius, Clupisoma garua, Raiamas guttatus, Eutropiichthys murius, and Clupisoma montanum. More research is needed to accurately identify the specific species referred to as Jala Kapur in different regions of Nepal.
Jala Kapur isn’t just prized in Nepal. It’s also significant in neighboring regions like Bihar and Bangladesh. In Bihar, it’s often caught in the Gandak, Kosi, and Ganga rivers and is popular in Mithila cuisine, where it’s prepared in mustard-based curries or smoked and sun-dried for later use. In Bangladesh, it’s considered a delicacy in regions like Sylhet, Rajshahi, and Barisal, where it’s commonly prepared in Shorshe Bata Jhol (mustard-based gravy) or Panta Bhat (fermented rice dish).
One of the most beloved ways to prepare Jala Kapur is in the form of Malekhu Ko Jhol Macha, a tangy and spicy fish curry that captures the essence of Nepali cuisine. Here’s how you can make it at home:
Ingredients (Serves 4-6)
- Jala Kapur fish: 1 kg (cleaned and cut into pieces)
- Mustard oil: 3 tablespoons
- Fenugreek seeds (methi): 1 teaspoon
- Timur (Szechuan pepper): 1/2 teaspoon
- Green chilies: 4-5 (slit lengthwise)
- Tomatoes: 2 medium (chopped)
- Onions: 2 medium (finely chopped)
- Garlic: 6-7 cloves (minced)
- Ginger: 1-inch piece (grated)
- Turmeric powder: 1 teaspoon
- Red chili powder: 1 teaspoon
- Roasted mustard seeds: 2 tablespoons (ground into a paste)
- Roasted sesame seeds: 1 tablespoon (ground into a paste)
- Local Sun kagati or chuk amilo (lemon molasses): 2 teaspoons (for souring)
- Salt: To taste
- Fresh coriander leaves: For garnish
Instructions
- Clean the Jala Kapur thoroughly and marinate it with salt and turmeric powder for five minutes.
- Heat mustard oil in a deep pan until it smokes. Reduce the heat and add fenugreek seeds. Let them splutter for a few seconds.
- Add chopped onions, garlic, and ginger. Sauté until the onions turn golden brown.
- Stir in the chopped tomatoes, green chilies, turmeric powder, and red chili powder. Cook until the tomatoes soften and the oil separates.
- Gently add the marinated fish pieces to the pan. Coat them well with the spice mixture and cook for two to three minutes.
- Add the roasted mustard and sesame seed paste, along with Sun kagati juice or chuk amilo. Stir well with Timur powder to combine.
- Add two cups of water and bring the curry to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 10-15 minutes, or until the fish is tender and the flavors blend together.
- Sprinkle fresh coriander leaves on top and serve hot with steamed rice or chiura (beaten rice).
The author is a London-based R&D chef
Our beloved rayo ko saag
Rayo ko saag, or mustard greens, is more than just a leafy vegetable in Nepal. It’s a cultural icon, a nutritional powerhouse, and a symbol of Nepali identity. From traditional dishes like gundruk to modern green smoothies, this humble green continues to evolve while maintaining its timeless significance. Its ability to nourish both body and soul ensures that rayo ko saag will remain an essential part of Nepali cuisine for generations to come.
A staple of Nepali cuisine
Nepali cuisine is deeply connected to the land, relying on ingredients that have sustained its people for centuries. Among these, rayo ko saag (Brassica juncea) holds a special place in the hearts and kitchens of Nepali people. This vibrant, nutrient-rich vegetable is an integral part of the country’s culinary heritage, enjoyed across all communities and regions.
Nutritional and health benefits
Rayo ko saag is not only delicious but also packed with essential nutrients, making it a staple in the Nepali diet.
It’s high in Vitamin A, C, and K, which support vision, immunity, and bone health. It also contains folate, calcium, potassium, and magnesium for overall well-being. It contains beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, which combat oxidative stress and reduce the risk of chronic diseases.
Its high fiber content aids digestion and helps detoxify the body. The potassium in rayo ko saag helps regulate blood pressure, while its omega-3 fatty acids promote cardiovascular health. It contains glucosinolates, known for their anti-inflammatory and cancer-preventive properties.
Vitamin K and calcium contribute to strong bones, reducing the risk of osteoporosis. Its high vitamin C content strengthens the immune system. Antioxidants in the greens help maintain healthy skin and slow the aging process.
Culinary uses
Rayo ko saag is a key component of Nepali meals, often served alongside the national dish, daal bhat tarkari (lentils, rice, and vegetables). Its versatility allows it to be used in various traditional and modern dishes.
Stir-fried with garlic, ginger, and chilies, this simple dish is a staple in Nepali households. Fermented and dried mustard greens are turned into gundruk, a traditional preserved food that adds a tangy flavor to soups and curries.
It’s combined with potatoes, lentils, or other vegetables for hearty side dishes. Young mustard greens are pickled with spices and oil for a flavorful condiment. Saag paneer is a fusion dish where mustard greens are cooked with cottage cheese and spices, perfect for special occasions.
Rayo ko saag is now blended into green smoothies for a nutrient boost. Deep-fried mustard greens in chickpea batter make a crispy and flavorful snack. The greens are also blended into creamy soups or added to broths for extra nutrition. Mustard greens are being incorporated into global cuisines, from pasta to stir-fries.
Cultivation and sustainability
Rayo ko saag is a hardy, cool-season crop that thrives in various climates and soil types, making it popular for home gardens and commercial farming. It prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5 and thrives in cool temperatures and tolerates frost, making it ideal for Nepal’s mountainous regions.
It’s best grown in autumn and winter but can be cultivated year-round in temperate climates. It requires regular watering, weeding, and protection from pests like aphids and caterpillars.
While rayo ko saag is traditionally a seasonal vegetable, advancements in agriculture have enabled year-round cultivation in greenhouses and controlled environments. However, its flavor is most robust when grown in cooler temperatures, making winter the ideal season for enjoying this green.
Comparison with other greens
Though rayo ko saag is a beloved staple, Nepali cuisine also includes other nutritious greens. Chamsur ko saag (garden cress) is rich in iron and vitamin C. It has a peppery flavor but it’s less common outside Nepal. Watercress shares similar health benefits but lacks the distinct earthy taste of mustard greens. Spinach and kale are popular globally, but their taste and texture differ from rayo ko saag, offering variety but less authenticity in traditional Nepali dishes.
The essence of rayo ko saag
For me, rayo ko saag is a symbol of home and heritage. Its presence in daily meals connects families to their roots and traditions. For those living abroad, the aroma of freshly cooked rayo ko saag evokes memories of childhood and family gatherings.
Though primarily associated with Nepal, rayo ko saag is gaining global recognition for its health benefits and versatility. Ethnic grocery stores in countries with large Nepali communities often stock mustard greens, allowing the diaspora to stay connected to their culinary heritage.
Rayo ko saag is a timeless treasure in Nepali cuisine. Its nutritional value, cultural significance, and culinary versatility ensure its place in Nepali households for generations to come. Whether served traditionally or innovatively, this beloved green continues to be a symbol of health, heritage, and home.
The author is a London-based R&D chef
Modern take on phulaura
Growing up in Nepal, rainy days or chilly winter evenings often brought a sense of togetherness in our home. On those special days, when my mother had some free time and all the family members were at home, she would prepare ‘phuraula’—a traditional Nepali fritter made from coarsely ground black lentils.
We would sit around, eating phuraula straight from the kitchen, paired with steaming cups of milk tea infused with ginger and cardamom. The warm, crispy fritters and the spicy, aromatic tea were the perfect companions for those cozy moments, filling both our stomachs and our hearts.
The nostalgia of those times often takes me back to my plate, piled high with phuraula, and the joy of eating together as a family. While this recipe isn’t exactly the same as my mother’s, it’s my humble attempt to recreate the flavors and memories of those days.
Phuraula is not just a snack. It carries deep cultural and spiritual significance, particularly among the Brahmin community in Nepal. It’s often prepared during rituals and celebrations, especially on ‘shraddha’—a day of honoring and praying for one’s ancestors. On such occasions, the dish is made without garlic or onion to keep it pure and in line with traditional dietary restrictions.
However, on regular days, my mother would add garlic and onion to enhance the flavor. Ginger was her favorite spice, and our family’s version of phuraula always had a generous amount of it, making it the perfect comfort food on cold days.
But beyond its nostalgic and cultural importance, phuraula is also a dish with significant nutritional value. Lentils, particularly black lentils (kalo dal or kalo urad dal), are a powerhouse of nutrients. They are high in protein, rich in dietary fiber, and naturally gluten-free, making them a fantastic ingredient for healthy eating. Phuraula combines the goodness of these lentils with spices like ginger, which is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, and cumin, which aids digestion. This not only makes phuraula a delicious snack but also a healthful one.
Phuraula recipe
Ingredients
- 200 g black lentils (kalo dal) or black gram (kalo urad dal)
- 1 tbsp ginger, finely grated (optional but recommended for a warming flavor)
- 2 green chilies, finely chopped
- 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
- 1/4 tsp turmeric powder (optional)
- 10 g coriander leaves, finely chopped
- 5 g salt (or to taste)
- Mustard oil or regular oil for frying
Optional (for regular family days)
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 2-3 garlic cloves, minced
Instructions
- Wash the black lentils thoroughly and soak them in water for six to eight hours or overnight. Drain the lentils and grind them coarsely using a mortar and pestle or a food processor. Avoid adding water to retain the texture.
- Transfer the ground lentils to a bowl. Mix in ginger, green chilies, cumin seeds, turmeric powder (if using), coriander leaves, and salt. For family versions, add the chopped onion and garlic.
- Heat mustard oil in a deep frying pan over medium heat.
- Take small portions of the mixture, shape them into rough balls or drop spoonfuls into the hot oil.
- Fry until the fritters turn golden brown and crispy, turning occasionally for even cooking.
- Remove the phuraula with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, and serve hot.
Serving suggestions
Enjoy phuraula with a hot cup of ginger and cardamom milk tea (tato tato chiya) or pair it with homemade achar or gundruk ko jhol for a more traditional touch.
Health benefits of black lentils
Black lentils (kalo dal or urad dal) are a nutrient-dense food with a range of health benefits. Black lentils are an excellent plant-based protein source, making them ideal for vegetarians and vegans.The fiber content aids digestion, promotes gut health, and helps regulate blood sugar levels. Naturally gluten-free, phuraula is a safe snack option for those with gluten intolerance or celiac disease.
Black lentils contain iron, potassium, and magnesium, which support overall health, including better oxygen flow, heart health, and strong bones. The antioxidants in lentils, combined with the anti-inflammatory properties of ginger, make this dish especially beneficial for cold weather and rainy days.
Phuraula’s simplicity and versatility make it a great candidate for modern snacks or even as an all-day dining option. Imagine having bite-sized phuraula poppers served as a side dish in cafes or as a complement to chai in tea stalls. Its portability and gluten-free nature make it an ideal snack to enjoy on the go, while the crispy texture and hearty flavor pair beautifully with various chutneys or dips.
Why not reintroduce phuraula in a contemporary way? Here are some ideas:
Phuraula sliders: Use phuraula patties in place of burger patties for a Nepali-inspired slider.
Tea-time platter: Serve phuraula as part of a platter with assorted chutneys like timur ko achar or tomato chutney.
Moveable snack packs: Package bite-sized phuraula pieces with a small container of dipping sauce for a convenient, on-the-go snack.
Phuraula wraps: Wrap crispy phuraula fritters in roti with fresh salad and a tangy yogurt sauce for a fusion meal.
All-day snack: Position phuraula as a healthier alternative to processed snacks, appealing to both traditional and modern palates.
Phuraula is a piece of Nepal’s culinary history. It reminds us of the beauty of simple, hearty meals made with love and shared with family. In a world where fast food and modern dishes dominate, let’s not forget these traditional gems that carry stories, culture, and nostalgia.
The author is London-based R&D chef
Singhara: Nepal’s aquatic treasure
‘Singhara’, also known as water chestnut or Pani Singhara in Nepal, is an aquatic vegetable traditionally cultivated in the Terai region. Over the years, this unique crop, once an important part of Nepal’s agricultural heritage, has faded into obscurity. Despite its rich nutritional profile and cultural significance, singhara farming has declined. However, with global interest in nutritious and exotic vegetables growing, singhara presents an opportunity for Nepal to revive a forgotten treasure with both economic and cultural value.
Singhara holds a special place in the hearts of many Nepalis, especially those from the Terai. It was once a staple during festive seasons, freshly harvested from local ponds and marshes. Its crisp, white flesh was a nostalgic treat after the monsoon season. Today, however, fewer farmers are growing singhara, despite its long-standing tradition and economic potential.
In Nepal, singhara is more than just a crop. It’s a symbol of health and religious practice. During certain Hindu festivals, singhara is consumed in various forms, such as fresh, boiled, or ground into flour, especially during fasting periods. Singhara flour, gluten-free and highly nutritious, has long been a fasting food staple. This versatility and nutritional value have made singhara a cherished crop in Nepal.
Water chestnuts (scientific name Eleocharis dulcis) are not nuts, as often assumed, but aquatic tubers. They grow submerged in ponds, marshes, and paddy fields, thriving in the Terai’s waterlogged fields during the monsoon season. The crop is harvested when the outer bulb turns brown, signaling that it’s ready for consumption. Singhara farming, while rewarding, is labor-intensive and requires specific marshy conditions, which are abundant in the Terai. These fields also contribute to local wetland biodiversity, supporting diverse ecosystems.
Nutritionally, singhara is packed with dietary fiber, potassium, manganese, and vitamin B6. These nutrients support heart health, digestion, and mood regulation. Its high water content and low calorie count make it ideal for weight management, while its antioxidant profile, particularly due to ferulic acid, helps protect against cell damage. Singhara retains its crunch even after cooking, making it popular worldwide for its unique texture and versatility.
In traditional medicine, singhara is valued for its health benefits, including relief from asthma, skin conditions, and reproductive health support. It’s also believed to help regulate blood pressure and cool the body. These medicinal properties, combined with its refreshing taste, make singhara an ideal addition to health-conscious diets.
Globally, water chestnuts are a common ingredient in Asian cuisines, particularly in Chinese, Thai, and Indian dishes. Their crunchy texture and refreshing taste make them a popular choice for stir-fries, soups, and salads. Singhara has also found a place in Western holiday cuisine, with demand peaking around Christmas, where it’s often used in stuffing for festive dishes. This growing global demand presents a significant opportunity for Nepal to export singhara.
Nepal’s singhara, marketed as a premium, exotic product with cultural significance, could appeal to buyers in the U.S., U.K., and Europe. Nepali farmers could consider exporting singhara in various forms, including fresh, canned, and as singhara flour. Singhara flour holds particular promise as a gluten-free, high-fiber alternative to wheat flour, which is increasingly in demand in international markets. Additionally, singhara is a common ingredient in fasting foods, which creates seasonal demand during religious periods.
Despite its potential, singhara farming faces significant challenges. The traditional methods of cultivation are labor-intensive, and many farmers lack awareness of singhara’s economic value. The absence of a structured supply chain and processing facilities limits the crop’s scalability. To revitalize singhara farming, farmers need support to modernize cultivation techniques and access markets.
Investment in infrastructure, such as processing facilities for cleaning, peeling, and packaging, is crucial to making singhara a viable export. With government support, singhara farming could provide economic benefits to the Terai region, giving farmers a new source of income while preserving an important part of Nepal’s agricultural heritage.
Efforts to revive singhara farming could include educating farmers on modern cultivation methods and providing training on efficient harvesting techniques. Building processing and packaging facilities would allow farmers to export fresh, canned, or powdered singhara products. By partnering with international buyers, singhara could be positioned as a unique, premium product that is both nutritious and deeply rooted in Nepali culture.
A strategic marketing campaign could also highlight singhara’s health benefits and cultural significance. By branding Nepali singhara as a high-quality, traditional product, Nepal could attract global consumers interested in health-conscious foods. Singhara could also appeal to a new generation of Nepali consumers, eager to reconnect with traditional foods. Its versatility in contemporary Nepali cuisine could inspire the creation of new singhara-based products, such as snacks and health supplements.
Internationally, singhara’s health benefits and culinary appeal could help it gain a foothold in health-conscious and gourmet markets. Its ability to maintain its crunchy texture even after cooking makes it particularly attractive to consumers in countries where water chestnuts are less common. As a gluten-free flour, singhara flour could be marketed to health food stores, catering to those with dietary restrictions.
Singhara could also capitalize on seasonal demand, especially around Christmas, by positioning it as a premium holiday ingredient. This would allow Nepali farmers to meet global demand during the festive season, offering fresh, high-quality water chestnuts.
Revitalizing singhara farming offers Nepal a chance to preserve its agricultural heritage, create economic opportunities for local farmers, and tap into global markets. By investing in singhara, Nepal can return to its agricultural roots while opening new doors for international recognition and sustainable income.
With strategic support, singhara can go from a forgotten crop to a valuable export, connecting Nepal’s past with its future. For Nepalis farmers, singhara offers renewed livelihoods and a chance to share a unique piece of Nepal with the world. Rediscovering singhara means reclaiming an important chapter in Nepal’s agricultural history and unlocking its potential for both local communities and global markets.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Discovering buckwheat momo
Buckwheat, known as ‘phapar’ in Nepal, is a humble crop with extraordinary potential. A pseudo-cereal and naturally gluten-free, buckwheat is packed with nutrients and thrives in Nepal’s high-altitude, cool climates. Its adaptability and health benefits have made it a staple in Nepal’s hilly regions, where it sustains communities like the Gurkhas, Sherpas, and Buddhist monks.
This versatile crop holds the promise of becoming a global superfood while preserving Nepal’s rich culinary heritage. But the problem is, as Bishnu Bilas Adhikari, an agriculture scientist, writes in his paper, “The demand of buckwheat in Nepal is increasing annually due to its multiple uses, which is not fulfilled from the Nepalis production. Buckwheat is imported from different countries including India, China, USA annually.”
Despite its historic significance, my appreciation for buckwheat grew after a trip to Tokyo in 2014. At a small soba noodle shop, I savored a cold soba noodle salad prepared by an elderly chef. This experience highlighted the depth of buckwheat’s flavor and versatility. Back in Nepal, my encounter with ‘phapar ko dhido’ at a roadside eatery in Chitwan reaffirmed its culinary potential. The dish, similar to polenta, was served with local chicken, ghee, and a variety of accompaniments, showcasing how buckwheat can be the star of both traditional and modern plates.
The dhido was served as part of a traditional thali, accompanied by an array of local and seasonal vegetables, kalo daal (black lentils), stone-ground chutney, fermented radish pickle, crispy potato straw, gundruk ko achar (fermented leafy greens), and more. Each element of this meal complemented the phapar ko dhido, creating a symphony of flavors that showcased the depth and versatility of buckwheat.
This experience opened my eyes to the potential of phapar as a culinary hero. A more recent experience at Siddhartha Café introduced me to buckwheat momo—delicate dumplings with a nutty flavor. This innovative take on a beloved Nepali dish demonstrated how phapar could elevate gourmet cuisine while maintaining its roots. Siddhartha Hospitality Group, a pioneer in Nepali cuisine, presented buckwheat momo with such skill that I became an even bigger fan. The phapar momo, delicate yet packed with flavor, showed how this humble crop could be elevated to gourmet status.
Buckwheat is a sustainable crop that requires minimal water and grows in poor soil, making it ideal for Nepal’s rugged terrain. As the world embraces sustainable and health-conscious foods, buckwheat’s low environmental impact positions it as a key player in global agriculture. Nepal can market buckwheat as a Himalayan superfood emphasizing its connection to the Gurkhas, Sherpas, and Buddhist monks, who symbolize strength, resilience, and simplicity.
The versatility of buckwheat opens doors for creative culinary applications. We can incorporate buckwheat into dishes like soba noodles, pancakes, or Nepali-inspired momo and dhido. Additionally, we could also tap into the growing demand for gluten-free alternatives by promoting buckwheat-based breads, noodles, and snacks and highlight its low water usage and adaptability to appeal to eco-conscious consumers.
Phapar’s nutty, earthy taste pairs beautifully with Nepali fillings such as spiced greens or curried meat. Serve buckwheat momo with tangy tomato achar flavored with timur (Sichuan pepper) and mustard oil for an authentic experience.
By exploring its culinary potential and health benefits, buckwheat can reconnect younger generations to their heritage while attracting global food enthusiasts. With its rich history and adaptability, phapar is poised to become a celebrated superfood, embodying the resilience of Nepal’s people and landscapes.
With proper branding, Nepal can position buckwheat as a premium export. By sharing recipes and introducing phapar to global markets, Nepal can preserve its culinary traditions while reaching new audiences. But for that, we need to increase the production of Buckwheat. As Agriculture scientist Adhikari writes in his paper, “In case of high hills like Mustang, Manang, Dolpa, Mugu, Solukhumbu etc. where buckwheat is a major summer crop, there is still potential to increase its production and productivity.”
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
From Malekhu to global culinary heights
When I received the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Asian Curry Awards 2024 in London on November 17, memories of my journey flooded back—from my maternal uncle’s small eatery in Malekhu to the grand gala dinners of the Western world.
My father served over 24 years in the Indian Army as a Gurkha Lahure, often far from home. This left my mother to shoulder the family and social responsibilities alone. Naturally, I found myself helping in the kitchen, cooking for the family. I proudly say, “I’m my mother’s son,” because my culinary journey began with her.
From my mother, I learned the importance of simplicity in cooking: Use what is available, cook quickly, make it healthy, and ensure every meal feels like home. She always relied on local and seasonal ingredients. This philosophy of simplicity, speed, and health became the foundation of my culinary journey.
As I grew up, I spent time at my maternal uncle’s house. Both of my uncles were hoteliers, not in the five-star sense but as owners of roadside tea stalls serving Nepali khana sets and snacks to travelers along the Prithvi Highway. One uncle, Chabilal Maraharra, was the visionary behind Malekhu Macha Bazar. He popularized Malekhu ko Macha, a local fish delicacy paired with aloo chop (crispy potato cutlet fritters) with tangy tomato chutney. This creation turned Malekhu into a culinary brand. At his eatery, I discovered the power of commercial cooking and learned the basics of the hospitality business.
Today, Malekhu is synonymous with fried fish, but it was my uncle’s goat meat curry that defined the Nepali Khana set. His expertise earned him the nickname Chop Baje. Inspired by him, my cousin opened Hilltop, a high-end roadside eatery, and other members of my family have carried forward this legacy, continuing to serve travelers along the highways connecting Kathmandu, Pokhara, and Chitwan.
I was a part of this culinary heritage. Raised in Pokhara and Malekhu’s vibrant roadside eateries, I later moved to Kathmandu. Life in the capital introduced me to Newari bhatti pasals, which I consider as integral to Nepali culture as tapas bars are to Spain or pubs to Ireland. These humble establishments are unsung heroes of our food culture, bringing people together over authentic local flavors.
Another culinary influence was my aunt, a Newar from Patan, who could whip up a traditional Nepali Khana set in minutes. Beyond her cooking skills, she was also an architect and designer. From her, I learned the art of plating, balance, and respecting local ingredients.
This boy from Malekhu eventually reached some of the world’s most prestigious kitchens. I had the honor of cooking for the Ambani family during their non-stop flight from Los Angeles to Mumbai, preparing every dish served—soups, canapés, appetizers, main courses, desserts, and breakfasts. Knowing they trusted only my food for this significant journey filled me with immense pride.
I also cooked for the former Saudi prince, now King Mohammed bin Salman, during a crucial trip to Imola, Italy, at the height of COVID-19. This mission was critical as he negotiated a Formula 1 contract for Jeddah. I’ve served at Augusta for the Gulf Masters, catered for Bernie Ecclestone and his family, and participated in events like Formula 1 and the FIFA World Cup.
Each chapter of my journey holds significance, but nothing compares to the pride I felt on award day. Receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Asian Curry Awards from the Asian Catering Federation was a moment of triumph. Held in London—the curry capital of the world—the event was attended by UK ministers, Lords, mayors, and pioneers from the Asian hospitality industry, along with over 200 media personalities.
The Asian Catering Federation (ACF), representing 30,000 Asian and Oriental restaurants of the UK, organizes these awards to honor all Asian cuisines, from Bangladeshi and Indian to Korean, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and beyond.
Standing on that stage, I reflected on the journey that brought me here—from cooking simple meals with my mother to representing Nepal on a global platform. This award was not just for me. It was for my family, my community, my fraternity, and my country. This achievement is a milestone, but my journey is far from over.
After receiving this honor, my focus has shifted to nurturing the next generation. I aim to mentor young talent, guiding them to achieve greatness and take Nepal’s culinary identity to even greater heights. I envision a future where they stand on global stages, earning accolades and inspiring others.
The future of our industry lies with the next generation. They bring fresh ideas, creativity, and a drive to innovate. As seasoned professionals, it’s our duty to equip them with the tools, knowledge, and platforms they need to succeed.
My vision is to help these young chefs navigate the challenges of the culinary world while preserving the rich traditions that define our craft. I hope to see them become culinary heroes who lead with integrity, passion, and a commitment to excellence.
By empowering the next generation, we ensure our legacy endures. The culinary fraternity is not just about individual achievements. It is about collective progress and shared success.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef
Journey from Tom and Jerry to Mystic Kitchen of Nepal
Recently, Chef Bikram Vaidya launched his well-researched cookbook, ‘Mystic Kitchen of Nepal’, in Nepal. However, the event received little attention from mainstream media. The cookbook had its initial release in the United States on Oct 26.
Vaidya describes the book as the culmination of over 20 years of study, research, and practice. “Mystic Kitchen of Nepal is more than just a cookbook—it’s a celebration of the deep connection between food, culture, and community, from the soil to the soul,” he says.
The book has already been recognized by the prestigious James Beard Awards, often referred to as the ‘Oscars’ of the culinary world. These awards honor excellence in the food industry, including chefs, food writers, and other leaders in the broader food system.
Featuring over 140 original recipes, Mystic Kitchen of Nepal reflects Nepal’s rich landscapes and diverse cultures. Alongside the recipes, the book provides commentary on the historical and cultural significance of each dish.
Vaidya is a graduate of the Western Culinary Institute/Le Cordon Bleu and a founding member of the Oregon Culinary Institute in the United States. He has spent decades teaching and inspiring others in the culinary field. His journey has taken him from Kathmandu’s vibrant food scene to the classrooms of prestigious institutions, blending Western culinary techniques with Nepal’s ancient traditions.
Vaidya has always been a source of inspiration, a true mentor, and a warm, guiding presence in my life. With a heart as generous as his vast knowledge, he has shaped my understanding of Nepali cuisine and culture in ways that only a brother—or ‘Kija,’ as he fondly calls me—could. From our earliest conversations, I knew he was more than just a chef; he is a cultural ambassador, a preserver of heritage, and a visionary. It’s no surprise that his book, Mystic Kitchen of Nepal, a beautifully researched and heartfelt work, embodies these qualities, encapsulating his journey from the vibrant Tom and Jerry Bar in Kathmandu to the culinary classrooms of the Oregon Culinary Institute and Le Cordon Bleu.
Mystic Kitchen of Nepal is a living narrative of Nepal’s culinary and cultural heritage, a personal biography, and a history book rolled into one. As I read through the pages, it became clear that each recipe and story is woven with a depth that only someone with his lineage could bring to life. The author, a proud member of the Vaidya family, carries a legacy of Ayurvedic knowledge and spiritual insight. His ancestors, including a great-grandfather who traveled to the UK to teach Ayurveda, planted a seed that he has nurtured throughout his life’s work.
The book represents a full-circle moment for Vaidya, as he brings his love for Nepali food and culture to a global audience. His work is rooted in his family’s legacy of Ayurvedic knowledge and spiritual insight. His ancestors, including a great-grandfather who traveled to the UK to teach Ayurveda, have deeply influenced his understanding of food as both nourishment and medicine.
Mystic Kitchen of Nepal delves into Ayurvedic principles, Newari cuisine, and Nepal’s rich culinary traditions. Vaidya explores the philosophy of ‘Aila,’ the ritual Newari rice spirit, and highlights the intricate balance between food, health, and spirituality in Nepali cooking.
For many, Vaidya’s name is synonymous with Kathmandu’s iconic Tom and Jerry Bar, a venue that earned a mention in The New York Times as a must-visit spot. Tom and Jerry Bar served as a cultural hub where Vaidya introduced authentic Nepali flavors to locals and travelers. This early success paved the way for his culinary journey, culminating in the creation of Mystic Kitchen.
The cookbook showcases dishes from every corner of Nepal, from the Himalayan regions of Mustang and Manang to the Tarai plains and the mid-hills. The recipes combine traditional Nepali flavors with influences from Vaidya’s international experiences, creating a blend that is both authentic and innovative.
Reading Mystic Kitchen of Nepal is an immersive experience. Each ingredient and recipe is presented with respect to its cultural and historical origins. A student from the Oregon Culinary Institute shared a poignant memory of Vaidya explaining the spiritual significance of spices, recounting how wars were fought and lives lost over their trade. This depth of understanding permeates the book, elevating it beyond a simple collection of recipes.
The book also celebrates beloved Nepali staples, including momo—dumplings that hold a special place in Nepali cuisine. Vaidya preserves traditional recipes while adding his own creative touch. He captures the essence of momo, from the bustling street stalls of Kathmandu to the flavorful chutneys that accompany them.
In addition to food, Mystic Kitchen highlights Nepal’s drinking culture, particularly the Newari tradition of Aila. By including this, Vaidya introduces readers to an essential yet often overlooked aspect of Nepali dining, emphasizing the interplay between food and drink in traditional meals.
Vaidya’s book has the potential to elevate Nepal’s culinary heritage to the global stage. Its meticulous research and focus on preservation align with efforts to have Newari cuisine recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. By documenting traditional recipes and rituals, Mystic Kitchen ensures that these cultural treasures are not lost to time.
The book also serves as a love letter to old Kathmandu, capturing the sensory richness of its streets, spice markets, and traditional bars. Vaidya recounts memories of places like Ason and Basantapur, painting a vivid picture of the city’s food culture. He introduces readers to hidden momo stalls and historic Bhattis, preserving a piece of Nepal’s history through his storytelling.
Beyond its focus on Nepal, Mystic Kitchen highlights the influence of neighboring cultures on the country’s cuisine. Vaidya’s 15 years of research reveal how regional and cross-border connections have enriched Nepali dishes, making his book a bridge between traditions.
Mystic Kitchen of Nepal is a cultural milestone. Through his work, he has captured the soul of Nepal and shared it in a way that will inspire generations. This book is a testament to the power of tradition, the depth of Nepali culture, and the enduring connection between food and identity.
The author is a UK-based R&D chef