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After nearly three decades of delays and unfulfilled promises, the long-awaited blacktopping of the Baddichaur-Khambagade road section—a key route connecting western Surkhet—is finally set to move forward. This comes after the government recently granted permission to cut down trees that had been obstructing the upgrade work.

The 13-kilometer road, opened nearly 30 years ago, has long remained in poor condition, despite repeated pledges from political leaders and its inclusion in the Madan Bhandari Highway project. Locals have often described the road as more of a burden than a benefit due to its deteriorated state and the lack of development progress.

Although a contract was signed in 2022 to upgrade the road, the work had stalled for three years due to the absence of clearance to fell trees along the route. That impasse has now been resolved following a tripartite agreement between the Department of Forest and Soil Conservation, the Karnali Province Infrastructure Development Directorate, and the Madan Bhandari Highway Project Directorate, authorizing the felling of 864 trees.

With this clearance, authorities expect work to gain momentum. “The road upgrade contract was awarded in 2022, but we couldn’t proceed due to the tree-cutting issue. Now, the process is moving ahead, and blacktopping will be completed within this fiscal year,” said Surya Bahadur Shahi, head of the Infrastructure Development Directorate, Surkhet. The project deadline has now been extended to June 2026.

So far, only 25 percent of the work has been completed, including the construction of drains, support walls, and culverts on six kilometers of the stretch between Baddichaur Bazaar and Givinay, and one kilometer towards Khambagade. Work on the remaining portion, especially around Byureni, was halted due to tree-related obstacles.

Initially, a Rs 424.761m contract was signed with Anak Jayadevi JV, Banke. However, due to poor performance by Jayadevi, Anak Construction has now taken over full responsibility. Construction is expected to resume after Dashain, once the tree-felling is completed.

Despite being a segment of a national highway, the federal government had shown little interest, leading the Karnali provincial government to step in and fund the project. The province has allocated Rs 420m to complete the work. Local residents remain cautiously optimistic, hoping this time the promises will be fulfilled—and that a road once emblematic of neglect will finally serve as a vital link for the region.

In Karnali Province, fatal accidents continue to claim lives as residents are forced to cross rivers using tuins—makeshift cable crossings—due to the absence of proper bridges. Despite repeated tragedies, progress on building safe infrastructure remains slow, putting lives at daily risk.

On 7 Oct 2023, Makar Singh Nepali (38) of Soru Rural Municipality-5, Mugu, died while crossing the Karnali River via a tuin in Sarkegad Rural Municipality, Humla. The cable snapped, sending him plunging into the river. His body was recovered a month later.

Just a day later, on Oct 8, Tula Bohara (55) of Mudkechula Rural Municipality, Dolpa, fell into the Jagadulla River while trying to cross in a canoe—her only option after a bridge was destroyed by floods in 2019. She did not survive.

Another tragedy occurred when Bhuwame Khadka of Junichande Rural Municipality-4, Jajarkot, died after falling from a canoe while crossing the Chhedagarh River. In a similar incident a few years ago, Harisingh Khadka and Bir Bahadur Khadka were seriously injured.

These incidents represent only a small fraction of the accidents occurring across the province. Locals report that injuries, disappearances, and deaths due to unsafe crossings have become tragically routine. Yet, there is no comprehensive record of tuin-related fatalities. The Karnali Provincial Police Office in Surkhet has documented just three deaths and two injuries from tuin incidents since 2018, although locals insist the actual numbers are much higher. “What was meant to be a lifeline has become a symbol of fear and death,” said a resident of Humla.

In Sarkegad and similar areas, both residents and elected officials risk their lives daily crossing rivers on tuins. “There is no bridge here,” said local resident Aiti Phadera. “We cross the Karnali with our eyes closed, praying to our ancestral gods.” From transporting food and firewood to taking the sick for treatment, tuins are still widely used. Children also risk their lives every day on their way to school.

Preliminary data from the Ministry of Physical Infrastructure and Urban Development shows that 55 tuin systems remain active in eight of Karnali’s ten districts. Humla has the highest number (15), followed by Kalikot (12), Jajarkot (12), and Surkhet (eight). Only Rukum Paschim and Jumla have no active tuins. Officials said the data was gathered through public notices and will be verified through on-site surveys.

To address the crisis, the Karnali Province Planning Commission has pledged to construct 496 suspension bridges within five years, increasing the total number from 1,304 to 1,800 by the end of the fiscal year 2025/26. This goal is part of the province’s second five-year development plan.

However, locals and social activists say progress has been slow and uneven. “Some tuins are tied to trees with frayed ropes—disaster can strike at any moment,” said local activist Bindulal Regmi. In some places, people are even charged to cross: Rs 1,000 for motorcycles and Rs 100 per person—an added burden for those already struggling.

Devaki Timalsina, Vice-chairperson of Sarkegad Rural Municipality, emphasized the need for coordinated action. “Our people are dying. This cannot go on,” she said. “The local, provincial, and federal governments must come together to build the bridges Karnali urgently needs.”

Though the region is now connected to the national road network, many remote communities still lack basic infrastructure like bridges. Until that changes, people will continue to cross rivers with prayer on their lips—and fear in their hearts.

Karnali is emerging as a popular destination for both domestic and international tourists. Recent data shows that tourist arrivals in the province have increased by 11 percent, with around 550,000 visitors recorded over a six-month period.

This growth is attributed to the promotion of tourist sites, improved physical infrastructure, better road access, and the availability of quality hotels. Karnali boasts several major attractions, including Rara Lake—the largest in Nepal—along with Kankrevihar Temple, the Panchkoshi area, Shey-Phoksundo Lake, Kupinde and Bulbule Lakes, Pachal Falls, the historic Sinja civilization, and ancient palaces and temples. Additionally, Karnali has become a gateway to Tibet’s sacred Mansarovar, drawing more religious tourists.

A recent study conducted by the Nepal Rastra Bank’s Karnali Provincial Office in Surkhet examined tourism development and tourist flow in the province. According to the report, tourist activity in Karnali has seen a notable rise compared to previous years.

In the first six months of the last fiscal year, 550,000 tourists visited Karnali. Among them, Indian visitors increased by 12.82 percent, Chinese visitors by 3.69 percent, and tourists from other countries by 13.34 percent. Overall, tourist arrivals rose by 11.09 percent during this period. For comparison, Indian tourist numbers had grown by 8.64 percent in the previous fiscal year, while Chinese tourist arrivals saw a 14.4 percent rise in 2024/25.

Despite the encouraging numbers, the Nepal Rastra Bank emphasized the need for additional strategies to boost tourism in Karnali. The report suggests that with better management of transport (air and road), lodging facilities (hotels and homestays), and recreational offerings, the number of visitors could rise significantly. It also notes that investment in tourism infrastructure, backed by federal and provincial policies, could improve the living standards of Karnali residents.

Responding to the growth, the Karnali Provincial Government has prioritized tourism development. A Tourism Promotion and Development Committee has been formed to identify and promote potential destinations across the province. According to committee member Bhanubhakta Khadka, efforts are underway to implement a tourism circuit model with informational boards in all 10 districts.

Starting in fiscal year 2025/26, the government plans to develop sustainable infrastructure and enhance tourism services. Additionally, it is preparing to launch the ‘Gantabya Karnali’ app to provide visitors with detailed information on destinations and services throughout the region.

Since 2017, four governments have been formed in Karnali, all of which have upheld the vision of making Karnali an organic province. The initiative began with the first state government under Chief Minister Mahendra Bahadur Shahi, whose government prioritized this goal in its inaugural meeting. Since then, the concept of an organic province has been a recurring theme in the provincial government’s policies and programs.

However, progress on making Karnali an organic province has been slow. The provincial government is now focusing on a key step: banning chemical pesticides. To achieve this, the government has outlined two main strategies: first, prohibiting the entry of pesticide-laden food products from outside Karnali, and second, eliminating the use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers within the province. These strategies aim to make Karnali a pesticide-free region.

Karnali currently imports vegetables, fruits, and other food items from India and other provinces, many of which are at risk of containing pesticide residues. Additionally, pesticides are still being used in agriculture within the province. Given these challenges, transitioning to a pesticide-free or organic province will not be easy. Nonetheless, Minister of Land Management, Agriculture, and Cooperatives Binod Kamar Shah, who is also the spokesperson for the provincial government, is committed to the plan. He stated: "We will not allow our citizens to consume food contaminated with pesticides under any circumstances. We will stop pesticide-laden food at the main entry points and discourage the use of chemical pesticides within Karnali."

In the first phase, the government plans to raise awareness among farmers, encouraging them to switch from chemical to organic fertilizers and pesticides. Minister Shah highlighted the harmful effects of chemical pesticides on human health and the environment, emphasizing that the government's organic province plan aims to address these issues. "We will make Karnali an organic province with the cooperation of everyone," he said, assuring collaboration between provincial and local governments.

Pesticide testing at checkpoints

To prevent pesticide-contaminated products from entering Karnali, pesticide testing will be conducted at the main entry points. The provincial government is establishing pesticide testing laboratories at Harre in Surkhet and Kapurkot in Salyan, two key checkpoints. Buildings for these laboratories have already been constructed, and operations are set to begin this year. The government plans to only allow pesticide-free food into Karnali once the testing system is fully operational at these borders.

Minister Shah noted that vegetables and fruits currently arriving through these checkpoints often contain pesticides, but this will change once the testing labs are operational. Any produce found to contain pesticides will be barred from entering the province.

In addition to border controls, the government will conduct public awareness campaigns and monitor local farmers to ensure they are not using chemical pesticides. Minister Shah also mentioned plans to introduce new legislation on pesticide management, which will penalize those who compromise public health by using harmful pesticides.

Meanwhile, a pesticide laboratory has been established in Birendranagar by the Central Agricultural Laboratory under the Ministry of Agriculture and Livestock Development. Once operational, it will test samples of vegetables and fruits before they are sold. If pesticide levels exceed permissible limits, the contaminated produce will be destroyed. "We are consuming vegetables and fruits along with the pesticides they contain," said Mahesh Chandra Acharya, head of the Central Agricultural Laboratory. "This laboratory will ensure that only safe, edible items reach the market."

If more than 45 percent pesticide residue is detected in any sample, the produce will be destroyed, Acharya explained.

Local officials are also emphasizing the importance of awareness. Nilakantha Khanal, deputy head of Birendranagar municipality, stressed the need to educate farmers about the benefits of pesticide-free food. District Coordination Committee chief Gangaram Sunar believes that Karnali can achieve its organic province goal by encouraging farmers to adopt organic practices. Similarly, Chitra Rokaya, head of the Integrated Agricultural Laboratory, urged the government to promote pesticide-free production throughout the region.

Greetings from the picturesque and remote landscapes of Karnali! Here, where the sun is known to rise in the east and set in the west, I found myself witnessing a rare phenomenon—the sun rising from the west, or rather, from the heart of Karnali. And what led me to this unique experience? A travel grant to the UN Climate Summit COP28 in Dubai, courtesy of UNDP. As I pen down my thoughts, let me take you on a journey through the lens of a journalist from the often-overlooked Karnali province, who found himself amidst the global discourse on climate change.

They say the first time is always special, and indeed, I stand as possibly the first journalist from Karnali to attend the COP28. It was not just an opportunity but a responsibility to bring the unheard voices of my region to the forefront, and I was ready for the challenge. My preconceived notions about climate change were shattered like glass. It was not merely about taps running dry in Surkhet or the ravaging floods and droughts. COP28 unfolded before me a complex tapestry of issues—loss and damage, climate financing, and a plethora of intricacies I had not fathomed before. My understanding of climate change took a leap from the shallow waters into the depth of its complexities.

One of the most surprising revelations was the structure of COP itself. Before attending COP, I thought COP meant a grand conference hall with high-profile individuals delivering eloquent speeches while we applauded. To my amazement, there were numerous meetings and pavilions, each dedicated to different topics and countries passionately raising their concerns. Amidst this diverse gathering, Nepal stood out, but not for the reasons I anticipated. 

Our officials seemed fixated on a singular demand—money. While other nations showcased innovative solutions and offered assistance, Nepal appeared to be on a different wavelength, asking for financial support without contributing substantial ideas or learning from others. We should perhaps focus more on what we can offer, what policies we have in place, and learn from the successes of others.

The international community, in response to Nepal’s grant requests, expressed doubts about our capacity to utilize the funds effectively. Instead of wholeheartedly supporting our plea, they questioned why Nepal struggled to maximize the benefits from existing grants. It was a stark reality check, urging us to introspect on our implementation strategies. On a lighter note, for my fellow journalists, having a press pass is the golden key to expedited access. My lack of one led me to endure a three-hour queue before gaining entry to the conference venue. Note to self: Always secure that press pass!

As I reflect on this unparalleled opportunity bestowed upon me by UNDP, I can’t help but advocate for similar chances for journalists outside the Kathmandu bubble. There’s a treasure trove of stories waiting to be uncovered in Madhes Province, Sudurpaschim Province, and even in remote districts of Karnali. UNDP, you’ve opened a door; let’s ensure more windows are unlatched for those in the overlooked corners of our nation. In closing, from the heart of Karnali to the global stage in Dubai, my journey at COP28 has been nothing short of extraordinary. The sun may rise in the east, but the stories from the west are equally compelling and deserve a place in the grand narrative of climate change.

A fruit promotion program is being implemented in nine districts of Karnali Province, with the aim of uplifting the living conditions of local communities.

According to the Nuts and Fruits Development Project Implementation Unit in Surkhet, the ambitious program will be rolled out across 20 local units within the province. The focus of the initiative will be on the cultivation and commercialization of fruits such as apples and oranges, along with nuts like walnuts, groundnuts, and pecan nuts.

Chitra Bahadur Rokaya, the project manager, said Karnali has immense potential for fruit farming which is already a significant source of income for many farmers. The program seeks to expand and promote fruit and nut farming in the selected local units of these nine districts, he added.

As part of the initiative, apple farming will be expanded to cover 1,450 hectares, while orange, walnut, pecan nuts, and groundnut farming will extend to 350, 600, 100, and 100 hectares, respectively. The program will specifically promote apple and walnut farming in Jumla, Dolpa, Humla, Mugu, and Kalikot. Meanwhile, orange, groundnut, and pecan nut farming will be promoted in Dailekh, Jajarkot, Salyan, and Rukum West districts.

The unit plans to collaborate with large-scale cooperatives and private sector companies to promote nuts and fruits farming. Farmers with at least four ropani of land are eligible for selection in the program. Funding for the initiative will be facilitated through concessional loans, partial grants, and equalization grants, Rokaya added. “Proposals for investments up to Rs 5m will be handled by the unit itself, while those above Rs 5m will be forwarded to our central office,” he added.

According to the unit, the program will be implemented in Banphikot, Musikot, Sani Bheri, Dhorchaur and Sharada of Salyan; Chhedagad and Junichande of Jajarkot; Aathabis, Narayan and Chamunda Bindrasaini of Dailekh; Shubhakalika and Narharinath of Kalikot; Hima, Sinja and Kanaksundari of Jumla; Khatyad and Soru of Mugu; Tanjakot and Adanchuli of Humla; and Mudkechula of Dolpa.

The program will be divided into three phases. The first phase will focus on creating awareness about fruit and nut farming. The second phase will emphasize production, while the third phase will center around marketing the products effectively. Along with nine districts of Karnali, the project will cover a total of 100 local units in 34 districts across the country. The targeted fruits include orange, sweet orange, lime, apple, walnut, kiwi, avocado, pecan nuts, and groundnuts. The project will cover 10,000 hectares of land and 30,000 farmers. The program is being funded by the concessional loans and grants from the Asian Development Bank.

The federal government’s plan for an industrial estate in Karnali province has not moved beyond location-scouting and feasibility study in the past five years.

Search for a suitable place for the project development began not long after the federal government announced the plan to build industrial estates in each of the seven provinces. But five years down the line, the location for the proposed industrial estate is yet to be decided.

Two locations were initially proposed—first at Satakhani and the second at Lekbesi, both in Surkhet. But the subsequent feasibility studies rejected both the sites. Two years elapsed in the process.

Two other sites—Chhinchu in Surkhet and Chupra in Dailekh—were next considered. This time, Chhinchu was proposed as an ideal site for the industrial estate, as it had a good highway and electricity access. But the proposal was never followed through.

There have been several inspections and studies for a potential project site, but none has been approved, says Jiva Narayan Banjade of Industrial District Management Limited, Birendranagar.

“The plan for the industrial estate has been limited to pow-wows and proposals,” he says. “Without confirming the project site, we can’t tell if or when the project will start.”

Industrialists in Surkhet say lack of coordination between the federal and provincial governments has also caused the delay in project development.

They say their repeated requests to the authorities at both federal and provincial levels to expedite the project have gone unheard. They even drew the attention of the President, Vice President, prime minister and chief minister to the problem, but to no avail.

The concerned industrialists say that the federal government announced the plan, but it didn’t deem it necessary to coordinate with the provincial government for its execution. The provincial government also didn’t take the initiative to see the project through.

The Karnali provincial government has instead proposed its own plan for an industrial area.

“We were working on our own plan for an industrial estate in Karnali province last year, so we could not coordinate on the federal government’s project,” says Sher Bahadur Shahi, information officer at the provincial Ministry of Industry, Tourism, Forest and Environment.

Dhanmaya Shahi of Surkhet lost her husband during the decade-long armed conflict.

Shahi, whose husband was killed by the then CPN-Maoist rebels, had filed a complaint at the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC) demanding action and justice for her husband’s killers.

Earlier, she had even submitted several petitions to the local peace committee and the administration. When, five years ago, she petitioned the TRC, she had hoped that action would finally be taken against her husband’s killers. That hope is now fading. “By delaying justice, the state has sprinkled salt on my wounds,” she rues.

This is the story of many Dhanmayas across the Karnali region who are yet to get any relief or justice from the state. Complaints lodged by victims seeking justice are rather being stowed away at the TRC headquarters in Kathmandu.

Another victim, Shanti Dhamala, who also lost her husband, says, “I have filed many petitions in the hope of getting justice. I have even gone to the International Court of Justice. To date, the commission has only exacerbated my wounds.”

According to official figures, the commission has received 11,000 complaints from Karnali, the region most affected by the conflict. But the commission is yet to investigate any of the complaints.

Kaviram Khadka of Mantada in Bheriganga Municipality, who was injured during the conflict, did not get timely treatment, and he to this day cannot move the lower half of his body. He was neither a Maoist nor a security guard. Khadka still had to suffer when he was shot, in two places, during the conflict.

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Janakali Malla of Birendranagar has not been able to see her daughter for well over a decade now. “Years have passed since my daughter went missing, but the government and the commission investigating the disappearance have done nothing,” she complains.

The pain of the victims’ relatives is no less. The TRC had set up offices in every province in order to facilitate preliminary investigation of complaints collected in respective provinces and to take the victims’ statements.

But lately, the offices of the commission have become inactive, which TRC Chairman Ganesh Datta Bhatt blames on lack of staff and resources. In Karnali, the commission had set up an office in Birendranagar, which is now closed.

The lack of functioning of the headquarters has also affected investigation of the complaints, delaying justice-delivery. Chairman Bhatt vows to resume operations soon. “We will open new offices too in order to speed up our work,” he says.

The TRC has promised to investigate and resolve all complaints within the next two years. According to the commission, 63,718 complaints have been registered from across the country. Bhatt says work was also affected due to the Covid-19 epidemic but now investigations are being sped up.