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If you grow houseplants, you probably know that sinking feeling you get when you notice the almost imperceivable movement of a dot, fine webbing between a leaf and its stem, or a leaf that just looks off.

You thought (hoped!) the moment would never come, but the pests have moved in, and here we are.

Check out the plant before buying it

The old adage about an ounce of prevention being worth a pound of cure also applies to houseplant infestations, and this all could have been avoided if you had taken precautions, starting at the nursery.

Before bringing home a plant, inspect it closely. Look at the soil, stem, leaves and, importantly, under the leaves, where some pests like to make their homes. Use your phone’s camera to zoom in on questionable specks. If all looks good, go ahead and buy the plant, but repot it once it crosses your threshold.

What to do when you bring the plant home

Remove the plant from its container and gently shake, then wipe as much of the soil from the roots as possible. This is important because even in the absence of visible pests, there could be eggs waiting to hatch in the soil.

Repot the plant using fresh, sterile potting mix in a clean container with a drainage hole at the bottom. If reusing the original pot, first wash it and disinfect it with a 90/10 water-to-bleach solution.

Plant the roots exactly as deep as they were in the original pot, and tamp the soil down firmly to eliminate air pockets. Then give the plant a moderate drink of water.

When the soil surface dries, sprinkle it with about ¼ inch of food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE). To ensure even distribution, consider using a powder duster, sometimes called a puffer.

Wear a mask; the dust isn’t toxic to people or pets, but it will irritate your lungs if inhaled. Insects that crawl across the dry powder, which is composed of tiny shard-like particles, become dehydrated and die.

Diatomaceous earth must be kept dry to maintain its effectiveness, so bottom-water plants by placing pots in a shallow container of water. Allow the soil and roots to soak up what they need for about 15 minutes, then discard any remaining water. Bottom watering also helps prevent fungal diseases and root rot, so it’s a good practice regardless of pest concerns.

DE should be reapplied occasionally because soil moisture will degrade it over time, even when watering from below.

Protect your other plants

If you have other houseplants, quarantine your newcomer in a separate room for three to four weeks. Inspect it every few days as you did at the nursery, as some pests may not show their faces for a while.

When you’re confident all is clear, go ahead and introduce your plants to the rest of the family.

If you grow houseplants, you probably know that sinking feeling you get when you notice the almost imperceivable movement of a dot, fine webbing between a leaf and its stem, or a leaf that just looks off.

You thought (hoped!) the moment would never come, but the pests have moved in, and here we are.

Check out the plant before buying it

The old adage about an ounce of prevention being worth a pound of cure also applies to houseplant infestations, and this all could have been avoided if you had taken precautions, starting at the nursery.

Before bringing home a plant, inspect it closely. Look at the soil, stem, leaves and, importantly, under the leaves, where some pests like to make their homes. Use your phone’s camera to zoom in on questionable specks. If all looks good, go ahead and buy the plant, but repot it once it crosses your threshold.

What to do when you bring the plant home

Remove the plant from its container and gently shake, then wipe as much of the soil from the roots as possible. This is important because even in the absence of visible pests, there could be eggs waiting to hatch in the soil.

Repot the plant using fresh, sterile potting mix in a clean container with a drainage hole at the bottom. If reusing the original pot, first wash it and disinfect it with a 90/10 water-to-bleach solution.

Plant the roots exactly as deep as they were in the original pot, and tamp the soil down firmly to eliminate air pockets. Then give the plant a moderate drink of water.

When the soil surface dries, sprinkle it with about ¼ inch of food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE). To ensure even distribution, consider using a powder duster, sometimes called a puffer.

Wear a mask; the dust isn’t toxic to people or pets, but it will irritate your lungs if inhaled. Insects that crawl across the dry powder, which is composed of tiny shard-like particles, become dehydrated and die.

Diatomaceous earth must be kept dry to maintain its effectiveness, so bottom-water plants by placing pots in a shallow container of water. Allow the soil and roots to soak up what they need for about 15 minutes, then discard any remaining water. Bottom watering also helps prevent fungal diseases and root rot, so it’s a good practice regardless of pest concerns.

DE should be reapplied occasionally because soil moisture will degrade it over time, even when watering from below.

Protect your other plants

If you have other houseplants, quarantine your newcomer in a separate room for three to four weeks. Inspect it every few days as you did at the nursery, as some pests may not show their faces for a while.

When you’re confident all is clear, go ahead and introduce your plants to the rest of the family.

People grow houseplants for all kinds of reasons. They provide a connection to nature and can make a room feel more inviting. They’re also pretty. And if pretty is what you’re after, I’ve got some lookers for you.

Some of the most striking houseplants are succulents with unusual leaves. Unlike blooms that fade, unique foliage can steal the show year-round.

All succulents should be planted in well-draining potting mix, ideally one formulated specifically for cactuses and succulents, in a container with a drainage hole at the bottom. Let their soil dry out before watering them again.

Krinkle Kurl

One of my favorites is Krinkle Kurl (Hoya carnosa). The vining plant has thick, waxy, tightly packed, cupped leaves.

Slow-growing, it needs at least four hours of direct sunlight daily, so place it near a south-facing window or under fluorescent lights. Apply an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength every two months during spring and summer.

In a few years, small pink flowers will appear during the warmer months, but those twisted, wavy leaves are the main attraction.

Burro’s tail

Another succulent, Burro’s tail (Sedum morganianum), gets its common name from its eye-catching long stems, which are surrounded by layered silvery-blue, teardrop-shaped leaves that resemble an artichoke’s.

Place the long-living plant near a bright, south-facing window. For maximum impact, hang it from the ceiling or place it on a tall stand to allow its pendulous stems, which can reach 4 feet, to trail. Fertilize just once each in spring and summer.

Sweetheart plant

If this were a contest, sweetheart plant (Hoya kerii) would take top prize in the Cutest category. At the garden center, you might find it as a single heart-shaped leaf rooted in a small container (typically sold as a gift plant for Valentine’s Day) or as a full vining plant with thick, heart-shaped leaves growing along each stem.

Either way, the plants require bright, indirect light, so place them directly in front of a north-facing window or off to the side of a south- or west-facing one.

Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, every two to four weeks during spring and summer.

String of Dolphins

String of Dolphins (Curio peregrinus) is named for the shape of its curved leaves, which resemble dolphins breaching out of the water, fins and all.

The easy-care plants will perform best in a south-facing window. Water them thoroughly when their soil becomes dry, roughly once a month during fall and winter, and every week or two during spring and summer. Feed once a year with a balanced, liquid fertilizer (diluted to half-strength) as plants resume active growth in spring.

Note: String of dolphins is considered toxic to dogs and cats.

String of pearls

String of pearls (Curio rowleyanus) sports “pearls” along its vines, which can reach 3 feet long. To be honest, they look more like peas to me, but “string of peas” wouldn’t likely pack the same marketing punch. Still, I find them irresistible.

A cousin to the string of dolphins, both plants were recently recategorized into the Curio genus from the Senecio, so some plant tags still might list their old names.

Another low-maintenance plant, its only requirements are bright, indirect light, water only when its soil becomes dry, and monthly applications of a balanced liquid fertilizer (at half strength) during spring and summer (none needed in fall or winter).

Note: String of pearls is considered toxic to dogs and cats.

I’ve been growing herbs in the garden long enough to know they don’t require much. Just water, sunlight and my best intentions. In the garden, herbs are forgiving plants. They aren’t fussy about soil pH, almost never need fertilizer, and can power through if you occasionally forget to water them.

But when the weather turns cold and their outdoor beds become inhospitable, I grow some of my culinary friends on a sunny kitchen windowsill, even as they become more needy.

I say “some” because herbs are tricky plants to grow indoors. Dill and fennel have large root systems, making them impractical contenders for indoor pots. Basil tends to grow straggly because it requires intense sunlight, which is just about impossible to achieve indoors. And the way lavender and chamomile spread makes them best left outdoors.

Rosemary, sage, oregano, thyme and bay laurel, however, will get by indoors if cared for properly. Parsley may grow well, too, but only if planted in a deep pot, provided with supplemental artificial lighting and fertilized regularly. Cilantro is hit or miss, but there’s no harm in giving it a try.

Potted herbs are susceptible to root rot, so it’s important that containers have drainage holes at their bottoms and that you fill them with a well-draining potting mix.

Place plants near the brightest light source available. In the home, that typically means near a south-facing window; west-facing is second-best.

Providing artificial lighting for 14-16 hours a day would be even better: Set fluorescent lights 5-10 inches above the tops of plants, or LED lights 15-20 inches above them, adjusting their heights as plants grow. If using grow lights, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength every two weeks.

Monitor moisture levels closely. Underwatering is preferable to overwatering, so if you’re not sure if your plants need a drink, plunge your finger into the soil up to your second knuckle and feel around for moisture. Water only when the soil starts to feel dry near the roots, but don’t let the soil remain dry for long.

Place containers in the sink and let a very slow stream of cool water from the faucet moisten the soil until it runs out of the pot’s drainage hole. Let the water absorb for a few minutes, then assess the soil, which should be moist but not soggy. Then return the plant to its sunny perch until the soil dries again.

Growing fresh herbs in the kitchen over winter is a cook’s dream. The plants may struggle, and they’ll likely grow slower and smaller, but it’s worth the effort to be able to pluck fragrant leaves that taste like summer at a moment’s notice. It’ll even save you a few bucks – and a trip to the market